When it comes to big-wave personalities, there’s certainly all types, but traditionally, these personalities have been, well…big. There’s the “Are you not impressed?” chest beaters. There’s the incorrigible closeout-slab-hunting hellmen (and women). There’s the egomaniacs. The wanna-be Lairds. The actual Laird. And then there’s a rare gem like San Clemente’s Rusty Long. The quiet-type. The epitome of anti-ego. A guy who’s been rushing in extremely heavy water since his teens (often, with younger brother Greg Long), Rusty’s created a life devoted to big-wave riding, with various homes in strategic big wave zones across the globe. Lucky for us, longtime Rusty-fan and podcast host, Jamie Mitchell, coaxed more than a few words and great stories from the elusive dark horse, himself, in Episode 4. Tune in and enjoy.
0:00: COVID quarantine in Baja, Rusty’s childhood in San Clemente, Teaching water safety to kids, Dad and other lifeguards’ influence in life
14:10: Being a junior lifeguard, Point when Rusty began to surf bigger waves, Pivotal Todos Santos session, Pushing it with brother Greg, Chris Bertish sightings
25:01: The Point when Rusty was fully committed to hunting big waves, Buying Jet Skis, Cortes Bank sessions
32:25: Innovations in big wave surfing, Big wave exploration, Puerto Escondido connection
41:47: Favorite places around the world, Crazy Ireland swell, Great people in raw places, Homes in Madeira and Puerto
52:14: Cycle of West swells, Maverick’s, Wipeout advice at Mav’s
59:46: Current big wave inspirations, Thoughts on the state of big wave surfing, Resurgence of tow surfing, Airs in big waves
1:04:06: The future of big wave surfing, Rusty’s 5-to-Finish Questions
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