# Sport Climber

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TBP 172 :: 8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since …

How Tokyo will be an Olympic Games like no other for Canada's athletes

When Canada’s Olymians arrive in Tokyo later this month it won’t be the games that they, or anyone was expecting. While events are going forward, Japan is limiting who can come into the country, and of course there’s the whole concern lingering due to a global pandemic. Postmedia national sports …

TBP 180: Grades - How to Keep Your Ego in Check with Matt Pincus

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’…

TBP 188 :: Rest - How Much Is Too Much and Navigating the Holidays

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’…

Olympic Channel podcast ‘The Maximum’ with Mick Fanning, Sven Thorgren and Josh Levin

For an Olympian, pushing things to the maximum is normal. But where is the breaking point? We speak to pro-surfer Mick Fanning about when your days of performing at the maximum have passed, sport climber Josh Levin about peaking performance and we put snowboarder Sven Thorgren through his physical …

Episode 187: Brittany Goris- To Dream the Impossible (Trad) Dream.

On Episode 187, I sit down with recent trad convert, Brittany Goris. We were ensconced on a very cold evening in the Mobile Studio parked in the Supercrack Parking lot in Indian Creek. Brittany started as a boulderer and sport climber but has been spending her energies recently exploring the limits…

Episode 186: Sean Bailey – The New Old School.

On Episode 186 of the Enormocast, I sit down with comp climber, boulderer, and sport climber, Sean Bailey. Sean’s outdoor feats include an ascent of Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Ceuse, France and Joe Mama (5.15a) at Oliana, Spain. His comp results have put him on top of Nationals in both bould…

Episode 182: Molly Mitchell – Silence the Mind, Send the Climb.

On Episode 182 of the Enormocast, I sit down with young(ish) trad and sport climber, Molly Mitchell. I first hung out with Molly just two short years ago, and in the interim, she has burst onto the scene as a professional climber ticking hard trad and sport ascents with ease. Molly is not you’re ty…

The Climbers Speaking Up About Eating Disorders

To become an elite climber, you need to get very good at defying gravity. This requires developing extraordinary control of your body while also maximizing your strength to weight ratio. To do that, you train constantly and also pay attention to your diet. At the upper echelons of the sport, where …

Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that dares to touch THE ultimate strength debate climbers love to argue about: Comparison of Climbing-Specific Strength and Endurance Between Lead and Boulder Climbers authored by Nicolay Stien, Atle Hole Saeterbakken, Espen Hermans, Vegard Albert Ver…