Azteca Dreams

[NON]FICTION PEOPLE Podcasts: So after a very early morning after the night before I now find myself in Houston at pitch 25 whose tagline is where Houston meets to watch soccer and what a place it is. I'll give you a tour a little bit later on, but what a day yesterday. Honestly, it was incredible and so I'm sure you had your own experiences, but if you're interested in reliving my day in Mexico City, heading off to the Azteca for what has already become a classic England game, beating Mexico in the Azteca last night in what must have been the early hours, I think a 4am finish for you guys back in the UK. But here's my little journey through honestly an experience of a lifetime. I hope you enjoy it. It's almost 11 o'clock here in Mexico and I'm just near my apartment at a coffee. You can hear horns going. It's 11 a.m. The kickoff is 6 p.m. Can you hear those horns in the background? The bin men have just been round with Duvo Zellers. People are tooting horns whenever they see a show. I would say one in three people are wearing a green Mexico shirt in every restaurant, in every bar, in every cafe. Seven hours to go. the atmosphere is really building up already. Everyone, mean everyone, man, woman, child are just walking around with Mexico shirts on. There's a great trade in replica Mexico shirts here. I was gonna buy one but they our signs, look really dodgy, they're gonna peel off in no time. I'll wait for the sales. What a day! I'm on the hunt for a poncho. One of the street sellers offered me a raincoat for 25 quid. I'm alright thanks. head to Walmart see what I can find. I've headed off to meet my mate Chike who go into the game with as I say it's half eleven now, six and a half hours before kickoff. I've come towards the city centre, which could prove to be a mistake because there are roads being blocked and shut down and the whole city is preparing for this extraordinary thing and you really really do get the sense that this is The biggest game in Mexico history. It's huge, like the whole city is preparing for something massive. And it just makes you want to ensure that whatever happens with the result in the game, that there isn't controversy. You know, you don't want it kicking off as a consequence of the result that whoever wins, you know, does it in a brilliant, spectacular way and it's all fair in love and football. That's my hope. I've gotta admit, I'm nervous about the atmosphere. You know, there's been a lot of stories about crushing and crowd control and the craziness around the stadium and so yeah hopefully we can just keep our head down and out of trouble and all these things, but it's gonna be like nothing I've experienced before. Let's hope it's a good thing. Anyway, let's go grab some food before we go to the stadium. So in a slightly ill-judged move, we've decided to walk into all the chaos. And this main main archave of a road is all shut down with big screens before. It's four hours before kickoff. Imagine Houston Road from King's Cross to Paddington. That's basically where everyone's gonna be watching the game. Absolutely crazy. we're down in the underground. I we're getting photos with the locals. Evan seems very generous and positive. It is four hours before the kickoff. I think that's gone right. Yeah really I'm going to England on penalties. I think it's gonna be like one all, two all and then it'll go penalties. I don't know if my heart's gone too. I know. No, yeah. Yeah yeah, for sure. We're getting the train to Tusquina and then I think there's a link to the stadium. It's four hours before kickoff. here comes a train. Let's see if this all goes to plan. I think it's gonna be a vibe on the train. It's already pretty full on there. Let's see what happens. This is giving me Jubilee line to Wembley Stadium. Rumbles. Well we're going in the right direction, Chiiki, at least that's good. I hope so. Well it's hope so. aircon. Love it. Just a c a comment on the architectural nature of Mexico's subway system. Very nice. Chandelier in the station. Much nicer than the New York subway. A sea of Mexican fans in front of us. behind us literally Chika and I are the only ones in English shirts and then our new friend from Ipswich alright and we're literally the only English fans in the station as we do the classic mantra of follow the crowd onto the next train which takes us to within walking distance of Azteca so let's go the atmosphere is building countdown Still three and a half hours to go. Make it go, make it go, make it go, make it there we are and as the thunder claps out around the stadium there is that beautiful cathedral of sport, the Azteca Stadium. And it's such a vibe already. Mexico fans keep coming up asking us to have pictures with the England shirts. I guess because we're in the proper minority. It's also because of how handsome Chike and I obviously. But look at that amazing proper cathedral to sport. People travel the world. Going to the Duomo or the Vatican, but I'm here going to this, the high church of Mexican football, the Aztec. I can't wait to get inside. it's just been like a beautiful strike of lightning right over the centre of the stadium. Wish we'd have caught that on camera, but you may see I've donned this time, once bitten twice shy. The waterproof rain coat, courtesy of street sellers in New Mexico City. Look at that stadium, the rain's coming down. Well hopefully we'll take this for an hour and then we'll have a nice balmy evening. Thank you for the translation, thank you. Good luck, friend. Good luck. Yeah, good take care. Mexico fans just translating the Raoul song. Thank you. it's beautiful! Well done Oz by the way. Timing, we made it, this is really good. We worked out great. Well also well done Mexico City Transport. Really good, clean and cheap, air conditioned, from centre town right to the stadium. Another advocate for this amazing sea. Absolutely love it. Fuppos coming home again with Thomas to go. Right, let's go find our first corona and pay fifteen pounds. Mexico porque cantando se alegran cielito y no los corazones Do you guys want to be in a ticket? talk out. Go! TikTok sensations, Chi K and I. Yeah, the Mexico fans are singing a I I think it's an anti English song. We asked what the lyrics were, and some people said you don't want to know. We've been queuing for our fan IDs, you might well have seen them. You can scan them on your phone and get like dedicated t shirts with pictures from the stadium, so it's a really cool thing, actually, and they're not even overpriced. The IDs are free, but you get the t shirts and memorabilia and stuff that. But they're not handing them out because. of the electric storm there's this massive crowd around the store that they're handing about and they won't do it until the storm's over and everyone's just really confused as to what a free little cart has to do with electric storm we'll never know comment in the post if you know why you can't have a contactless card in a store anyway so we're gonna have a little walk around I think it's time for a little beer perhaps and we'll go back and get our fan ideas. Come on make it good Éxico, éxico, éxico. say like the whole tone of the atmosphere is really brilliant. We are massively outnumbered, massively outnumbered. But the atmosphere is great and you just try and flip reverse it as we did a bit in New York and as I said before the game I didn't like the atmosphere. It's rocking here so it's nothing to do with rain, it's to do with people. Really really fun at the minute. Get a beer. If you were ever in doubt that FIFA's ripping everybody off, you can get a beer for about three, four quid in Mexico City generally. Fifteen quid here. Ridiculous. News has felt in through, Norway 2, Brazil 0! so that's setting up a Mexico-Norway quarter final. Really? god, I hope not. To be honest, I think I'd rather face Brazil than Norway if we get through this match. Well I can see England fat! England vat! This is the distasteful song about England fans. Guess it's all fun, is it? Doesn't always feel fun with England fans, but well. That's sport. you Stay! Two hours to go kick off. Maybe the 12 o'clock high day wasn't that bad. Consider the side of this little It's like a single for the minute. All good humor so far. mile with the outfits today. They're King Kird. look at this guy. Brilliant. Also, whilst we were studying the Rosen Crown as it sort of became over there, the news float through Brazil 192, which is I think really interesting. Not great for my potential ticket resale in Miami. And I think if England get through this game, I'd have preferred to play Brazil. It's gonna turn into a Premier League game, isn't it? Haaland up front, Odegaard in the middle, and a lot of English Premier League players. Interesting. I mean not getting ahead of ourselves, this is a big test, obviously. Anyway, the rain's still going. think it's about half four now. Maybe like an hour and a half before kickoff. The rain really hasn't stopped since we set off. An hour and a half Ago, so it's pretty incessant. It's not really stormy anymore, it's just drizzle. It's gonna make for a wet pitch. You know all this, but just save. Can I get my sip first? For good Mexican! Mexico! Mexico! Mexico! No Scotland aborted Hey Bellow, Bell look, bell look. Good luck, otherwise. Bad luck. Bad luck. You're staying home. my god, that's so fun. So I've just been giving Mexican face an anti-Scotland song. I said it was pro-Scotland, then they gave me a no Scotland no point. Let's go. Let's go. We're gonna fuck you, but I love you. Oxford. Oxford! So cool. He's studying there. cool, yeah but now's the other way around. Yeah now it's you've gotta like get get the colours on. Yeah, good tell you, man. Take care. I Chi Gate has just been recognised. Good vibes here, really good vibes. We've got find some food. Well, here's a lady with chicken nuggets. Should we get some? having our chicken nuggets and a Mexican guy came over was like it's like fish and chips they're sort of chicken nuggets Mexican style great banter going on very good humoured very positive Mexicans will sing wanker in your face and then go welcome to Mexico have a nice time so it's really fun been into the actual seats yet that's always the exciting bit but I would say it's 95% Mexicans 5% English fans at the minute Really amazing. Okay, here we go. Life ambition about to be fulfilled. Entering out into the Azteca Stadium the seed. very pitch where the hand of God took place. Here we go. my god. Let's see that. my god! It's high! absolutely stunning arena it's just a beautiful ball and the pitch looks incredible congratulations to the groundsperson because that pitch is stunning my god it is covered I didn't think it was covered we're gonna It's a sea of green right now. We're in the proper Mexico end. I mean talk about breathtaking. Maybe it's the altitude, but I definitely feel a bit lighter at breath. It's so amazing. And you'll have seen this on the TV, but It feels fantastic. gosh. I can't get my smile down. Such a good vibe. And after all the storms that are in, apparently the kickoff is gonna be on time, so good on So you guys yeah where do you live? Mexico City How long have you had these tickets? We have a lot of family from it. Yes, really. Where are they? Are they watching the game today? Sitting in the other side! that's so cool! How do you feel about today? You're right! I hope Mexico win because they deserve, but we respect so well. I mean we respect England. I just hope it's a really good game. Yeah, absolutely! It's gonna be electric, isn't it? Electric, yes. Someone said this is the biggest game in Mexico history, do you think that? Yes, yes of course. Absolutely. And we will win. Do you have any memories of 86? Yes, we are very young but we we have memories. Did you come to any of the games in 86? I come to one game with my family, yes. Which game was it? Because I'm 50. I'm 50 years old. Okay. So I remember watching it on the TV. On those evidence. And of course, for us, it was the hand of God in this stadium. you remember that? Yeah, yeah, I really remember. Yeah, yeah. So this is just amazing to be here because my childhood memory was watching games in this stadium, you know? So to travel the world and come here and be here is really special. Of course. Yeah. Well, I mean how long to kick off? 45 minutes or something? And the atmosphere is rocking. I mean honestly, So where are you guys from? I'm from Sheffield. from Carlisle. really? I'm a Man United fan, so my friend from London's a Man United fan as well. It's a classic thing. So tell me about this trip, what's it happened so far? Well we start we started in what do you start in New York? We saw Panama Game, which is incredible. Then we went to Atlanta, and then we're here and we hopefully go through to Legend Hamlet. Yeah. So we've got 60,000. I mean this atmosphere like trumps New York by a million, doesn't it? 100%. This is insane. Yeah, Mexico in Mexico City and the other second. Yeah, we were the majority in New York and it didn't have the same vibe, but I'm loving being a minority here. It's really good. And they're so kind aren't they, the fans, like they're fun. Yeah, they like to have fun with you in like they sing abuse and 20 songs. A guy went, Wanker, Wanker! Sorry, welcome to Mexico. So it's really good. I mean how are you feeling about the actual game? I think I think it's like those early stages, if we can get through those like the first 20 minutes. Yeah. I think I'm I've been pretty confident but yeah they didn't have a split my god like I know it's to kick off the cross and will you go to Miami if you can or not? I thought these guys are gonna go to Miami. Okay, yeah. Me too. Against Norway now I mean I'm slightly good. I think we have a better chance to get to Brazil but what is this like? I mean on that pitch Maradona did the hand of God right down there. It's weird isn't it to think that crazy to be here is yeah this would be just a lifetime. Like I was at the Aseco, Rescue versus England. I was there. man. Well have a great time, I hope you enjoy it. Me too. The girls can't be my god, the play one play Mexicans and buoy but with a big smile on their face So the kickoff's been delayed an hour, Chike. Yep. But the DJ is doing a great job in it. One Mexican song followed by one English song for like an hour, it's pretty great. And right now the fans are vibing out, having a dance. I'll just set Chiqu like one atmosphere, it's so fun. It's like, yeah, until they lose. Of course. And we'll see what the atmosphere happens then, right? Nah, I'm sure it's gonna be fun, isn't it? I just can't get none, I just can't get enough. Down there just like England and Mexico fans is having great chats. And I I found all about it, I know, but like it's so so evidential here. The Mexican spirit is very generous and kind and welcoming. And the England fans are laughing at all. There's just this wonderful atmosphere between the two fans. And of course it's all pre-game, right? That can all change, but it's a really, really atmosphere. And I would say one of the best sporting atmospheres I've ever been in. It's really not. good time obviously and you know the beers are flowing I've just been giving it a either shot by the basic season Perfectly. area Fighters! Good! We are making smoke! a second of Wembley. Guns come as well. They've got samba drums going. I don't know if it's sambury mexico. Everybody is wanting to be on downscar. So special. Here we go, the flag ceremony is about to begin. A slightly reduced FIFA arc, I notice, has an aficionado of these things. But the flags are about to be unfold. Good luck Brandon from FIFA who's organizing this whole thing today. Delays can't be easy for that. Incredible stadium ever. We're about to see the flags of Mexico and the flags of England, the St. George's cross unfold. The first is the FIFA Globe. And then here we go. Ready for this noise? Let me tell you, they're not gonna be cheering St. George's flag, that's my biggest clue. But standby, here we go! Shall by slightly in the darker environment. Higgins being delayed, it's 7 pm here now nearly. The lights are popping and what a sign that is. The biggest game in the history of Mexican football. That's what I've been told by Mexicans, well, here it is, at last. matter. you I won't. Alright well I guess we should play some football and decide what all of this is about. With literally four, five hours of anticipation and build-up and celebration and camaraderie. And now the game begins. That's why we're all here. Let's see what happens. England's first corner. An early goal would really fucking do it on this game. The atmosphere is so fucking hostile, everything is cheered. The ref really needs to be up to this. I'm not sure he's gonna be. Yellow car for declaring after a minute, fuck's sake. Great ball in. no. the fucking hydration brakes so terrible it's pissing it down it's less than 20 degrees horrible horrible American commercial bullshit Gianni Fantino isn't slashed Anyway there I've said it block me we'll just wait until I get back in America tomorrow and block me You Look at the fans down there! Oh my god, I mean, it's going to be no way in this game and there's two chances of us winning! The Mexican fans are right back in there with the Mexico chance. They're not giving up yet. wow. my god. So I mean, maybe that was the game plan. I just said to Chuca, I was like, I hope there's a master plan here. Because I ain't seen it yet. But the master plan was sit, sit, sit, pounds. Sit and pounds, and they put it twice in a row. Amazing. Time. goodness I've just been for P and everywhere like you know there's a few Brits and I've basically I mean I don't know if you know about the etiquette of standing at your idols in major sporting arenas but generally you don't normally talk to each other but the conversation's been flowing as much as the urine because England fab first like great chance like the stressful nature of it and then a Mexican what's great is as you go through Down the stairs, it's busy, it's congested, everyone's just like slapping each other on the back, like talking about what a game is and no animosity in the crowd, it's just like possible, it's just proper, positive vibes and everyone's appreciating the game and the atmosphere. The noise, the noise when the Mexicans get behind a moment is somewhere else, so 2-1 I said before the game all I want it to be is just a classic, no controversy and it's none of the goals you can moan about so far. It's just a great game. The Mexicans have been awesome, they were dominating the half really and then England just pounced with two moments. Well you remember all this. Well do you remember it? It's 2 a.m. before you went before you start watching this. as you listen to this, I hope you manage to get some sleep, who knows what the result's gonna be, but wow. an experience. Truly the best so far. Boys, how are we feeling? Half time. I'll tell you everything you want to know. Like we're fucking glad we got to half time first of all. We were all begging for it and I'm glad we did. A two cool team talk, we'll be absolutely fine, lads. We've gone in one nil up. But how good? We're like against the break, those two Bellingham goals, fucking amazing. Jude, what a legend. I sat thinking is there a master plan to this game or not? But there was, weren't there? Sit, sit, just pounds. Yeah. And it was great, but then to lose one, my by the way, when they scored, we got absolutely fucked. Drowned in beards. Tuchel's given team talk of a night time the lads have had a breather subs to come come on England it's coming home Coming up there's the verdict What's your point of view? What's the Mexican perspective? We are coming back we are fucking coming back all a good game though right yeah we are coming back yeah we'll see it's a halftime light show. Only half time and the fireworks go no. It's half time! There's fireworks going off the roof of the stadium! Flamethrowers down! It's half time for God! Here come the teams. Are you ready for this? Wow. 2-1! Who knows how this is gonna pan out? It's 12 against 11 and I don't mean the rest. So let's see how this crowd can inspire Metzger. But we're gonna do our bit as well. we've only seen one quick replay but feels harsh to me. That feels like an atmosphere situation. So it's a penalty. Despite the histionics of the keeper from Ezio, Nico Riley went straight away and stood on the penalty spot. Again trying to dig it up. He's trying to do his thing. What a match this is. Get ready to be covered in beer if this goes in, Gigi. Here we go. Come on. My husband is una mamala. What does that mean? Crazy. Is it your husband? More than crazy. More than crazy. More than crazy. I've just been given my friend here, we had a bet before the game that the winner gets their shirt. But it's over it's not over yet, there's 20 minutes to go. It's a fucking great shirt though. Is this your husband? This is my husband. Wow. Great guy. There's plenty time left, there's plenty of time left. I'll just hold on to it for now. But just being giving it a pellet. The drama in this game is something else. Sabai for Red and Beer. You can't take it, honestly. It's too much this whole thing. Beer just got thrown before the penalty and the crowd didn't like it. They all turned on him. He's gonna save it. Come on, Jordan. Thank you very It's the hydration break. And this is insane. I can only imagine what it's like watching on TV, but here is madness. And the crazy, we don't get to see any of those replays. You've no idea if it is a red card, isn't a red card, is a penalty, isn't a penalty. No replays. We're the ones who are here. But still 3-2. This is gonna be the longest 25 minutes, 30 minutes, 40 minutes of England's life. My life. Jesus. Eleven minutes of extra time, which we all know means 15. Jesus Christ. Seven minutes left of this out of time and I Thanks. You might have fucking Literally seconds left. How can they shoot and then get a corner? It's 11.38, supposedly 11 minutes of extra time, but for some reason there's another minute with absolutely no stoppage in any of the extra time whatsoever. But here we go. Gonna be out there, fucking hell. test for England Jesus Christ Escape of the tournament, maybe war result, We're gonna try and go behind the goal if it's possible. Fuck it out, cheeky, we did it! Fuck it out! It's hard, I don't want to be too exuberant because of the nature of the result and everything, but inside, I mean, seriously, an extraordinary, extraordinary experience to be here. I don't We came behind the goal at the last minute. What day? I mean the anticipation this morning to the build-up, the raid delay, the atmosphere in the stadium, the fun between the fans, the controversy on the pitch, and the 11 minutes of out of time, which is the longest 11 minutes of my life. And here we are, quarter final of the World Cup in Miami. And guess what? Got tickets, baby. Norway, England in Miami! So it's gone on down behind the goal in the celebration in Old England. Team and staff have all surrounded someone who's on the floor. I don't know what's gone on, but they're trying to make cameras go away from it. So it's obviously something not great, but the players are really anti, the photographers of Duke Bellum's climbing over in time to go away now. I hope it's alright. Reminds me of when I pulled my handstrings scoring that try, the bare. touch my bra. Hopefully it's less serious than that. Still something going on down in the England Circle. Stretcher there. Go, I hope it's alright. Just one last look at this extraordinary stadium. Scene of one of the greatest World Cup matches. Feels like a la a massive act of unity. The entire team and staff are surrounding whoever they're in and they're walking off together. Interesting to read what's happened there, but Just trying to see back see Harry King. It's not Harry Kane, is it? Where is Harry Kane? Can't see how it can. Anyway, look at that. See the England fans up there on the thirteen. screen and there's another tear at the bottom direct So many Mexico fans have just stayed around because it's clearly just an amazing atmosphere and maybe it's disbelief and frustration but G Bellingham gets them out of the match. Of course he does. Two goals in the World Cup last 16. What a This is where the face paint and the donated gift top comes in handy as we leave the stadium. I hope you enjoyed reliving some of those moments. right now I'm in pitch 25 watching Spain, Portugal, the Iberian clash. in a room full of Spanish and Portuguese shirts, but whether many of them are from Spain or Portugal, I'm not very confident. This is obviously a big Hispanic community down here in Houston on the southern borders of Texas. But I'm gonna go out and find out and see who I can speak to. So catch up next time.