ABOUT THIS EPISODE
If you'd told Gabe and Asher on August 7th — the day the U.S. announced a 39% tariff on Switzerland — that the holding companies would close out 2025 with their watch businesses up, they wouldn't have believed it. But that's what happened. Richemont's watch division grew 7% year over year. Swatch Group posted 7.2%. LVMH's watches and jewelry held flat while fashion softened around it. The top line says remarkable resilience. The bottom line tells a more complicated story.
Profits are largely flat. Currency and tariff drag is real. And the recovery is being driven by a strategic shift toward what Richemont and LVMH call "permanent luxury" — fewer watches, made at the higher end, with more specialized supply chains. That shift is a tale of two cities for suppliers: brutal under $10K, a quiet boon at the high end. Gabe and Asher dig into what it means for independents, why the Sellita movement Asher saw in Geneva shows how the market adapts, and whether the grand reorganization of the industry is creating a system that's harder for new brands to break into.
The episode closes on Swatch Group, where ISS has backed activist Steven Wood for a board seat. Asher takes the hypothetical seat and lays out what he'd change: less obsession with covering price points, more focus on creative point of view, and real activation of the R&D and supplier capabilities Swatch already owns.
Openwork is a weekly podcast about how the watch industry actually works. An unfiltered look behind the scenes — no press releases, no hype, and no sponsored takes. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology. Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube Music, or wherever you get your podcasts.
You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.
SHOW NOTES 🔗
TRANSCRIPT 🔗
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If you told me on that day that we would be looking at these kinds of results for
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the last quarter of the year, I wouldn't believe it. It's absolutely remarkable.
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This is Openwork, a look inside the watch industry. A podcast from Collective
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Horology. I'm Gabe Reilly, co-founder of Collective. And I'm Ash Arapian, co-founder
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of Collective. Collective Horology is an independent watch retailer based in
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Southern California. We carry a wide range of independent brands, including
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Arcanon, Czapek, Toledano, and Chan, and more. To learn more about us and check
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out our available inventory, visit collectivehorology.com. We don't
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get to announce new brands all that often. As listeners of the show know, we
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are very particular about who we work with because we want to make sure that
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we give everybody as much attention as we can and focus on bringing in the
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watches that we really admire. And both Gabe and I have had our eye on Toledano
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and Chan's watches for some time now. And when we finally were able to seal the
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deal in Geneva during Watches and Wonders and got a full look at the, not
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only what the vision for the brand is moving forward, but what they've
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accomplished to date, I think it was a bit of a no-brainer for us to be able to
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move forward. They're two wonderful guys making exceptionally unusual
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watches. And I am incredibly happy to say that as of this recording, we have a
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handful of the most recent release from Toledano and Chan in stock and ready for
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delivery. And moving forward, of course, as new watches are released, you will be
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able to find them at collectivehorology.com.
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Yeah, we had a fortuitous meeting with them at the Grand Duke Pub.
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We do a lot of business at the Grand Duke Pub.
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We do a lot of business at the Grand Duke Pub. We probably owe them a
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commission or something like that. But yeah, if you're meeting with a watch
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brand at the Grand Duke Pub, it's probably a good sign. I mean, that goes
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back to, man, our second collaboration with Zenith. We met with Roman Marietta,
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Grand Duke Pub, finalized that one. Saw some renderings, prototype dials, things
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like that. That was fortuitous. Holth & Ricks, that all went down at the Grand
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Duke Pub, Toledano and Chan. Yeah. So I was really blown away, not just by the
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watches. The watches are cool. And this is a brand that makes watches just speak
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for themselves. There's not much we have to say there, but both of the guys are
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lovely, Phil and Alfred. And what was Phil wearing? Was he wearing anything?
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Yeah, exactly. I believe he was wearing a denim jumpsuit.
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Oh, yeah, he was wearing a denim jumpsuit.
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Which is not a thing you get.
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What watch was he wearing?
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He was wearing some kind of geezer watch, of course. But what struck me the
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most is, just like Holth & Ricks, actually, what a clear, creative vision
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they have and how much runway it has. We saw some of their future collection,
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both in a format similar to what you've seen from the brand already, but also
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some new thoughts on approaches to case design, dial design, things like that.
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Crystal design.
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Crystal, yeah. We wax poetic all the time about watch brands and case design
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and movements and finishing and architecture. This is the brand where
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we'll wax poetic about sapphire crystal design.
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And packaging.
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The sapphire crystal changes the character of the watch as you look at it
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on your wrist and experience it and tell time. It's really cool. And yeah,
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their packaging is just awesome. One of the few brands that has packaging
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that's like, yes, OK, this is cool packaging. This has a reason for being.
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Gaga Laboratorio, another brand that does awesome packaging and likewise has
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a clear, creative vision and marches to the beat of their own drummer.
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So it was a no brainer. Toledano and Chan now at Collective.
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Welcome, guys. But we're not here to talk about the independents.
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We're here to talk about the big behemoth holding companies.
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And well, on this episode, on this episode.
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Yes, exactly. This episode is brought to you by the big behemoth holding companies.
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Slow may they turn. Slow may they turn.
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Yeah. So what's interesting is we now have a picture of where LVMH,
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Richemont and the Swatch Group ended last year, calendar year 2025.
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These holding companies, Richemont in particular, have their own financial year
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calendar that doesn't quite align with with the calendar year.
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So what we're doing now that we have the data has come in
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and the reporting has come in from the holding companies is we're looking
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at the period of October through December of 2025
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and how these holding companies perform, not for the sake of doing it,
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but because there's actually a lot of interesting data and insight
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in what we're seeing.
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I think in broad strokes, what we're seeing is a turnaround.
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We'll talk about the numbers and what that means.
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But underneath the surface of that turnaround,
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there are bigger macro forces at play that are driving that turnaround.
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And also, importantly, management decisions or lack of management decisions
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in some cases that are also affecting these companies
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and how they're adjusting to how they're adjusting to the current market realities
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and adjusting their their businesses, which I found really interesting.
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We talked about how Breitling is taking a very unique approach
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to the market in our last episode.
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I think what we're seeing from these brands is signs of recovery,
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but also clear signal on how they're operating in a really challenging market.
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I think it's also important to look at why this matters.
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I mean, look, we we are independent watch retailers,
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and this is a podcast about the business of watches.
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And sometimes I think, you know, we do talk about the holding companies
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probably more than you and I do just in our normal course of business.
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Yeah, because that's what we have the data on.
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It's harder to research some of the smaller players.
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I think there's sort of two things about that and why this this matters in that sense.
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One is that the availability of data and their bellwethers.
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Yeah, well, so their bellwethers for a few reasons, and we'll get into this.
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But one of them is that because these big holding companies
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are such voracious consumers of raw material and components
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and essentially are the large scale patrons of the supply chain,
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you cannot remove them from the conversation about the industry,
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especially independents, because a lot of the folks that operate
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in the long tail of the supply chain survive off of the revenue
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that they get from these holding companies so that they are also able to support independents.
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So when we look at this, we get a few points.
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One is that we get a bellwether of the industry,
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which helps us understand the health of that industry.
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And then the other thing that we get to see here is the success of these brands
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and these businesses ultimately can help us understand
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where the supply chain is going to be and how that will impact independents.
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So as we talk through all of this, good to have some context on this,
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because I can understand if you're an independent watch collector,
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you could sit there and be like, why do I care what's happening at Richemont or LVMH?
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Well, for these reasons, and I'm not saying you need to go out
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and do some like corporate, you know, like charity and be like,
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oh, you know, let me give you some money, Paul Louis Vuitton.
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Not suggesting that. No, no, no.
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But but important for us to understand in the same way that this is true
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about publishing or independent media or like, you know, indie menswear or whatever.
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Everything is interconnected.
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And we have to look at these things at a macro level.
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Yeah, exactly. These are the brands that stirred the drink,
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not just in terms of their overall revenue and market share and watch sales,
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but in the industry at large.
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Yeah, they're the biggest player when it comes to the production of Swiss
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watches and Swiss watch components and the supply chain in Switzerland and beyond.
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And so that's why this matters. Great point.
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So I don't want to get too much bogged down into the details.
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I'll put all the numbers for what the financial and the
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we got to get green visors for these.
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Oh, yeah. I should bring my calculator.
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You know, Asher knows my calculator.
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I stole this calculator from from my first job in advertising
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at YNR San Francisco in 2005.
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And this calculator had clearly been in the in the agency office since the 1980s.
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It's this giant Casio solar powered calculator.
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It looks like the kind of thing like you'd open up like a banker's drawer
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in the 1980s and you'd find it in there.
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Well, I still have the calculator to this day,
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so I should bring that in a green visor on here and we can crunch it.
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Our accountant has it even cooler set up.
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He's got the the, you know, the receipt. Oh, yeah.
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So and I didn't it didn't occur to me why you would want receipt
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paper on your calculator until recently, which is like, oh,
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you can see the numbers you just entered.
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So if you're like, oh, wait,
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did I just divide this or multiply it or write the right number? Wrong number.
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Why isn't this adding up?
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You go back and look at the paper.
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It's a great product development from the good folks at Casio.
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Yeah. All right.
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In any event, I don't want to get too much into into these numbers
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because it might be a little bit boring to go through it all.
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But let's look at the trends.
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I think suffice it to say, we'll put the details
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in in the blog post at collective horology dot com slash blog.
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But I think what we're seeing from Richmond, LVMH and swatch
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was in the end of the year.
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So this is October through December. Yeah.
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They're all telling us in one way or another, their watch
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businesses are stabilizing or improving.
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And this is both in terms of this is primarily in terms of revenue.
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So let's start with Richmond.
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So for Richmond, for the end of the year, for the final
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of those final few months, the year, what they're telling us is their watch business.
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And we've talked a lot on this podcast about how their watch business
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has really been a problem for them and a weight on the business.
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Jewelry has been driving the business.
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It continues to.
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But watches were actually up seven percent year over year
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for that final quarter of the of the calendar.
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That's meaningful.
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So that that's meaningful.
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Jewelry was up 14 percent.
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So jewelry remains the behemoth and the most important.
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And these are drivers numbers, right?
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Yeah, this is gross revenue.
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I did look at profitability for all three, which we'll talk about in a second.
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But suffice it to say, they're doing more business.
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They're doing more top line business at Richmond in watches.
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Yep. Great. Up year over year. Nice.
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LVMH, they actually lump watches and jewelry together.
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They're far more diversified holding company.
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But what they're telling us is the watch and jewelry business held up
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and is essentially flat year over year.
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They don't get into the the numbers in particular.
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They have said, however, that more broadly speaking in their portfolio,
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fashion is soft.
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So they're into the fashion.
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They have many maisons that play in fashion on a level
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that these other holding companies don't.
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And that's really accounting for the softness in their in their business.
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Overall, the business was up one percent in revenue.
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That's interesting.
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You're a decline in couture, but but some degree of stability.
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Yeah, they're saying watches and jewelry performed held up better than than fashion.
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And they point in particular to Tiffany and Bvlgari as the stars,
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the star players within the watches and jewelry division.
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Now, of course, both Tiffany and Bvlgari are in watches.
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Tiffany, not so much Bvlgari more so.
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But jewelry is really the driver there, as it is with.
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I mean, they don't break it out, of course.
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Hard to know how much one or the other is booing, you know, that number.
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But if they lump them together and they consider it one P&L
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essentially at the highest level, then maybe it maybe doesn't matter.
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And look, they're transparent enough to say, like, you know,
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fashion's not going so well for us.
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If watches was really down significantly, I'm sure they would point.
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It would stand to reason that maybe they'd point to that.
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They're pointing to fashion.
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Fair enough. Swatch Group, they claim that for the final quarter of the year,
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they were up 7.2% year over year.
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So that's consistent with what we're seeing
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from the watchmaking division of Richemont.
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And we've talked a great deal about Swatch.
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We'll chat a little bit more about some of the palace intrigue,
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the board drama that's happening there.
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There's news there, but they're they're up as well.
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Now, of course, Swatch is pure play watches, just like the watchmaking
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division of Richemont.
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So what we're seeing is top line revenue.
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There's growth.
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And Swatch is telling us that it's across the board.
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So Swatch is obviously diversified within watches across the low,
219
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mid and high end, whereas Richemont is focusing more and more on on the high end.
220
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I feel like shaking your head.
221
00:12:30,479 --> 00:12:34,400
Well, because I just wonder how much of that, since these are gross numbers,
222
00:12:34,799 --> 00:12:37,960
are tied to some of the pretty significant price increases
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that we saw at the Swatch Group.
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00:12:40,640 --> 00:12:43,440
I don't know enough about I haven't paid enough attention
225
00:12:43,440 --> 00:12:49,359
to Richemont's price increases, as I have to say, Rolex and and Omega Omega.
226
00:12:49,400 --> 00:12:53,200
Yeah, we certainly have seen Omega and Blancpain, for sure,
227
00:12:53,200 --> 00:12:55,640
raising their prices quite, quite significantly
228
00:12:56,000 --> 00:12:58,200
over the course of the last 12 to 18 months.
229
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Tariffs and currency obviously being a factor in this.
230
00:13:02,200 --> 00:13:06,840
So I am kind of curious to see how those gross numbers
231
00:13:07,039 --> 00:13:09,559
play out against actual revenue.
232
00:13:10,039 --> 00:13:14,520
And also, you know, we've seen a lot of these sort of like,
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you know, hold and release moments over the last 18 months,
234
00:13:17,760 --> 00:13:21,799
especially with tariffs, where when, you know, when when the tariffs become chaotic,
235
00:13:22,239 --> 00:13:26,359
we see pullback when the chaos goes away or we have a taco moment.
236
00:13:26,559 --> 00:13:29,919
Then we tend to see sales, you know, flood.
237
00:13:30,400 --> 00:13:32,799
So it has been talk about the export data.
238
00:13:32,799 --> 00:13:37,000
And we saw a huge surge in exports from Switzerland to in general,
239
00:13:37,000 --> 00:13:39,400
but to the US specifically in December. Right.
240
00:13:39,400 --> 00:13:42,000
So that could be that could certainly be part of it.
241
00:13:42,000 --> 00:13:47,640
But keep in mind, many of these companies are exporting to themselves. Right.
242
00:13:47,640 --> 00:13:51,719
So that's a little bit different from like they make a sale into a retailer
243
00:13:52,039 --> 00:13:53,880
and then ship it the way independents do.
244
00:13:53,880 --> 00:13:55,359
So harder, harder to say.
245
00:13:55,359 --> 00:13:58,320
But, yeah, certainly there was more activity in terms of export.
246
00:13:58,479 --> 00:14:00,840
I guess my point is, when we look at some of these numbers,
247
00:14:00,840 --> 00:14:02,400
we could look at each other and say, oh, that looks OK.
248
00:14:02,400 --> 00:14:05,159
But I think there's probably a lot going on under the scenes
249
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that are behind the scenes there make these numbers.
250
00:14:07,840 --> 00:14:09,039
You think I just left it there?
251
00:14:09,039 --> 00:14:10,400
No, man, I dug deeper.
252
00:14:10,400 --> 00:14:11,359
Well, I'm setting you up.
253
00:14:11,359 --> 00:14:12,599
So a couple a couple of things.
254
00:14:12,599 --> 00:14:15,320
First thing I looked at was profitability.
255
00:14:15,320 --> 00:14:17,479
Like, it's great that sales are up.
256
00:14:17,679 --> 00:14:19,640
And so sales could just be up.
257
00:14:19,640 --> 00:14:24,760
Revenue is up. Sales, revenue, sales, receipts.
258
00:14:25,640 --> 00:14:27,760
So sales are up. That's great.
259
00:14:27,760 --> 00:14:29,000
What's what's going on here?
260
00:14:29,000 --> 00:14:30,760
What's the story with profitability?
261
00:14:30,760 --> 00:14:34,840
And in all cases, profitability is generally about flat
262
00:14:35,840 --> 00:14:36,919
year over year for this.
263
00:14:36,919 --> 00:14:38,080
So this is my point.
264
00:14:38,080 --> 00:14:43,359
So what? Well, no, this isn't your point, because look, if if you're saying like,
265
00:14:43,359 --> 00:14:45,880
look, let's attribute this to price increases, you know,
266
00:14:45,880 --> 00:14:48,400
maybe they're doing more sales because they've increased their prices.
267
00:14:49,080 --> 00:14:52,159
The challenge there would be like, well, if that was true,
268
00:14:52,159 --> 00:14:53,719
they're just increasing prices.
269
00:14:53,719 --> 00:14:54,840
Their margins would expand.
270
00:14:54,840 --> 00:14:56,559
Their profitability would expand.
271
00:14:56,559 --> 00:14:57,760
Well, that's not what I'm saying.
272
00:14:57,760 --> 00:15:00,559
What I'm saying is that the reason prices are increasing
273
00:15:00,559 --> 00:15:03,280
are because of a drag from currency and from margin.
274
00:15:03,280 --> 00:15:04,880
And from even though the right.
275
00:15:04,880 --> 00:15:10,280
So even though the the overall like like the the absolute number is bigger,
276
00:15:10,799 --> 00:15:13,640
it doesn't necessarily mean that that the margins are.
277
00:15:13,640 --> 00:15:15,679
No. And the margins really haven't improved.
278
00:15:15,679 --> 00:15:18,080
So we know there's currency pressure here.
279
00:15:18,359 --> 00:15:22,080
The reporting is base is adjusted for constant currency.
280
00:15:22,239 --> 00:15:23,679
OK, but. All right.
281
00:15:23,679 --> 00:15:26,479
But, you know, like there is currency pressure is real.
282
00:15:26,479 --> 00:15:27,520
It softens demand.
283
00:15:27,520 --> 00:15:30,880
It weakens demand and it may shift demand from a lower price segment
284
00:15:30,880 --> 00:15:33,080
to a higher price segment that's less price sensitive.
285
00:15:33,080 --> 00:15:35,520
Yeah. The other thing is tariffs, of course.
286
00:15:35,520 --> 00:15:40,400
And again, if these holding companies are self importing, which they do,
287
00:15:40,599 --> 00:15:43,200
they're absorbing a lot of tariff related costs.
288
00:15:43,200 --> 00:15:44,559
And that erodes that.
289
00:15:44,559 --> 00:15:47,760
Yeah. And there's another interesting thing with tariffs going on right now,
290
00:15:47,760 --> 00:15:50,200
which is that the Court of International Trade here in the United States
291
00:15:50,200 --> 00:15:52,799
has essentially mandated one of your favorite courts
292
00:15:53,840 --> 00:15:58,799
as these days has has mandated the refund of tariffs,
293
00:15:59,080 --> 00:16:02,280
which is a monumentally massive amount of money.
294
00:16:02,520 --> 00:16:05,359
And it will be interesting to see how some of these companies metabolize
295
00:16:05,359 --> 00:16:08,400
that money when it does eventually come back to them and how they categorize it,
296
00:16:08,640 --> 00:16:12,799
because that was OPEX and or revenue that they had access to previously
297
00:16:12,799 --> 00:16:15,840
that was taken from them illegally by the United States government
298
00:16:16,080 --> 00:16:19,799
and now is being returned to them with interest or presumably at some point
299
00:16:20,000 --> 00:16:21,400
returned to them with interest.
300
00:16:21,400 --> 00:16:23,400
And that money is going to go somewhere on the books.
301
00:16:23,919 --> 00:16:28,039
So it'll be interesting to see how how that that cash will be
302
00:16:28,039 --> 00:16:29,640
will be will be notated.
303
00:16:29,640 --> 00:16:33,719
I don't know that we'll see a huge turnaround in the in the financial
304
00:16:33,719 --> 00:16:36,919
performance of these businesses because of it, or at least in the trading
305
00:16:36,919 --> 00:16:40,359
of their their stocks on the open market, because all of this is baked in.
306
00:16:40,359 --> 00:16:45,440
But I'm sure that day to day basis will help their bookkeeping for the year.
307
00:16:45,440 --> 00:16:47,440
It will certainly pad their margins for.
308
00:16:47,440 --> 00:16:50,039
Oh, I know. I know that a return of our tariffs
309
00:16:50,039 --> 00:16:52,640
would make a material difference to us from an OPEX standpoint.
310
00:16:52,760 --> 00:16:54,239
It certainly it certainly would.
311
00:16:54,239 --> 00:16:57,200
So the, you know, revenue is up.
312
00:16:57,200 --> 00:16:58,200
Sales are up.
313
00:16:58,200 --> 00:17:02,679
But profit is generally for these guys about flat or where it had been before.
314
00:17:02,919 --> 00:17:07,640
And that's just because of all the pressures that they experienced in in twenty
315
00:17:07,640 --> 00:17:11,400
twenty five. And, you know, the cynical thing to say when prices go up
316
00:17:12,199 --> 00:17:16,520
or when, you know, the cost of tariffs get passed on to consumers
317
00:17:16,520 --> 00:17:20,880
to some extent is just to, you know, blame these companies for being greedy.
318
00:17:20,880 --> 00:17:24,400
And I think what we've seen is even if prices are increasing,
319
00:17:24,400 --> 00:17:26,959
even if the top line figure for sales are increasing,
320
00:17:27,319 --> 00:17:30,680
these companies still aren't materially making much more money.
321
00:17:30,680 --> 00:17:34,319
If if any more money at all, they're just treading water,
322
00:17:34,640 --> 00:17:38,000
at least when it comes to their at least when it comes to their watch businesses.
323
00:17:38,400 --> 00:17:40,479
Inflation is it? Inflation is a drag, man.
324
00:17:40,479 --> 00:17:42,319
Inflation is a drag. Tariffs are a drag.
325
00:17:42,319 --> 00:17:44,239
It's not fun for for anyone.
326
00:17:44,239 --> 00:17:46,760
And certainly when it came to that stuff, I don't think, you know,
327
00:17:46,760 --> 00:17:49,280
we can be cynical about these companies and how they operate.
328
00:17:49,280 --> 00:17:53,319
But when it comes to price increases and things like that in twenty twenty five,
329
00:17:53,319 --> 00:17:57,199
I think we need to give them some degree of benefit of the doubt here.
330
00:17:57,439 --> 00:18:00,160
Now, the other the other drivers of all this.
331
00:18:00,160 --> 00:18:02,880
So when we looked at, OK, well, why exactly is revenue up?
332
00:18:02,880 --> 00:18:04,400
What is driving it?
333
00:18:04,400 --> 00:18:07,199
We looked at the statements that these companies made in
334
00:18:07,199 --> 00:18:10,239
in their most recent financial reports, the financial reporting
335
00:18:10,239 --> 00:18:14,880
for this period of time, and they told us a few things.
336
00:18:15,359 --> 00:18:18,359
So first is China and travel.
337
00:18:18,359 --> 00:18:20,400
Good old travel retail.
338
00:18:20,439 --> 00:18:24,199
China, we've talked a great deal about the struggles
339
00:18:24,199 --> 00:18:27,520
that the holding companies and the watch industry has had in China
340
00:18:27,520 --> 00:18:30,760
in the last two years and how there's been nowhere to hide recently
341
00:18:30,760 --> 00:18:34,599
because of, of course, all the tariffs and trade issues in the United States,
342
00:18:34,800 --> 00:18:37,800
Europe being really soft and China pulling back massively.
343
00:18:38,119 --> 00:18:41,520
So what we're hearing now from these companies is that China,
344
00:18:41,520 --> 00:18:45,959
in most cases, is either now neutral, so it's no longer retreating
345
00:18:46,160 --> 00:18:49,199
or declining to positive, to mildly positive.
346
00:18:49,199 --> 00:18:52,319
So China seems to at least have stabilized or for some brands
347
00:18:52,319 --> 00:18:55,400
and companies in particular, it's doing a bit better.
348
00:18:55,400 --> 00:18:56,800
So that's helping.
349
00:18:56,800 --> 00:18:59,400
That's helping them travel retail as well.
350
00:18:59,400 --> 00:19:01,719
So this isn't just buying watches on cruise ships.
351
00:19:01,959 --> 00:19:05,239
This could be buying watches and, you know, major reports of call
352
00:19:05,239 --> 00:19:09,319
around the world. Hong Kong is a famous travel retail market.
353
00:19:09,319 --> 00:19:13,520
A lot of folks I remember flying out of Hong Kong years ago
354
00:19:13,520 --> 00:19:17,400
and just the number of people getting on the plane and stuffing
355
00:19:17,800 --> 00:19:21,400
the overhead bins with like luxury shopping bags.
356
00:19:21,400 --> 00:19:25,000
Yeah. Like major travel retail destination.
357
00:19:25,319 --> 00:19:29,160
So Hong Kong would would probably be part of that greater China market.
358
00:19:29,160 --> 00:19:33,000
Certainly it's part of China distinct in in some ways
359
00:19:33,959 --> 00:19:37,000
that travel retail picture is improving as well.
360
00:19:37,000 --> 00:19:41,239
So that's good news for the industry at large, especially given all
361
00:19:41,239 --> 00:19:43,520
all of the challenges they went through last year.
362
00:19:43,520 --> 00:19:48,839
And then another one is channel and product mix cleanup.
363
00:19:49,199 --> 00:19:51,680
And this probably impacts more of the bottom line.
364
00:19:51,680 --> 00:19:55,359
But to some extent, it does impact the top line as well.
365
00:19:55,400 --> 00:19:57,400
So cleaner inventory.
366
00:19:57,400 --> 00:20:02,839
So this means less, basically less overproduction of watches.
367
00:20:02,839 --> 00:20:04,160
This helps the bottom line.
368
00:20:04,160 --> 00:20:05,959
This helps financial health.
369
00:20:05,959 --> 00:20:09,920
It also helps the demand of new watches sold through primary channels,
370
00:20:09,920 --> 00:20:12,359
whether that's dealers, the other pieces.
371
00:20:13,359 --> 00:20:15,520
Increasingly or continued shift
372
00:20:15,520 --> 00:20:20,520
to their own company owned and operated retail that helps preserve pricing.
373
00:20:20,719 --> 00:20:23,560
We've talked in the past when a company like
374
00:20:24,359 --> 00:20:28,680
let's take a brand like Omega when they sell a watch through their own boutique.
375
00:20:29,239 --> 00:20:33,400
They realize the full retail revenue on that versus when they wholesale it.
376
00:20:33,599 --> 00:20:36,280
They they realize just the wholesale revenue.
377
00:20:36,280 --> 00:20:38,160
So it helps the top line number as well.
378
00:20:38,160 --> 00:20:41,760
So as companies shift to company owned and operated retail,
379
00:20:41,920 --> 00:20:47,680
they're capturing more retail dollars and that helps their top line revenue as well.
380
00:20:48,000 --> 00:20:51,439
The other thing in terms of of product mix and mix,
381
00:20:51,439 --> 00:20:56,000
whether it's channel mix or product mix that is happening is in the case of LVMH
382
00:20:56,000 --> 00:20:59,439
and Richemont, they are shifting their product mix
383
00:20:59,680 --> 00:21:02,680
to what they call like permanent luxury.
384
00:21:02,920 --> 00:21:05,719
So these are essentially more high end products.
385
00:21:05,760 --> 00:21:09,920
So these these permanent luxury items within watches would include
386
00:21:10,119 --> 00:21:13,839
not just like high price watches, but things like jewelry, watches
387
00:21:13,839 --> 00:21:17,800
and what are described as iconic time to heirloom kind of stuff.
388
00:21:17,839 --> 00:21:18,719
Heirloom kind of stuff.
389
00:21:18,719 --> 00:21:23,160
But, you know, that could be like the most desirable pieces in their collection
390
00:21:23,160 --> 00:21:25,719
versus, you know, just trying to probably like the Reggia
391
00:21:25,719 --> 00:21:29,040
Persepe collabs or the the Debutoon collabs, things like that.
392
00:21:29,040 --> 00:21:33,199
It could even be like in the case of let's take, I don't know,
393
00:21:34,079 --> 00:21:37,599
Cartier, you know, focusing on certain tank lines that.
394
00:21:37,839 --> 00:21:38,359
Oh, forgive me.
395
00:21:38,359 --> 00:21:40,400
I was thinking LVMH brands, excuse me.
396
00:21:40,719 --> 00:21:43,640
Yeah, I mean, LVMH is part of this as well.
397
00:21:43,640 --> 00:21:46,319
So they're shifting to these more permanent items.
398
00:21:46,319 --> 00:21:50,439
Well, in the case of Swatch again, they're claiming it's broad based
399
00:21:50,439 --> 00:21:53,239
and across the board and they're seeing demand across the board.
400
00:21:53,560 --> 00:21:57,640
I think that's because they do have some brands that do particularly well
401
00:21:57,640 --> 00:22:02,479
right now at the lower end, Tissot and the PRX in particular as a poster child
402
00:22:02,479 --> 00:22:06,599
for that. I don't know the state of the Swatch brand business,
403
00:22:06,959 --> 00:22:11,880
but I would guess thanks to things like the Moon Swatch and collaborations
404
00:22:11,880 --> 00:22:16,079
and things like that, they're maybe doing OK or better than usual.
405
00:22:16,079 --> 00:22:19,599
I guess the main takeaway that I I'm because I'm listening to all of this
406
00:22:19,599 --> 00:22:22,880
and I'm trying to just summarize in my head where we're landing.
407
00:22:23,880 --> 00:22:28,160
In the third quarter last year, Switzerland was in a bad way.
408
00:22:28,520 --> 00:22:31,719
They were under the they were they were being under heavy pressure
409
00:22:31,719 --> 00:22:33,880
from an illegal American tariff.
410
00:22:33,880 --> 00:22:37,439
Yeah. So the thirty nine percent tariff that was in effect
411
00:22:37,439 --> 00:22:41,520
essentially August through the beginning of December, essentially.
412
00:22:41,880 --> 00:22:46,160
So so basically for, you know, third quarter into fourth quarter, it was
413
00:22:46,599 --> 00:22:50,560
it was poor and a poor economic reality that was an invented scenario
414
00:22:50,560 --> 00:22:53,319
by the U.S. government
415
00:22:53,319 --> 00:22:56,119
that created cascading issues throughout the Swiss economy
416
00:22:56,520 --> 00:23:00,319
and through Europe really writ large, even though Europe was operating
417
00:23:00,319 --> 00:23:02,319
at a lower net tariff.
418
00:23:03,040 --> 00:23:08,160
We were seeing things like job eliminations, severe cutback in budgets.
419
00:23:08,479 --> 00:23:10,599
I mean, it was some serious stuff going on there.
420
00:23:10,599 --> 00:23:14,599
And the second and third order consequences of that are still in effect.
421
00:23:14,599 --> 00:23:18,560
I mean, it didn't just go away because the tariffs were negotiated lower
422
00:23:18,560 --> 00:23:20,839
and then ultimately found to be illegal.
423
00:23:21,760 --> 00:23:25,119
So what I'm really taking away from all of this as I look at it is
424
00:23:25,760 --> 00:23:28,880
we had an industry that was pretty heavily battered
425
00:23:29,439 --> 00:23:33,199
for the last 12 months, for sure, 18 months to a degree,
426
00:23:33,839 --> 00:23:36,479
and it's still somewhat resilient.
427
00:23:36,479 --> 00:23:39,160
I'd say remarkably resilient, given the context.
428
00:23:39,160 --> 00:23:44,640
Exactly. So on the one hand, you know, there's the economic
429
00:23:44,640 --> 00:23:47,520
there was the economic brutality that this this industry and this
430
00:23:47,520 --> 00:23:49,719
this nation was subjected to.
431
00:23:50,160 --> 00:23:54,479
And by this nation, I mean Switzerland, but also, frankly, America.
432
00:23:55,479 --> 00:24:00,920
And then there is the impressive nature of the resiliency
433
00:24:00,920 --> 00:24:04,520
and the bounce back of both the global consumer to a degree
434
00:24:04,800 --> 00:24:06,800
and also these businesses.
435
00:24:06,800 --> 00:24:09,760
The question for me then says, all right, well,
436
00:24:10,599 --> 00:24:13,119
you know, again, these things don't happen in a vacuum.
437
00:24:13,680 --> 00:24:17,199
So the pullback and some of the cost cutting
438
00:24:17,560 --> 00:24:22,680
that's going to start hitting on product that is coming in 2026 and 2027,
439
00:24:23,000 --> 00:24:28,119
because if you have to start cutting costs with suppliers or lowering production
440
00:24:28,119 --> 00:24:31,199
or you had to eliminate some jobs or things like that.
441
00:24:31,239 --> 00:24:31,959
Oh, yeah.
442
00:24:31,959 --> 00:24:36,920
The last quarter of the year, they're assembling watches from orders
443
00:24:37,400 --> 00:24:41,239
that placed with and were delivered by suppliers months prior. Correct.
444
00:24:41,280 --> 00:24:44,040
Yeah. So now we're going to start seeing the impact kind of like,
445
00:24:44,199 --> 00:24:46,880
you know, it's not it's certainly not a one to one analogy,
446
00:24:47,040 --> 00:24:49,640
but certainly to a degree what we're seeing in terms of, you know,
447
00:24:49,640 --> 00:24:52,959
oil shocks and energy shocks based on, you know, what's happening
448
00:24:52,959 --> 00:24:54,400
in the straight up or moves.
449
00:24:54,400 --> 00:24:59,599
So I think we are we're probably going to see some inventory constraints.
450
00:24:59,839 --> 00:25:04,119
We're going to see some pain and pressure on supply chain and suppliers.
451
00:25:04,520 --> 00:25:08,280
And then as the you know, the giant titanic, you know,
452
00:25:08,280 --> 00:25:12,439
wheezing beasts of these corporations start to return,
453
00:25:12,439 --> 00:25:16,359
you know, the ships towards, you know, reactivating partnerships,
454
00:25:16,359 --> 00:25:18,839
sending money to suppliers, that's going to happen.
455
00:25:18,839 --> 00:25:21,119
There's going to be a dip, I suspect.
456
00:25:21,119 --> 00:25:23,599
So I think part of what I want to see here is like, you know,
457
00:25:23,599 --> 00:25:25,160
first of all, like this is good.
458
00:25:25,160 --> 00:25:26,959
Like I don't want to see anybody's job get hurt.
459
00:25:26,959 --> 00:25:30,599
I don't want to see an industry suffer, let alone one that we're part of.
460
00:25:31,199 --> 00:25:34,319
But realistically, there's going to be a dip.
461
00:25:35,040 --> 00:25:36,040
I have to imagine.
462
00:25:36,040 --> 00:25:39,319
Well, first things first, if you told me when it was
463
00:25:39,839 --> 00:25:42,880
August 7th or something like that, when a day that would live in infamy,
464
00:25:42,920 --> 00:25:44,640
the day that I think that was it.
465
00:25:44,640 --> 00:25:48,359
And some like price seared into my mind the day that the U.S.
466
00:25:48,359 --> 00:25:52,079
government announced it would be a 39% tariff on Switzerland.
467
00:25:52,439 --> 00:25:58,040
If you told me on that day that we would be looking at these kinds of results
468
00:25:58,640 --> 00:26:01,880
for the last quarter of the year, I wouldn't believe it.
469
00:26:02,880 --> 00:26:06,040
Yeah, it's it's absolute, absolutely remarkable.
470
00:26:06,640 --> 00:26:10,239
On the other hand, the impact is real.
471
00:26:10,239 --> 00:26:13,839
So one of the things that I lost their job, they're getting it back right away.
472
00:26:13,880 --> 00:26:14,160
Yeah.
473
00:26:14,160 --> 00:26:17,959
One of the things I looked into is, well, how is this impacting
474
00:26:18,719 --> 00:26:21,400
the supply chain and suppliers in particular?
475
00:26:21,400 --> 00:26:25,719
You know, we were talking about Dubai Watch Week months ago.
476
00:26:25,719 --> 00:26:28,800
And and one of the panels that Dubai Watch Week
477
00:26:28,800 --> 00:26:33,319
and a number of brand CEOs at Dubai Watch Week were saying that their suppliers
478
00:26:33,319 --> 00:26:36,479
were under just tremendous pressure with orders canceled.
479
00:26:36,719 --> 00:26:39,920
We also talked about the fact that at the end of last year,
480
00:26:39,920 --> 00:26:43,920
I think it was 20% of the company's watch businesses in Switzerland
481
00:26:43,920 --> 00:26:46,839
were taking advantage of like a furlough program from the government
482
00:26:46,839 --> 00:26:50,160
or a part time working scheme from from the government.
483
00:26:50,160 --> 00:26:53,239
I mean, that's really high and unfortunate.
484
00:26:54,280 --> 00:26:58,400
We heard from a well-placed watch executive pretty recently
485
00:26:58,400 --> 00:27:02,160
that mainstream high end brand we both love and admire
486
00:27:02,160 --> 00:27:06,880
had basically stopped production and stopped their production lines.
487
00:27:07,160 --> 00:27:10,000
Not not entirely, but effectively, predominantly.
488
00:27:10,560 --> 00:27:14,359
So, you know, when I dug into this and I was like, well,
489
00:27:14,839 --> 00:27:19,319
if part of what I'm hearing here is that in some cases,
490
00:27:19,319 --> 00:27:22,479
at least in the case of Richemont and LVMH, we're telling us,
491
00:27:22,479 --> 00:27:24,079
you know, we're making fewer watches.
492
00:27:24,079 --> 00:27:26,920
We're focusing more on the high end and these permanent pieces.
493
00:27:27,359 --> 00:27:30,400
Well, that's fewer watches being made, fewer parts being ordered.
494
00:27:30,599 --> 00:27:33,400
The question I had was, well, how is this impacting suppliers?
495
00:27:34,040 --> 00:27:37,800
And I just expected it to be like a roundly disastrous
496
00:27:38,280 --> 00:27:40,599
kind of answer I would get on this.
497
00:27:40,599 --> 00:27:42,760
And it turns out it's actually a tale of two cities.
498
00:27:43,119 --> 00:27:48,520
So for suppliers who are supplying kind of the $10,000 and under segment,
499
00:27:48,520 --> 00:27:49,359
it's brutal.
500
00:27:49,359 --> 00:27:51,479
Their businesses are really, really hurting.
501
00:27:51,479 --> 00:27:53,280
Their orders are being cut.
502
00:27:53,280 --> 00:27:56,239
They're engaging in these part time work schemes.
503
00:27:57,119 --> 00:27:57,880
It's not pretty.
504
00:27:57,880 --> 00:27:59,719
You know, these are real, real people.
505
00:27:59,719 --> 00:28:03,359
When when the you know, the record stops.
506
00:28:04,319 --> 00:28:08,319
These are the people who get left holding holding the bag or without a chair.
507
00:28:08,839 --> 00:28:11,640
However, on the high end, it's having the opposite effect.
508
00:28:11,640 --> 00:28:16,119
So the shift to more jewelry pieces, the shift to more metier des arts,
509
00:28:16,119 --> 00:28:19,199
the shifts to more high craft pieces
510
00:28:19,800 --> 00:28:23,680
are requiring more of specialized suppliers.
511
00:28:23,680 --> 00:28:27,160
And it's actually creating a boon for specialized suppliers.
512
00:28:27,160 --> 00:28:29,680
So what's interesting in the last couple of years,
513
00:28:29,680 --> 00:28:31,640
what we've heard from the brands we work with,
514
00:28:31,640 --> 00:28:35,160
and we work with independent brands priced anywhere from,
515
00:28:35,359 --> 00:28:38,839
you know, $2,000 all the way up to $100,000.
516
00:28:38,839 --> 00:28:39,479
Yeah.
517
00:28:39,479 --> 00:28:41,800
What we've been hearing from them over the last few years
518
00:28:41,800 --> 00:28:45,959
as the covid bubble has unwound is that the bottlenecks
519
00:28:45,959 --> 00:28:48,199
they've had around supply have gotten a lot better.
520
00:28:48,599 --> 00:28:52,079
You know, what we would hear from them in the covid days was,
521
00:28:52,560 --> 00:28:56,040
oh, that watch that I promised you is going to be delayed another two months
522
00:28:56,040 --> 00:28:59,199
and another two months and another two months because I can't get dials
523
00:28:59,199 --> 00:29:04,079
or I can't get the person who does the, you know, the the code,
524
00:29:04,199 --> 00:29:06,560
you know, PVD coding of some component.
525
00:29:06,839 --> 00:29:08,560
They're backed up or whatever it is like.
526
00:29:08,560 --> 00:29:11,160
All it takes is one component for the whole thing to fall apart.
527
00:29:11,479 --> 00:29:14,439
This was a story we would hear over and over and over again.
528
00:29:14,640 --> 00:29:17,040
The last few years, it's gotten materially better.
529
00:29:17,040 --> 00:29:21,160
And in the last year in particular, my gosh, have the brands we carry
530
00:29:21,160 --> 00:29:23,280
never been better about hitting their deadlines?
531
00:29:23,280 --> 00:29:27,040
And it's so the pain that's inflicted
532
00:29:27,520 --> 00:29:32,439
by these major companies pulling back from the supply chain is real.
533
00:29:32,520 --> 00:29:36,359
It's helped the independents for some, in some instance, to get caught up
534
00:29:36,640 --> 00:29:40,199
on production, because what we hear from them is I'm the last in line
535
00:29:40,199 --> 00:29:44,959
because, you know, I use my word, my orders, 10,000.
536
00:29:45,160 --> 00:29:48,400
My handset supplier is the same supplier who supplies.
537
00:29:48,400 --> 00:29:53,000
I'm making it up, Breitling or whomever, like I'm the last in line here.
538
00:29:53,000 --> 00:29:55,599
And I have to hope they can squeeze me in between production.
539
00:29:55,760 --> 00:29:57,199
And the orders are only ramping up.
540
00:29:57,199 --> 00:29:58,719
Well, that went away.
541
00:29:58,719 --> 00:30:01,439
However, if what we're seeing now is a move in the industry
542
00:30:01,439 --> 00:30:07,040
towards higher end pieces that are putting more of a burden on smaller
543
00:30:07,319 --> 00:30:10,439
suppliers, more specialized suppliers, more high end suppliers,
544
00:30:10,439 --> 00:30:13,479
I wonder if the independents will end up in that crunch again.
545
00:30:13,479 --> 00:30:16,760
Well, yeah, it also opens up from an episode ago, you know, some of our
546
00:30:16,760 --> 00:30:20,839
conversation about how some of these newer, you know, I'm reluctant
547
00:30:20,839 --> 00:30:23,800
to call them holding companies, but like collections of brands are also
548
00:30:24,119 --> 00:30:27,040
keeping an eye on what those supply chains look like to create
549
00:30:27,040 --> 00:30:28,239
some degree of stability there.
550
00:30:28,239 --> 00:30:28,439
Right.
551
00:30:28,439 --> 00:30:31,959
So like we know that Otorology Dominique Renault has been investing in
552
00:30:31,959 --> 00:30:34,520
their supply chain significantly, and that will create some degree of
553
00:30:34,520 --> 00:30:38,079
stability, whether those suppliers are exclusive to them or not.
554
00:30:38,520 --> 00:30:42,640
This is certainly something that we've seen Parmigiani do for many, many,
555
00:30:42,640 --> 00:30:46,160
many, many years, you know, with how they've slowly brought in their own
556
00:30:46,160 --> 00:30:49,640
suppliers, we've seen this with Kari Pudilainen, you know, and the way
557
00:30:49,640 --> 00:30:52,959
that he has approached creating a supply chain for the various brands
558
00:30:52,959 --> 00:30:56,880
and manufacturers that he is responsible for managing, leading, or working at.
559
00:30:57,160 --> 00:30:58,719
So this goes in.
560
00:30:58,719 --> 00:31:05,640
Will we see a cycle of acquisition of suppliers where these holding
561
00:31:05,640 --> 00:31:09,079
companies or independents realize like, I need to lock down and have
562
00:31:09,079 --> 00:31:10,800
more control over my supply chain?
563
00:31:10,839 --> 00:31:14,640
Well, it leads you to see where, and this is what I was saying is a
564
00:31:14,640 --> 00:31:16,079
recurring theme in our conversations.
565
00:31:16,079 --> 00:31:18,959
Like this is a grand reorganization of the watch industry, right?
566
00:31:19,599 --> 00:31:22,760
Why does the alternative horological alliance exist?
567
00:31:23,079 --> 00:31:26,199
It exists for the sharing of intellectual property and resources, right?
568
00:31:26,439 --> 00:31:29,920
So the idea being that you have five brands that can come together and
569
00:31:29,920 --> 00:31:33,719
essentially say, we can shoot, you know, if we pool our resources creatively,
570
00:31:33,719 --> 00:31:37,719
intellectually, and on occasion from a production standpoint, then we, we
571
00:31:37,760 --> 00:31:42,479
insulate ourselves from some of the industry shocks that have hit this
572
00:31:42,479 --> 00:31:44,000
business over the last few years.
573
00:31:44,000 --> 00:31:45,640
And inevitably we'll hit it again in the future.
574
00:31:45,959 --> 00:31:49,920
That is the same logic that we see from an HHDR, the same logic we see from a
575
00:31:49,920 --> 00:31:54,280
Parmigiani, the same logic we see, you know, from even a Richemont buying
576
00:31:54,280 --> 00:31:57,880
a Val Fleurier years ago, you know, these or, or swatch, of course, and, you
577
00:31:57,880 --> 00:32:01,880
know, being the proto here with a fantastic example, because it's an
578
00:32:01,880 --> 00:32:05,839
independent brand, it's not part of a large holding company and they
579
00:32:05,839 --> 00:32:07,359
were very wise to acquire them.
580
00:32:07,359 --> 00:32:07,640
Yeah.
581
00:32:07,640 --> 00:32:09,959
And they make us, I have to imagine they make a part of
582
00:32:09,959 --> 00:32:11,560
the success of that brand.
583
00:32:11,719 --> 00:32:13,959
Well, and they make a good living, especially with like voucher.
584
00:32:14,000 --> 00:32:14,199
Yeah.
585
00:32:14,280 --> 00:32:17,079
You know, I mean, voucher supplies, caliber calibers
586
00:32:17,079 --> 00:32:18,439
to all sorts of folks, even Ming.
587
00:32:18,719 --> 00:32:23,319
So I think, I think it's an interesting reality check here when you see, okay.
588
00:32:23,319 --> 00:32:26,239
Industry shock, gut punch to the industry.
589
00:32:26,359 --> 00:32:29,000
Some businesses are now realizing what they need to do in order
590
00:32:29,000 --> 00:32:30,199
to create some more stability.
591
00:32:30,439 --> 00:32:35,160
Supply chain has been proven to be one of the weakest links in the, the
592
00:32:35,160 --> 00:32:40,040
revenue chain of the Swiss watch industry, the COVID proved that, you
593
00:32:40,040 --> 00:32:44,119
know, the, uh, the, the illegal tariffs that have been imposed and the economic
594
00:32:44,119 --> 00:32:48,520
brutality that came out of that has, has created a second, you know, example
595
00:32:48,520 --> 00:32:53,119
within one decade of why managing, supporting an incident and having a
596
00:32:53,119 --> 00:32:55,319
solid supply chain is so critical.
597
00:32:55,560 --> 00:32:59,439
So I think, you know, it, it, it begs these kinds of interesting questions.
598
00:32:59,439 --> 00:33:02,199
And to be clear, I'm not suggesting this is what Richemont did.
599
00:33:02,199 --> 00:33:04,959
This is complete conjecture, but it's an interesting thought to be like, well,
600
00:33:04,959 --> 00:33:10,400
what would you rather have a bomb on Mercier or a dial workshop, a hand
601
00:33:10,400 --> 00:33:11,560
workshop at, you see what I'm saying?
602
00:33:11,560 --> 00:33:12,199
Yeah.
603
00:33:12,199 --> 00:33:13,800
It's kind of like this interesting, very interesting.
604
00:33:13,839 --> 00:33:14,079
Yeah.
605
00:33:14,079 --> 00:33:16,359
Like if I were sitting there looking at it, I'm like, well, what would I rather
606
00:33:16,359 --> 00:33:20,760
have another brand that is dependent at high scale or take that money and
607
00:33:20,760 --> 00:33:24,359
reinvest it into my supply chain, reorient around the high end and make
608
00:33:24,359 --> 00:33:26,239
sure that I built a fortress of a business.
609
00:33:26,239 --> 00:33:26,520
Yeah.
610
00:33:26,880 --> 00:33:27,959
I'm not saying Richemont's done that.
611
00:33:27,959 --> 00:33:29,760
I mean, uh, Val Fleury is a good example.
612
00:33:29,760 --> 00:33:31,280
They also controlled their own foundry.
613
00:33:31,439 --> 00:33:32,000
Yeah, totally.
614
00:33:32,000 --> 00:33:33,920
And who, you know, supplies our cases.
615
00:33:34,199 --> 00:33:34,479
Yeah.
616
00:33:34,520 --> 00:33:35,319
It's, it's interesting.
617
00:33:35,319 --> 00:33:37,199
The market can also adapt.
618
00:33:37,280 --> 00:33:41,959
So when we were in, in the voucher example is a great one because you're right.
619
00:33:42,479 --> 00:33:44,760
Voucher owned by Parmigiani.
620
00:33:45,079 --> 00:33:48,719
Parmigiani seems to be doing remarkably well as a brand.
621
00:33:48,719 --> 00:33:53,479
So you have to imagine vouchers producing more, more calibers for, for them are
622
00:33:53,479 --> 00:33:57,079
certainly doing quite well supplying Parmigiani then they're supplying
623
00:33:57,079 --> 00:34:00,560
independence for years, you know, or work has used voucher calibers.
624
00:34:00,560 --> 00:34:02,719
Um, a number of Indies have used voucher calibers.
625
00:34:02,719 --> 00:34:04,680
Now Ming is knocking on their door.
626
00:34:04,680 --> 00:34:07,800
Most recently with the star field, that's got a voucher caliber and
627
00:34:07,800 --> 00:34:09,760
as voucher caliber as the market.
628
00:34:10,040 --> 00:34:10,360
Yeah.
629
00:34:10,479 --> 00:34:13,919
As the fact, if I'm not mistaken, I think even, uh, Richard meal
630
00:34:14,000 --> 00:34:15,320
uses some voucher calibers.
631
00:34:15,320 --> 00:34:18,479
Chapbeck uses their awesome, uh, chronograph caliber.
632
00:34:18,479 --> 00:34:23,040
So as the, as the market moves up, right.
633
00:34:23,040 --> 00:34:26,080
You would say like, okay, let's just take the movements and, and look at
634
00:34:26,080 --> 00:34:29,959
voucher, like, oh my gosh, this is going to create so much demand for voucher.
635
00:34:30,280 --> 00:34:33,479
Wouldn't you imagine what's going to happen is Parmigiani is first going to
636
00:34:33,479 --> 00:34:37,280
say, well, we have first right of refusal on these movements, number two, the
637
00:34:37,280 --> 00:34:40,479
partners who either place the biggest orders or who have been with us the
638
00:34:40,479 --> 00:34:45,360
longest, get, get access to our calibers and everyone else just
639
00:34:45,360 --> 00:34:46,479
needs to get in line and wait.
640
00:34:46,560 --> 00:34:49,439
However, the market will adapt when we are in Geneva.
641
00:34:49,439 --> 00:34:52,399
And I don't know, I'm not going to say who this was or what the watch was,
642
00:34:52,399 --> 00:34:58,239
cause I'm not sure it's announced yet, but I met with a young up and coming
643
00:34:58,239 --> 00:35:04,080
independent watch brand who showed me a prototype of forthcoming release,
644
00:35:04,080 --> 00:35:09,080
beautiful watch, and I turned the watch over and I was looking at the movement
645
00:35:09,080 --> 00:35:10,800
and I didn't recognize the movement.
646
00:35:10,800 --> 00:35:13,679
I figured like, you know, there's gotta be a Cronode movement in here,
647
00:35:13,679 --> 00:35:15,239
or maybe a voucher movement or something.
648
00:35:15,239 --> 00:35:18,479
I was like, it's a really pretty movement.
649
00:35:19,120 --> 00:35:21,000
It was beautifully architected.
650
00:35:21,000 --> 00:35:22,520
This brand have five letters in his name.
651
00:35:22,719 --> 00:35:23,280
I don't even know.
652
00:35:23,639 --> 00:35:28,199
Beautifully, it was beautifully architected, beautifully finished.
653
00:35:29,000 --> 00:35:33,679
Looked every bit a high horology movement you would expect to see in a
654
00:35:33,679 --> 00:35:38,719
watch, $20,000 and up the supplier of the movement was Salida.
655
00:35:39,120 --> 00:35:39,600
Oh yeah.
656
00:35:39,679 --> 00:35:43,840
There is a, and I had no idea they could make a movement like this.
657
00:35:44,000 --> 00:35:45,399
And I was like, Salida really?
658
00:35:45,399 --> 00:35:50,959
And he's like, yeah, there's a division within Salida that makes high end
659
00:35:51,439 --> 00:35:56,239
movements and supplies, high end movements, custom movements to independence.
660
00:35:56,760 --> 00:36:00,560
And this is a movement that was executed again on the level of something like a
661
00:36:00,560 --> 00:36:03,439
Cronode or a voucher or anything like that.
662
00:36:03,840 --> 00:36:04,560
You can beep it out.
663
00:36:04,560 --> 00:36:05,080
Who was this?
664
00:36:05,600 --> 00:36:06,600
This Havid Nagan.
665
00:36:07,239 --> 00:36:07,840
Really?
666
00:36:07,840 --> 00:36:08,040
Yeah.
667
00:36:08,639 --> 00:36:08,840
Yeah.
668
00:36:09,520 --> 00:36:09,840
Yeah.
669
00:36:10,000 --> 00:36:10,719
You saw the watch.
670
00:36:10,719 --> 00:36:11,320
Yeah.
671
00:36:11,360 --> 00:36:14,760
So that's a, that was, that was a Salida movement.
672
00:36:15,159 --> 00:36:21,159
And so my point here is if voucher is winning, that doesn't mean Salida loses,
673
00:36:21,199 --> 00:36:21,439
right?
674
00:36:21,439 --> 00:36:22,120
Yeah, no, for sure.
675
00:36:22,159 --> 00:36:25,679
Salida can adapt and the market can adapt and evolve around it.
676
00:36:25,679 --> 00:36:28,320
And of course the businesses that will win over time are the
677
00:36:28,320 --> 00:36:30,239
ones who can evolve and adapt.
678
00:36:30,280 --> 00:36:30,639
Yeah.
679
00:36:30,760 --> 00:36:36,120
So, I mean, look, if we, so to put a pin in all this, obviously we see, you
680
00:36:36,120 --> 00:36:40,719
know, there'll be some bumps in the road ahead and that's, you know, excluding.
681
00:36:41,320 --> 00:36:46,679
All of the various economic, you know, tomfoolery that we're currently
682
00:36:46,679 --> 00:36:48,120
experiencing, what will happen?
683
00:36:48,600 --> 00:36:49,040
Well, sure.
684
00:36:49,040 --> 00:36:50,760
I mean, there's other things too, that we haven't accounted for too.
685
00:36:50,760 --> 00:36:54,520
Like the cost of jet fuel, if it is even available will also impact the delivery
686
00:36:54,520 --> 00:36:57,919
of watches and timelines and things like that, like that's not a joke either.
687
00:36:58,439 --> 00:37:03,639
So all of these things are, are, you know, which is brew of, of challenges,
688
00:37:03,760 --> 00:37:06,520
but to the industry has proven it's resilient.
689
00:37:06,919 --> 00:37:08,399
The reorganization continues.
690
00:37:08,600 --> 00:37:13,360
The supply chain clearly needs to be bolstered and supported and, and nobody's
691
00:37:13,360 --> 00:37:20,120
position right now is really cemented and guaranteed, which might sound
692
00:37:20,159 --> 00:37:22,719
ominous and onerous, but I don't mean it too.
693
00:37:22,800 --> 00:37:26,719
No, the Salida example is a perfect example of how, you know, change
694
00:37:26,719 --> 00:37:30,679
and difficult circumstances can bring around really exciting developments.
695
00:37:30,719 --> 00:37:31,080
Totally.
696
00:37:31,120 --> 00:37:33,439
And it may end up creating, I mean, the other thing too, is if you think
697
00:37:33,439 --> 00:37:38,520
about it, if you have heavy upfront costs in investing in bolstering,
698
00:37:38,520 --> 00:37:41,959
maybe even buying your supply chain, sure that will impact, you know, near
699
00:37:41,959 --> 00:37:46,919
term costs, but over time amortized value will be significant, significant.
700
00:37:47,280 --> 00:37:50,000
And we'll create a, hopefully a more stable business.
701
00:37:50,000 --> 00:37:53,760
The question then of course, being if everything moves around and you do
702
00:37:53,800 --> 00:37:57,280
have a more bolstered system like that.
703
00:37:57,879 --> 00:37:59,679
Will it be harder to break in as a new brand?
704
00:37:59,919 --> 00:38:00,159
Yeah.
705
00:38:01,360 --> 00:38:04,719
I want to ask you a final question here about the swatch group.
706
00:38:04,800 --> 00:38:05,080
Yeah.
707
00:38:05,479 --> 00:38:10,479
So great for swatch group up 7.2% in the final corner of the year.
708
00:38:10,479 --> 00:38:12,600
We covered this in the past, their full year reporting.
709
00:38:12,600 --> 00:38:14,239
They were down for the year.
710
00:38:14,280 --> 00:38:15,439
Revenue is down.
711
00:38:15,439 --> 00:38:18,040
Profitability was really rough.
712
00:38:18,040 --> 00:38:21,479
I mean, it was essentially that they made a modest profit, but it was
713
00:38:22,479 --> 00:38:25,239
no, no profit compared to their, to their revenue.
714
00:38:26,000 --> 00:38:28,719
And if you zoom way out and you look at.
715
00:38:29,399 --> 00:38:35,399
Swatch group relative to LVMH and Richemont, it just isn't performing.
716
00:38:36,120 --> 00:38:38,199
They're not, they don't have the margins.
717
00:38:38,199 --> 00:38:39,840
They don't have the performance.
718
00:38:40,439 --> 00:38:44,080
If you're an investor and you're looking at how those two businesses
719
00:38:44,080 --> 00:38:48,800
perform, both in terms of their revenue, their profitability and their share
720
00:38:48,800 --> 00:38:54,239
price, you know, like an investment you'd want to hold swatch group
721
00:38:54,239 --> 00:38:56,639
leaves a lot to be desired.
722
00:38:57,360 --> 00:38:58,239
And we talked about that.
723
00:38:58,320 --> 00:39:04,239
Now the news here is that ISS, and this is a company that it's a research
724
00:39:04,239 --> 00:39:09,560
company that provides research analysis and recommendations for institutional
725
00:39:09,760 --> 00:39:12,919
investors on how they should vote in proxy votes.
726
00:39:12,919 --> 00:39:16,800
So if there's a shareholder vote, you know, and you're an institutional
727
00:39:16,800 --> 00:39:19,879
investor who has lots of holdings, you need someone to do the research
728
00:39:19,879 --> 00:39:23,320
to tell you like when the proxy statement comes in, how you should vote,
729
00:39:23,399 --> 00:39:27,919
whether you're, you know, black rock voting, you know, cause you have I
730
00:39:27,919 --> 00:39:32,360
shares or you're in a doubt, large endowment or whatever it is you need.
731
00:39:32,679 --> 00:39:35,840
Some, someone out there to do the research and give you some recommendation.
732
00:39:35,840 --> 00:39:36,120
Yeah.
733
00:39:36,120 --> 00:39:37,679
You know, you got any good stock tips.
734
00:39:37,679 --> 00:39:43,560
So ISS recently published a recommendation to give the activist
735
00:39:44,159 --> 00:39:46,800
who's going after the Hayek family.
736
00:39:46,800 --> 00:39:52,520
And we talked about this, I think it's woods capital to give them a board seat.
737
00:39:53,120 --> 00:39:55,239
And this is really unusual.
738
00:39:55,239 --> 00:40:00,520
Usually these, these analysts kind of stay out of proxy fights or, you know,
739
00:40:00,520 --> 00:40:05,080
they might say like, you know, the shareholder should vote for a board
740
00:40:05,080 --> 00:40:10,120
change or vote for, you know, addition of a board seat or a change, but they
741
00:40:10,120 --> 00:40:14,000
won't necessarily endorse like a specific candidate for a board seat.
742
00:40:14,439 --> 00:40:16,239
So this is very unusual.
743
00:40:16,239 --> 00:40:21,360
And it points to essentially the outside view that the performance of the
744
00:40:21,360 --> 00:40:27,600
swatch group is probably in their view, just not acceptable, comparable to,
745
00:40:27,919 --> 00:40:33,560
to competitors and that there needs to in particular be an aggressive shake up there.
746
00:40:33,959 --> 00:40:40,520
So my question for you is let's assume there, there needs to be a board shake
747
00:40:40,520 --> 00:40:43,760
up as swatch group, and we can make the argument against sure that, Oh, look,
748
00:40:43,760 --> 00:40:46,959
they're starting to turn things around and Oh, look, who knows the business
749
00:40:46,959 --> 00:40:48,520
better than the high X over the longterm.
750
00:40:49,040 --> 00:40:54,800
But if you were given a board seat at swatch, what would you advocate for?
751
00:40:54,800 --> 00:40:58,159
What would you want to change at this moment in time in the industry?
752
00:40:58,159 --> 00:41:03,159
If your thesis here is that these difficult circumstances force change
753
00:41:03,199 --> 00:41:06,000
and that can be a good thing, what would you change at swatch?
754
00:41:07,159 --> 00:41:11,080
I think that the swatch group for a fair amount of time with a few notable
755
00:41:11,080 --> 00:41:17,239
exceptions, like the moon swatch has suffered from a lack of clarity of vision.
756
00:41:18,239 --> 00:41:25,199
There are something like 700, maybe 600 in production skews for Omega.
757
00:41:26,280 --> 00:41:27,959
I can't understand why that is.
758
00:41:28,719 --> 00:41:34,120
Omega, as we've discussed in the past is an incredibly powerful brand and one
759
00:41:34,120 --> 00:41:37,000
with tremendous opportunity, heritage, and quality.
760
00:41:37,080 --> 00:41:37,760
I love Omega.
761
00:41:38,040 --> 00:41:38,239
I do.
762
00:41:39,000 --> 00:41:41,080
I'm wearing a Speedmaster here, here.
763
00:41:41,679 --> 00:41:45,320
And I think it lacks at this point focus.
764
00:41:46,840 --> 00:41:50,639
It is a surmountable problem, but I will think, I really think
765
00:41:50,639 --> 00:41:52,040
it would be a critical component.
766
00:41:52,199 --> 00:41:54,080
And then there's all sorts of like nitpicky stuff, but
767
00:41:54,080 --> 00:41:55,040
really I think it's that.
768
00:41:55,560 --> 00:41:58,840
And then on the high end for their high-end watchmaking with
769
00:41:58,840 --> 00:42:02,239
Blancpain and with Breguet, I'm wearing a, I'm wearing a
770
00:42:02,239 --> 00:42:03,360
Neo-Vintage Breguet right now.
771
00:42:03,679 --> 00:42:07,320
Oh, it turns out this podcast is sponsored to you by the swatch group.
772
00:42:07,360 --> 00:42:07,840
Exactly.
773
00:42:07,879 --> 00:42:10,120
Make sure to send in your proxy ballots.
774
00:42:10,120 --> 00:42:10,760
Let me tell you something.
775
00:42:10,919 --> 00:42:13,080
If we're ever going to be sponsored, I'm pretty confident.
776
00:42:13,080 --> 00:42:15,919
It's not by the swatch group, but I think AP might sponsor me.
777
00:42:17,000 --> 00:42:17,560
Jesus.
778
00:42:17,600 --> 00:42:18,159
Could you imagine?
779
00:42:18,800 --> 00:42:23,159
But I think Breguet is a perfect example, you know?
780
00:42:23,159 --> 00:42:27,239
And I mean, you and I both love Breguet different eras for different reasons,
781
00:42:27,239 --> 00:42:32,679
but like, you know, we, we do, and that's another brand along with Blancpain
782
00:42:32,800 --> 00:42:38,479
that just with some focus, all the ingredients are there, you know, it
783
00:42:38,479 --> 00:42:41,399
really could, I think, make a mean, and I'm talking obviously here in the
784
00:42:41,399 --> 00:42:44,320
United States, I can't speak to how these brands work in other markets,
785
00:42:44,320 --> 00:42:47,760
but here in the U S it really, really could benefit from, and I
786
00:42:47,760 --> 00:42:50,439
think would succeed with focus.
787
00:42:50,919 --> 00:42:55,159
And what I mean by that is, you know, where you have an overabundance
788
00:42:55,199 --> 00:43:00,800
of references from Omega with Breguet and with Blancpain far fewer watches
789
00:43:00,800 --> 00:43:06,520
being produced, far fewer references being produced, but I still maintain
790
00:43:06,840 --> 00:43:11,320
that, especially with Breguet, it's very difficult to understand who these
791
00:43:11,320 --> 00:43:17,879
watches are for at the prices they're being made at being sold at, I think
792
00:43:18,159 --> 00:43:21,360
under their new leadership, there are some signs of focus.
793
00:43:21,639 --> 00:43:24,959
Some of the experimental stuff we saw at the end of last year was, was very
794
00:43:24,959 --> 00:43:28,719
interesting, their acknowledgement that the tradition line is where the
795
00:43:28,719 --> 00:43:32,120
attention is and seeing some of those changes, you know, made to the, the
796
00:43:32,120 --> 00:43:36,439
classic line too, like the new case architecture they've introduced.
797
00:43:36,639 --> 00:43:36,840
Yeah.
798
00:43:36,840 --> 00:43:38,040
I think it's a good update.
799
00:43:38,159 --> 00:43:38,919
They are.
800
00:43:38,959 --> 00:43:42,679
And these are good choices, which is why I'm like, I'm optimistic, but I still
801
00:43:42,679 --> 00:43:48,000
need to see that get pushed a lot further with clarity of message to the
802
00:43:48,000 --> 00:43:53,719
market, and that's not there yet, yet with Omega, I don't know, but with,
803
00:43:53,760 --> 00:43:59,560
with Blanc and Blancpain, I don't know, but with Breguet, I have some degree
804
00:43:59,560 --> 00:44:03,280
of, of optimism and that might just be my own, just hope for, you
805
00:44:03,280 --> 00:44:04,399
know, a brand that I like.
806
00:44:04,439 --> 00:44:04,840
Sure.
807
00:44:04,840 --> 00:44:05,159
Yeah.
808
00:44:05,159 --> 00:44:07,479
You know, so maybe I'm on hopium as they say, but like,
809
00:44:07,479 --> 00:44:08,760
I gave you the board seat.
810
00:44:08,760 --> 00:44:09,919
You can do what you want with that.
811
00:44:09,959 --> 00:44:15,000
But that's, that's kind of where I would, I would focus and, you know, whether
812
00:44:15,000 --> 00:44:16,760
that would make much of a difference.
813
00:44:16,800 --> 00:44:20,760
I don't know, but just speaking from my perspective.
814
00:44:20,879 --> 00:44:21,000
Yeah.
815
00:44:21,000 --> 00:44:23,280
I'm going to go all the way back to the beginning of this episode.
816
00:44:23,280 --> 00:44:27,159
When we talked about Toledano and sham, which is a brand defined
817
00:44:27,199 --> 00:44:29,600
by a clear idea and point of view.
818
00:44:30,800 --> 00:44:32,959
I think that's what they need across the board.
819
00:44:33,080 --> 00:44:38,520
Swatch group credit to, to Nick Hayek senior for architecting the
820
00:44:38,520 --> 00:44:42,919
modern day watch and luxury holding company, essentially, you know, kind
821
00:44:42,919 --> 00:44:46,040
of he and Gunter Blumlein in their own ways, kind of, they created the
822
00:44:46,040 --> 00:44:49,320
template for this world that we know this ecosystem we've talked about.
823
00:44:50,199 --> 00:44:54,879
The master stroke of Nick Hayek and creating the holding company was to say,
824
00:44:54,879 --> 00:44:58,959
I'm going to diversify this holding company, not just with a collection
825
00:44:58,959 --> 00:45:01,479
of brands, but brands across different price segments.
826
00:45:01,479 --> 00:45:01,800
Sure.
827
00:45:01,840 --> 00:45:02,159
Right.
828
00:45:02,679 --> 00:45:05,879
I think that insight has worked for a while.
829
00:45:06,040 --> 00:45:11,080
It worked in a world where everyone needed a watch, you know, it no longer
830
00:45:11,080 --> 00:45:16,159
works, like what you need to do now is define your brands and your brand
831
00:45:16,159 --> 00:45:20,399
roster, not by price point, but by creative point of view, look at the
832
00:45:20,399 --> 00:45:24,320
brands that are succeeding in today's market, they're defined not by a price
833
00:45:24,320 --> 00:45:26,760
point, but by a creative point of view, a hundred percent, right.
834
00:45:26,879 --> 00:45:28,879
Ming is a great example of this.
835
00:45:29,159 --> 00:45:34,399
A Ming at $5,000 can be just as successful as a Ming at $50,000.
836
00:45:34,639 --> 00:45:38,360
Not because, you know, they own one segment of the market and other, but
837
00:45:38,360 --> 00:45:42,280
because they're divine defined by a creative vision and approach to watch
838
00:45:42,280 --> 00:45:46,959
making Toledano and Chan has moved up in price point as they've moved their
839
00:45:46,959 --> 00:45:47,280
production.
840
00:45:47,280 --> 00:45:48,360
These are all independents.
841
00:45:48,399 --> 00:45:51,800
So do you see anybody in the mainstream that you would categorize in that way?
842
00:45:52,320 --> 00:45:54,840
I think Cartier is a good example of that.
843
00:45:54,879 --> 00:45:56,439
It's a party has been doing this stuff forever.
844
00:45:56,479 --> 00:45:56,719
Yeah.
845
00:45:56,719 --> 00:45:59,760
But this is a brand part of the reason they're able to succeed.
846
00:45:59,760 --> 00:46:01,360
Rolex is able to succeed.
847
00:46:01,679 --> 00:46:05,639
I think they're, they've defined themselves not by a particular price
848
00:46:05,639 --> 00:46:10,879
point, but by a point of view, who they're for, what they stand for.
849
00:46:10,919 --> 00:46:15,320
I think Swatch needs to be less parochial about positioning brands around price
850
00:46:15,320 --> 00:46:19,479
point and do a brand audit and say, you know, first, first, first things first.
851
00:46:19,919 --> 00:46:26,080
Does each of these brands, Hamilton, Mito, Tiso, Sertina, the list goes on and on.
852
00:46:26,679 --> 00:46:31,879
Sertina does each of these brands have a clear point of view, a clear reason for
853
00:46:31,879 --> 00:46:35,520
being, are they just occupying a price point if they're just occupying a price
854
00:46:35,520 --> 00:46:40,639
point, we need to move on and we need to focus on a roster of brands where each
855
00:46:40,719 --> 00:46:43,560
brand fulfills a particular vision.
856
00:46:43,639 --> 00:46:47,000
And then they can activate the second creative vision, creative vision,
857
00:46:47,280 --> 00:46:49,879
because no, not everyone needs a watch anymore.
858
00:46:49,959 --> 00:46:53,959
You know, if you're a dude, when the high X created the Swatch group, if you're a
859
00:46:54,000 --> 00:46:57,919
guy or whatever it was called before it was called Swatch group, if you're a dude
860
00:46:57,919 --> 00:47:02,320
or a woman or whomever in the world in 1980, you need a watch.
861
00:47:02,840 --> 00:47:03,120
Yeah.
862
00:47:03,280 --> 00:47:04,520
You don't need a watch anymore.
863
00:47:04,520 --> 00:47:09,199
You wear a watch as a now, as purely as a manner of expression of
864
00:47:09,199 --> 00:47:12,719
self-expression, what you're interested in, who you are, what you stand for,
865
00:47:12,719 --> 00:47:14,600
what you like, all this kind of stuff.
866
00:47:15,120 --> 00:47:16,399
So they got to ask that question.
867
00:47:16,600 --> 00:47:18,439
Then they need to trim the brands accordingly.
868
00:47:18,439 --> 00:47:21,479
And then they need to activate what they have hiding in plain sight.
869
00:47:21,479 --> 00:47:26,280
You talked about how Richemont and other companies have widely, wisely brought in
870
00:47:26,280 --> 00:47:30,479
capabilities, like their own supply chain into their holding company.
871
00:47:30,560 --> 00:47:31,600
Swatch already has that.
872
00:47:31,600 --> 00:47:32,959
Forget just ETA.
873
00:47:33,239 --> 00:47:37,080
They own companies that do micro engineering.
874
00:47:37,239 --> 00:47:40,360
They own companies that do crazy things with Sapphire.
875
00:47:40,560 --> 00:47:45,120
They have a whole, they have just as many companies within their
876
00:47:45,120 --> 00:47:51,719
portfolio that are suppliers and parts makers and R and D R and D
877
00:47:51,719 --> 00:47:53,399
capabilities as they do watch brands.
878
00:47:53,959 --> 00:47:57,000
If each brand owns a clear, creative point of view, then all of a sudden
879
00:47:57,000 --> 00:48:01,840
you can activate all of this technology and all of this research and development
880
00:48:01,840 --> 00:48:05,360
capability that you have, because you're not so worried about, oh, well, we can't
881
00:48:05,360 --> 00:48:08,280
do something interesting with Sapphire here because it wouldn't fit the
882
00:48:08,280 --> 00:48:09,600
price point of this brand.
883
00:48:09,959 --> 00:48:14,399
Then you start to say, oh my gosh, this brand stands for X, Y, or Z.
884
00:48:14,520 --> 00:48:16,479
This is our experimental brand.
885
00:48:16,560 --> 00:48:18,399
It's avant-garde, you know, whatever it is.
886
00:48:18,760 --> 00:48:20,959
Well, of course we'll do something with Sapphire.
887
00:48:21,120 --> 00:48:22,080
That makes total sense.
888
00:48:22,320 --> 00:48:26,000
So I think they're not making use of the assets they have because they're so
889
00:48:26,000 --> 00:48:30,879
defined and limited by positioning each of the brands relative to price that they're
890
00:48:30,879 --> 00:48:33,080
leaving creative opportunity on the table.
891
00:48:33,840 --> 00:48:34,520
Very fair.
892
00:48:35,280 --> 00:48:35,919
You want a board seat?
893
00:48:36,360 --> 00:48:37,679
No, I do not want a board seat.
894
00:48:37,840 --> 00:48:40,520
And by the way, I had an idea for an episode I think we should do in the
895
00:48:40,520 --> 00:48:45,080
future, which is it's very easy for us to sit here and make pot shots at the
896
00:48:45,080 --> 00:48:48,080
Swatch Group and tell them how they should run their business and what they're doing.
897
00:48:48,080 --> 00:48:49,719
We have no idea.
898
00:48:49,719 --> 00:48:54,520
They have stakeholders and constraints and considerations we could never fathom.
899
00:48:54,520 --> 00:48:56,560
So it's very easy for us to do this.
900
00:48:56,560 --> 00:49:01,199
And I'm sure if we had that board seat, we would immediately be humbled.
901
00:49:02,199 --> 00:49:03,879
More importantly, we're not perfect either.
902
00:49:04,439 --> 00:49:05,439
We've made mistakes.
903
00:49:05,439 --> 00:49:06,320
Speak for yourself.
904
00:49:06,520 --> 00:49:08,600
We've made plenty of mistakes.
905
00:49:08,639 --> 00:49:10,600
I can't even make that joke without feeling guilty.
906
00:49:10,919 --> 00:49:11,199
Go ahead.
907
00:49:11,199 --> 00:49:13,600
We've, we've made plenty of mistakes in this business.
908
00:49:13,600 --> 00:49:16,600
I think it'd be interesting to do an episode on the, on the mistakes we've
909
00:49:16,600 --> 00:49:21,639
made and, and what we've learned from them, you know, as people in the watch
910
00:49:21,639 --> 00:49:25,000
industry, as business people in the watch industry, because I can tell you
911
00:49:25,000 --> 00:49:26,520
we've made plenty of mistakes.
912
00:49:26,760 --> 00:49:30,439
However, we've learned from those mistakes and all of them
913
00:49:30,439 --> 00:49:32,520
have actually made us stronger.
914
00:49:32,760 --> 00:49:35,800
So maybe we, we eat some, we eat some crow.
915
00:49:35,800 --> 00:49:39,199
We can do an episode on our mistakes because we are not perfect.
916
00:49:39,199 --> 00:49:39,719
Far from it.
917
00:49:40,159 --> 00:49:40,560
Right on.
918
00:49:40,719 --> 00:49:41,120
All right.
919
00:49:41,120 --> 00:49:45,199
Well, good luck to the, good luck to the holding companies.
920
00:49:45,239 --> 00:49:49,159
Seriously, we, we do wish you well, and that's not, that's not
921
00:49:49,159 --> 00:49:51,320
something we say sarcastically.
922
00:49:51,560 --> 00:49:55,320
Truly you are the straw that stirs the drink in this industry.
923
00:49:55,320 --> 00:49:58,600
You are the, the, the whale in this ecosystem.
924
00:49:58,840 --> 00:50:04,760
We all depend on these companies doing well and succeeding to continue to enjoy
925
00:50:04,760 --> 00:50:09,000
watches, whether they're from these companies or from other players in, in
926
00:50:09,000 --> 00:50:12,919
this industry, so we will see, and we'll continue to track how they
927
00:50:12,919 --> 00:50:14,959
navigate this period of change.
928
00:50:15,560 --> 00:50:16,639
Right on, right on.
929
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Well, thank you for listening.
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Open work is of course, a production of collective horology.
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You can find us online at collective horology.com and get in touch with your
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questions, your feedback, your comments.
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Tell us all the stupid mistakes we made and the things we should do differently.
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And to do that, you can email podcast at collective horology.com.
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A day that would live in infamy.