Speaker 1: Hello, and welcome to Your Beauty, the show for Your Face, Hair and Bathroom Cabinet. I'm Lee Campbell and.
00:00:13
Speaker 2: I'm Kelly McCarron and it is the last Tuesday of the month, and you know what that means.
00:00:18
Speaker 3: It is time for our monthly master Class.
00:00:22
Speaker 1: So we created the very special Monthly master Class so we can go deep or silly or wide on any topic we want to. Last month, in case you missed it, was Kelly and I doing irl our morning skincare routines, washing our face, you know, looking glowy at the end.
00:00:39
Speaker 2: Sort of yeah, And we will link that episode in the show notes if you missed it. But today we are diving into all things scalp and health and why well, I think it's being talked about more and more as time goes on, because our scalp is skin like it it's the skin that's the same skin that's on our face, yet we treat it like hair. So we thought we probably need to do a deep dive into this because there are so many products, there's so much information, and well, we don't really know that much.
00:01:08
Speaker 1: And if like I did scalp, so what who cares? Stay tuned because it's actually so fascinating and guess what, there's someone here to tell us the actual facts. We're joined by Cassandra Hooper Whitmore, a certified tricologist and industry veteran for over thirty years and the founder of the Tricho Health Clinic in Sydney. So you know more about hair and scalp than probably most people in Australia. What is a tricologist? Can you start with that because it sounds like someone that rides a tricycle.
00:01:35
Speaker 4: Great question. So basically I'm like a paramedical, so I'm not a doctor or anything like that, but walk alongside gps and doctors and dermatologists. The great thing about tricologist is that I am trained specifically in hair, hair loss and issues of the scalp. So where a tricologist comes in, it's well a step above a head for example. But if you have a lot of concerns, sometimes it can take a long time to see somebody like a dermatologist, very expensive as well, but you can wait six, nine, twelve months to see a dermatologist and you may or may not need to see someone. You come and see a tricologist. I can basically work out what's kind of happening for you, what could be causing it, Recommend maybe some holistic approach to correcting what's going on. But then I can also point you in the direction of where you need to go next. So take a lot of the guesswork out of you just deep diving Google or chat GPT and trying to self diagnose through groups on Facebook. I'm able to answer every question that you have.
00:02:43
Speaker 1: And after being or still being a hairdresser for decades, what made you think I want to go into tricology as well.
00:02:49
Speaker 4: Yeah, So I've been headdressing thirty two years and I've always done women of all ages, and I've seen women in their forties in the mid nineties, and I've noticed more prevalent hair loss and scalp issues in the last ten to fifteen years, to the point where I didn't really have anybody to recommend them to. And so I was spurred on by that to educate myself further and did my advanced diploma in trichology and I love it. I love helping women who have just struggled and thrown money at problems with no results and being able to finally give them answers there's nothing nicer than having them give me a big squeeze when they leave to when they've finally gotten all the answers to their questions.
00:03:31
Speaker 1: Cas, let's get started. We want to know why do you think everyone is paying more attention to their scalp now than you know in the past.
00:03:39
Speaker 4: That's a really good question. And do you know what, Like, I've been heddressing thirty two years. Don't look at it, but I do find that, like things have changed a lot in the last I think ten to fifteen years in my industry, and there's been a big shift in hair loss, scalp issues, and more people being where I guess it's like menopause and things like that. People are discussing things more, and so scalp now is becoming a bit of a talking point because people are less afraid. You know, it started with periods than perimenopause. How we're talking about hair loss and it's great.
00:04:15
Speaker 1: So it's less of a stigma I guess about asking and talking about if you've got an issue, and do you think you're seeing more issues or it's just that they were harding you are seeing more?
00:04:24
Speaker 4: Yes?
00:04:24
Speaker 2: Oh?
00:04:25
Speaker 4: Yes, okay, So I've been addressing thirty two years and I have always done women of all ages, and never in my life have I seen more hair issues and scalp issues than in the last ten to fifteen years. What drove me to become a tracology?
00:04:45
Speaker 2: Do you think it's the things that we're using on our head? Do you think it's our stress levels? Do you think it's our like why? I mean, obviously I know that there's no answer to.
00:04:53
Speaker 1: That, but I guess also if people are getting more comfortable to even go like I have had in the past, I still get it zirisis and I would have never gone to the hairdress if I had a flare. I was too self conscious. So maybe that's a combination of them.
00:05:04
Speaker 4: I think so too. And I think as well, like you know a lot of people now it's comfortable to talk about things, and you know, it's being normalized a little bit more. I think as far as like the shift for the public and you know, just the things that I'm seeing and my staff is seeing every single day in the salon, is you know, environmental women now carry a load more stress. Like you know, we are all working, we're all running households, we are doing all the things, and it's just hard to nail it down. But then also, with as much information that we have, are we all really eating better? Are we really looking after God?
00:05:44
Speaker 1: No?
00:05:45
Speaker 4: Exactly, And we have more things available to us, we should be better educated. But when people come and sit in my clinic.
00:05:52
Speaker 1: That's what they come here for, you know.
00:05:55
Speaker 4: They're not doing that. They're not like holistically looking up after ourselves. With all of the information available to and even if we.
00:06:02
Speaker 1: Know it, life is busy. Like my scalp. I like, I love your scalp, but sorry, you're not really high up on them.
00:06:07
Speaker 3: I can't see you. It's kind of like my back.
00:06:08
Speaker 1: It's none of my back, even the back of my head.
00:06:10
Speaker 4: Well, and also like, you know, how many products do you put on your skin every day? A lot, a million, gazillion badillion.
00:06:16
Speaker 3: And hair we're like once a week.
00:06:18
Speaker 4: Conditioner, rush, shampoo and that's it.
00:06:21
Speaker 1: And I think we find tire with a lot of the ubi's and us as well. We don't want to spend a lot of money with trial and error. I might think, oh wow, I've heard that product's amazing, but if it's sixty barks, I'd rather spend that on my face. Well, something you can see, Yeah, exactly. So that leads me to my next question. Is our scalp aging like this skin on our face?
00:06:39
Speaker 4: Well, look, that's another really good question.
00:06:42
Speaker 2: Can I just jump in because you've just blown my mind. My mom had chemo like ten years ago, so her I saw her scalp for the first time and it was now it's it was so smooth. It had not one wrinkle, it had not one sun spot or anything.
00:06:57
Speaker 1: But that's because yeah, no hair like no sorry, no, yeah, except it's still age. Does it go through menopause?
00:07:04
Speaker 4: You don't have the muscles like you do on your face, right, having like your face moves a lot because there's like hundreds.
00:07:10
Speaker 1: Of in terms of rentals.
00:07:12
Speaker 4: Yeah, so when it comes to your scalp, you don't have a lot of that move. And look, your body age is at the same rate. I've heard a lot of like rubbish statements from people saying, you know, oh, your scalp ages six and seven times faster.
00:07:25
Speaker 1: Yes, I thought that too.
00:07:27
Speaker 4: Look, I just I just don't believe it, like you know, and it's just not true. Our body age is at the same rate.
00:07:34
Speaker 3: Do you think that our cycles impact our scalp palth.
00:07:38
Speaker 4: I think that that depends on person to person because you know a lot of women, again we're able to talk about periods. Now, this is a woman.
00:07:46
Speaker 1: I just got mine right before we started.
00:07:48
Speaker 3: Expected she said, Oh no, I'm gushing.
00:07:51
Speaker 4: I did.
00:07:51
Speaker 1: I did. It's not My app did not tell me that would happen.
00:07:55
Speaker 4: Wow, can they do that?
00:07:57
Speaker 1: Oh yes, I live by my apphole. Yes, I'm very mad at it.
00:08:02
Speaker 4: Okay, Well, look for a lot of people. If you have really big flows, like if you lose a lot of blood and things like that, yes, you can lower your iron levels and that can you know, have a lot of effect on your ferret and your iron storage levels, which helps feed healthy scalps. So if you're doing that or you're having a.
00:08:22
Speaker 1: Lot of transfusion.
00:08:24
Speaker 2: Yeah, the last time I checked, my eye levels were ten. So that's probably more of a sign that my scalp is going.
00:08:29
Speaker 3: To be grim.
00:08:31
Speaker 4: Wait to have a look at that.
00:08:32
Speaker 1: Okay. So obviously you know periods impact about overall and that. What about pregnancy, because what's the whole thing with the amazing pregnancy hair and you don't need to wash it as much.
00:08:43
Speaker 4: Well, I don't know if that's actually true.
00:08:46
Speaker 2: Well, sorry, And also it would be so person dependent. My hair was so lovely and not as oily.
00:08:52
Speaker 1: So mine was phenomenal. And I think my theory is when you're having boys. But my hair was amazing. And then I didn't have postpartum hair loss or fall for a really long time, so I thought I'd bypassed it. But generally they say your hair gets sticky. Is that a myth? And what happens in pregnancy?
00:09:08
Speaker 4: Yeah? Right, So the great thing about pregnancy is that you know, we are building a human being. So our body is just doing all its best work. You know, it's building, it's growing, it's storing all the right things, it's pushing all the good things out. So hair growth just goes into actual overdrive. We also have a like, our growth period for our hair will be extended, and our shedding phase is often paused or delayed, so you won't get as much shedding during that period, which is why you're saying, like your hair feels a bit thicker, Yes, so you won't get that full maybe get well before.
00:09:45
Speaker 1: We get into postpartum. And that was a really interesting thing you mentioned there with the growth cycle. So what explaining a hair growth cycle? Do we all have one? Is it all the same? How does that work?
00:09:53
Speaker 4: Yeah? So on average, I guess. Look, hair growth cycles are very much like a period. Everyone's as different, but most people run a similar sort of course. So hair can grow for most people a four year period. And the way that I measure hair grows on average about one to one point two centimeters every four weeks, so that's about twelve centimeters a year.
00:10:15
Speaker 1: That's why I have to do my grade so much.
00:10:17
Speaker 2: And also if you do, like I'm a little I'm probably two centimeters a month, I'm fast.
00:10:23
Speaker 1: It doesn't exist that but.
00:10:26
Speaker 4: It's actually not true. There's been lots of study.
00:10:28
Speaker 3: So long, so everyone's exact same.
00:10:31
Speaker 4: Pretty much like within one to one point two centimeters.
00:10:34
Speaker 2: We've always thought that our hair grows faster. Well, I need you my rear growth so much more than other people.
00:10:40
Speaker 4: And what you're probably noticing is that your growth phase is lasting longer. So maybe it feels a bit lusher, it feels a bit thicker like feel it's just feeling more. Then you probably feel like it's growing more.
00:10:52
Speaker 1: And after this average four years, what.
00:10:54
Speaker 4: Happens so then it goes into a resting phase, which for some people can be like one month can be four months, again depends on the person, and then you go into a falling out face. So those stands.
00:11:05
Speaker 3: God, I had no idea.
00:11:07
Speaker 4: But this will happen at all different times, right, So.
00:11:09
Speaker 1: It's not not every hair strand is on the same schedule because they you wake up one morning and all your hairs fall Now, could you imagine.
00:11:15
Speaker 4: Yeah, well wow, okay, everyone's hair strands itself. We're on different cycles. So yeah, it'll grow through a growth stage for about four years, which is why as well, like when you think about growing hair, you know, people's hair, if we go by the twelve centimeters a year thing, most people's hair looks really nice and solid, sort of nipple length kind of thing. And then very rarely do you see people with hair past that length and looks really nice, weak and delicious. It's old. It's four years old. You've also got a lot of those strands that are starting to fall away to Oh.
00:11:46
Speaker 1: So it's not that your scalp says, okay, stop your long enough, it's the new ones, like it's starting a new one from the top. Does that make sense, it's falling out? Yeah, exactly. So I was thinking like, why does it just stop there?
00:11:57
Speaker 4: But it doesn't? Yeah, exactly, that.
00:12:00
Speaker 3: Makes so much sense. I've never heard anyone talk about that before.
00:12:03
Speaker 1: I thought the growth cycles are much more frequent. But maybe that's eyebrows or eyelashes.
00:12:08
Speaker 4: And eyelashes are like six eight weeks.
00:12:10
Speaker 1: Okay, I do want to quickly ask you. We'll probably just explain how people at home can work out their hair type if they don't know, not thick or thin. But there's four types? Is that right? Straight?
00:12:20
Speaker 4: Then wavy? Yeah, then curly yep, and coily.
00:12:25
Speaker 1: And does is that? And are they influenced by the scalp at all?
00:12:29
Speaker 3: Yeah?
00:12:29
Speaker 4: So it's generally the shape of the follicle itself. And it's like imagine like you know, when you're wrapping presents and you used to use scissors and you curl the ribbons. Yes, kind of like that easiest way to explain.
00:12:41
Speaker 2: So when you have a look at someone's scalps, or even if Lee's hair was straight, if you have a look at a scalp, can you tell what he actual hair type is?
00:12:47
Speaker 4: No?
00:12:48
Speaker 1: Okay, no, but it will I mean, I guess tell the hair to grow a certain way exactly, and then if we have coily versus straight, do we treat our hair in our scalp differently hair?
00:12:58
Speaker 4: Yes, scalp not so much. It doesn't really matter.
00:13:02
Speaker 1: Okay, fascinating.
00:13:03
Speaker 2: It's so interesting because if someone has coily hair, well, I know that my girlfriend that has coily hair takes her like an hour to wash her hair.
00:13:11
Speaker 4: Yeah, and look curly hair. I don't know. Have you seen a piece of hair close up?
00:13:14
Speaker 1: I actually have. I've seen them very close up.
00:13:17
Speaker 4: What do you mean close up like under a really big Yeah, and it's like it's like basically like a piece of rope with fish scales on it, right, and so the shaft, yeah, the shaft. But these fish scales generally lie pretty closed and they shut down, so get all signy. Shampoo opens those cuticles, they're called those fish scales, and conditioner closes them. But if the hair's very be so interesting. Yeah, if the hair is very bendy, those fish girls don't lie as flat as possible, which is why very curly hair naughty. They catch against each other like pieces of velcrow. It can get pretty naughty. So that's why, also you want to condition.
00:13:58
Speaker 3: This is explaining so much much.
00:14:03
Speaker 1: Before we just completely derail the life stages apart. Tell me about postpartum. My fear is, oh, you've had the baby. Evolutionary. The man's like, great, I made a baby and then you just you know, cry and her hair falls out, amongst other things. That pretty much it pretty much it.
00:14:17
Speaker 4: You just nailed it. Okay, But why again, Remember we were talking about like how we are building and rolling and storing all the things. We don't need that anymore, okay, So so read them.
00:14:29
Speaker 1: Hair loss is a real thing. How long does it last? For?
00:14:33
Speaker 4: Normally six to nine months, So a lot of people will find that something truggers it. Sometimes it's just having the baby. Sometimes it is because the hormones, because it's hormone related. Sometimes certain hormone levels stay quite high while they're breastfeeding, and then once they stop breastfeeding, they'll have that big shed. So that's also in our world called telligen effluvian. When you lose a lot of hair at one time, it's nearly like you know, like a dandelione when you pick up a damline you're and it goes like that.
00:15:02
Speaker 1: That's what happens like that, Okay. So it's a natural part of the process hundred percent of being a mother, okay, yeah, and it won't last forever.
00:15:10
Speaker 4: No, okay, And that's why you're looking at this beautiful cute baby because you're feeling like a troll just keeps you just got the little yeah.
00:15:17
Speaker 3: Yeah bin chickens.
00:15:18
Speaker 4: And in fact, mind was so bad that I actually had to shave an undercut because the sides of my hair here after I stopped breastfeeding was shiny ball like my baby.
00:15:27
Speaker 1: Oh wow, yeah, because we hear a lot and I experienced it. I don't know about you, kel, but especially here. And then also you're doing a mumbine and I know that pulling it tight causes breakage. But is it a particular part of the scalp and hair that it happens to you or do you just notice it because it's a your.
00:15:42
Speaker 4: It's you know, I would cool like a diffuse hair loss, so because it's like a shock because the hormones have changed, you generally will just lose like hair evenly pretty much all over. But we look at exactly and you're seeing it more in people notice hair loss mostly when they're looking down in the mirror because you can see all the way. And then obviously besides, like you say, when you're putting your hair.
00:16:03
Speaker 2: Back, and actually, because I'm thinking, whenever I go through hair loss, like I notice it, I always notice it most here. But I would think that that's almost a little bit thinner in general, just there, like where my horns would be if I had horns.
00:16:14
Speaker 1: Like above the temper.
00:16:15
Speaker 4: I don't know why that I'm in your horn location could vary.
00:16:18
Speaker 1: As well, that's true, yeah, you know, kind of the temples, but a bit further up. Yes, well you know, yeah, everyone hopefully knows what we mean by them. But maybe Kelly would dry maybe I diagram for my little horns.
00:16:30
Speaker 3: If you're listening and not watching.
00:16:33
Speaker 1: Okay, let's talk about perimenopause and menopause because we're keeping on this life life span phases. What happens then, So.
00:16:42
Speaker 4: Menopause again, it's hormones, right, like, hormones are shifting, things are changing, and this is a really big time for women. And the thing that I'm finding is too, is that because peri menopause. Now, remember we always just just talk about menopause, and now people like, wait, there's this whole thing called ery menopause, and wait, it can go for like three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten years before menopause. So it's a really interesting time. So during this time, you're having a regular periods, things are changing, your ovaries are doing weird things or doing nothing. And what's happening is is that that's all going through your body. Right in normal speak, that's what's happening. So it's all going through your body. So during the time that hormones are changing, you have these little things in your body called free testosterone. Same and generally your estrogen levels keep a cap on that. But as that sort of starts fluctuating, imagine these little teeny tiny little testosterone things now are released into your body. They change into these little molecules I guess called DHT. You probably heard of that. It's called dehydro testosterone. And if you have a sensitivity to DHT, they attach themselves through the top part of your head and essentially strangle the follicles. So any new nutrients and any goodness that you're giving to your body is not being allowed to come through, right, So you do get out very nice. They're not very nice.
00:18:08
Speaker 3: They're mean guys and bullies.
00:18:10
Speaker 1: Well, I mean, that's a lot of pery you know, it's not just the hair, but that makes a lot of sense.
00:18:14
Speaker 4: Yeah, yeah, yeah. So what happens then is you generally get so when we talk about widening of the part and that sort of thing, it's because those follicles are being essentially starved. So the way I like to say is this is our garden, and when you're not feeding the garden properly and fertilizing it and looking after it, your plants start to get weaker. So you'll get a miniaturization of the follicles, which in turn creates a miniaturization of the hair.
00:18:38
Speaker 1: So you get what does that term mean in regards to hair, Like I just pictured a plant going, yeah, a little wilting very hard. We not make that happen like, well, that's I'm assuming that's what happens in Perry, but in general life. So you know, healthy diet and lifestyle does impact our actual strands.
00:18:56
Speaker 4: Yeah, because if you are low in certain things. So the big things for tricologists and hair is B twelve, iron storage, and vitamin D. There are main three that we look at. Then if they're normal and other things are looking suspicious and you're suffering from hair loss and other issues. Then we dive a bit deeper into things. But there are three main things that we look at. But if you're not eating well and looking after yourself, you start getting that miniaturization as well, so.
00:19:23
Speaker 1: I mean will affect your actual strands. That's blown my mind.
00:19:26
Speaker 2: Okay, So we're going to get into some more questions later because we still have so many.
00:19:31
Speaker 3: But before the break, we actually asked the beauty Facebook community that you would be joining us today, and we got so many dms and questions come through. So we pulled out just a few that sort of like tied in a lot of the questions to ask.
00:19:45
Speaker 1: I'm going to start the lovely Gemma said, I wash my hair every night and it's oily by lunchtime. What am I doing wrong?
00:19:52
Speaker 4: Well, good question. There's a couple of things we'd want to deep dive here. Is if you go into bed with it wet. That's a big one.
00:19:59
Speaker 1: Why yeah, why would that impact to the oil? Is? Why is it bad in general?
00:20:04
Speaker 4: Yeah? Yeah, it's just look it's not good.
00:20:06
Speaker 3: Right, makes it look awful.
00:20:08
Speaker 4: I hope no one's eaten. But like hair and scalp can be full of yeast and when you leave that damp. I mean imagine leaving other areas of your body damp, like for eight hours.
00:20:19
Speaker 1: And what's happening there in the dampness.
00:20:22
Speaker 4: Of course, a lot of like yeasty goodness. So things are growing, blooming, least yeast blooms.
00:20:31
Speaker 3: You can can you get thrush of the scalp.
00:20:33
Speaker 1: It doesn't sound nice, But why is that bad?
00:20:36
Speaker 4: Because it can lead to over oil production. Okay, it can lead to things like irritation of the scalp. You can get folicky lighter, so you can get infections within the hair follicles.
00:20:47
Speaker 1: It's smelly and your hair is weaker when it's damp. I guess. So you know you've gone to bend. You're throwing your head around and you can break it.
00:20:54
Speaker 4: That's absolutely true. Yeah, absolutely okay.
00:20:57
Speaker 1: So do you think maybe if she dried her hair before bet, if she's a night shower, it oil might be slightly better.
00:21:03
Speaker 4: Yes. And another thing that she could do too is ensure that she's using a product that's for oilier hair. Now, that doesn't necessarily mean an oily shampoo. I have extremely oily hair, so I like a volumizing shampoo because I know a volumizing shampoo is going to be a little bit more cleansing. It's going to pull more oil off the hair, and it's going to allow me to stay a little bit less oily. But again, you guys are masters of the face and skin. Skin is oily for some people. Some people have oilier face than their hair, Like sorry, olier face than other people. Yes, and you.
00:21:36
Speaker 1: Know, but if you've got a combo or oily skin type, it's likely your scalp is the same exactly.
00:21:41
Speaker 4: And like, just because you know Sally from down the road can leave her hair a week because she doesn't get oily, doesn't mean that you have the wrong scalp type because you can't get away with it for that long. Yeah, okay, let's blow your mind. Yes, hairdressers tell people to leave shampoo in your hair as long as possible. I've been a hairdresser for thirty two years. It's something that I was always trying. Don't shampoo your hair Twice a week is more.
00:22:02
Speaker 1: Than enough because why was it considered bad.
00:22:05
Speaker 4: Because they're fading your colors. So if you're having a lovely blonde done and it's they put a lovely gloss toner over your hair every time you're shampoo A lot of those glosses will last you about twenty shampoos.
00:22:16
Speaker 3: Yeah.
00:22:16
Speaker 4: So if you're flogging your hair on shampooing it like every day or every second day, that can pull your color out, which can cause the hair dresser problems. But as a trichologist, we are more positioned to be like, Okay, I want you shampooing your hair max like every second day, like, don't leave it longer.
00:22:33
Speaker 2: Well, yeah, that makes sense actually, because now that we're thinking about the scalp as well, we ease.
00:22:38
Speaker 4: Imagine washing your face ooh for two years or three days other bits?
00:22:43
Speaker 1: Well, oh, I have more questions about that later, bart Kel, what's the next question?
00:22:48
Speaker 2: Well, Selena has asked. I know, we keep trying to hijack the UBIS with our own questions. When it comes to hair brushing, what are the best brushes and combs for different hair types?
00:22:57
Speaker 1: Ooh, so bristle's good, it's metal good? Does it matter if it's bore bristle? Can it be plastic?
00:23:02
Speaker 2: Is there a difference between a twenty dollar brush and a one hundred and eighty dollar brush.
00:23:05
Speaker 4: Oh, that's such a good question.
00:23:07
Speaker 1: I have eighty brushes here. If you'd like me to show you later.
00:23:09
Speaker 4: Yes, I know. Look, I'm I'm one of these people where I actually don't think that brushes brushes should really just be used for blow drying. I think if you're detangling hair, the best way to do it is in the shower with conditioner in there, with a wide tooth comb or what we call a highbred brush, so it's a brush that has really quite flexible bristles, so it's not doing any real severe tugging on the hair, and you use it in the shower when you've got conditioner in your hair, get out, towel, dry it really well, and then detangle it again. On the days that you're not shampooing it, say, for example, you have very curly hair, you might give it a miss down with like a tanglar or a diluted to tangler and then give it another comb through. But as far as brushes go, look, bristles a great little times are great, but again it depends on what you're doing around styling it, because essentially for brushing, I wouldn't really be brushing your hair. And it comes from my parents' right, because when we're kids, your mum used to say go and brush hair.
00:24:09
Speaker 1: But why aren't we brushing it? Because it's then, you know, making breakage. Is it distributing.
00:24:14
Speaker 2: If I have to brush my hair every morning and night?
00:24:17
Speaker 3: Otherwise it's so naughty?
00:24:19
Speaker 4: When is it fuzzy all the time after you brush it? No, all the time?
00:24:24
Speaker 1: She's right.
00:24:25
Speaker 4: So what you're doing, your hair wants to sit as one, whether that's straight or whether it has a wave or whether it has a bit of movement to it. The second you run that brush should, especially on dry hair, you're making it sit on top of itself. So every single person that comes into our salon will say, my hair's really frizzy, and you go, really when? And they go after I brush.
00:24:45
Speaker 1: It and you're like, m hm, but it feels so good. And the Brady Bunch did.
00:24:52
Speaker 3: It, Marshall, mush and Marshall.
00:24:56
Speaker 2: My mother's ruined it because now I'm like, if I did that properly with my can dishner, and then maybe I wouldn't need to be so tangly.
00:25:04
Speaker 1: Yes, And the Curly Girl method, which we'll also ask about later, is a lot about less intervention. So it's less about the more about the frequency.
00:25:13
Speaker 4: And like I said, your brushes should really be selected as per your styling needs. So if you're smoothing it, bigger brushes. If you want more volume, smaller brushes.
00:25:21
Speaker 1: But don't just brush your hair for ten minutes before bed. Big because you like the feeling of it or thing that you need.
00:25:25
Speaker 3: Oh my god. Okay, it's very rare that we are speechless.
00:25:28
Speaker 1: Finally before we go to a break. Is there a huge difference in buying salon brand hair products compared to those purchased in supermarkets and pharmacies.
00:25:37
Speaker 4: Okay, As a hairdresser, we were always taught professional only. But one thing I've learned since becoming a trichologist not necessarily true. There are some pretty good products available to people out there that you know aren't super expensive, and in fact, sometimes the really expensive ones are like clothes, you're buying the brand name. To be honest, you and I just really don't think that spending more. There's ingredients that you should avoid. Okay, so things like non water soluble silicons.
00:26:12
Speaker 1: That's a good definition because we hear silicon is bad. But there's a caveat, and.
00:26:15
Speaker 4: Especially when it comes to shampoo and conditioner, as long as you're choosing something that's specific for your hair type and your goals.
00:26:22
Speaker 1: And so less about whether you've got it at the salon or at the supermarket, less about really expensive and really cheap, just the individual product and what's in it.
00:26:29
Speaker 4: And I'm going to be crucified for that, I know, but it's.
00:26:31
Speaker 3: No I think that that's what people want to hear as well, Like it's more dependent on the product than the brand, are bad price range and look.
00:26:39
Speaker 4: To be honest, again, talking from the hairdresser point of view, the issue is your heat styling and the way that you do it. That's going to cause you more damage. And again the longer you leave it between shampoos is what's going to cause you the damage of your scalp and stuff as well. Well.
00:26:54
Speaker 2: After the break, we are going to get up close and personal to our scalps and ah oh, dear Cass might have some things to say about how grotty my scalp.
00:27:03
Speaker 4: And hair is.
00:27:05
Speaker 2: Okay, So the moment of truth is here. If you're watching, Cass has a very interesting looking machine here, and if you're listening, well, I suggest you just head over to Apple Podcasts or YouTube because things are about to get potentially a little bit gross.
00:27:22
Speaker 3: Who knows, cass. What is this machine, what do you use it for? How often do you use it? And what are you looking for?
00:27:30
Speaker 4: Awesome? So this is a tricoscope and it is basically a microscope, little handheld microscope, and it comes in a few different magnifications, so generally I use like a fifty times magnification, yeah, which can get pretty real. And as part of tricology, it is like our go to tool because I actually call it's like my fortune telling machine, because even if you are doing things with your scalp, like eating better, or you've suffered hair loss or whatever, but I can kind of see what's going to be happening that you're not seeing yet for like the next sort of three months or so, so I can see things long before you will be your psychic.
00:28:08
Speaker 1: I am a psychic, And if you have it on going client, I guess you can see the progress or what's happening if you're documenting it over time exactly and diari of your scalp.
00:28:15
Speaker 4: Yeah, And it's a really good way, especially if somebody is like like you were saying before postpartum perimenopause, menopause, we're adjusting things to help them get rid of whatever they're dealing with. We can track that.
00:28:30
Speaker 3: So Flea's going to go bald in three months, you'll be able to see.
00:28:33
Speaker 4: I'll obviously the start of something for sure.
00:28:35
Speaker 1: Because you know it just happens that quickly. All right, So cass, why don't I go first? You can take very close up photos of my scalp, and Kell and I will talk through what we're doing. You're so brave, so you're going to do my little my close up photos. But would you have asked people about their hair type or what they think their scalp is like oily you know, yeah? Or do you can you tell everything from this machine?
00:28:57
Speaker 4: Well, generally, like all that sort of stuff would be asked for, So we ask about help don they shampoo? What are they itchy? Is there any sort of things that they're feeling they're worried about? Any heat? Some people have very sensitive scalps heat.
00:29:11
Speaker 1: I sweat a lot, and I'm a hot headed, sweaty hair But.
00:29:15
Speaker 4: There's also like really bad forms of hair loss that generate like it feels hot and sense. Yeah, so if they're getting that, I can look closer and look for things like inflammation and stuff like a little bit more talking about that. What do you think that I will see?
00:29:35
Speaker 1: Well, I washed my hair this morning, even though I colored my roots yesterday because I was going to see you. There's some dry shampoo in there. Look, I am very classically combo. I've always had a very oily, scalp oily hair. I have relatively fine hair, but a lot of it. I used to have a lot more, although it felt that way. I don't know if that's a thing. Lately, with perimenopause and some grief and some stress, things have changed epically, and even I didn't know really what was going on. I've been told that prolonged stress and lack of sleep can impact your skin and your hair, and your hair goes what's called gummy like, it feels squishy, and that's because of a different type of seabam, Cass, I don't know what you're gonna see. I'm scared, I'm excited. But my hair feels good today, so.
00:30:25
Speaker 3: It looks nice.
00:30:26
Speaker 1: Oh yeah, just today I did it extra special for you, Kelly. I've got her hair back, a cool braid thing, but it makes me think she hasn't washed it.
00:30:33
Speaker 2: And as Cass will be able to see, I am a natural blonde is so light. Naturally, I don't ever color it. I don't ever do any seat starting anything bad. Listen, I don't know what you'll see, but I mean I assume that they'll be a bit more built up than lee because I've washed it and I've been to the gym a few times. I'm playing netball, so I've used a lot of dry shampoo because how many days, like four or five. I hate washing my hair so much. I hate it.
00:31:04
Speaker 1: I have to wash my hair every day, like I wash my hair five times a week, because there's two days where I don't really care. Maybe Imperio it's a little bit less oily, but we're very opposite.
00:31:14
Speaker 4: Is it that you don't like washing your hair or is it that you don't like the styling of your hair or you just don't like the whole thing?
00:31:21
Speaker 3: Actually, yeah, sorry, I love washing my hair.
00:31:24
Speaker 2: I hate it being wet, and I hate then blow drying it because it's even though it's like I've got really good hair dryer, but even though it's fine, there's a lot of it and it takes so long and it's just an irritating thing to have to do.
00:31:36
Speaker 3: I'm very lazy so it's a time thing. It's a time thing.
00:31:39
Speaker 4: And I think that's like most people. Most people love the feeling of a.
00:31:43
Speaker 3: Clean hair, but we don't want it.
00:31:45
Speaker 4: It's just like the whole process.
00:31:47
Speaker 2: But then I've learned it far too late of an age that I have to blow dry it else because when I drite naturally, even if I wash it in the morning, it looks very fluffy because it is naturally quite curly.
00:32:00
Speaker 3: And you've been brushing it, and do brush it?
00:32:03
Speaker 1: Which the moment of truth? Shall you scan me? Yes? Does it matter where you scan?
00:32:09
Speaker 4: We'll start on the top of your head. Oh, we did more than but then we can do like some tricky ends bits to see like how you know if you are having regular haircuts if you're not, and how nasty those ends are, all right, and how old and tired they are.
00:32:22
Speaker 3: Let's do it.
00:32:24
Speaker 1: Looks like a computer with like a kid's thermometer. Thing. I'm done now, Cass is going to sit down. Kelly's got a eye shut, and I whoa Like they're like spread apart and.
00:32:35
Speaker 2: It looks like scalps. Looks so interesting and believe you.
00:32:38
Speaker 1: Can open your eyes now, Ah, what part of my hair did you scal like hair? Did you scan? Then?
00:32:44
Speaker 4: So this is the very top of your head, so it's right on your partline, about sort of three centimeters from the front of your hairline.
00:32:52
Speaker 2: The hairs do look quite far apart on the scalp, but I've seen like with different scalps. It always kind of looks like that to me.
00:32:58
Speaker 3: But it looks like it almost looks like is that dye or scabs or gunk?
00:33:06
Speaker 1: Excuse me, Kelly, can you please let the experts speak? That might be a lovely photo. Her face says, no, but please stop talking. Let's hear from the expert.
00:33:13
Speaker 4: Partially a little bit of leftover color, and it's also partially probably what we'd call follicular inflammation.
00:33:22
Speaker 2: A scabby puss around the hair follicules, but that could also be the hair dye.
00:33:31
Speaker 3: As Cass was saying, explain that, please.
00:33:35
Speaker 4: So that can be that's actually what we call hair loss in action.
00:33:40
Speaker 1: Please explain, Cas.
00:33:42
Speaker 4: Yeah, so part of it. You did say you popped a color in yesterday or the day before yesterday. Yeah, So generally then, because you're coloring it so dark, you will see a little bit of staining. If it hasn't been cleansed out even though you did shampoo it again this morning.
00:33:55
Speaker 1: Can yesterday, I just rinsed in condition because that's what the box says to do. But I did shampoo this morning.
00:34:00
Speaker 4: Okay, cool. But those this area around the follicle here where it's like a little bit of discoloration, you can see the scalp sort of nice, quite white, and then around the bottom of the follicle here it's a little bit of a darker brownie kind of color.
00:34:15
Speaker 1: It's like a teeny tiny nipple around my hair.
00:34:18
Speaker 4: So remember how we spoke before about the follicles being starved. That's kind of what that is. Like, that's that can cause that. So inflammation can be caused by lower than ideal blood levels.
00:34:31
Speaker 1: And that like absolutely marries to where I'm at right now, Like I've had the blood taste and all that, So that makes sense.
00:34:37
Speaker 4: Stress as well is a really big flarer of inflammation.
00:34:43
Speaker 1: Is sleep important for your scalp?
00:34:44
Speaker 4: Sleep is massively important if you have known autoimmune issues as well. I mean, you're just a box ticker really as far as I'm concerned when it comes to inflammation.
00:34:54
Speaker 1: What does that mean? Everything that's happening in my life at the moment is mirrored on my scalp.
00:34:58
Speaker 3: As for the photo, yes, it's so interesting.
00:35:00
Speaker 2: Yet you look at you and you look like the picture of perfect health and yeah, perfection.
00:35:06
Speaker 1: Well I'm good at doing my hair, but so it looks good, but I know personally it's not at a great place.
00:35:11
Speaker 3: And I didn't believe you.
00:35:12
Speaker 2: I was like, because she goes, oh my hair's gummy or whatnot, and I'm like, oh, you look great, But.
00:35:17
Speaker 1: Can I ask on a hair strand or shaft? They see those kind of like white bits. What is that?
00:35:23
Speaker 4: That would either be dry sh that looks like dry shampoo. Okay, So you know what's interesting though, and this will blow your mind a little bit. So see how generally like the hair strands are for you different shapes and sizes, Like you have these nice big, fat chubby ones.
00:35:38
Speaker 1: I like that one.
00:35:39
Speaker 4: We love fat chubby hair strands. So if you have lots of these, generally they're being well fed. Your garden is growing, well, all the things are happening. You also have what we call clustering, which is where you've got see this one follicle and there's multiple hairs coming out of them. Yes, when you talk about your hair being fine but having a lot of it. That's the pure example of that. It's calling you a truth teller. You're telling the truth because you have multiple hairs coming out of one follicle, which is ideal, Oh is it? Yes? Okay, however you have see these little teeny tiny skinny ones.
00:36:14
Speaker 1: Like there's a main hair and then there's like a teeny breeze and twigs. Yeah, there's a twig popping out of the same follicle.
00:36:20
Speaker 4: Yeah, so that can be and again without seeing blood tests and all those sort of things. Of course, it could be a nutritional influence, it could be your pery mannow, it can be stress, it can be a whole host of things. You're probably not seeing a lot of difference as much as what other people would when you look in the mirror because you have that buffer of that clustering.
00:36:45
Speaker 1: Okay, so because it's my naturally a clustering scout hair type. But I am personally noticing a massive difference in just how my hair feels, how it styles. Yeah, it's not in a good place at the moment. And that makes sense.
00:36:58
Speaker 4: And this this sort of thing can happen quite slowly too. So sometimes, like when people come and see me, they might have been feeling their hairs thinner. The part's getting a little bit wider, the ponytail is getting a little bit smaller. How long has that been happening for? Oh, well, you know, five, six, seven, eight, nine years. And then when we go into it and we have a look, I can see that there's a lot of that miniaturization happening.
00:37:19
Speaker 1: Okay.
00:37:20
Speaker 4: The great thing about hair is that things happen very slowly. So if you are suffering from that sort of stuff, it takes a long time. But on the flip side, it takes a long time for it to recover as well.
00:37:29
Speaker 1: That's what I was going to ask. Should someone you know, you're seeing someone like me and they think, okay, I'm going to eat better and generally, you know, do what I can in my control because obviously you can't just go and eat an apple and you've got long, luscious locks. It takes a while for that to kind of hit Yeah, yeah, okay.
00:37:44
Speaker 4: Yeah, about three to six months generally. And also again because of the hair cycle, right, we spoke before about that. Sure, so when the hair's in the falling out stage, yes, like if you suddenly start doing all the good things. It will move back into the growing phase, but it's not going to disrupt the cycle and make it all happen faster. And look, let's be clear, there's nothing on this planet that's going to make hair grow faster, which is another reason why I became a tricologist, because there are snake oil salesmen everywhere.
00:38:11
Speaker 3: Oh wait, the people that this product. And it's like you just put hair extensions in.
00:38:17
Speaker 1: So you were mentioning that you can take you know, different areas of the scalp and look at them in a grid and it'll tell you stuff. Should we do that? Let's do that before we move on to Kelly.
00:38:26
Speaker 4: Yeah, so this is one way that we look for what we call, I guess female pattern hair loss and genetic hair loss quite common when you hormone start fluctuating.
00:38:37
Speaker 1: Can you tell us a bit about that before you look for it? For me? What is female pattern hair loss? Is it hereditary? Is it? What's it about?
00:38:43
Speaker 4: Yeah? Good? So it's generally like we were discussing before about how once your estrogen levels start dropping, they release like the cap or the cover. I guess you could call it on free testosterone starts roaming around your body and turns into a thing called dehydrotestos attaches to the follicles through the top of your head and essentially strangles them. So that's when you get those sort of skinnier hairs there. So they create a barrier to the feed.
00:39:10
Speaker 1: And hence the hair loss because it can't grow. And is that different to ball going balding? That's on the way okay, So it's on the way to that, So that's what happens.
00:39:18
Speaker 4: So that DHT sensitivity never happens through the back of the head. So that's why when you see men who are boulding, they don't lose their hair through the back of the heads of women are the same that row exactly, so generally with women, that's how we can tell if your hair loss is a hormonal hair loss. Is right, when we check the back of your head, you want to see these guys, how you've got your finer piezz and then your big fat, chubby guys. Yep, what you ideally would want to see is those big fat, chabby guys all over.
00:39:49
Speaker 1: The head, right okay, okay, So let's take my other photos and see what picture it paints.
00:39:54
Speaker 3: I'm going to have a look at this time while it happens.
00:39:56
Speaker 2: You can watch kel if you want to see what's happening right now, because this probably really isn't translating well to audio, make sure you jump on either YouTube or Apple podcasts where you can watch the entire episode.
00:40:09
Speaker 3: And we just had Cass.
00:40:10
Speaker 2: Moving her little magic wand or the doppler as I keep calling it around Lee Scalp. So we now have four photos and Cas just sat back down.
00:40:18
Speaker 1: But before she did, she fix the back of my hair so nicely, just to make sure it still looks good.
00:40:22
Speaker 4: Girls gotta look after.
00:40:23
Speaker 1: Girls, Cass. There's four photos of my scalp various places. What does this tell you? Without having done blood tests, real consultation, what does that tell you?
00:40:32
Speaker 4: So talking about like your diet and things like that before and stress and all the rest.
00:40:38
Speaker 1: Of it, she's cushioning the blow guys.
00:40:42
Speaker 4: So I've taken one of front and center, similar to what I took before.
00:40:45
Speaker 1: What area is this here? This toss is.
00:40:47
Speaker 4: About centimeter from the top of your hairline, straight down your part yep. And then the next one's around your temple yep, yep. And then this one is on your crown, and then this other one is at the back of your head. So you're not showing a huge amount of signs of hormonal hair loss because you have those nice, big, fat, chubby strands up there through the top. So if you were suffering from a hormonal hair loss, you would generally see those much finer, miniaturized hairs through there. Okay, but what I am seeing is is remember how we spoke about those little teeny tiny, skinny starved ones. Yes, you've got those sort of throughout your head.
00:41:27
Speaker 1: So that could lead to more hair loss later.
00:41:30
Speaker 4: It can be hair loss in action, okay, for cause by stress, cause by diet, sleep, yeah, and lower levels of the desired you know, vitamins and minerals that we need in our diet.
00:41:43
Speaker 1: Yeah, which we don't just run and by we go and get a blood test and all that sort of stuff.
00:41:47
Speaker 4: Absolutely, but hair is like one of the first symptoms of anything, to be honest, in your body. Because the body is an amazing thing and what it does is it preserves itself one hundred percent of the time. So if you have low vitamin B twelve levels or low vitamin D, it's not gonna go well, I need to keep powering this hair and scalp growth.
00:42:05
Speaker 1: Yeah, my hair's not that important to my survival.
00:42:07
Speaker 4: It's going to be looking after your circulation and your heart and your brain and your lungs and everything else, which is why those levels are better closely inspected by a tricologist. And Kelly's possible.
00:42:18
Speaker 1: Yeah, okay, all right, let's do Kelly's Okay. So Kell and I have swapped. She's in the hot seat. I am excited. We are doing the first photo like we did for me, which is kind of at the top of a few centimeters into the hairline. Where is your natural park, Kel, I've got a cow leek. Yeah, I've got one at my crown. So you do like you just let it do what it wants.
00:42:39
Speaker 2: No, I force it into a middle party. Fil'm wearing my hair down, okay?
00:42:43
Speaker 3: Or I force it.
00:42:45
Speaker 1: What happens when you just get out of shower? Let it try naturally?
00:42:47
Speaker 4: What does it fall?
00:42:48
Speaker 1: Okay? Very good? All right, Cass. What can you tell from Kelly's first photo? Well, her scalp looks like it's got its period at one spot. What half of her scalp is.
00:42:59
Speaker 4: Bright and it's filthy? Is she's filthy.
00:43:05
Speaker 1: Is her scalp filthy?
00:43:06
Speaker 4: Well? Yeah, her hair, like you can see all this all this flaky white stuff that is a dry shampoo.
00:43:13
Speaker 3: Oh, that's not bad.
00:43:15
Speaker 4: It's not good.
00:43:16
Speaker 1: The tricologist said, it your dirty.
00:43:18
Speaker 3: It's filthy.
00:43:19
Speaker 1: Top right of this photo, like a quarter of the photo. It looks really red at the scalp.
00:43:25
Speaker 4: Yeah, that could be because she's either scratched it or.
00:43:27
Speaker 3: She's was it just there? Yeah, I was scratching.
00:43:30
Speaker 1: So that's the irritated like bit of blood.
00:43:32
Speaker 4: Well no, it's just blood that's been brought up to the surface of the scalp.
00:43:35
Speaker 3: Okay, itchy, Like I'm an itchy bitch. I'm constantly scratched.
00:43:39
Speaker 1: Also, you haven't washed. You haven't.
00:43:41
Speaker 3: It's literally been my entire life.
00:43:43
Speaker 1: You haven't washed for four days, and that could cause itchiness of the scalp.
00:43:47
Speaker 4: Can I tell you the thing that causes itchiness the most is oil production. Oh so a lot of people think, you know, oh, I've got nits or I've got like dandro for I've got something else. Oil your hair, Actually, your subaceous glance opening and secreting oil is the most itchiest thing that can happen. So a lot.
00:44:06
Speaker 1: And then you scratch yourself when you bleed.
00:44:08
Speaker 3: Oh I don't actually think I'm bleeding bleeding, no, just blood, but I do. Ever since I was a little kid, I scratch myself so much a bruise often it's weird. Okay, so it's filthy.
00:44:19
Speaker 4: Yeah, Well, you have like a huge amount of clustering. So you have lots of follicles here that have multiple hairs coming out of them, which is really good.
00:44:30
Speaker 3: So like thin, fine hair, but lots of it.
00:44:33
Speaker 4: Yeah, yeah, lots of it. You have very few miniaturized strands. So there's a couple like on a screen this side with this much hair on there. I would you know, it would not be uncommon to see ten or fifteen skinnier hairs, but you probably only have like about three or four. Like they're all pretty chubby.
00:44:52
Speaker 3: It's a good job, okay, Elation, Oh my god.
00:44:57
Speaker 4: If you got it cleaned, I mean you get a gold star? Do I? Actually?
00:45:02
Speaker 1: So? Are you?
00:45:03
Speaker 3: Am I healthy?
00:45:04
Speaker 4: Yeah? Like that's pretty good.
00:45:06
Speaker 1: Kell. You talk a lot about your dry skin. You haven't washed your hair for a lot of the time.
00:45:10
Speaker 4: But would you.
00:45:11
Speaker 1: Normally say your scalp is dry or you don't know.
00:45:15
Speaker 2: Funnily enough, my hair is definitely my scalp is way oilier than my body skin.
00:45:21
Speaker 4: Interesting you say that, though, but you cleanse your skin every day.
00:45:25
Speaker 3: Yes, Cas, exactly.
00:45:29
Speaker 1: We both have we think we have fine hair, so we might feel like our hair is oilier. Is it true that if you do have fine hair, your hair is oilier. Is it just that there's not as much hair to disguise the oil, if that makes sense.
00:45:39
Speaker 4: Yeah, I think that's true. I don't think that, you know, finer hair is oilier. I think your hair is not oilier. I think it's the same as like your your oily mental in your skin, Like people's just produce different things. I think it's more exposed when it's finer, sure, And generally when it's finer, a lot of people touch their hair a bit more, which again you're then combining oils from your hands onto your skin. Sure.
00:46:02
Speaker 1: Yeah, So if you've got a huge, you know, beautiful head of hair that's really thick, I guess the oil's more hidden under all of them. Yeah, the places to just hang out, it's the same.
00:46:09
Speaker 4: Like do you feel when you have your hair straight or when you have it waved? What lasts you longer wave same.
00:46:16
Speaker 1: Because it's not sitting on the oil.
00:46:18
Speaker 4: Agreed. And you also like you don't generally run your hands through your hair when your hair's got a wave or a curl through it, but when it's straight, you do tend to like sort of touch it a bit more.
00:46:27
Speaker 1: Yes, because you put in the effort. It's looking good. Don't touch.
00:46:30
Speaker 4: Yeah, so that's flaky scalp.
00:46:32
Speaker 3: That is like that, Oh, that's dead skin.
00:46:36
Speaker 4: That's the people would probably look at that if that was on your scalp and you didn't have a scope. Obviously, a lot of people would call that dan driff. I would call it possibly leftover product possibly just you know, like because we shed, right, so it's your skin coming away. And that's the other thing. Like a lot of people think that they have dan driff when they actually don't. It can be that they've left product in their hair. They're not shampooing it correctly. A lot of people using anti dandrel shampoos that shouldn't be. Yeah, I wouldn't say the standard you haven't shampooed your hair for four days, Yeah, and you're full of dry shampoo.
00:47:08
Speaker 1: You're disgusting. But my great hair I'm clean, but I'm on the path too.
00:47:14
Speaker 3: But we are ahead of it.
00:47:15
Speaker 2: But maybe let's have a look at the other areas like we did with you. We don't know if the rest of the scalp will be in the same nick.
00:47:22
Speaker 4: So can I ask a question then? So when you do shampoo it, what does that look like?
00:47:27
Speaker 2: Talk me through it to be fair. When it's this foul, I will spend time.
00:47:31
Speaker 3: I'll probably use a scalps grub, my favorite helps to really just get in there and clean it properly. I'll give myself a proper head massage when i'm doing it. I'll also do a second shampoo to get all of the products built up out as well, and then I would put a treatment in.
00:47:47
Speaker 1: Shampooing twice.
00:47:48
Speaker 2: Yeah, always great, Oh my god good. Some people think it's a waste of product, but I'm like that makes sense.
00:47:54
Speaker 4: So think about like this, right. Imagine you've just cooked, you know, something greasy in a pan and you're gonna handle ship hair because you've brought expensive scan pans or whatever. You put a bit of detergent in there, you scrub it with a brush. You don't get lather, right, because that oil is being absorbed by the detergent and it's lifting and removing all of that. Then if you rinse it out and you pop a little bit more and you start to get bubbles, Yeah, and.
00:48:19
Speaker 1: It can really clean. It's removed the oil. Now it's setting the product.
00:48:23
Speaker 4: So my thing is is like your first shampoo will lift all the gung and it attaches. So shampoo has this, you know, the sulfurns the cleaners in there. They have two ends. One of it attaches to dirt and oil and the other one attaches to water. So it will grab all the oil and everything. And then when you rinse it out, you also make sure that you do rinse it out really well. A lot of people think, oh, well I'm doing a second shampoo, I won't be too thorough.
00:48:48
Speaker 1: Well, my first shampoo I do that. I go, oh, that'll do.
00:48:50
Speaker 4: No, rinse it out as well as you can, like imagine it, because you're lifting all that nastiness out and getting rid of it, and then go in with your second one. And you want to be able to feel your fingertips on your scalp too. If you also have thicker hair, it doesn't hurt to sort of part your hair as well, put your head down and get the water right in there, open all that up behind your ears and everything.
00:49:12
Speaker 1: So you said to factants, the cleaning agents have two ends. But are they both the first wash going for the oil or is one in doing oil and one in is doing water?
00:49:21
Speaker 4: Wow? Yeah, yeah, I.
00:49:23
Speaker 3: Didn't know my shampoo was so clever.
00:49:25
Speaker 1: I'm fixturing like one of those two ended screw drivers, and they're like, okay, I'll do this.
00:49:28
Speaker 4: You do that. Yeah kind of yes, But like one's job is to attach all the oil and get all the oil and everything, and another one like attaches to the water and that's how it pulls out of the hair and it comes away.
00:49:40
Speaker 1: So double shampoo, same shampoo both okay.
00:49:42
Speaker 4: Oh yeah, look and sometimes as well, if you're using a tinted shampoo, like now you can get you know, obviously shampoo. You can get purple. You can also get reds, you can get pinks, you can get all the different coinors.
00:49:51
Speaker 1: I do it sometimes between colors. I do a clarifying shampoo, but then I'll do the like shade depositing just for a tiny bit of grape.
00:49:58
Speaker 4: That's best practice. Yeah, that's you want to do because of course that's designed. Shampoos designed to cleanse, so you don't want to use anything that's adding color or adding first Yeah, because then if you repeat with the second shampoo, it's going to pull out of that.
00:50:11
Speaker 1: Okay, let's do Kell and then we have way more questions. I'm desperate to know. Okay, So now Kel is getting her full scan. That one was on the other side. That one was very close. The one near the temple is where Kelly mentioned before that you might get where you noticed hair loss because Kelly and I both wear our hair and a mumbun at home.
00:50:29
Speaker 3: I wear it all the time off.
00:50:32
Speaker 1: Me too, because I can't concentrate if my hair's out, which is strange. Okay, Cas, what are you seeing with the four photos altogether? Filthy?
00:50:40
Speaker 4: Yeah, so she's pretty How old are you?
00:50:43
Speaker 1: Kel?
00:50:44
Speaker 3: Thirty seven?
00:50:45
Speaker 4: Such a baby? So Kel's not showing really any signs of what we'd call your hormonal hair loss. Hormonal hair loss because the hair looks pretty the same on all the screens. So where we've checked the front, the temple, the crown, and the back, the density is pretty the same. You're also probably pretty healthy, like I reckon, Like if we looked at your blood tests. They would be pretty okay because you don't seem to have a lot of miniaturization. Have you noticed anything in the last few years, like do you feel like your hair's finer or it's.
00:51:19
Speaker 3: Just pretty much the same, it's the same.
00:51:21
Speaker 4: Yeah, you're pretty stock standard as far as what what good looks like?
00:51:25
Speaker 3: Like does that look like thirty seven year old hair? Is that where you are?
00:51:28
Speaker 4: Okay?
00:51:28
Speaker 1: Yeah, you haven't hit a ferry train yet. Dirty need dirty hair, But it doesn't look like you've gone into hayy like me. No.
00:51:36
Speaker 2: After the break, we're going to find out if a couple of hair myths are true or false. And we've got your ultimate cheap cheat because we know that we've had a lot of information in this episode, so we'll kind of like try to wrap things up nicely.
00:51:50
Speaker 3: Give you a TLDR if you will.
00:51:53
Speaker 2: Okay, it's time to solve some hair and scalp myths. I have got a paddle. It has a red side and a blue side, so I'm gonna.
00:52:02
Speaker 1: Blue green green for yes.
00:52:04
Speaker 2: Oh, my very word, my brain is still thinking about my follocules. I'm going to hand it over to Cass and Lee and I are gonna quick fire some common myths or and.
00:52:15
Speaker 1: The lovely cass can only say yes or no? All right, are we ready? True or false? Shampooing every day will cause hair loss false. That means true false red false.
00:52:27
Speaker 3: You should only wash your hair once a week.
00:52:29
Speaker 4: False.
00:52:31
Speaker 1: Greasy hair is a sign of an unhealthy scalp.
00:52:34
Speaker 4: False.
00:52:36
Speaker 1: So can you wash your hair daily? Yes, it's best to double shampoo. Yes.
00:52:42
Speaker 3: Washing your hair every day makes it produce more oil.
00:52:45
Speaker 4: False.
00:52:47
Speaker 1: Supplements from the supermarket can help with hair growth.
00:52:50
Speaker 4: Big fat false.
00:52:52
Speaker 1: And unhealthy scalp affects your hair growth.
00:52:57
Speaker 4: True.
00:52:59
Speaker 1: Product bill can suffocate your follicles.
00:53:03
Speaker 4: False.
00:53:05
Speaker 3: You can train your hair to be less oily.
00:53:07
Speaker 4: False.
00:53:09
Speaker 1: Silicons in your products are very bad.
00:53:12
Speaker 4: False.
00:53:13
Speaker 3: Plucking gray hairs makes them grow back thicker.
00:53:16
Speaker 4: False.
00:53:17
Speaker 1: Hair growth scalp serums actually work.
00:53:20
Speaker 4: False.
00:53:22
Speaker 1: Scalp exfoliators could be beneficial.
00:53:25
Speaker 4: True.
00:53:25
Speaker 1: Rosemary oil works for hair growth. Oh look, I thought that was going to be a big fat false.
00:53:35
Speaker 4: There have been a couple of studies, but they were very very very small studies and it didn't give a great outcome. And after year it for twenty years, and the outcome could have been there anyway, had they not used.
00:53:45
Speaker 1: It, led hair masks could be worth the investment, Yes, the right ones.
00:53:51
Speaker 2: Dandruff is caused by not washing hair enough, not necessarily the.
00:53:56
Speaker 1: Term salon quality. Is that a real clarification?
00:54:02
Speaker 4: Yes, however things should be prescribed for you.
00:54:09
Speaker 2: All right, We've got some final quick questions. What is the difference between dry scalp and dandriff?
00:54:16
Speaker 4: Good question. Basically, the lack of oil can be just dry scalp. Dan driff can be flaky. Scalp can be flaky products. Depends on how you call it.
00:54:28
Speaker 1: Really what is dandriff?
00:54:30
Speaker 4: Dandriff can be like just your skin flaking, like regeneration. Right, so it's normal. Some people have less, some people have more. Some people clear it much better?
00:54:42
Speaker 1: Okay, yeah, what causes it though? Like that? Could it be auto?
00:54:46
Speaker 4: Some people are more susceptible. Yeah, so some people will never ever ever have it.
00:54:51
Speaker 1: Do we need to worry about UV affecting our scalp and our hair?
00:54:56
Speaker 4: Yeah? Absolutely, I think like especially things like basil cell carcinoma for example, Like is a really prevalent cancer that you can get on your scalp and it fates your hair color as well, like being out in the sun too much, too So if you're spending money on color, what on a hat?
00:55:14
Speaker 2: Okay, what's the most common mistake people make with their scalp health?
00:55:18
Speaker 4: Ignoring things for too long and trying to home remedy it by asking groups on Facebook or you know, the mums at the coffee club. It's like speak to somebody.
00:55:31
Speaker 1: Who knows and not washing our hair and not washing Yeah, can you overcare for the scalp? Would you clarifying, double cleansing, exfoliating is too much of a good thing?
00:55:39
Speaker 4: Bad? Ah, that's a really good question because like the skin, right, I mean some people have twelve different steps in their skincare routine. I think as long as you're not being counterproductive in the things that you're using, you're using things that are professionally prescribed for you, and you're not just using it for the sake of using it because you think that this is going to grow my hair or fix this prople make sure that you're using it for a reason.
00:56:03
Speaker 1: Not too much. Because I was doing clarifying shampoo, yeah.
00:56:06
Speaker 4: And again, and now we know about yeast and oils and leaving things on the hair. You don't want to be adding oils if you don't have to be because they can cause more problem.
00:56:15
Speaker 2: What is the one thing or two things if you need them that you want ubies to take away from today.
00:56:21
Speaker 4: Don't wait for anything like if you're if you're noticing changes in your hair and scalp, no one knows your hair and scalp better than you. And if you're noticing changes with hair loss, scalp, condition, sensitivity feelings, don't fool fool it away. Don't be like, well it's just because I'm in Perry, just because you know something's happened, go and see somebody, get real answers and act because although we say that it's a long time for changes to happen when it comes to hair loss and things like that, if it's something sinister, things can also happen really quickly. So you want to know what's happening and making informed decisions and the best possible putting the best things in place to correct with us.
00:57:08
Speaker 1: It can be a sign to more absolutely holistic health stuff.
00:57:12
Speaker 2: Okay, so we're going to give you the ultimate cheat sheets, starting off with my biggest takeaway.
00:57:19
Speaker 3: Now I actually have two, I'm gonna cheat.
00:57:21
Speaker 2: So my biggest takeaway is that I don't need to be brushing my hair all the time, and that if I am, then that's a sign that I wasn't combing it properly when I was washing it, which is another thing I've learned about. I really should be washing my hair a lot more. And given that I wash my face twice a day and I sometimes wait a full week to wash my hair, is absolutely repulsive and could be setting me up for foulure long term.
00:57:45
Speaker 3: With my scalp health.
00:57:46
Speaker 1: My key takeaway is the double shampooing, because I say I do that every time, but some well sometimes I feel like I don't need it. And the first one I just kind of barely even rints out. Another takeaway, You know, I thought that we didn't go to bed with wet hair because you know, O Mum told us would get sick or it was just like not comfy to sleep on. But there's yeas and things can grow and that can smell and it's not good and Cass, we're obsessed. I'm sure the U bis are too. Where can they get more of you?
00:58:16
Speaker 4: So? I work own a clinic called Trico Health Clinic. We are online and we have an Instagram. You can follow us at Trico Health Clinic and you can book an appointment. Come and see me face to face or help answer all of your questions.
00:58:31
Speaker 3: Look at your own scalp under the doplack.
00:58:34
Speaker 1: See you next month.
00:58:38
Speaker 2: Mom and Maya acknowledges the traditional owners of the land on which we have recorded this podcast.