ABOUT THIS EPISODE
Description
There’s a stretch of road between Wimberley and Blanco called the Devil’s Backbone. In daylight, it’s some of the prettiest country in Texas. After dark? Well, that’s another matter.
For generations, people have told strange stories about this limestone ridge—ghostly riders, unexplained sounds, and things seen in the canyons that nobody could quite explain.
In this special Halloween episode of The Texan Edge, Tweed turns to two stories collected by Texas folklorist Bert Wall: the mysterious riders reportedly heard and seen by more than one person, and the unsettling tale of an experienced professional hunter who went looking for a livestock predator in 1948—and came back 35 days later wanting nothing more than to leave.
Are they true? You can decide that for yourself.
But if you ever hear hoofbeats along the Devil’s Backbone after dark...
Keep driving.
Show Notes
For our Halloween episode, we head into the Texas Hill Country and down Ranch Road 32—the Devil’s Backbone.
Bert Wall spent years collecting the strange stories told by people who lived and worked along the Backbone. In this episode, we explore two of them.
First are the Mystery Riders. Wall’s ranch foreman, Lynn Gentry, reported hearing what sounded like approaching thunder before realizing it was the pounding of horses’ hooves. Gentry said he went outside and saw a group of mounted men who appeared to him to be Confederate soldiers. Other people later reported similar experiences.
Then comes The Predator, a story Wall said was told to him in 1983 by an elderly World War II veteran about events supposedly occurring in 1948. Ranchers plagued by livestock killings hired an experienced professional hunter. What he reportedly encountered included an enormous white ram with red eyes, a cave filled with rattlesnakes, what appeared to be chests of gold—and an experience frightening enough that the hunter wanted no part of any of it.
These are only two of the many stories associated with the Devil’s Backbone. There are plenty more waiting out there in those Hill Country canyons for another night.
Primary source: Bert Wall, The Devil’s Backbone: Ghost Stories from the Texas Hill Country
This isn't just a podcast, it's a Texas state of mind.
IN THIS EPISODE
SHOW NOTES 🔗
TRANSCRIPT 🔗
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The Devil's Backbone.
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There's a stretch of road in the Texas Hill Country between Wimberley and Blanco called The Devil's Backbone.
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And if you've ever driven it, well, you know why people remember it.
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It runs along a limestone ridge, high above the valleys and the canyons below.
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In daylight, it's some of the prettiest country in Texas.
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But we're not going to be there in daylight.
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Hi there, I'm Tweed Scott, and this is the Texan Edge.
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And since Halloween is upon us, I thought we might take a little drive down the devil's backbone.
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Now, before we go any farther, I need to introduce you to a fellow named Bert Wall.
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Wall was a fifth-generation Texan who spent a lot of time in the hill country.
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Beginning in the 1980s, he started collecting the strange stories that people told about the backbone.
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Ghost, unexplained lights, animals that probably weren't animals, and writers.
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Lots of writers.
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Wall eventually filled books with these stories, and some of them even wound up on television.
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Now I've spent some time reading Wall's work, and I'm going to tell you two of his stories today.
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Now I'm not going to tell you that they happened, and I'm not going to tell you that they didn't.
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I'm just going to tell you what people said happened, and you can take it from there.
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Because one of the stories people have told for years along the devil's backbone concerns the sound of horses.
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Not a horse.
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Horses running hard.
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Burt Wall had a ranch foreman named Lynn Gentry.
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One night Gentry was lying in the bunkhouse when he heard what he first thought was thunder somewhere off in the distance.
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Except the sound kept getting closer.
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And pretty soon he realized it wasn't thunder.
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It was hoofbeats.
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A lot of them, coming fast.
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The sound became so powerful that things inside the bunkhouse reportedly began to shake.
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So Gentry did what I'm not entirely sure that I would have done.
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He went outside.
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And he said he saw somewhere around fifteen or twenty men on horseback.
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To Gentry, they looked like Confederate soldiers.
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And then they were gone.
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Now, Confederate cavalry in this part of Texas isn't something somebody invented for a ghost story.
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During the Civil War, Peter C.
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Woods of San Marcos raised a cavalry company, largely from Hayes County.
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It became part of the 36th Texas Cavalry.
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So there were Confederate horsemen from this part of the country, but I haven't found any evidence telling me who Gentry's riders were.
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Assuming, of course, that there were riders at all, and Gentry wasn't the only person reported hearing them.
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Years later, a rancher named Charlie Beatty owned the property next to Walls Ranch.
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Beattie told a reporter that one night he heard the horses too.
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There are other accounts.
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Another hunter reportedly heard that what sounded like dozens of horses coming through the country, and he said he saw what he believed were Confederate cavalrymen.
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And that's where this particular story gets under my skin just a little bit.
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One man hearing horses late at night, okay, sound carries strangely through those canyons.
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But when different people at different times start describing something similar, well, I don't know.
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And apparently, neither did Bert Wall, and that's why he collected the stories.
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But of all the things Wall once wrote about the devil's backbone, there was another story that bothered me even more.
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Maybe because this one wasn't about somebody who went looking for ghosts.
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It was about a man who knew how to hunt.
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The story was called The Predator.
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Wall said he heard it back in August of 1983.
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He was working with some men finishing a fence on a ranch along the backbone.
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And one of the men was in his early eighties, a World War II veteran who had spent years working these central Texas hills and canyons.
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And at some point the old fellow looked out across the country and started chuckling.
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Well, Wall asked him what was so funny.
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And the old man told him a story about something that had happened back in nineteen forty eight.
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Ranchers in the area were having a problem.
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Something was killing livestock.
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Cattle, sheep, goats.
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They tried traps, didn't work.
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They tried hunting dogs, didn't work.
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In fact, nobody seemed able to get a good look at whatever it was doing the killing.
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And finally, the ranchers decided they needed somebody who knew what he was doing.
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So they hired a professional hunter.
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And according to the story, he wasn't some weekend deer hunter.
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He was an older man who had spent most of his life hunting out in the Guadalupe Mountains of West Texas.
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He knew predators, and apparently he was pretty confident in his ability to deal with this one.
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Well, give me thirty days, he said, and leave me alone.
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I'll come back with your predator, collect my money, and head back to West Texas.
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So they did.
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They left him alone.
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Thirty days passed.
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Nothing.
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Thirty five days after he'd gone out, the hunter finally came back.
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And according to Wall's story, he didn't look like a man coming home from a successful hunt.
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He was tired, haggard, and anxious to leave.
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Something had happened out there.
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The hunter said he found a trail and started setting traps.
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But something strange happened.
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The traps were being sprung.
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The bait wasn't being eaten.
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It was almost as though whatever he was hunting knew exactly what the traps were.
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And after a while the hunter began getting an uncomfortable feeling.
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He wasn't sure that he was hunting the predator anymore.
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He began to feel like the predator was hunting him.
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Then one day he finally saw it, and after all that buildup, you'd probably expect me to tell you it was a mountain lion or something, maybe a wolf.
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Some enormous cat nobody had seen before.
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No.
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According to the hunter, it was a goat, more precisely, an enormous white ram.
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He estimated it weighed at least two hundred pounds, and it had huge red eyes.
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The hunter followed it.
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And eventually the animal went into a cave.
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He approached the entrance and he could see those eyes looking back at him from inside.
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And apparently this old professional hunter, well, he came to a conclusion that animal wasn't afraid of him, not at all.
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So he raised his rifle and shot it right between the eyes.
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Then he heard something.
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At first he apparently thought it sounded like rifle fire, and then he realized what he was hearing was rattlesnakes.
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According to the story, there were hundreds of them inside that cave.
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Now, I'm going to tell you something.
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If I shine a flashlight into a dark hill country cave and discover hundreds of rattlesnakes, my investigation is over.
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But this fellow was made of much sterner stuff than I am.
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He shined his light into the cave.
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There was the ram, down on the ground.
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There appeared to be blood beneath its chin, but its eyes were still open, still looking toward the mouth of that cave.
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And then the hunter saw something else.
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Farther back, inside, he thought he could see wooden chests and what looked like gold coins.
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Now think about that for a minute.
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There's supposedly a fortune sitting inside that cave, and the hunter wants absolutely nothing to do with it.
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He doesn't go after the gold.
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He doesn't drag the ram outside as proof of what he's killed.
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He just flat leaves.
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Thirty-five days after the confidently telling those ranchers that he'd bring their predator back, this experienced professional hunter returned tired, haggard, and ready to get the hell out of Dodge.
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And when the ranchers asked him what he'd been hunting, he told them.
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Now, did that happen?
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I haven't the faintest idea.
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And neither you nor I have to decide that.
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What we do know is that Bert Wall said an elderly World War II veteran told him that story in 1983 about something that supposedly happened along the devil's backbone in 1948.
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That's what folklore is.
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A story gets told, then somebody tells it again.
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Years pass, people die, and the story stays.
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But here's what bothers me about this one.
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It's not the red eyes, it's not even hundreds of rattlesnakes.
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It's the hunter, a man who had spent most of his life in rough country hunting predators, apparently walked away from something he couldn't explain.
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He didn't want the animal, he didn't want the gold, he just wanted out.
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And for me, that's the creepiest part of the whole damn story.
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Now these are only two of the stories people have told about the devil's backbone.
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Burt Wall filled books with them.
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There are even stories about apparitions, strange animals, unexplained sounds, and things that people claim to have seen out there that they couldn't explain.
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Enough stories, I suspect, for us to come back and revisit another night.
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But I think two are enough for tonight.
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So we'll leave the devil's backbone right where we found it, out there between Wimberley and Blanco, that old limestone ridge, those deep canyons, and Ranch Road thirty two winding through the darkness.
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And if you ever find yourself driving that road late at night and you hear something off in the distance, listen carefully.
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It might be thunder.
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And if it isn't, keep driving.
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I'm Tweed Scott.
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This is the Texan Edge, and our porch light is always on.
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If you enjoyed this episode, tell a friend about the Texan Edge and how to find us.
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Our porch is big enough to handle everyone.
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Until we meet again, take care of your precious selves, and we'll see you soon with another episode of the Texan Edge.