Daniel "Tomo" Thomson

WEBVTT
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Light on set. Ladies and gentlemen, Welcome to the Let's Body Podcast with
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your host Benji Weatherly. It's the
podcast where you learn absolutely nothing. All
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right, well, here we go
another Let's Potty episode coming to you season
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three, probably like episode two or
three, four or five. Shore bro
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Our guest today is from a little
town called Lennox Head or believe wait is
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it Balana? Balana? Is that
the others Head? Yeah? Nick said,
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one of the coolest towns you ever
see in your life. It's right
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above Byron if I remember right.
And in just an insane story, we're
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about to hear from a Kelly's favorite
shaper. And I'm not just making that
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shit up. Kelly is very particular
and he absolutely loves writing this guy's boards,
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and he respects a lot more than
just your shaping, which is probably
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the reason why he rides your board
so well, is because he thinks you're
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a great surfer. He thinks you're
a fucking great dude. So Tomo,
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And the reason I'm saying Tomo is
because obviously you're Japanese. What's your full
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name, please, Daniel Thompson Thompson
so Thomas short for Thompson Thompson. Yeah,
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it's just an azzy thing, you
know, Achi Parkinson. And you
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come from a line of like legendary
surf culture people, right. I don't
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know your family, but I heard
you guys know Greeno really well and yeah
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yeah for the people out there,
Greno is back in the die. Yeah,
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yeah, one of them legends from
he's from kind of is Atlantics or
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Byron, he's from you, like, well, he's from Santa Barbara,
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but he lives in Broken Head,
Broken Head, yeah, which is bar
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and by yep. Yeah, and
he's friends with your dad or something.
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I used to be bodies back in
the day. They yeah, back in
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the day, he used to be
really we used to live right by him,
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so they used to hang back back
in the day. And how did
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this happen? How did you start
shepping? Well, yeah, just my
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dad's a shaper, so much like
no other no other choice. But yeah
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it was you know, it's in
the runs in the family. So when
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you were young and you watched him
obviously shaped your boards, right, did
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he get mad if you told him
you didn't like it? No, No,
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he's a really good shaper. Yeah, he's he's incredible shaper. So
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yeah, I was were you in
the room sucking that farm? And yeah,
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when I was like five years old, I'll be like rolling around in
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the farm, you know, and
whatever. Like I grew up in a
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surfboard factory. Basically I loved Alan
Burn's sports. Alan Burn is a shaper
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from uh, what's the gold?
What's What's wasn't he from Algungary? Huy?
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Or was that not? Am I
not right? But I don't think
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so. I might be wrong,
but I'm pretty sure he's based on the
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goal. He has these boards that
have channels that are so deep that a
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glasser and a sander a like really
like you're gonna make me sound that fucking
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thing. I mean, these channels
are like this thick and they're just insane.
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And I always think about him in
that area for shaping from back in
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the day, and so I want
to know, like, when you saw
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him sheaping and it was going along, when did you're like cut your first
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foam and do your first word.
I started probably shaping my own boards around
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the fourteen year age group about that
time, but it was when I don't
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know if you ever saw that Lost
movie five or five, there's that section
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at the end of the movie with
Tom Karran and then at Greeno's house making
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boards and templates and stuff, so
that the Australiers, my dad and I
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was literally like present at every scene
and every certain time. I was about
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fourteen years old, Karen was world
champ. He was the absolute man,
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you know, so he's he was. He was hanging out with my dad
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at the time, like getting boards, kind of like Kelly with me now,
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Like every now and then he would
pop into town and I want to
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get like a flextail or some something
like something crazy, remember those. So
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yeah, Tom was staying at my
house when I was a kid and when
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he was a world champ, so
he was super influential. And then those
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guys were like, you know,
shaping boards and making templates and doing all
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this crazy unique stuff. So that
inspired me to starch. I was like
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I got to get in there and
do these myself, you know. So
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basically from then on, I was
shaped my own boards and kind of was
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like, sorry, Dad, I
want to shake my own boards, dude.
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That's you know what's cool about it
is I did the same thing when
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I was little. I lived that
pape plane and me and my friend Conan
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built me a shaping room under the
house, which ended up becoming Bruce's house
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or room that he stays in after
The Vocal bought it. And UH.
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One summer I made his boards for
the world title World Amateurs in France,
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and I took half of because I
had broken boards at my house because it
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was pipe everywhere. I had Kelly's
Merrick top and then another eric called the
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bottom. Anyway, I shaped my
first board out of that was the template
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off two broken boards and we shaped
that summer and I was like, I
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was probably like fourteen to two and
we did it, and I was like,
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in that time, there wasn't a
machine yet, you know those machines
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Because for the people out there,
like most That's why his story is so
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cool. It's like in that era, current even shaped, like the best
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surfer of all time is in there
shaping and stuff. Now I hate to
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say it, but it's really kind
of lost. Like that's why I think
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your story so rad is you came
from that. Literally, a big chunk
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of foam is what we used to
start with. It's clark foam. It'd
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be like five inches thick. There's
big chunks and you would have to start
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with that. And it was just
sculpting. You're a sculptor, and now
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they have these incredible machines, which
were grateful for. But it just takes
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away from the soul of it.
Nah, I shouldn't say that, but
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it's different. It's just it's just
different. It's just more. It's more
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tools, you know, I like
the computer side of exactly. Yeah,
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I've learned to be you know,
I just s there's another tool these days.
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You know, you can It's really
good for replicating a board and perfecting
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a design, like once you're carrying
that disc to another country and then pushing
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it and get it everywhere. You
know, handshaven is rad and it's a
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great craft. But when you can
replicate your boards exactly the same over and
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over again, then you can get
that consistency is important. You know.
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Do you like this the new technology
with the like what what are your boards?
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Your dark Arts obviously, but you
do Slater design Yeah, FireWire Slater
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Designs and yeah, just recently working
with Dark Arts, so yeah, yeah,
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let's explain that real quick. So
Slater Designs is the umbrella of what
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Kelly and Rob are involved in,
right, but they have shapers from different
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companies right, So it's FireWire,
your your most your models are with with
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them, right Yeah so yeah yeah, FireWire is like the Umbrella company,
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and then Slater designs MA shadow myself, damn man, I've got I saw
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damn Man today. Yeah, so
big tall guy. Yeah, he rips
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this guy, damn Man and to
change the subject. But he serves both
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ways. Yeah, goofy. I
mean he's only left his front side.
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He's always friends switch toney. He
always goes front sight. So on a
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rate, he's in the barrel of
regular foot left barrel. It's insane.
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Dan Man, damn the man him. Yeah. So when you when you
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shaped before all this technology and became
like the shaper for all the Slater design
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and stuff, did you get your
own little label going? And yeah yeah
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yeah so I started like my own
board label, like Tomo was just the
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obviously people would say, oh,
you get a board off Tom saw that.
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Yeah, that's why I say Japanese, Yeah Tomo. I mean it's
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Tomo Tomo, yeah instead of Toe
Yeah. Yeah, not even kidding.
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I heard your name, I swear
to guy. I thought it was Japanese
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guy because everyone was calling you Tomo. Well, it is a Japanese well,
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And interestingly that was where Japan was
my first final, like they probably
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loved that, where my boards did
well before even California. That Japanese loved
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my stuff, so and A means
friend, I believe in Japanese. So
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I was kind of like it was
like a perfect for them, and I
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was stuck. And that's a matchman. But so when you when you started
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doing Slader design and you went from
I mean, I'm assuming you weren't using
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this material before you wid under this
tech ship, right, you're just using
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phone. Well, I've been messing
with this ship for the park season like
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starophone boards like that's kind of been
my things your day dot Like I rarely
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built pu's even when I was dates
me even more so I was like,
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yeah, from the buck it was
automatic that, you know. OK with
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fire Y and I remember when he
came on to Slatyr's team and he had
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a ship ton of he kept talking
about you over and over, and that's
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when I was like, oh,
it must be a Japanese guy. He's
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amazing shaper, he serves good,
he's fucking fun too. He's like he
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takes all the ways. He's really
good surfing he's way better than us,
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so he's nearly in the shaping studio
and just as gnarly in the water.
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Yeah, they said, you have
a really good style stuff I'm looking Are
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you goofy your regular regularly? Yeah? Really? Yeah, Well that's got
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to help, dude. If you
can shape and you're a good surfer,
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you can actually ride them. Yeah, figure it out. Well, it's
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kind of that's why the shaping has
always just been about becoming a better surfer,
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you know, And that was my
skill set that I was interested in.
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You know, what you compete and
ship when you're a literally a bit.
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I wasn't really good at competing like
I was. More. I just
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didn't have that right attitude for the
comps and I was just kind of get
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burned on it. So I did
a bit of QS for a few years,
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and then I was like, I
don't have the money to find this,
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so I'm going to stick to the
shaping, which is obviously a better
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player. Worked out, worked out
good. On this podcast, we love
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supporting quality products and awesome people.
That's why we're so stoked to partner with
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Dark Art Surfboards and their lineup of
shapers. Dark Arts Boards are faster,
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stronger, lighter and ready for wherever
you decide to paddle out. And these
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carbon fiber boards are just for high
performance surfers, with shaping collaborations from Tomo,
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00:10:03.320 --> 00:10:07.639
Paizel, JT. T. Patterson, Album, Rusty DHD, and
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more. There's a dark Art's board
for everyone. Head to their site dark
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00:10:11.679 --> 00:10:18.919
artsurf dot com to check out their
full lineup of surfboards. Spent You spent
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a ton of time here? Yeah? Yeah, yeah, I lived here
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for like ten years. Oh really
in Encinitas, Yeah, nice, and
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probably longer, I mean back and
forth, but from Australia. I'd come
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like six months here and six months
there, and then I did a block
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of about like eight years full time
here where I didn't even barely go back
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to OZ. The place you're in
now is a rental. Uh well,
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I'm not living here now. I'm
in Australia. By the last like five
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or so years, I've been living
full time in OZ. And I'll just
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do like work trips, you know, I come in and did Primo or
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whatever. You know, where's your
shop in US? In cool and gutters.
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I would shape out in my garage
in Linux. Yeah, I don't
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even have a shop. I thought
they have those and you have the brunt
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in China as well though, Yeah, that they develop over there and difference,
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Yeah that is a big sorry about
that. There's gonna be someone knocking
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a big difference. China's communists a
democratic like cool country. But do you
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go over there and have to monitor
or they take care of while the No,
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No, the R and D process
is done here, like I'll monitor,
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I'll check you know the product and
make sure it's they're doing it perfectly
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and then give them the funds up. Basically, you go to tailand every
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once in a while though I've been
once. Yeah it's a good guy,
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beautiful, good food, really cute
people. Yeah, it's weed's legal too.
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Now you can go there and have
a holiday legal. It's like the
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new Amsterdam. Dude, you didn't
know that. No, I'm gonna go
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get some firewires and go to Thailand. You can go get theres no waves,
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blaze and sit on the beach and
drink cocktails. You go to Bali,
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they shoot you in the forehead with
a machine gun. If you have
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weird a good thing. What do
you got? I can't wait to hear
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this. Greg Fernandez send us a
couple of questions too. Yeah. I
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mean my first question is like,
obviously you've been shaping for your whole life,
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basically, what's been your favorite Like, has there been something you've made
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where you're like, okay, this
is an absolute Well he has models?
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Yeah, your first model. Actually, that's a good question, your first
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model. The reason why I know
you is that it's almost like the tail
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and nose are matching. Yeah,
it's like, what was that model called?
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Well, there's a lot of that's
a very common thing in symmetry,
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that double ended shape. Yeah,
but yeah, you're probably thinking like the
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vanguard, Yeah, has like a
little yeah, yeah, yeah, he
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had his own boards. I mean
that's kind of started this whole thing that's
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been going on. I remember,
yeah, yeah, and I kind of
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like initially was shaping you know,
short boards as well as like kind of
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the twin twin fin fish. I
was going on that trajectory when I was
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like in my early twenties, and
then you know, I started messing around
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with some you know, get my
own ideas and creating some really unique stuff
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and they worked insane, you know, they were just that's how well they
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worked. Was really the catalyst.
Yeah, it feels like there's nothing on
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the nose and that holds you back
when you Yeah, to answer your question,
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like, I've created a lot of
you know, like a lot of
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high points in as designs, but
literally the one I got right now is
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the Vader. It's that same shape. I'm kind of bringing that back,
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but I've got a new bottom contour, a new hole design, and it's
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nuts like it feels so I'm so
excited to surf again. So it's it's
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like almost like that's like the new
high points like right now. So yeah,
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I'm really she's going to get a
because Dark Arts shout out to Dark
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Arts there are one of our big
sponsors, and she's getting her first board.
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So maybe it's the Veda Yeah yeah, yeah, yeah, we just
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that's the launch model perfect And it
sounds like I'm just pumping a product,
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but it's literally the best ever written. That's why that question. She always
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comes up with the rat questions,
and that's a good one. Yeah.
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It's like, uh, I need
surfboard racks, so whatever is your favorite,
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we'll go try it. Yeah,
And it's like when we like one
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thing I learned from the computer thing
was I got Kelly's ninety nine bottom was
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like a V and then mixed favorite
fucking rocker and I built it over years
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and now that's my favorite board.
Yeah. And I got to travel when
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I had it was a living in
Bali. The place there would always make
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it. I just send him the
file. Yeah, and it was like
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I got a big tail end of
my career. I was like, holy
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shit, I got to develop the
board that I love and it's my favorite
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board. I just everywhere I went, I wouldn't even I would go there
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and it was, uh, yeah, I love you. It was Kelly's
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ninety nine V board because I like
car so I was a carver. That's
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this this board, this new boards
of full megadee v B and I'm like,
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so far up, so fared up
on V. Lonkives feel like so
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with Kelly's ninety nine merrick Is it
was his favorite board ever and it had
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V and that they put it on
all my boards. It's insane. I
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don't know why it got left behind
in the boards, but it's making a
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comeback, like guys are playing with
it. But it's so it's a new
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ship that you love has V.
Yeah, it's a invader with V like
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a dvday. So when these guys
nowadays, it went from when I was
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a kid, really flat bottoms right, which is a little bit of curve
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that was like this, and then
it got really we kind of stuck to
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that, and then we got like
double concave vs. But then it became
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this concave where it was one big
open all the kids on the surface of
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the board. So I explained that
from brought one point to the rail.
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It's a single concaves, just a
con cave surface vs. The opposite the
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vs. The stringers sits deep in
the water and it kind of the board
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rocks, tilts back and forward real
easy. Yeah, So I'm combining that
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with like a deep concave and multiple
concaves within the V. So I'm throwing
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the concave in the visa offices pretty
high too. Yeah. It's like it's
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like a spawn. It looks like
a full ridge going down the bottom.
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I actually have the board here for
sure. No, you know what we
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might before we in the podcast will
shot because that's I can I can shout
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and explain it. Yeah, but
that would be cool and the so like
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when older guys we like to sink
our boards in and carb and stuff,
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and the kids they like to stay
above the water. So those concave ones
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they have, now you're it's really
hard to ride when it's windy and big
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because they're so loose because there's so
much wind, they skip along, they
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skip her in and what he we're
talking about. The reason I love these
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is on guns you stick to the
water so you can dig in. You
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know, you're in the water,
and the other ones they are almost like
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kind of skipping around. Yeah,
they're more predictable. Yeah, and I
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don't skid it. I'm excited to
try that the light material that you guys
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use with a V because I've always
got Conk's and they're so loose and weird,
254
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and I'm like, that's gonna be
fun. Car tibers everything now,
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00:16:51.480 --> 00:16:56.080
you know, well it's the highest
you know, tech engineering product, you
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know, the lartest and the strongest
product on earth. Really, that's why
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they build f ones exactly. You
know, if America's cup yachts or any
258
00:17:03.839 --> 00:17:07.119
anything high text. When you break
one of your boards, you can't fix
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00:17:07.200 --> 00:17:10.920
them, can you? You could? But it's like, well it's really
260
00:17:11.200 --> 00:17:14.039
it's really hard to break it.
For a start because they're so strong.
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But yeah, you can totally you
fix it. It's just the same process.
262
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You just patch it. But they
don't go yellow and ship like normal
263
00:17:21.039 --> 00:17:23.200
boards, right, they stay,
especially the dark art's black. No,
264
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the black ones weren't. No,
of course, not better, you know.
265
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The you just got to keep them
out of the sun, you know,
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because the sun will get them hot
and you can bubble on them,
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you know. So it's it's that. And yeah, don't let water,
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you don't if you crack it,
don't let it get down the water.
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Yeah, what's the excuse me?
What's the plan for the next year?
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You got? Do you do boards
for their companies or all these companies as
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like like a sheet, or do
people shape them for you on the side
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and you just do the pros or
yeah, I have my own business in
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Australia to a custom to my surfboards
where I and shape you know in ours
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and Pop's fucking proud or what that
you're doing his work? He still shaping,
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he gets jealous. Funny, Yeah, he's a funny. He's a
276
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funny. Yeah, because I mean
you took some uh no, he probably,
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yeah, he's he's sure, he's
proud. Is he still shaping?
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00:18:18.160 --> 00:18:21.680
Yeah, yeah, he's kind of
like he's like, you've taken all my
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00:18:21.799 --> 00:18:25.359
business. So good. He's like, I'm happy to doing it, but
280
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what the fuck? Yeah? Yeah, So he's kind of like that,
281
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you know, I'm sure he's proud. Yeah, but he still builds boards
282
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and he's kind of into foiling now. So it's all about the foil foil
283
00:18:33.519 --> 00:18:37.519
boards and the down wind foiling and
wing foiling and all that stuff. So
284
00:18:38.079 --> 00:18:42.079
he and writing surf mats he loves
oh really yeah yeah, explaining that Like
285
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so a Greno, the guy that
we're talking about, is this legend.
286
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He got into rafting on waves and
ship and your pops is into that now.
287
00:18:51.599 --> 00:18:53.440
He's been doing it for years.
Yeah yeah, thirty yeah, twenty
288
00:18:53.559 --> 00:18:56.359
years. It's so hard to do. It's really hard, but it's actually
289
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really fun. I do it a
bit too treasure when I was. When
290
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you're injured or something, you can
still get out there. It's sick fun.
291
00:19:03.680 --> 00:19:07.640
You gos so to talk about going
fast. Absolutely, those things have
292
00:19:07.759 --> 00:19:11.119
going mock like faster than any surfboard. It's we did at gums and got
293
00:19:11.160 --> 00:19:14.640
smoked. We're just trying to pull
in it and you need a point break.
294
00:19:14.680 --> 00:19:17.559
You need to. You can't write
it in shore break and just get
295
00:19:17.640 --> 00:19:22.640
lit up. Get lit up.
So you've got the Vader, that's your
296
00:19:22.720 --> 00:19:27.319
new board. Are you working experimenting
on a new model or yeah, I'm
297
00:19:27.359 --> 00:19:32.200
always I got like several new models
on the go at all times because I
298
00:19:32.279 --> 00:19:37.160
got all these like potential, you
know, partnerships, you know, maybe
299
00:19:37.240 --> 00:19:41.559
one for Kelly. Everyone wants something
new all the time. So is Kelly
300
00:19:41.640 --> 00:19:45.599
traded the new the new model that
you love. No, he hasn't.
301
00:19:47.000 --> 00:19:51.960
He hasn't even tried it. Get
on, buddy, for it's a bit
302
00:19:52.000 --> 00:19:56.799
scared of that nose. I think
totally that guy is. I was with
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00:19:56.920 --> 00:20:02.440
him when we did the Wizard sleeve
right, so was really he bade me
304
00:20:02.519 --> 00:20:04.359
when I still have my uh my
little nephew rides it, and why I
305
00:20:04.440 --> 00:20:07.880
still made you know, wizards even
the first Then we went to that p
306
00:20:07.039 --> 00:20:10.680
Pass trip where he wrote it for
the first time with Andy and everybody,
307
00:20:11.359 --> 00:20:14.680
and everyone was like what the Oh. Actually I was with him when he
308
00:20:14.839 --> 00:20:18.640
did at the Goldie the Quicksilver contest
and Julian being him that one year that
309
00:20:18.799 --> 00:20:21.720
Yeah, I was on the beach
watching him. So I stayed with him
310
00:20:21.759 --> 00:20:23.279
during that connest and I filmed that
heat did the whole thing, and I
311
00:20:23.359 --> 00:20:26.799
go, you got ripped off,
like he was ripping. But they didn't
312
00:20:26.960 --> 00:20:30.519
like it, right, I mean, he couldn't understand and understand what was
313
00:20:30.559 --> 00:20:33.799
happening. He's and we went up
to where he lived in Chugen or whatever,
314
00:20:33.079 --> 00:20:36.680
and we're watching the ways after he
lost, and he was he couldn't
315
00:20:36.720 --> 00:20:40.279
understand why why they were scoring on
that way, kept watching him back,
316
00:20:40.279 --> 00:20:42.000
you know, he's so he's a
weird man. But he was like,
317
00:20:42.440 --> 00:20:45.640
fuck it, you know, I'm
gonna stick to it. And then literally,
318
00:20:45.799 --> 00:20:48.720
like in one or two years,
everyone started writing tiny little boards and
319
00:20:48.680 --> 00:20:52.000
he was I was like, he
totally was ahead of the curve on the
320
00:20:52.079 --> 00:20:57.000
little board. Yeah, even though
wizard sleeve it developed into what you started
321
00:20:57.039 --> 00:21:02.000
making. The first one was literally
almost too small, right, like a
322
00:21:02.079 --> 00:21:03.440
five O or something. Remember it
was like a little UFO. I don't
323
00:21:03.440 --> 00:21:06.880
know, I think I remember it
was a five four maybe four, But
324
00:21:07.039 --> 00:21:08.079
at the time he was riding like
a five to ten before that, so
325
00:21:08.160 --> 00:21:11.200
it was like, yeah, way
down. Yeah, it's just chopping the
326
00:21:11.279 --> 00:21:14.400
noise. You don't need all that
nose area and it's just a pointy thing
327
00:21:14.519 --> 00:21:18.000
just sticking out of the water anyway, so it's not giving you any flotation.
328
00:21:18.079 --> 00:21:21.920
It's just kind of old surf videos. Shane Dorian is riding a six
329
00:21:21.960 --> 00:21:26.359
to two. It's just just long. Yeah, our crew, what if
330
00:21:26.359 --> 00:21:29.720
we would have had short boards back
then. Well, it's just different.
331
00:21:29.759 --> 00:21:32.880
So, I mean it's just different
ways the row wives. But that's that's
332
00:21:32.920 --> 00:21:37.039
the most important thing, is just
having fun and keeping keeping pot, you
333
00:21:37.119 --> 00:21:40.400
know, because if you and every
day you'll be feeling good. You want
334
00:21:40.440 --> 00:21:42.559
to see one of those six two
that's later won the world title and see
335
00:21:42.599 --> 00:21:45.720
you do these giant rotations with this, it would look silly, you know,
336
00:21:47.039 --> 00:21:49.319
yeah, be hard to do the
good especially that rocker that had him
337
00:21:49.519 --> 00:21:53.440
that nose like slip it out.
We were out of our minds and they're
338
00:21:53.519 --> 00:21:57.119
so narrow. It was so it
was narrow in like a skinny little toothpick.
339
00:21:57.519 --> 00:22:00.400
And now they're look hard to row. It was so hard to write.
340
00:22:02.599 --> 00:22:04.640
That's kind of why I was like, I don't know, I couldn't.
341
00:22:04.720 --> 00:22:07.519
I couldn't surf them that well,
you know, I was like these
342
00:22:07.559 --> 00:22:11.200
are too hard to surf. You
know, I've spent my life surf and
343
00:22:11.240 --> 00:22:12.960
I still can't. And we'd be
at Goldie like in the current and you
344
00:22:14.000 --> 00:22:17.160
could barely float because the boards were
so thin and narrow. I remember the
345
00:22:17.200 --> 00:22:18.920
whole time like that, I don't
like this yet, like it's really hard
346
00:22:18.960 --> 00:22:22.000
to keep up. When Chidle got
skinnier and I got fatter, yeah,
347
00:22:22.720 --> 00:22:26.240
it was easy, easy to gravitate
towards a fish, you know, when
348
00:22:26.680 --> 00:22:30.720
everyone's riding these I was like,
I just want a flat, fast board,
349
00:22:30.440 --> 00:22:33.960
you know, and I got They
got on those retro fishes for a
350
00:22:33.000 --> 00:22:37.480
while and that was that, like
fun. Do you like the twenties with
351
00:22:37.839 --> 00:22:41.960
a sports? No? I don't
think I've ever write an IPA. No.
352
00:22:41.400 --> 00:22:45.119
No, I haven't trade one of
your twenties. I traded the one
353
00:22:45.160 --> 00:22:48.279
at the Waypool. I want to
say it was a round nose one.
354
00:22:48.519 --> 00:22:52.960
It was like round and like a
somatic or hydro shorts hydro shork. It's
355
00:22:52.960 --> 00:22:56.480
a hydro shark and I love that
board. So how many times do you
356
00:22:56.559 --> 00:22:59.880
have you gone to the ranch?
Uh? Three? Four? Really?
357
00:23:00.200 --> 00:23:03.720
Yeah? Once? Kelly invited me
once when at first was like just came
358
00:23:03.759 --> 00:23:07.000
out kind of thing, it was
still underground, and got a session with
359
00:23:07.119 --> 00:23:10.480
him and that that was pretty special. That was when the water was like
360
00:23:10.559 --> 00:23:15.640
brown and yeah, yeah and yeah, and then a couple of times the
361
00:23:15.680 --> 00:23:18.160
fire wis three times the fire you
have to just start making excuses. Yeah,
362
00:23:18.200 --> 00:23:22.240
it's pretty pretty, pretty fun,
pretty fun. We've got to go
363
00:23:22.279 --> 00:23:26.079
to the Dubai one. That's insane. It looks it's kind of the same,
364
00:23:26.160 --> 00:23:27.920
but maybe because it's better when the
party, I go, is it
365
00:23:29.000 --> 00:23:30.759
better and he goes, it's bigger, better, more carvy, looks like
366
00:23:30.880 --> 00:23:36.200
wider or something. Yeah, yeah, yeah, area, that's good.
367
00:23:36.240 --> 00:23:40.160
That'd be nice. Let's go,
let's go. I know we actually are
368
00:23:40.200 --> 00:23:42.319
going into the ranch next month for
our buddy, you know, Greg Browning.
369
00:23:44.240 --> 00:23:45.839
Greg Browning's thing we're gonna do.
We're gonna do a drive through the
370
00:23:45.960 --> 00:23:51.640
ranch with a bunch of old friends
and drive through. Reunion TV is going
371
00:23:51.720 --> 00:23:53.920
to come out and they want to
film a whole like show. I'm gonna
372
00:23:53.920 --> 00:24:00.400
write a tom and that I'm gonna
trying the new one Vader. She's going
373
00:24:00.440 --> 00:24:03.119
to get it before me, though, because her free board's coming next week.
374
00:24:03.480 --> 00:24:06.160
Yeah, that's I still have to
go by the office and like look
375
00:24:06.200 --> 00:24:10.039
at everything because I just haven't found
a board yet that I'm like stoked on
376
00:24:10.440 --> 00:24:12.319
I've had stuff like middlings and stuff
that I can get up on. Yeah.
377
00:24:12.359 --> 00:24:15.079
Yeah, but I wake surf so
much that like I don't know what
378
00:24:15.160 --> 00:24:18.319
to do on he wakes. Oh
you you're still ride in with front of
379
00:24:18.359 --> 00:24:22.799
these valuables. That's the kind of
similar philosophies. Does it make you super
380
00:24:22.880 --> 00:24:27.440
pumped to see Slater ride your ports? Of course? Yeah? Like I
381
00:24:29.400 --> 00:24:33.799
still pinching myself. Yeah. When
he like come like wanted to come on
382
00:24:33.839 --> 00:24:37.480
board with fire Water, I was
like kidding me, not, this is
383
00:24:37.799 --> 00:24:41.359
this is never gonna happen. I
was like, heard about you. Yeah
384
00:24:41.400 --> 00:24:45.359
it was. It must have been
the sickest thing ever happened. It was.
385
00:24:45.680 --> 00:24:48.119
Yeah. And then he was like, let's do a model, Like
386
00:24:48.640 --> 00:24:52.440
this is unreal because you were out, you were a He was like thinking,
387
00:24:52.559 --> 00:24:55.720
Okay, this guy's doing something that
I want to be a part of.
388
00:24:55.799 --> 00:24:57.839
That's that's why he's great, is
because he's always trying to get better
389
00:24:57.880 --> 00:25:00.960
and better. It's like current writing
skinboards and trying to find new stuff.
390
00:25:02.960 --> 00:25:06.759
And there's there's something in every bit
of design, even if it looks weird
391
00:25:06.920 --> 00:25:08.640
or whatever like this, there's something
to something to it that you can take
392
00:25:08.720 --> 00:25:14.640
and maybe blend with another is convinced. We put Blair Conklin on our podcast.
393
00:25:14.720 --> 00:25:15.759
He's like the best skinboarder in the
world. Have you seen him?
394
00:25:15.880 --> 00:25:22.240
I think I think that, Yeah, And he does catch surf with Coloney
395
00:25:22.279 --> 00:25:25.720
and he goes the future is definitely
skinboarding on waves. And I'm always like,
396
00:25:25.720 --> 00:25:27.000
all right, whatever you say.
And then when you watch them in
397
00:25:27.039 --> 00:25:30.640
the pool, he's doing airs over
the whole fucking wave and then doing snaps
398
00:25:30.640 --> 00:25:33.240
in the pocket that you can't do
on a surfboard. And in the words
399
00:25:33.319 --> 00:25:37.960
something Too, I was watching Tom
Ridney skin and and I actually even Rode
400
00:25:37.079 --> 00:25:41.799
wrote it like a few years back, and get something that that floor dead
401
00:25:41.839 --> 00:25:45.279
flat bottom, yeah, no rocker, and it just it just is so
402
00:25:45.440 --> 00:25:51.599
slippery on the water right when you
get in resistence. So there's something something
403
00:25:51.680 --> 00:25:56.160
tool that you could incorporate. I
don't know how to how you get this
404
00:25:56.519 --> 00:25:59.680
proper control, but you know,
no, but there's a lot to say
405
00:26:00.240 --> 00:26:03.720
to get stone or take mushrooms and
create I mean, like I was saying
406
00:26:03.720 --> 00:26:06.680
in the beginning, when I started
shaping it, it was you grind it
407
00:26:06.759 --> 00:26:10.160
away. It was like sculpting something. So every board was one of a
408
00:26:10.240 --> 00:26:11.759
kind it was no matter what,
there will never be the same thing ever
409
00:26:11.839 --> 00:26:15.119
again. And I love that part
of it. But as a pro surfer
410
00:26:15.400 --> 00:26:21.319
or even just a person that rips
balls completely is if you can get the
411
00:26:21.359 --> 00:26:25.519
same board twice, holy shit,
let's go because that's like you're saying,
412
00:26:25.599 --> 00:26:27.640
have you made a board? That's
the pinnacle he has and he can get
413
00:26:27.680 --> 00:26:32.920
it over and over and over.
That's and everyone and I can go on.
414
00:26:33.079 --> 00:26:36.000
Yeah, you can just saws one
up and you know the computer just
415
00:26:36.920 --> 00:26:41.160
leaders skyles probably twenty seven, twenty
eight, Yeah you have thirty eight.
416
00:26:41.279 --> 00:26:45.359
Yeah, my money one yeah,
one, sixty four, sixty five.
417
00:26:45.400 --> 00:26:48.400
Well, I don't even know what
you're going to I'm exactly the same heart
418
00:26:48.400 --> 00:26:51.720
and white as Kelly Bust. Yeah, So I can just kind of inter
419
00:26:51.839 --> 00:26:56.200
change my stuff with his. So
that's insane. Makes it easier to get
420
00:26:56.359 --> 00:26:59.519
a good board for him because I
got the same volume. Which do you
421
00:26:59.599 --> 00:27:02.039
do a couple of step ups for
him and stuff? What's he rating on
422
00:27:02.039 --> 00:27:04.759
the step ups? Really paid attention
to that, but he just kind of
423
00:27:04.960 --> 00:27:10.200
like a step up is pretty traditional
shape, you know, like that that
424
00:27:10.680 --> 00:27:12.960
kind of I haven't played too much
a step off, so played played with
425
00:27:14.039 --> 00:27:18.920
some big big waves like Maverick style
wave boards, like paddling with some of
426
00:27:18.000 --> 00:27:23.799
my v's trippy trippy theories you know
that seem to work, but performance big
427
00:27:23.839 --> 00:27:27.920
waves are pretty like. The only
difference I would kind of do is like
428
00:27:29.039 --> 00:27:32.519
the rounded nose or something instead of
the pointy nose. So I just kind
429
00:27:32.559 --> 00:27:36.640
of like, I like rounded noses
make more sense. It's tough making big
430
00:27:36.720 --> 00:27:40.200
boards, man, yeah, and
making them work in a windy sunset,
431
00:27:40.319 --> 00:27:42.759
and because you kind of want to. You want the board to sit in
432
00:27:42.799 --> 00:27:47.240
the water. You're not trying to
get all this lyft and like speed like
433
00:27:47.359 --> 00:27:49.880
a small wave board, which I
kind of specialize inside. So yeah,
434
00:27:51.920 --> 00:27:53.759
I could sit down as it go. M hm. Yeah, that's when
435
00:27:53.799 --> 00:27:57.240
we're talking about the v V.
You have to have on guns because you
436
00:27:57.279 --> 00:28:02.400
want the board to not skip out
and getting underneath it, so you want
437
00:28:02.440 --> 00:28:06.319
to almost slide the board down.
So call it. Have you married kids?
438
00:28:06.839 --> 00:28:11.599
I got a beautiful partner and a
little baby daughter is five months old.
439
00:28:11.000 --> 00:28:17.119
Way yeah, yeah, yeah,
that's awesome. Yeah, what's her
440
00:28:17.240 --> 00:28:21.720
name? Little Gypsy? Raye Gypsy. That's so cute. Way, so
441
00:28:21.720 --> 00:28:23.079
it must be tripping you out to
be gone right now. So yeah,
442
00:28:23.079 --> 00:28:26.359
you're going yeah, yeah, I'm
gonna go back this sweet coming way.
443
00:28:26.480 --> 00:28:32.160
Yeah yeah, definitely on that.
Have they started pushing her into waves yet?
444
00:28:32.559 --> 00:28:33.880
I know, yeah, she's still
pretty little, but she's in the
445
00:28:33.920 --> 00:28:38.640
swimming pool already. Okay, where
he lives is? I mean we're talking
446
00:28:38.880 --> 00:28:42.799
the cram double cram. I absolutely
is it boulders not the way up there?
447
00:28:44.160 --> 00:28:48.480
I always love that. And then
Ballana balla boulders there yeah, I
448
00:28:48.559 --> 00:28:52.720
love Yeah, it's a cool little
wife. And then uh, what's the
449
00:28:52.759 --> 00:28:56.759
one we take the ferry. It's
North Ballina, South ball Well. I
450
00:28:57.079 --> 00:29:02.079
ran over a shark there next especially
lots of sharks. Yeah, I was.
451
00:29:02.400 --> 00:29:04.160
It's on video. I'm pumping down
the line going right and it's a
452
00:29:04.279 --> 00:29:07.200
left like jetiwave and I got a
right and I was like cuckack. And
453
00:29:07.359 --> 00:29:11.119
in the video it shows me hit
and then I go like this and almost
454
00:29:11.160 --> 00:29:12.359
go over the handle bars. But
then I go like this and catch myself
455
00:29:12.480 --> 00:29:15.559
and I come in. I'm like
and I ran the shark. It was
456
00:29:15.640 --> 00:29:18.640
just it was not going to eat
me or it wasn't that scary, but
457
00:29:18.720 --> 00:29:21.960
it was like the size of the
couch and I fucking I saw it and
458
00:29:22.039 --> 00:29:23.839
went and he went through and I
hit him, and in the video hit
459
00:29:23.920 --> 00:29:26.720
it. I hit the back of
the shark, and in the video I
460
00:29:26.920 --> 00:29:33.079
stopped and almost fall but I caught
myself because I did not want to fall
461
00:29:33.160 --> 00:29:36.480
on the shark. And I'm like, that's not And you see me ride
462
00:29:36.519 --> 00:29:38.720
the wave and start paddling, like
going in on it, and you would
463
00:29:38.799 --> 00:29:41.359
never know in millionaires why I'm freaking
out or anything. And I hit the
464
00:29:41.400 --> 00:29:45.200
motherfucking shark. And that's how shark
it is. A motherfucker was underneath me.
465
00:29:45.319 --> 00:29:48.359
It was walking on my back.
That's that many of them. He's
466
00:29:48.400 --> 00:29:52.680
probably out there trying to find me. He's still like, who the fuck
467
00:29:52.799 --> 00:29:56.880
hit? Oh god, blindsided?
It's a shark. You guys had a
468
00:29:56.920 --> 00:30:00.440
pookey board to get chomped on the
other side of the JETI when I was
469
00:30:00.480 --> 00:30:03.640
there last time. It's yeah,
there's been serious ones had rose and chadle
470
00:30:03.720 --> 00:30:07.359
on yesterday and her best friend got
chopped by a shark, and reunion,
471
00:30:07.559 --> 00:30:11.559
which was thirteen. It was just
like, God, damn it, what
472
00:30:12.200 --> 00:30:17.160
that's bad? Reunions got Yeah,
she good, She asked me, and
473
00:30:17.240 --> 00:30:18.559
she's like, you haven't been back
in a long time, and I go,
474
00:30:18.720 --> 00:30:22.000
yeah, there's too many sharks,
and then she told that starting I'm
475
00:30:22.039 --> 00:30:23.720
like, that wasn't a funny joke, Like I was. I knew there
476
00:30:23.720 --> 00:30:26.559
were a lot of sharks. I
didn't know her friend got even Jesus Jones.
477
00:30:27.279 --> 00:30:30.880
But yeah, he definitely lives in
one of thost beautiful places in the
478
00:30:30.920 --> 00:30:36.039
world ever, Like obviously it's dreamy. Yeah, it's insane, it's a
479
00:30:36.319 --> 00:30:38.279
yeah. And the wives, the
Points, Great Point, Bikes, Rock
480
00:30:38.319 --> 00:30:41.960
Points everywhere? Are they cool with
weed? Now? Over there? To
481
00:30:42.319 --> 00:30:48.319
Byron, it's kind of just borderline
kept becoming legal, like they're talking about
482
00:30:48.400 --> 00:30:52.279
legalizing it and they're not really regulating
anymore. That's frezy sore about to open
483
00:30:52.599 --> 00:30:57.279
dispensaries and that bush weed there is
insane. This isn't a weed podcast,
484
00:30:57.359 --> 00:31:00.799
but let me just I mean,
is it's kind of a weird podcast.
485
00:31:00.839 --> 00:31:03.920
But yeah, Australia, but it's
not not a weed podcast. Yeah,
486
00:31:04.079 --> 00:31:07.160
I mean, if wh Chad's on
this podcast, I'd absolutely talk about weed
487
00:31:07.160 --> 00:31:11.039
the whole time. So people thinks
he smokes. He looks like the biggest
488
00:31:11.039 --> 00:31:14.920
stoner, but he doesn't even smoke
weed. It's insane. He's just naturally
489
00:31:15.039 --> 00:31:21.000
chill. He's naturally chill. Since
you do so many collabs with different insane
490
00:31:21.279 --> 00:31:26.400
legends, do you have like if
there was going to be somebody to be
491
00:31:26.559 --> 00:31:27.640
like, hey, like I want
to do another collabor I want to do
492
00:31:27.640 --> 00:31:33.319
a collab with you. Is there's
like somebody like I love this dude's style,
493
00:31:33.559 --> 00:31:37.400
like that, you'd be super hyped. It's of course, Yeah,
494
00:31:37.400 --> 00:31:41.480
I would like to work with more
team like young dudes and even just problems
495
00:31:41.519 --> 00:31:44.720
would be cool, you know,
like just you know, developed, helped
496
00:31:44.920 --> 00:31:48.720
someone's career developed with bars, you
know, get boards specific if you have
497
00:31:48.759 --> 00:31:52.759
any young kids at write them,
I mean obviously, but if there's kids
498
00:31:52.759 --> 00:31:55.920
allive with that ride by my boards. But yeah, we're looking to get
499
00:31:55.960 --> 00:31:57.839
some more tame riders now with with
with Greg and that at Dark House,
500
00:31:57.880 --> 00:32:01.400
that we're going to try and get
a sickle team going. Yeah, I
501
00:32:01.440 --> 00:32:05.759
mean honestly that that that's a rad
thing to see a kid developed with your
502
00:32:05.799 --> 00:32:07.559
boards. Yeah, I mean I
was the Fireway team. I ride my
503
00:32:07.640 --> 00:32:13.319
boards irregularly, you know. So
yeah, and obviously Kelly was not much
504
00:32:13.359 --> 00:32:15.759
better team, right, you know, I mean Kelly is the best in
505
00:32:15.839 --> 00:32:19.519
the world. Yeah, but it
is cool to see like a young up
506
00:32:19.559 --> 00:32:21.920
and coming kid like a Griff or
one of those kids. Yeah, be
507
00:32:21.960 --> 00:32:24.519
sick to get one of the young
guys. Yeah, I mean on those
508
00:32:24.599 --> 00:32:29.960
young all the same so like left
of center, like they're not like contest
509
00:32:30.000 --> 00:32:35.880
boards, they're kind of like just
it's true. Yeah, it's kind of
510
00:32:35.920 --> 00:32:39.640
like a lot of guys are competing. So I can still shape normal boards.
511
00:32:39.640 --> 00:32:44.160
I do normal shopboards, like I'll
be Kelly normal short boards, and
512
00:32:44.319 --> 00:32:47.759
Kelly raids your boards in contest.
He doesn't give He's like he rips on
513
00:32:47.839 --> 00:32:54.440
those things. And then uh,
what about does does a FireWire and and
514
00:32:55.279 --> 00:33:00.400
Dark Arts and all those guys work
together. I don't understand it's at they're
515
00:33:00.400 --> 00:33:02.920
separate businesses, but you're allowed to
shape for all of them. Ah yeah
516
00:33:04.119 --> 00:33:07.480
yeah. It's just recent that I've
been able to have the ability to work
517
00:33:07.519 --> 00:33:10.640
outside of the Firewa I think as
well. So they're obviously fire Wise my
518
00:33:10.839 --> 00:33:15.720
main like business partner, like they've
been. We've worked together for eleven or
519
00:33:15.759 --> 00:33:22.680
twelve years now. And Kelly's brand
is it's basically the same thing Fireware and
520
00:33:23.079 --> 00:33:30.079
Designs. It's the same, just
different brands within the FireWire construction and is
521
00:33:30.160 --> 00:33:34.480
kind of confusing. Yeah, Slater
designs and firewell, I thought they're different
522
00:33:34.599 --> 00:33:37.440
but the same kind of Yeah,
so the dark Arts thing is new,
523
00:33:37.519 --> 00:33:40.759
you know, and that's that's a
new relationship. I'm able to work outside
524
00:33:40.799 --> 00:33:46.680
of that ing that. Like the
materials of firewall to dark Arts are completely
525
00:33:46.759 --> 00:33:50.400
different, right, similar, No, they're not that different. Different.
526
00:33:50.480 --> 00:33:54.480
They're both to EPs cause EPs foam
and the PS six flaen that that's like
527
00:33:54.799 --> 00:34:00.960
expanded polysty foam. Okay, so
people understand what diophim is out there and
528
00:34:00.039 --> 00:34:05.559
like it's just just a more futuristic, later tougher So yeah, it's just
529
00:34:05.640 --> 00:34:09.400
a it's a lighter foam basically,
it can be more durable. It comes
530
00:34:09.440 --> 00:34:14.079
in different grades of weight, and
then the wrapping is different. That's the
531
00:34:14.159 --> 00:34:16.559
only thing. Yeah, Yeah,
the Dark Hearts are just wrapped in a
532
00:34:16.599 --> 00:34:23.000
carbon cloth and fire I have a
variety of bill They have a basalt lamination
533
00:34:23.199 --> 00:34:28.719
basalt fiber, which is similar to
carbon but a little different. It's you
534
00:34:28.840 --> 00:34:32.159
prefer well, it's a bit political, I know, I wanted to put
535
00:34:32.199 --> 00:34:35.360
you out there on that. I
like them all. They all have their
536
00:34:35.519 --> 00:34:38.440
strong points, you know, like
they they all it's just like a surfboard
537
00:34:38.519 --> 00:34:43.800
shape. They all have it.
Choppy wave John John on that red board
538
00:34:44.079 --> 00:34:47.400
and that's a Pazel Farewell or I
mean, excuse me, dark Hearts I
539
00:34:47.519 --> 00:34:54.840
believe, Yeah he does. Then
Philip World, that's like the biggest endorsement
540
00:34:54.920 --> 00:34:58.519
ever. Yeah, you can't get
much better than that. What would be
541
00:34:58.599 --> 00:35:01.199
the difference in like perform if you
were to take out like a carbon fiber
542
00:35:01.280 --> 00:35:07.559
board, for I would say the
board, Yeah, the carbon is stiffer,
543
00:35:07.920 --> 00:35:10.719
it feels it's water and stiffer,
so it's really rigid feeling, so
544
00:35:10.960 --> 00:35:15.719
it's a it's a different feeling.
And then the far was generally more flexy,
545
00:35:15.400 --> 00:35:20.599
like bendy, springy kind of feeling
boards. So yeah, that would
546
00:35:20.639 --> 00:35:22.760
be the biggest point of different.
Yeah, it's kind of trippy. The
547
00:35:22.760 --> 00:35:25.199
black ones, the dark Arts don't
really dent that much. It's trippy even
548
00:35:25.480 --> 00:35:29.400
because when I ride normal boards,
I squished the hell out of them,
549
00:35:29.840 --> 00:35:31.880
and that one I still it still
looks like it's new. It's insane.
550
00:35:32.079 --> 00:35:37.440
No, they're incredibly strong. That
will last long time. Lewis Hamilton broke
551
00:35:37.559 --> 00:35:42.039
one of my boards up pipe and
I thought that was ironic because like he's
552
00:35:42.039 --> 00:35:45.480
a Formula one guy those boards never
break. And he broke my fucking board.
553
00:35:45.559 --> 00:35:47.719
He se pot he surfed like big
pipe too, kyboard took them out.
554
00:35:47.840 --> 00:35:52.360
He's smacked kind of charges, he
charges. Yeah, he's not scared
555
00:35:52.360 --> 00:35:55.719
of anything. But yeah, that's
son with Ferrari. He's signed with Ferrari.
556
00:35:55.880 --> 00:36:00.239
That's pretty sick. Love that.
Yeah, we're talking f one now,
557
00:36:00.440 --> 00:36:04.559
Yeah, I got that. Yeah, but it is kind of what
558
00:36:04.679 --> 00:36:07.440
we're talking about. The dark Arts
is exactly what they use for fucking Formula
559
00:36:07.519 --> 00:36:12.159
one. Yeah, they build a
Formulae car is built much like a ceph
560
00:36:12.199 --> 00:36:15.639
board and they just lay up the
cloth and sculpt it to mike the wings
561
00:36:15.719 --> 00:36:19.960
and all that of the Formula one
causally. Yeah, I race prone paddle
562
00:36:20.000 --> 00:36:23.280
boards. So the board that I'm
currently racing is a carbon fiber and it's
563
00:36:23.360 --> 00:36:27.320
crazy how like I've knocked that thing. It's like a twelve foot board.
564
00:36:27.320 --> 00:36:30.760
It's really hard to not bump it
into things. I've cracked that thing on
565
00:36:30.920 --> 00:36:34.880
walls on my car and it like
doesn't ping, just makes a ping the
566
00:36:35.000 --> 00:36:37.880
sound. And another sports she does. She's in the beach what they call
567
00:36:37.960 --> 00:36:44.519
the Klubbies clubbies. The beach life
where he's from is so cool. Everyone
568
00:36:44.599 --> 00:36:47.679
comes together and races and starts against
each other, competes like. It's so
569
00:36:47.840 --> 00:36:52.800
different than California culture, and they
try to do little clubbies here, but
570
00:36:52.880 --> 00:36:55.679
it's just not the same. I
mean, Fick Rostovich, he's the best
571
00:36:55.719 --> 00:37:00.360
body surfer in the world. Have
you ever seen that? Yeah, it's
572
00:37:00.400 --> 00:37:02.559
insane. He has this concave chest
and he's like, gets out old.
573
00:37:02.960 --> 00:37:06.159
I mean, it's insane. And
he got and I asked him. Were
574
00:37:06.199 --> 00:37:09.079
in Cabo and he did it.
Cabo waves are so mushy and he's flying
575
00:37:09.119 --> 00:37:12.920
out of the water and I'm like, dude, I'm good at bodysurfing,
576
00:37:12.960 --> 00:37:15.000
like I take a lot of pride
in it. And I was like,
577
00:37:15.159 --> 00:37:16.039
Rosto, what the fuck is going
on? He goes, Oh, I
578
00:37:16.119 --> 00:37:20.800
did it at Toby's like the races
when we were kids. He's oh,
579
00:37:21.159 --> 00:37:27.800
he would he would get these guys
would run, swim paddle, it's like
580
00:37:27.800 --> 00:37:30.599
a triathlon. Yeah, and Rostovich
one. But you know, David Rossovich
581
00:37:30.639 --> 00:37:34.599
amazing surfer. But he's the best
body server I ever seen in my life.
582
00:37:34.960 --> 00:37:37.079
And I asked him, I'm like, how the fuck did you get
583
00:37:37.119 --> 00:37:39.000
that good? And he goes,
oh, my, every weekend we'd have
584
00:37:39.000 --> 00:37:42.519
to race each other and stuff,
and the only way I'd win is because
585
00:37:42.519 --> 00:37:45.440
I could bodysyrp better than everybody.
So he would catch away from the outside
586
00:37:45.440 --> 00:37:49.360
and be in like fiftieth place and
be like shoot and just fly by him
587
00:37:49.400 --> 00:37:52.000
on one wave and it take them
like twenty waves to get in. And
588
00:37:52.280 --> 00:37:55.239
I was like, that's kind of
weird that he's hot. Dolphin. You
589
00:37:55.280 --> 00:37:59.400
see him quite a bit. Yeah, yeah, he lives Bondy a lot
590
00:37:59.559 --> 00:38:02.079
yea the lead ship. And then
Margo's back out there, see that ship.
591
00:38:02.199 --> 00:38:07.000
Yeah, that makes me so happy. It makes me fee Bill Beard.
592
00:38:07.159 --> 00:38:10.360
Yeah, Margo is one of my
favorite people to ever live. Love
593
00:38:10.440 --> 00:38:15.840
him so cool. He's doing this. We're talking about a Bill Bong surfer
594
00:38:15.920 --> 00:38:20.039
that was basically like the same thing
I did in America. For Bill Bong,
595
00:38:20.079 --> 00:38:22.960
we were pretty surfers, make surfing
movies and stuff, and he was
596
00:38:22.039 --> 00:38:24.599
like my hero. I mean,
he's a couple of three years older than
597
00:38:24.639 --> 00:38:28.480
me, but he stopped surfing for
a long time, kind of like you
598
00:38:29.280 --> 00:38:34.239
pretty similar actually like six years and
and he did that and then now he
599
00:38:34.599 --> 00:38:37.280
just started surfing again and he's doing
videos and it's so inspiring for me.
600
00:38:37.400 --> 00:38:39.639
Even warno. I saw a video
the other day surfing. I was like,
601
00:38:39.760 --> 00:38:45.960
damn, I gotta start surfing again. But yeah, it's as everyone
602
00:38:45.079 --> 00:38:49.519
knows out there, surfing is so
physical that if you have an injury and
603
00:38:49.559 --> 00:38:52.320
then you get older, and I
have three injuries right now, and I'm
604
00:38:52.679 --> 00:38:54.039
tired of making excuses. So yeah, man, I had I had a
605
00:38:54.079 --> 00:38:59.079
bad injury. A couple of ives
out for two years with me two years.
606
00:39:00.559 --> 00:39:04.639
No, just my cottage is worn
out in the behind my kneecap.
607
00:39:05.119 --> 00:39:07.920
Yeah, it's fixed now. It's
good. But it took a long time
608
00:39:07.119 --> 00:39:12.599
and surgery, stem cells and all
sorts of you're a way around forty two
609
00:39:12.960 --> 00:39:15.880
Okay, forty two, there's still
a baby. Yeah, but you're good
610
00:39:15.960 --> 00:39:19.159
now you surf. Yeah, yeah, I still have to like keep keep
611
00:39:19.760 --> 00:39:22.679
give it some love, you know. I to work out and did my
612
00:39:22.760 --> 00:39:24.119
squats and just yoga and all that
kind of. I told her, you
613
00:39:24.159 --> 00:39:30.199
can't eat pizza after forty you just
can't. Our bodies are alright. Everything
614
00:39:30.320 --> 00:39:32.599
is like you got to just stop
stop with his nonsense. Like we had.
615
00:39:32.800 --> 00:39:36.920
We had Jersey mics yesterday and a
pizza and now I feel like I
616
00:39:37.000 --> 00:39:42.559
seriously gained thirty pounds and it won't
go anywhere. Like You're like, what
617
00:39:42.800 --> 00:39:47.239
the fuck is happening? She's skinnier. She's like, it's like Colonnie.
618
00:39:47.280 --> 00:39:52.840
Do you see Colonnie rob his ship? He's so jacked and he eats.
619
00:39:52.920 --> 00:39:55.880
He showed us a picture of his
breakfast yesterday on the thread and it's Krispy
620
00:39:55.960 --> 00:40:00.679
creams and coffee and I'm like,
of course right, And he's the genetics.
621
00:40:00.760 --> 00:40:06.239
Yeah, you're Asian, You're lucky. Shout out to Tomo the Asian
622
00:40:06.400 --> 00:40:13.400
Shaver. But it's so again Thompson, Yeah, last, okay. I
623
00:40:13.519 --> 00:40:15.679
just love Australians always put oh at
the end. It's like Dan Oh and
624
00:40:16.280 --> 00:40:22.159
Jimmy Oh, and you know Benjo
And I didn't even realize that your name
625
00:40:22.239 --> 00:40:27.159
is tom Oh like that. I
just it's just the spelling. I just
626
00:40:27.480 --> 00:40:30.880
lost the H for the brand size. It's just easier for people it's pronounced,
627
00:40:30.880 --> 00:40:36.159
but everyone still screws it up.
And I called you the Japanese.
628
00:40:36.639 --> 00:40:40.000
Now it's gonna be Tomo Tomo.
Yeah, and Kelly's the one that always
629
00:40:40.039 --> 00:40:43.599
corrects people, so he's going to
really go after that. Yeah, he'll
630
00:40:44.639 --> 00:40:46.960
you know that about Kelly? You
text him and you forget to do some
631
00:40:47.119 --> 00:40:52.119
kind of spelling or stop or something. Really, so are you trying to
632
00:40:52.159 --> 00:40:53.360
tell me something here? I don't
get it. And you're like, God
633
00:40:53.440 --> 00:40:55.800
damn it, you're a dick.
I don't know how. He types like
634
00:40:55.880 --> 00:40:59.920
quit like right, like a novel, and it'll be all perfectly punctualy.
635
00:41:00.079 --> 00:41:06.159
What the hell. He's a wizard
and you know it's funny. I cook
636
00:41:06.320 --> 00:41:09.639
like that's my thing, and he'll
send me videos of different things that he's
637
00:41:09.679 --> 00:41:13.840
doing cooking now because now he's like, okay, now it's a cooking battle.
638
00:41:13.960 --> 00:41:16.519
Like I'm like, yeah, no, he's really eggs and so am
639
00:41:16.519 --> 00:41:22.000
I Because I was explaining to him
that chef hats, those big toll ones,
640
00:41:22.039 --> 00:41:24.239
they have plats and every pleat is
how you can cook an egg.
641
00:41:24.519 --> 00:41:28.679
That's what that's what those mean.
So a lot of the head chefs,
642
00:41:28.719 --> 00:41:31.079
they're all French. That's a French
thing. All of those mean different ways
643
00:41:31.119 --> 00:41:34.599
to perfect an egg, right.
So I told it to Kelly and he's
644
00:41:34.760 --> 00:41:37.159
like, oh, by the way, look at this fucking ship. And
645
00:41:37.159 --> 00:41:38.880
he'll send a video of like a
different way he did his eggs, and
646
00:41:38.920 --> 00:41:42.039
he's getting better. I'm like dude, I'm gonna have to get one of
647
00:41:42.039 --> 00:41:45.039
those fucking hats down, like he's
gonna have a chef hat and be like,
648
00:41:45.079 --> 00:41:45.719
oh, by the way, I'm
the best chef in the world.
649
00:41:45.800 --> 00:41:51.519
I'm like, I can't do anything
golfing before him. I got him into
650
00:41:51.559 --> 00:41:52.920
golf and he's now he's better than
me. I'm like, that's fun.
651
00:41:53.440 --> 00:41:59.480
Like whatever, guy, I'm just
glad that he actually right. He never
652
00:41:59.559 --> 00:42:01.159
responds right away, and he was
with me this morning. I go,
653
00:42:01.840 --> 00:42:07.000
hey, I got tomo on,
Tomo, I got tomo on, and
654
00:42:07.199 --> 00:42:09.960
he goes uh instantly right away,
and he just had all this stuff insight,
655
00:42:10.039 --> 00:42:14.920
because that means he if Kelly's world
because he's all about his phone.
656
00:42:14.960 --> 00:42:16.800
If he text, that means he
cares like about me and you. So
657
00:42:17.280 --> 00:42:24.519
shout out to Kelly for always being
with all this little guys sticking the Copey
658
00:42:24.599 --> 00:42:28.519
fucking wins this year. Be still
sick. I mean, this guy's had
659
00:42:28.599 --> 00:42:31.519
hip surgery and he was surfing the
pool with me and he's surfing just as
660
00:42:31.559 --> 00:42:37.320
good. It's creepy. He's he's
well. We were with him the week
661
00:42:37.400 --> 00:42:39.360
before he got the surgery and he
was killing it. And then after the
662
00:42:39.440 --> 00:42:42.960
session I go. He goes,
oh, I'm getting surgery in a few
663
00:42:43.039 --> 00:42:45.119
days, and I'm like, it
doesn't look like you're hurting. He's like,
664
00:42:45.199 --> 00:42:46.639
I'm in so much fucking pain.
And I'm like, well, then
665
00:42:46.679 --> 00:42:50.400
why are you surfing so hard?
Like I think it was because he knew
666
00:42:50.400 --> 00:42:53.360
he was getting the surgery, but
he wouldn't let Gabriel get the first wave
667
00:42:53.400 --> 00:42:55.920
at his wait pole. That's for
damn sure. Right in Dubai, he's
668
00:42:55.920 --> 00:42:58.920
like, hold on, I just
got surgery, but fuck you guys.
669
00:43:00.719 --> 00:43:04.519
Of course you have to pull rank
on that total. It's gonna be hard
670
00:43:04.559 --> 00:43:07.719
for him to let the rains go. It's crazy, never gonna. He
671
00:43:07.880 --> 00:43:08.800
was here in our podcast and I
said, hey, are you going to
672
00:43:08.880 --> 00:43:14.239
do the tour again? He goes, of course, right ten years ago
673
00:43:14.239 --> 00:43:15.159
I asked him and he's like,
I don't know, man, I think
674
00:43:15.199 --> 00:43:17.599
I'm done. And now ten years
later he's like, of course I'm doing
675
00:43:17.639 --> 00:43:22.119
the tour. I was like,
this motherfucker's changing the way. He's not
676
00:43:22.320 --> 00:43:25.960
down anywhere. They're gonna have to
drag you, especially because so many people
677
00:43:27.440 --> 00:43:30.599
like Chris and all these people a
dropping they don't keep him. It's a
678
00:43:30.679 --> 00:43:32.679
crazy time and surfing right now,
Yeah, for all of it. Do
679
00:43:32.719 --> 00:43:36.079
you ever go to some of the
comps and watch live? Yeah? I
680
00:43:36.239 --> 00:43:38.760
was did a lot of the comps
with Stu Kennedy when he was on tour.
681
00:43:38.960 --> 00:43:43.800
He was riding my boards. Yeah
yeah, so we used to do
682
00:43:44.039 --> 00:43:45.960
a lot of the events with him. Yeah, it's insane, you know.
683
00:43:46.039 --> 00:43:52.360
That's the compert. Adam Melling no, NOx, Yeah Melling is from
684
00:43:52.599 --> 00:43:57.840
those two guys are our actual w
c T guys that came from Lenox,
685
00:43:57.920 --> 00:44:01.960
right, yes, Adams Good he
was like make Fanny's little brother that guy.
686
00:44:02.199 --> 00:44:08.559
Yeah. Are they still out there
just killing elenx and stuff? Local
687
00:44:08.599 --> 00:44:14.519
boys aren't going anywhere, just cruising
like families and yeah the r s L.
688
00:44:14.679 --> 00:44:20.039
Yeah, dude, the best thing
about these guys town You've probably never
689
00:44:20.079 --> 00:44:23.119
been in Australia. Every town,
every town has a point break, a
690
00:44:23.239 --> 00:44:28.599
golf course, a thing called the
RSL club, bowling club, bowling club
691
00:44:28.760 --> 00:44:35.880
and own balls you know, but
bes and just everybody super friendly. It's
692
00:44:36.000 --> 00:44:44.320
so you can bet on horses at
the at the at the like restaurant too
693
00:44:44.519 --> 00:44:52.639
well, the dish lickers, the
dogs, totally, the pony. Everything
694
00:44:52.679 --> 00:44:55.880
about us is the ship and it
stays the same. I hope I'm not
695
00:44:55.960 --> 00:45:00.679
blowing it up because it's it's literally
my favorite thing to go to each town
696
00:45:00.840 --> 00:45:04.639
and golf. I love golf and
all the all the old mates are fucking
697
00:45:05.000 --> 00:45:08.159
drinking vbes and then going and they
all pull carts because that's their exercise.
698
00:45:08.239 --> 00:45:15.480
And it's so beautiful everywhere. I
like, Jerry gone down that yeah goodbye,
699
00:45:16.519 --> 00:45:21.440
Yeah, such good wyes down I
love down there. Yeah, it's
700
00:45:21.480 --> 00:45:25.119
good. Wives all as totally lighted
with good stuff. And so you're gonna
701
00:45:27.920 --> 00:45:32.920
don't don't come to don't come just
kiddles and see how that works out.
702
00:45:35.119 --> 00:45:37.440
Are you going for more kids or
do you think you're gonna stop but just
703
00:45:37.480 --> 00:45:39.599
your baby girl. I don't know. I haven't fulfilled that far ahead.
704
00:45:39.679 --> 00:45:44.800
But one we're just in the in
the moment with a little girl that's ready.
705
00:45:44.960 --> 00:45:45.880
They've got to be exciting. I
don't have any kids yet, but
706
00:45:46.320 --> 00:45:51.559
it's got to be exciting. Yeah, it's yeah, it's a whole like
707
00:45:51.679 --> 00:45:53.320
it's a new lease on life too. It's like everything's fresh again. You
708
00:45:53.400 --> 00:45:58.119
get to live her. Yeah,
well yeah, you just look a life
709
00:45:58.119 --> 00:46:00.400
a little different when you have kids, you know. So her first name
710
00:46:00.440 --> 00:46:04.800
is gypsy gypsy g y p s
e A like the sea ocean gypsy c
711
00:46:05.039 --> 00:46:09.360
that gypsy. Yeah, yeah,
that's cool. And is there a way
712
00:46:09.440 --> 00:46:14.280
from us? Yeah, she's Australian
partner. Sorry, like you need to
713
00:46:14.320 --> 00:46:17.559
be married that I did that it
didn't work, so weird, weird,
714
00:46:17.639 --> 00:46:22.519
It's just weird. The only thing
that's really a marriage is is children.
715
00:46:22.880 --> 00:46:28.320
That's a marriage. And tax breaks, tax breakers. Yeah, well yeah,
716
00:46:28.360 --> 00:46:30.239
I was gonna say something that you
were talking about like Australian culture.
717
00:46:31.159 --> 00:46:37.039
There could be no difference, But
is there any difference between Australians and like
718
00:46:37.119 --> 00:46:40.840
American surfers that you've noticed in like
what boards they tend to gravitate towards?
719
00:46:43.199 --> 00:46:46.360
Sort of? I think America is
more open minded the general they've they've ride
720
00:46:46.400 --> 00:46:52.519
more alternative equipment. Here. Australia
is full on squashed out shortboard thrust.
721
00:46:52.559 --> 00:46:55.840
So many people ride you know,
those kind of boards because the waves are
722
00:46:55.960 --> 00:47:00.800
generally really good. Better too.
You gotta expect in that the guys are
723
00:47:00.880 --> 00:47:04.679
on rips, you know rips in
Australia. Yeah, everything and not just
724
00:47:04.880 --> 00:47:07.039
like say, guys are cooks here, but the level is way lower.
725
00:47:07.360 --> 00:47:10.920
You go to any spot in Australia
and half the people are fucking treading.
726
00:47:12.000 --> 00:47:15.960
Yeah, like he is getting like
everyrun's ripping. Yeah, and you're like,
727
00:47:16.199 --> 00:47:21.280
yeah getting. Kids are just busting
fans in every way. I can
728
00:47:21.320 --> 00:47:23.440
see why. That's the thing.
The little kids too, Yeah, and
729
00:47:23.559 --> 00:47:28.960
they're little fuckers. Man, catchy
waves, tough stuff. That's why Chewy
730
00:47:29.079 --> 00:47:30.239
was saying that, because Chewy's from
here and he's with Cooks all day and
731
00:47:30.280 --> 00:47:32.719
then he goes hangs out with these
guys and they actually know what they're doing.
732
00:47:34.239 --> 00:47:37.840
Damn he catch all the waves.
That's funny. Chew, doesn't he
733
00:47:38.239 --> 00:47:43.440
cheer'son man, he must just love
Chew. He's my favorite, great man,
734
00:47:43.639 --> 00:47:46.599
great dude. He's a golfer,
rips really good saying. Do you
735
00:47:46.679 --> 00:47:50.280
ever win golf? Yeah, a
little bit. I'm not that great.
736
00:47:50.320 --> 00:47:52.760
I don't do it as much as
I would like to, but I've just
737
00:47:52.880 --> 00:47:55.880
kind of recently took it back up
again, so I'll get out there once
738
00:47:55.920 --> 00:48:00.679
a week. They're one right there
in Lennox two Balana, Yeah, there's
739
00:48:00.719 --> 00:48:04.320
a good course and Balan. Yeah. I'm gonna get in the drive drive
740
00:48:04.440 --> 00:48:07.480
range. My drives are just hopeless. Everything else I can kind of short
741
00:48:07.519 --> 00:48:12.840
game is not too bad. But
my driving just I can just slice it
742
00:48:12.960 --> 00:48:15.800
like the best of them. Man, Like I almost need to stand like
743
00:48:15.960 --> 00:48:19.320
sideways and just hit off and I'll
just go straight every time. Like I'm
744
00:48:19.320 --> 00:48:24.480
that consistent with a slide. I
probably probably need some coaching. Kelly is
745
00:48:24.519 --> 00:48:28.119
one of those people that if you
ask for help, he's the might need
746
00:48:28.199 --> 00:48:31.760
to make my own golf club with
Like I just till the you start engineering,
747
00:48:31.840 --> 00:48:36.880
you're on just non slicing, just
to counteract the slide. Kelly,
748
00:48:36.880 --> 00:48:40.880
I can't shape your boards. I
started a golf company for the non slicers.
749
00:48:43.719 --> 00:48:45.599
Well, dude, I'm so grateful
to have you on the party.
750
00:48:45.679 --> 00:48:49.199
That was fun. I think now
we're going me and her are both going
751
00:48:49.239 --> 00:48:51.480
to get one of the new models, just so you can. I think
752
00:48:51.519 --> 00:48:54.679
we have to. Yeah, it
sounds fun. Check it out easier,
753
00:48:55.199 --> 00:48:58.880
that's the main thing. Yeah,
look at it. Yeah, I'm don
754
00:48:59.480 --> 00:49:01.519
go grab it it real quick.
Yeah yeah. Oh so it does have
755
00:49:01.639 --> 00:49:06.039
the nose, so this is wow. Look at that. So this is
756
00:49:06.119 --> 00:49:09.360
exactly what we're talking about. Look
at the V yep. So it's a
757
00:49:09.480 --> 00:49:13.599
V basically is kind of like a
double concave right for the most part.
758
00:49:13.599 --> 00:49:16.760
It's like concave concave with the stringer. When you shape surfboards, you have
759
00:49:16.840 --> 00:49:21.000
to keep taking stringers down, especially
if you do big concaves, so you're
760
00:49:21.039 --> 00:49:22.599
kind of just leaving it. This
goes all the way the nose. It's
761
00:49:22.880 --> 00:49:30.320
tip to tip. It's a yeah, massive spine three nugget. Yeah,
762
00:49:30.360 --> 00:49:34.000
it's a little This is your actual
board that you're read. Yeah, yeah,
763
00:49:34.039 --> 00:49:36.960
that's my size. Like you can
write them so much shorter without that
764
00:49:37.400 --> 00:49:39.039
extra nose area, you know,
and forefin is the way to go with
765
00:49:39.119 --> 00:49:43.840
this, right obviously. Yeah,
yeah, I don't write thrusts anymore because
766
00:49:43.880 --> 00:49:45.880
that jack my knee up. So
I got a little channel. The quad's
767
00:49:45.960 --> 00:49:50.360
perfect or a twin fin. It's
fun too, but yeah, it's a
768
00:49:50.400 --> 00:49:53.159
pretty techy little shape that hangs so
late too. It's crazy. Here,
769
00:49:53.239 --> 00:49:57.599
come over here, Annie, check
this thing out. This is probably too
770
00:49:57.639 --> 00:50:01.039
small for you, but still because
what again he said, twenty six seven
771
00:50:01.119 --> 00:50:05.639
leader, twenty seven. How many
leaders are you? Twenty seven, twenty
772
00:50:05.679 --> 00:50:07.400
seven, twenty seven? Yep,
yeah, but it's quite a narrow too.
773
00:50:07.440 --> 00:50:12.440
It's not wide, it's only eighteen
and five eights. Like you can
774
00:50:12.480 --> 00:50:15.320
make these boards super narrow because they're
so rectangular. Just be fun at the
775
00:50:15.400 --> 00:50:20.400
ranch or the pump springs one too, holy a little. Yeah, it's
776
00:50:20.400 --> 00:50:23.079
like skater scale. It feels like
skateboarding on the ocean. It's or snowboarding
777
00:50:23.119 --> 00:50:25.400
on the ocean. It really is
this, like you were saying, for
778
00:50:25.440 --> 00:50:30.440
a week boarding kidding, you can
eat even smiler one for a week boarding.
779
00:50:30.800 --> 00:50:35.079
Yeah, it kind of feels like
a different sport than regular surfing.
780
00:50:35.159 --> 00:50:38.480
It's like riding that board, you're
almost like you just approached the wave more
781
00:50:38.760 --> 00:50:45.239
like playful like Little Ali's and like
it's just flies a lot croperly, kind
782
00:50:45.280 --> 00:50:49.760
of like the bea. The V
is fine. So that's that's what we
783
00:50:49.840 --> 00:50:52.519
talked about earlier. It's basically and
then if it wasn't like this, it
784
00:50:52.559 --> 00:50:55.880
would be concain So this whole thing
would be a scoop. So it'd actually
785
00:50:55.960 --> 00:51:00.840
be yeah yeah yeah, So,
I mean, the rectangular nature of the
786
00:51:00.880 --> 00:51:05.719
board makes it really stable as well, so when you're paddling or you're standing
787
00:51:05.760 --> 00:51:07.519
on it, it's just it's got
a lot of stability. But V will
788
00:51:07.679 --> 00:51:13.039
like just go with you into into
a turn. You just sure basically put
789
00:51:13.079 --> 00:51:15.760
pressure on your toes and the thing
will just be like roll under the rail
790
00:51:15.360 --> 00:51:21.119
and then you start surf surfing off
these concave surfaces between the string and the
791
00:51:21.239 --> 00:51:23.559
rail. Yeah, so it just
kind of loads up and you just get
792
00:51:23.599 --> 00:51:29.559
these instantaneous top to bottom like responsiveness. That's so cool. Yeah, you
793
00:51:30.599 --> 00:51:34.679
fins Kelly's fans. Yeah, Kelly's
makes the best fins, like like like
794
00:51:34.760 --> 00:51:37.000
he's in dolphins. He's got to
give you guys an idea. What a
795
00:51:37.079 --> 00:51:42.719
fin kind of represents is the width
and the bottom and then narrowness on the
796
00:51:42.760 --> 00:51:45.960
top can do drive with a little
loose so you get a lot of drive
797
00:51:45.039 --> 00:51:47.760
off the bottom, but then you
can turns and slide the tail and different
798
00:51:47.800 --> 00:51:52.320
things. I really like vacuum fins. They so there's fins that they have
799
00:51:53.280 --> 00:51:58.320
this way and for me, after
two hundred pounds, they hold in.
800
00:51:58.480 --> 00:52:00.199
You can rate them and it's big
way. It's the same theory as the
801
00:52:00.239 --> 00:52:04.960
bottoms, that you've got a concave
surface to leverage off. So these little
802
00:52:05.000 --> 00:52:08.519
guys in the back or just straight
now, yeah, they're Kelly's squads.
803
00:52:08.880 --> 00:52:15.400
They're sick. They're super l like
barrels. Yeah, that's a little quad
804
00:52:15.760 --> 00:52:20.239
quad channel on the back to yeah, No, it's it's a tech hole.
805
00:52:20.480 --> 00:52:23.239
I mean, like you get yeah, your little channel. No,
806
00:52:23.400 --> 00:52:29.800
no, it's made here starkhass Is
in San Diego. Yeah, yeah,
807
00:52:29.920 --> 00:52:32.440
this is definitely gonna be the one
we get. Yeah, I'm so in
808
00:52:32.639 --> 00:52:37.199
that thing looks so fun. A
little little Ferrari colors too. I like
809
00:52:37.280 --> 00:52:42.400
this color. Yeah, it's going
for that vibe. Just a little race
810
00:52:42.480 --> 00:52:45.440
car. Yeah. And there's like
what we were talking about earlier. See
811
00:52:45.480 --> 00:52:47.559
how the like the nose on the
surfboard are like a regular shortboard would keep
812
00:52:47.599 --> 00:52:52.039
going for another like yeah, and
it's like you don't really need that.
813
00:52:52.159 --> 00:52:54.119
Well, it's just swingway, you
know, with that particular shape. It's
814
00:52:54.199 --> 00:52:59.039
so short. You don't have any
swingweight with that kind of shape. You
815
00:52:59.119 --> 00:53:02.320
know, it's not mean in a
difference, And I do it. You
816
00:53:02.360 --> 00:53:06.440
can keep, yeah you can,
and you can stand right back there won't
817
00:53:06.519 --> 00:53:07.960
stall, you know, you can
get fit right on the tail. So
818
00:53:08.119 --> 00:53:13.039
trippy and yeah, yeah, thirty
years ago, Current would have lost his
819
00:53:13.280 --> 00:53:16.519
ship. In the Current Karen was
one of the first to ride one of
820
00:53:16.559 --> 00:53:20.679
these backs, like ten years ago
at the Ringcom Classic. I built him
821
00:53:20.679 --> 00:53:24.519
when those five to one it was
like twenty two leaders or something ridiculous model
822
00:53:24.599 --> 00:53:29.280
and he wrote it and he like
shred he beat Reynolds and Dane Reynolds in
823
00:53:29.320 --> 00:53:32.280
the heat and when to day and
was like the man, I mean currents
824
00:53:32.280 --> 00:53:36.880
I was you know, yeah,
he was the first one to jump on
825
00:53:36.960 --> 00:53:38.719
these things. So I've been I've
been doing with that. Yeah, these
826
00:53:38.760 --> 00:53:44.840
things like a decade, like yeah, this is the this with his bottom,
827
00:53:45.440 --> 00:53:49.320
that's the new addition to that show. Now now that like I'm seeing
828
00:53:49.400 --> 00:53:52.920
it, I've definitely seen a lot
of boards out there that have that ridge
829
00:53:52.760 --> 00:53:57.599
that goes all the way down this
bridge. Yeah, oh really this is
830
00:53:57.719 --> 00:53:59.760
kind of the old ship. This
is what I used to write. So
831
00:53:59.840 --> 00:54:04.519
the new ones you would actually see
like this crazy concave like all those guys
832
00:54:04.559 --> 00:54:07.840
that we've been doing the Sancho.
Many young kids they ride the complete opposite
833
00:54:08.400 --> 00:54:12.760
because they want to do little air
three sixties. They want to like be
834
00:54:12.840 --> 00:54:15.519
able to like pop right, But
this, dude, you could do some
835
00:54:15.760 --> 00:54:20.360
serious carving on this thing. Yes, I film a lot of power surfers
836
00:54:20.440 --> 00:54:23.639
back where I am, and so
all their boards if you want, Yeah,
837
00:54:23.800 --> 00:54:27.800
yeah, yeah, oh that'd be
awesome. Actually yeah, because our
838
00:54:27.920 --> 00:54:30.800
promo reil Too would be dope to
have you on some waves. Oh yeah,
839
00:54:30.920 --> 00:54:36.039
for sure, dude, I appreciate
you showing off this So anyway,
840
00:54:36.119 --> 00:54:40.079
Dark Arc shout out to you guys
justin. Yeah, JT is the ship
841
00:54:40.440 --> 00:54:45.159
and uh and Greg Fernandez always and
this is it man, this is good.
842
00:54:45.199 --> 00:54:47.760
This is gonna be our new quiver
right here. Yeah, we're stoked
843
00:54:47.760 --> 00:54:52.079
to be partnering with them. I
have a JT in the garage. Yeah,
844
00:54:52.119 --> 00:54:57.840
epic. I appreciate. I have
a good rest. Let's have a
845
00:54:57.920 --> 00:55:01.239
few beers. You definitely cheers you
guys, Love you, Talk to you
846
00:55:01.360 --> 00:55:07.239
soon. T tah m hm