OM DENNE EPISODE
In 1976, nine French wine judges did the unthinkable: they blindly selected two California wines over France's most elite vintages in what became known as the Judgment of Paris. This shocking upset sent shockwaves through the wine world and forever changed the global industry. French wine had dominated for centuries, built on a rigid classification system and prestigious terroir, but California winemakers like Warren Winiarski of Stag's Leap and Mike Grgich of Chateau Montelena proved that world-class wines could be produced anywhere with the right combination of climate, soil, and expertise. The tasting was organized by British expat Steven Spurrier, who ran a Paris wine shop and saw the American Bicentennial as a perfect marketing opportunity—but neither he nor the lone reporter in attendance, George Taber of Time magazine, expected California to actually win.
Today's guest is Kevin Ferguson, author and grandson of legendary winemaker Mario Gemello, who ran the Gemello Winery in Mountain View, California for nearly half a century. Ferguson shares the immigrant roots of California's wine industry, including how a $190 loan from the Beltramo family allowed his great-grandfather to bring his family from Piedmont, Italy to America. He discusses the legacy of working-class winemakers like his grandfather, whose 1970 Cabernet finished first in the 25th anniversary re-enactment of the Judgment of Paris, and explores how wineries like Ridge—founded by retired SRI engineers—brought scientific precision to the Santa Cruz Mountains. As we approach the 50th anniversary events in 2026, Ferguson reveals how this single tasting transformed California from an upstart curiosity into a world-class wine region that continues to rival the best of France.
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