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Vanilla is a very familiar flavor for most of us.
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It's so ubiquitous, in fact, that the word is used as a pejorative for anything that is commonplace and mundane.
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But that's not being fair to this fascinating tropical spice, which can display a wide range of expressive aromas and flavors and can be used in unique ways throughout world cuisine.
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In North America and Europe, vanilla is most associated with desserts, pastries, and other sweet treats, to the point that vanilla is often taken to be sweet on its own.
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That assumption is turned on its head in many other global food traditions, however, in which vanilla can be used in savory or spicy dishes.
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Its heady but gentle profile allows it to work in support of a variety of other flavors.
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And it's of interest to this podcast because vanilla is used so extensively in craft chocolate and often in craft beer as well.
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Today we're going to hear from an expert in the science and cultivation of vanilla, as well as a brewer who is working with various single-origin vanillas in his beers to highlight the unique characteristics of each.
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Dr.
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Alan Chambers began studying vanilla in 2016 when he joined the Tropical Research and Education Center at the University of Florida.
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His task was to work with tropical fruit crops to better support growers in southern Florida, and he quickly gained interest and expertise in vanilla as a viable crop for the region.
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My colleague Jesse Bassard recently recommended Dr.
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Chambers to me when I went in search of a vanilla expert, for which I am grateful, because this ended up being a fascinating and informative conversation.
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I started out by asking Dr.
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Chambers to introduce us to the vanilla orchid.
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So vanilla is common around the world, all around the equator.
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The main commercial type is called vanilla planifolia.
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That's its uh genus and species name.
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That comes from Central America, um, from also from Mexico through Central America and even into South America.
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Um, it was cultivated by Native people there, and then as part of the spice trade, actually then migrated around the world to today's major production areas.
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So let's talk a little bit about how vanilla is grown.
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I think this is probably something most people don't know a lot about.
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So tell us how is vanilla cultivated?
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How is it pollinated?
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Things like that.
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Vanilla cultivation is really interesting.
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It is an orchid.
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A lot of people will buy ornamental orchids to grow in their houses.
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Um, vanilla, though, is an edible orchid and it's also a vine.
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Uh, vanilla itself usually is propagated by cuttings.
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So you'll cut off a section of the vine and you'll root that, and that's how you get another plant, and that's a clone.
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So it's identical to the plant you took it from.
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And that's how most commercial propagation is done to get large numbers of plants to grow.
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Those new cuttings need anywhere from three to five years to be large enough where they will actually start to flower.
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And every vanilla flower needs to be manually pollinated.
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Um, that's because in its native areas, in Mexico, Central, and South America, there are what we believe are insect pollinators that will go around and transfer pollen from one flower to another, leading to bean development.
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Though even in the natural areas, it's not a very efficient process, is our understanding.
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And then you take the plant outside of its native area, and there are not native pollinators.
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And so those have to be manually done using something, a small stick like a toothpick.
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And so people will go through the plantations or the vanillaries and pollinate individual flowers every day for a number of weeks during the flowering season.
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And then eight to nine months later, the beans are mature, ready to pick.
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And then they will go through a uh harvesting process, curing, eventual shipment back to places like the United States or the European Union.
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And then it's extracted and then sold to consumers and as ingredients for the products we love.
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That sounds like a very labor-intensive process.
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How many flowers are we talking about that laborers are going through and pollinating daily?
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Tens to hundreds of thousands of flowers.
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Um, one flower will give you one vanilla bean, with beans being a couple of grams each.
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And we're producing, you know, over 10,000 tons a year.
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A lot of, a lot of beans, a lot of flowers, though uh much of agriculture does rely on large-scale massive production and trying to keep the uh you know prices down through efficiencies at whatever at whatever steps
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Is that what leads to the incredible expense of vanilla and why this is such an expensive spice?
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I wouldn't say that the the actual cultivation of vanilla is what makes makes it expensive.
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It's probably more related to some of the archaic development or lack of development for the for the crop.
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So I'm a firm believer in the application of technology to make our crop plants affordable, safe, and nutritious.
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Vanilla seems to be one that just hasn't received um large-scale attention for decades, like so many of our temperate crops in terms of plant breeding or even innovations in the way the plant is grown.
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And so that was some of where our work focused.
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Vanilla also struggles with perennial problems that have to do with supply restrictions.
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So a major weather event can knock out a significant portion of the global supply, which drives prices up.
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When prices go high, lots of people will plant new vanilla vanillaries, and then those take a number of years to start producing.
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And then there's an oversupply of vanilla peans, and so prices drop, leading to other problems.
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And so the cyclical nature of boom and bust really creates problems for both the consumer in the end, but then also people that are buying the beans making the vanilla extract.
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So it's it's not purely a genetic problem.
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It's not a necessarily a growing problem, but it's it's because of how international trade is managed in response to severe weather events and drought and things like that.
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You mentioned uh the curing process after harvest.
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What is that post-harvest processing like and what does it involve?
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Yeah, so a green vanilla bean doesn't have any real flavor or aroma to it.
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Maybe a little bit of grassy is what you would get from it.
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It has all the potential to make a delicious bean, but it has to be encouraged.
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Um, this in nature might be a way for the vanilla bean to attract pollinators to come and sample whatever the aroma is, but then also disperse the seeds in order to propagate the species.
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Uh, for humans, what we'll end up doing is picking the green beans, and then there's a series of thermal treatments that we'll apply to the bean that basically disrupts the cells in the bean so that enzymes can find the right molecules that will give you flavor that makes the bean smell great.
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And so you apply heat and humidity and time.
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And when in the end, what you get are those wrinkled brown beans that you can see online or in the store that have that really nice vanilla aroma.
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You mentioned you're an advocate for the use of technology, but I'm sure there's a range of ways this has been done traditionally.
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Would normally this would the beans just be laid out in the sun, or what are some of the other more traditional methods?
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Yeah, vanilla curing, there's a there's a few general ways that vanilla is cured.
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There's what's called the bourbon or traditional method.
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This comes out of Madagascar, where most of the world's vanilla comes from.
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This includes a hot water bath treatment.
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So high temperature water is first done to scald the beans or blanching them, you might call that, um, in other places.
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And then high humidity and temperature is maintained in the beans for a couple of days, and then they're put onto racks and they're slowly dried over a period of months.
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In Madagascar, where labor is cheap, they'll actually physically move these large screened boxes inside and outside every day to slowly dry down the beans.
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Then there are other countries where they're trying to automate this process to get more control over the final product.
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So you can take a green vanilla bean, treat it improperly, and get garbage out at the other end.
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But if you are able to control some of those parameters of temperature and time and humidity, you can take beans that have a high potential to be delicious and then make sure you have a great product.
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And so some of this is done through controlled environment rooms where the temperature and humidity are controlled in large batches, and that helps with the uniformity of the product.
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And we're seeing some of that work in Tanzania as well as some of the islands in the Caribbean.
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How far back do we have evidence of indigenous populations working with vanilla?
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And there's some fascinating publications on the history of vanilla, going back to the Totonac people, the Aztecs, even, and then as part of the Spanish spice trade as they were moving through the area there.
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Um, there's evidence that these native people were using vanilla in some of their beverages, usually reserved for royalty.
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Um, but even still, there are vanilla species that are not available on the international market that are still used by local people as part of their regular diets to flavor different things, their foods, their beverages.
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With the work you're doing to improve some of the agricultural practices with vanilla, what do you feel that someone in your position can learn from an indigenous population or a traditional uh method of working with vanilla?
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Yeah, one of our biggest challenges is we don't know what we don't know in vanilla.
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And so there's so much diversity out there and so many different uses of vanilla that we can learn from, you know, local people, native peoples all through North, Central, and South America.
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And what the crop means to them, I think, is uh it makes it a little more romantic.
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People like to understand where their food comes from and a little bit of history.
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I think it makes it more interesting of a story.
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But at the same time, we can benefit from hundreds, if not thousands, of years of cultivation practices, hopefully to make a sustainable route for us going forward.
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On a chemical and sensory level, what is the flavor of vanilla?
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What are we tasting?
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Uh, the primary flavor of vanilla is vanilla.
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Um, this is uh replicated synthetically for when you buy artificial vanilla flavor.
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That's primarily vanillin with a little bit of brown color wherever that comes from.
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Um, you can also get it in clear versions.
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Whereas if you're getting vanilla extract from the bean, it's a bouquet of dozens, if not hundreds, of different flavor compounds.
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And all of those work together to give you a much more rounded vanilla flavor.
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Um, and that's why people pay a little bit more for it, is because it's got this more full, more rich, and it's it's a better sensory experience for a lot of people.
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In the same way that a grape or an orange soda doesn't necessarily remind you of the fruit itself.
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Uh, we can look at the same way between the synthetic as well compared to the natural botanically derived vanilla flavor.
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Is that synthetic vanilla uh chemically identical to what is actually coming from the plant?
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To to a part of it, yes.
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So in the vanilla extract, you'll have dozens or hundreds of odorants.
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And the primary one is vanilla, which is going to be chemically identical at the molecular level to the synthetic.
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The synthetic is usually derived from petrochemicals or through some other feedstock, maybe um maybe a waste product from a paper mill industry where you get a very cheap starting material.
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It goes through some type of process.
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And in the end, you are uh purifying pure vanilla.
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You mentioned that the raw beans don't really have much aroma.
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What is actually happening that is expressing all of those chemicals that are aroma active at the end?
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The vanilla bean and or the vanilla plant is more interested in dispersing of its seeds than it necessarily is in making maybe our ice creams and baked goods taste delicious.
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And so it's about timing for the plant.
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What the plant needs to do is to make sure that its seeds are ready to be dispersed into the environment.
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So if it attracts something to eat, say the bean, before the seeds are ready, now those seeds aren't going to have a chance to be dispersed and to grow into new plants.
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And so the plant itself is preparing the bean to develop all those flavors by keeping enzymes and what the enzymes turn into the aroma compounds separated.
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You might think of this like one of those glow sticks that you buy in the store, you crack them.
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It's only when you crack it you get the glow.
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And so it's at the right place at the right time.
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I want to get this light from the glow stick.
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The vanilla bean does the same thing by putting two different compounds or enzymes or whatever in different places.
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And then when it's ready to be ripened, the seeds are ready, and then it breaks, you know, almost physically that separation.
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And now you get the evolution of flavor.
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That's fascinating.
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You mentioned the one primary uh genetic variant that that provides most of our commercial vanilla.
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What are some of the different genetic variations or regional variations that you might see?
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So there are over a hundred vanilla species around the world, different colors, shapes, sizes.
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There are leafless species, which are just these green stems growing.
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Um, we have four native species in southern Florida where I was doing this research.
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Some that sprawl over the mangroves, full sun, very salty environment, and yet they're still able to grow there, which is absolutely amazing.
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There are also non-aromatic species, and so you'll cure the beans, and there's no flavor that comes out of them whatsoever.
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So they don't rely on those aroma compounds to disperse their seeds.
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Outside of vanilla plantfolia, there are a few other, a few other species that do produce a nice vanilla extract.
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So one of those is vanilla tahitensis.
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So this is an aromatic type that is commercially approved, and you can find this usually online.
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It's a little more rare than say in your local grocery store.
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And then there's vanilla pompona, which is even more rare, which gives you a unique sensory profile.
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Some people describe it as a little more raisin-y.
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Uh, to me, it tastes more sweet than the other, the typical type, which is one of the ones I prefer.
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Um, there's also vanilla odorata, which as its name implies, gives a nice flavor profile with some more anise flavor notes, which you can distinctly tell these apart if you were to have them all in front of you.
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And that's just a small sampling of the various opportunities that are out there for niche and novel vanilla flavor.
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Vanilla, of course, is grown in many different countries around the world, as you mentioned earlier.
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Are those are the main commercial varieties all the same main variant and they're just getting different characteristics from the soil and the environment?
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Or what accounts for the differences between those?
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Most of the vanilla grown around the world is clonally descended from early foundational clones.
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So what that means is someone took one plant from Central America a few hundred years ago and then propagated it.
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And then most of what's being grown is clonally, genetically identical or near-identical stalks from those original clones, which has a lot of risk associated with it.
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Um, that helps in some ways with having a uniform production system because most of the plants act the same.
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While there might be some small differences based on geography, mostly we see genetics driving a lot of those differences.
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So vanilla tahitensis is actually a hybrid between the main commercial type and odorata, which is also aromatic.
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And then that is grown as a clone, uh, especially in Tahiti and Indonesia through there.
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And that gives you a very distinct flavor.
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Whereas if you were to grow that in Madagascar, it probably still tastes very much like tahitensis, even though you're growing it under a plant of folia intense culture.
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How environmentally uh sensitive are the sensory characteristics of vanilla?
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Like if you were to take a you know a genetic clone and move it in different places, would you notice those differences after harvest?
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The differences taking one vanilla plant and growing it different places might be a little more subtle.
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Um, and what we'd anticipate is that some of the ratios of the major flavor compounds would would probably stay similar.
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Uh, the relative abundance, though, can be impacted from anything from watering to solar radiation to nutrient availability.
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Uh, whether the average consumer would be able to tell a difference in that, like they do in wine, to say, oh, this tastes reminiscent of this region versus another.
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I don't believe we're there in vanilla yet, though I know people are interested in what impacts that can have in creating a regional specific product that can then support different geographies.
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Talk a little bit about the challenges you're facing trying to uh develop cultivation of vanilla in southern Florida.
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Cultivation of vanilla in southern Florida is challenging specifically because it was new.
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Every step along the way was challenging because we couldn't just order up 10,000 or 100,000 plants to start with.
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And when we did start, we found a number of unanticipated challenges, including um the prevalence of viruses.
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And the viruses can kill the plant, but generally they weaken them and they're usually don't they don't display symptoms until the plant starts to die.
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So we had to find clean material, we had to find material that would grow well in our environment.
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So Southern Florida is distinct in its growing environment from, say, Mexico or Madagascar or India.
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And so we had to screen a lot of material to figure out what would do well under our climate and what produced large beans, good number of beans, and beans with a good flavor.
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After all of that work, only then could we start to figure out okay, how do we get tens of thousands of these plants so that a grower who's interested could put in an acre or five acres of vanilla?
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And then we were also at the same time working on how do you grow the plant?
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How do you keep it healthy?
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What risks are there associated with hurricanes or drought or pests or diseases?
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And really the only way to figure this out is empirically, you have to be there actually growing the plants and watching them to figure out what problems you're going to encounter.
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What are these plants like in the field?
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I
mean, are they are they grown in rows?
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Is it a climbing vine?
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What is that actually like?
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Most vanilla is grown under what's called a tutor tree system.
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And so you'll go into a forested area and then grow vanilla on the trunks of various trees or bushes.
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So vanilla is a shade-loving plant.
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And they'll let the plant grow up to about, you know, five feet or two meters or so, and then they'll loot the plant back down to the soil and go up again the tree.
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So you'll get these tufts of vanilla vines around a support structure.
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That works well in a lot of places, but in southern Florida, where land is extremely expensive, we need a higher density than that in order to meet our price needs.
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So in southern Florida, what you will see is an artificial shade canopy.
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This is a screen cloth, like you would see on your windows to keep insects out.
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And then by changing the amount of material, you can vary the amount of light that's the plants are actually receiving.
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So that can be optimized.
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And then you'll see these grown on wire trellises.
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Um, so if you've ever seen how grapes are grown or passion fruit, uh the vines will be supported on these wire trellises at much higher density.
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And it's also easier to get to the plants because they're in nice clean rows.
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Reminds me of how hops are grown for brewing.
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So many crops, exactly, are grown with a minimal support structure and then in nice rows so that you can access your crop.
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Would Florida naturally be in the latitudinal band for vanilla to be able to grow, or is there an additional challenge with that?
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Growing in Florida is convenient because we do have those native species.
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So we know that it is a suitable environment for at least some species.
00:23:07.059 --> 00:23:12.019
Every growing environment has different risks associated for agriculture.
00:23:12.180 --> 00:23:17.220
And that's true if you're in Kansas or if you're in Brazil or if you're in Germany.
00:23:17.619 --> 00:23:20.740
So it's about understanding those risks and minimizing them.
00:23:20.900 --> 00:23:28.579
So, for example, in Mexico, one of the biggest challenges they face, at least in the published literature, is reported to be uh drought.
00:23:28.740 --> 00:23:33.859
In southern Florida, we have too much water from rain, from the canals.
00:23:34.019 --> 00:23:35.539
There's an excess of water.
00:23:35.700 --> 00:23:37.299
So drought isn't really
a problem.
00:23:37.460 --> 00:23:42.660
It's accessible, it's easy to it's easy to pump and to take care of your plants with water.
00:23:42.980 --> 00:23:46.900
Um, hurricanes are a problem or cyclones in Madagascar.
00:23:47.059 --> 00:23:48.980
Hurricanes are a problem in Florida.
00:23:49.220 --> 00:23:58.579
One of the nice things is that usually hurricane damage is at least in groves and trees, you start seeing that at plants that are 10, 12, and 15 feet.
00:23:58.819 --> 00:24:00.980
Vanilla is kept well below that.
00:24:01.140 --> 00:24:05.539
While the shade structure might be damaged, usually the vines do just fine in high winds.
00:24:05.700 --> 00:24:10.099
Probably the Biggest challenges that you'll see in a place like Florida will be theft.
00:24:10.259 --> 00:24:14.019
So vanilla is a very valuable target for thieves.
00:24:14.259 --> 00:24:28.740
And we see that with other high-value crops like sapote, mame, uh, mango, um, especially when you've got our an agricultural area right next to a major city like Miami, there can be some spillover and challenges there.
00:24:28.980 --> 00:24:31.619
And so every region is distinct with its challenges.
00:24:31.700 --> 00:24:36.900
It's about managing those and then trying to put the best science forward to mitigate risk.
00:24:37.220 --> 00:24:39.299
I never would have thought about theft.
00:24:39.460 --> 00:24:44.099
Is that organized in any way, or is that just individuals being opportunistic?
00:24:44.740 --> 00:24:47.859
Well, so and theft is a problem in Madagascar.
00:24:47.940 --> 00:24:51.059
It's a problem in Hawaii where vanilla is grown.
00:24:51.299 --> 00:24:56.819
I uh once asked a vanilla grower in Hawaii what his biggest pest problem was, and he told me it was humans.
00:24:57.059 --> 00:25:01.859
So there's there's a certain level of this opportunism for for theft.
00:25:02.019 --> 00:25:11.059
Um, it is a it is a perennial problem, especially in Madagascar, where the land is more communal in terms of access to and from.
00:25:11.380 --> 00:25:24.579
And so someone going through a field, it's convenient enough for them to snatch on their way through with very little risk, high opportunities to sell that product, even if it's below uh normal cost.
00:25:25.299 --> 00:25:28.420
And that's going to be the same in southern Florida.
00:25:28.579 --> 00:25:36.019
While security might be less expensive relatively in southern Florida, it still is going probably to be a problem.
00:25:36.500 --> 00:25:41.859
Are any of the native Florida varieties commercially viable?
00:25:42.019 --> 00:25:44.420
Could that can they be adapted in any way?
00:25:45.059 --> 00:25:54.099
We look more at the native Florida vanilla species as ways to learn from nature, to learn from the genetics that they possess.
00:25:54.339 --> 00:25:58.420
So, for example, vanilla phayantha is one of our native species.
00:25:58.579 --> 00:26:07.059
It does make an aromatic pot, but I'm not aware of any local people, native people that actually use it in their food.
00:26:07.220 --> 00:26:10.339
While that might be the case, I'm just not aware of any.
00:26:10.500 --> 00:26:14.259
So there might be some food health concerns there, some food safety concerns.
00:26:14.420 --> 00:26:21.460
Um, vanilla faantha, though, is resistant to one of the major fungal pathogens that infects vanilla plantifolia.
00:26:21.539 --> 00:26:27.700
So we start to wonder if that genetic resistance can be transferred to vanilla planofolia.
00:26:28.099 --> 00:26:37.299
There's also another species, vanilla mexicana, that is self-pollinating, doesn't require an insect or anyone to go in there with a toothpick to pollinate the flower.
00:26:37.539 --> 00:26:50.019
That trait alone could be hugely valuable to vanilla plantifolia if you can figure out how vanilla mexicana is able to do that uniquely among the vanilla species and then transfer that into vanilla plantifolia.
00:26:50.259 --> 00:26:54.500
At the same time, vanilla mexicana is very challenging to work with.
00:26:54.579 --> 00:26:55.779
It's a very sensitive plant.
00:26:55.859 --> 00:27:00.019
It is endangered, so you can't legally work with it or collect it unless you have permits.
00:27:00.579 --> 00:27:03.140
Um, it's also non-aromatic.
00:27:03.220 --> 00:27:09.220
So the bean doesn't produce any flavor, so not really useful in terms of extract, but it is beautiful.
00:27:09.299 --> 00:27:12.500
So very interesting species in terms of its ornamental value.
00:27:12.660 --> 00:27:18.660
So mostly we look at the natives for what we can learn from them, not necessarily for a commercial product on their own.
00:27:18.980 --> 00:27:23.220
What do you think is most commonly misunderstood about vanilla in the general public?
00:27:23.940 --> 00:27:47.700
One of the biggest misconceptions about vanilla, I would think, is the reason that it is expensive or the challenges that have to be solved to get a product to the consumer in a cute little bottle that's safe and relatively affordable, as well as the understanding of how many people's lives are touched by a natural product like vanilla extract.
00:27:47.859 --> 00:27:58.420
Um, the people at the grocery store, the wholesaler, the, you know, and then going beyond that to the collectors, the growers, and all the families that that supports.
00:27:58.660 --> 00:28:03.859
It's amazing with that small bottle, how many people's livelihoods that supports.
00:28:04.019 --> 00:28:06.900
And I think that's part of the how fascinating it is.
00:28:07.059 --> 00:28:14.980
As well as the rich history of vanilla, it seems that as soon as we found vanilla as part of Western culture, it was distributed everywhere.
00:28:15.140 --> 00:28:18.900
I think there's just something in our DNA that really likes vanilla.
00:28:18.980 --> 00:28:30.819
And so I think it's got this nice staying power as well as a rich history for how it moved around the world and really captured our attention in
terms of what it can do to make our food more delicious.
00:28:31.140 --> 00:28:44.339
Talking about how many lives are touched, looking at other crops that grow in some of these same regions like cacao and coffee, you have a lot of ethical and social concerns around farmers being paid, laborers being taken care of.
00:28:44.500 --> 00:28:46.819
Do we see similar issues like that in vanilla?
00:28:47.380 --> 00:28:54.579
Vanilla certainly has similar um issues as well as accountability for sustainability and fair wages.
00:28:54.740 --> 00:28:58.019
Um, a lot of this work is being targeted in Madagascar.
00:28:58.339 --> 00:29:09.299
I think historically, a lot of these very large multinational companies have invested significantly in Madagascar, in Malagasy schools, in supply chains.
00:29:09.380 --> 00:29:12.500
There's also some very real challenges that are still there.
00:29:12.819 --> 00:29:34.339
Um, but understanding the whole supply chain, it's very complicated trying to get a product from Madagascar to the United States or the European Union, and then how you can make that equitable to make sure that the farmer at the very base level is able to improve their livelihood, to make sure they've got food on the table to send their kids to school.
00:29:34.500 --> 00:29:56.500
And I think that that's been garnering increasing attention over the previous years, especially as you look at things like cacao and coffee, very similar stories of what would be a minor burden to the average consumer in a Western nation could have a significant impact for the livelihood of a number of these growers.
00:29:57.059 --> 00:30:06.339
Looking at cacao specifically, given that they originate in the same area and can be grown in similar areas, and this is a tree, can they be co-cropped at all?
00:30:07.140 --> 00:30:11.299
I do know some people that are looking to co-crop vanilla and cacao.
00:30:11.380 --> 00:30:22.500
Um, one of the challenges is the cacao pod is formed on the hard tissue of the cacao tree or and the vanilla that's exactly where the vine grows as well.
00:30:22.740 --> 00:30:26.180
So you you can't compete for the same physical space.
00:30:26.420 --> 00:30:36.180
We are we have a number of people that are looking at vanilla production under normal agroforestry systems, avocados would be a good one because they're not competing for the same space.
00:30:36.339 --> 00:30:40.660
Um, but usually, you know, growers are very creative people all around the world.
00:30:40.740 --> 00:30:47.700
And if they see a piece of their real estate where they can get a you know additional revenue on that, we see that type of exploration.
00:30:47.779 --> 00:30:51.460
And then they're the ones who are teaching us this worked, this didn't work.
00:30:51.619 --> 00:30:54.180
It'd be interesting if we could dig deeper into this.
00:30:54.579 --> 00:31:00.339
Has cacao entered into any of your interest in tropical crops for southern Florida?
00:31:00.660 --> 00:31:02.980
I would certainly love to work with cacao.
00:31:03.140 --> 00:31:07.460
Unfortunately, it is too cold in the winter in southern Florida for most cacao.
00:31:07.779 --> 00:31:15.140
Uh, there are a few species that are truly tropical that we we can't economically produce in southern Florida.
00:31:15.380 --> 00:31:17.619
And uh cacao is one of those.
00:31:17.859 --> 00:31:19.940
Breadfruit is another.
00:31:20.099 --> 00:31:29.059
Um, there's a handful of others out there that the climate really doesn't justify the risk of uh any type of major investment, though.
00:31:29.140 --> 00:31:38.180
At the the hobbyists homeowner level, sure, there are people that have those, but you get a freeze event or even chilly temperatures, it really damages those tropical plants.
00:31:39.140 --> 00:31:45.859
Finally, why have you devoted so much of your time to vanilla, besides just, you know, it's part of your job?
00:31:46.099 --> 00:31:47.140
What do you love about this?
00:31:47.299 --> 00:31:49.460
What do you find so interesting about it?
00:31:50.099 --> 00:31:53.299
Vanilla really is just a fascinating species.
00:31:53.460 --> 00:31:54.579
Um, it's addictive.
00:31:54.740 --> 00:32:15.140
When you get into something like that, um, the rich history, the huge potential, as well as the fact that I'm a heavy user of vanilla extract, especially now, um, it's easy to get passionate about something like that and to feel like I'm contributing to the body of scientific literature as well as livelihoods.
00:32:15.380 --> 00:32:31.859
Um, while I could be focused on growers in southern Florida, what I would hope is that through my networks and the research that we're publishing is that we could benefit growers wherever they are and other researchers as well, taking the tools that we develop and then using that to improve livelihoods.
00:32:32.019 --> 00:32:38.819
And there's not that many crops where you can really go from zero to something amazing in such a short period of time.
00:32:38.900 --> 00:32:41.059
And vanilla is certainly one of those.
00:32:41.380 --> 00:32:45.700
As a heavy user, do you have a vanilla that you reach for most often?
00:32:46.180 --> 00:32:46.660
I do.
00:32:46.740 --> 00:32:57.140
So my my personal stash includes uh vanilla plantifolia, which I got from Madagascar when I was there, vanilla pompona, also from Madagascar.
00:32:57.220 --> 00:33:00.740
That's my go-to for when I've I've got a special event or when I'm down.
00:33:00.819 --> 00:33:02.019
That's what I go to.
00:33:02.180 --> 00:33:07.140
And I also have vanilla tahitensis, which my wife and some of my kids prefer.
00:33:07.220 --> 00:34:30.910
But for me, vanilla pompona is my my go-to at this time.
00:34:31.230 --> 00:34:32.510
And is that a variety?
00:34:32.670 --> 00:34:37.309
Is that something that most people would probably be able to access where they are?
00:34:38.030 --> 00:34:42.670
You you can purchase vanilla pompona online from a few reputable
sellers.
00:34:42.910 --> 00:34:50.670
You don't see the extract, it has not been granted what we what is called grass status or generally recognized as safe.
00:34:50.990 --> 00:34:54.990
Food safety is very challenging again, because you don't know what you don't know.
00:34:55.070 --> 00:35:08.030
And so, in general, if you look at foods that have been consumed for hundreds of years, we generally recognize them as safe because so many people have eaten it for so long, we assume it's mostly safe, right?
00:35:08.510 --> 00:35:15.150
And so this is what is present for things like vanilla plantifolia and vanilla telutensis.
00:35:15.389 --> 00:35:25.309
But for vanilla pompona, we don't have that status where you can legally sell it as vanilla pompona extract because it hasn't been granted that status.
00:35:25.389 --> 00:35:36.270
And that's true for a number of different, mostly wild rare plants, but certainly vanilla pompona is consumed by Native peoples all around the world.
00:35:36.430 --> 00:35:40.910
So I thought it was relatively risk-free for my own self, especially because it is delicious.
00:35:41.070 --> 00:35:41.230
Yeah.
00:35:41.390 --> 00:35:44.670
So you grow these yourself at your home, I assume?
00:35:44.990 --> 00:35:45.470
We do.
00:35:45.550 --> 00:35:47.550
Um, so we've got them at the research center.
00:35:47.630 --> 00:35:49.630
We we have vanilla pompona at the research center.
00:35:49.710 --> 00:35:58.110
We also have growers that are interested in vanilla pompona, even with the challenges associated with the lack of this legal definition.
00:35:58.510 --> 00:36:01.870
You cannot call vanilla pompona extract.
00:36:02.030 --> 00:36:08.510
You cannot call it vanilla extract because the legal definition only allows plantifolia and tuhetensis.
00:36:08.910 --> 00:36:15.150
But again, growers in southern Florida are excited about new, novel, and niche opportunities.
00:36:15.390 --> 00:36:18.110
And so pompona is an interesting species.
00:36:18.190 --> 00:36:19.070
It grows fast.
00:36:19.150 --> 00:36:24.110
The beans are large, it's resistant to fungal problems that plague vanilla plantifolia.
00:36:24.270 --> 00:36:25.470
So they think, why not?
00:36:25.630 --> 00:36:35.550
So then we go back again to zero and say, here's a collection of different clones we've collected, which ones grow the best, and then make those available to our growers to experiment with.
00:36:37.310 --> 00:36:44.110
I know it's a very real problem that is causing headaches for growers, but I am fascinated by the idea of vanilla theft.
00:36:44.430 --> 00:36:49.230
The fact that people are sneaking onto farms to engage in vanilla heists is just wild.
00:36:49.630 --> 00:36:57.790
I did some digging online after our conversation and found that this is a major problem in a lot of places where vanilla is grown, including Mexico and Madagascar.
00:36:58.110 --> 00:37:01.070
That wasn't something I was aware of at all before this conversation.
00:37:02.030 --> 00:37:09.470
Vanilla gets used extensively these days in craft brewing, most commonly in dessert-inspired pastry stouts and related beers.
00:37:10.110 --> 00:37:17.070
These beers often include cacao, coffee, or other baking spices, so vanilla fits right in as a familiar flavor note.
00:37:17.630 --> 00:37:28.030
But because of its intended role in support of other flavors in these beers, most brewers are looking for a classic, recognizable flavor most people would just know as vanilla.
00:37:28.430 --> 00:37:34.190
But some brewers are highlighting the nuances of single origin vanillas by showcasing them in specific beers.
00:37:34.990 --> 00:37:43.470
At the 2023 Denver Rare Beer Tasting, I got in a conversation with Sean Bucken, the founder and head brewer at Denver Cerebral Brewing.
00:37:43.950 --> 00:37:54.990
Sean was pouring vanilla rye Herebee Monsters, a 14.5% Imperial stout aged in rye whiskey barrels and conditioned on a blend of multiple single-origin vanillas.
00:37:55.310 --> 00:38:04.830
The beer was a liquid tribute to the amazing vanilla orchid, and I recently reached out to Sean to talk more about this beer and his other beers highlighting specific vanillas.
00:38:04.990 --> 00:38:09.310
At the outset, I asked him to tell us about vanilla rye Here We Monsters.
00:38:09.790 --> 00:38:12.430
So that's the second time we've done that beer.
00:38:12.510 --> 00:38:21.230
Um both have been a little bit different in terms of the base spirit barrels that we used, and then we did switch the vanillas out uh each time.
00:38:21.390 --> 00:38:27.870
I mean, in part because we like trying new products and we're always exploring new vanilla varietals.
00:38:27.950 --> 00:38:32.110
So it was nice for us to kind of get a showcase of uh three new ones.
00:38:32.269 --> 00:38:47.630
The first time we did that batch, it was, if I'm not mistaken, Madagascar, Tahitian, and Ugandan, trying to play in a lot of different flavor profiles and blend so that um we could really create the most unique vanilla experience possible.
00:38:47.710 --> 00:38:58.590
And then this time we used uh Peruvian, Hawaiian, and Marquesis Islands vanilla in a base imperial stout that we aged in Thomas Handy Sazerac barrels for 31 months.
00:38:58.830 --> 00:39:06.110
So using all those different origins, let's talk a little bit about the variations in those and the flavors and aromas that you're gonna get.
00:39:06.190 --> 00:39:12.269
I think when most people hear vanilla, they have one particular thing in mind just from you know typical baking use.
00:39:12.670 --> 00:39:17.390
Talk a little bit about some of the differences in the sensory characteristics of those origins.
00:39:17.790 --> 00:39:22.350
I mean, we kind of went into it thinking the same thing when we first got into using vanilla.
00:39:22.430 --> 00:39:30.510
Um, I'm not a baker, so I'm not, you know, I didn't have that background knowing that there was dozens of varietals out there for us
to choose from.
00:39:30.750 --> 00:39:37.390
But in in terms of the first batch that we used, I think that was the the most clear distinction between varietals.
00:39:37.790 --> 00:39:46.110
Um Madagascar vanilla is by all accounts pretty much what what anybody would uh imagine when they're thinking vanilla.
00:39:46.269 --> 00:39:53.630
It's you know, it's sweet, it's creamy, uh, it's give you a little bit of that marshmallowy vanilla, but it's not over the top.
00:39:53.790 --> 00:39:55.630
I think it kind of hits all notes.
00:39:55.870 --> 00:40:02.750
Uh Ugandan is a really cool one in that it offers some depth and woody notes.
00:40:02.910 --> 00:40:14.670
I always think of it as uh like a milk chocolate raisinette because you get some really dark fruit in there, um mixed with some of what you would normally associate with vanilla.
00:40:14.990 --> 00:40:21.390
And then the Tahitian is more um, to me at least, like the inside of an Oreo.
00:40:21.630 --> 00:40:27.710
It's got that like cookies and cream um character that that we love to use.
00:40:27.950 --> 00:40:32.590
Um I mean, honestly, all of those are are on the top of our list.
00:40:32.830 --> 00:40:38.990
But for the the second batch, we we have a provider, uh Jones and Co.
00:40:39.230 --> 00:40:42.910
out of, I believe they're out of California, that they source from all over the world.
00:40:42.990 --> 00:40:52.269
And we took four of their five plus rated vanillas and we put one pound into each oak barrel that we used.
00:40:52.510 --> 00:40:58.110
And ultimately one of those vanillas didn't end up making the cut into that final beer.
00:40:58.190 --> 00:41:00.430
Uh, nothing against that vanilla origin.
00:41:00.670 --> 00:41:08.350
It was just a little too uh, it came across as very perfumey, and it just wasn't what we were going for in that base beer.
00:41:08.590 --> 00:41:11.390
But that was the first time that we'd used a lot of those vanillas.
00:41:11.630 --> 00:41:21.470
So we were kind of going in blind, and I think from memory, we really liked the the Peruvian, it was a really big bean.
00:41:21.550 --> 00:41:26.269
Like the bean size changes so significantly between origins, that was surprising as well.
00:41:26.510 --> 00:41:38.110
But it had so much of that vanilla caviar on the inside, but we also got a little bit of spice from it, like almost a little bit of baking spice, something that you'd associate with like Mexican hot chocolate.
00:41:38.269 --> 00:41:41.070
Uh, so we really like that depth on the back end.
00:41:41.230 --> 00:41:54.190
The Hawaiian also came across as more of a of a brighter vanilla for us, something maybe a cross between how we associate the uh Tahitian and the Madagascar.
00:41:54.510 --> 00:41:57.950
And it just kind of covered that that top note for us in this beer.
00:41:58.030 --> 00:42:01.870
And then the Marques Islands was really just that cream, yeah.
00:42:02.030 --> 00:42:08.590
I guess that like marshmallow depth and like cream filling is how I describe it.
00:42:09.390 --> 00:42:22.030
Do you find that the aromas that you get from the vanilla itself, as just holding it in your hand, comes through pretty directly in the beer, or is that change at all in the process?
00:42:22.990 --> 00:42:24.190
It's pretty direct.
00:42:24.350 --> 00:42:29.950
Um, the the one that we used, it was a Guatemalan bean, and it was a really, really great bean.
00:42:30.030 --> 00:42:30.670
It smelled great.
00:42:30.750 --> 00:42:33.070
We've used it in other projects, and it turned out well.
00:42:33.150 --> 00:42:42.990
Um, for you know, whatever the case was, uh it just came off as really perfumey and had like almost like an extracty alcohol note to it in the beer.
00:42:43.150 --> 00:42:50.590
So I can't, you know, I don't know that one, but the um the other ones for what it's worth, I feel like it's a pretty direct one-to-one.
00:42:51.150 --> 00:42:58.910
So when you're blending multiple different origins together, does that does that kind of iron out some of those differences?
00:42:59.070 --> 00:43:04.510
I mean, what what goes into selecting a different blend of those rather than just a single origin?
00:43:05.470 --> 00:43:06.350
Yeah, it can.
00:43:06.510 --> 00:43:10.590
I think uh we always look at it and and we do trial blends on these two.
00:43:10.830 --> 00:43:20.110
So a lot of them uh we will do individual oak barrels dosed with a vanilla bean so we can really get a good idea of what we're getting out of that bean.
00:43:20.269 --> 00:43:34.910
Tend to go on the lighter end in dosing and then just use time as our extraction tool so we can kind of pull it when we get the character that we want instead of overdosing and you know there's no real correction there.
00:43:35.230 --> 00:43:44.510
So yeah, I think that we do the the multiple uh blends quite often, and I think more often than not, we're actually just getting more character.
00:43:44.750 --> 00:43:49.150
I don't really find that it that it like flattens them all out.
00:43:49.310 --> 00:43:56.430
It can if you go too far or you use vanilla beans that do not work very compatibly.
00:43:56.590 --> 00:44:04.990
I think if you have some that are all achieving a very similar flavor profile, you're gonna get a pretty flat vanilla character in that in that space.
00:44:05.150 --> 00:44:25.470
But if you're really looking for that like cream note, a little bit of that like classic marshmallow that people always want out of vanilla, but a little bit of those complementary wood, leather, tobacco, chocolate characters that you can actually get out of vanilla, I think that's where you get the most complex character.
00:44:25.950 --> 00:44:31.790
Given that this beer in particular, uh the Hereby Monsters was aged in rye barrels.
00:44:31.950 --> 00:44:35.790
Vanilla obviously is a note that you can get from oak aging.
00:44:36.110 --> 00:44:43.310
Do you find that the vanilla amplifies the barrel character or vice versa,
or are they just parts in a whole?
00:44:43.790 --> 00:44:44.510
Oh, definitely.
00:44:44.590 --> 00:44:46.510
We pick barrels specifically for vanilla.
00:44:46.670 --> 00:44:49.950
So we do shoot for barrels that already have a little bit of that character.
00:44:50.030 --> 00:44:52.350
So that we do that with all adjuncts.
00:44:52.510 --> 00:45:01.150
If uh if a barrel set isn't really exemplifying any characters of what we're about to put in it, we find it just doesn't work as well.
00:45:01.390 --> 00:45:08.110
Unless it's a beer that we're hitting so hard with adjuncts that we're we're not using the barrel as a focus.
00:45:08.269 --> 00:45:20.190
But most of our barrel-age beers showcase barrel origin and barrel character first, and then we're using vanilla and other adjuncts to supplement that.
00:45:20.350 --> 00:45:25.470
So we're looking for that vanilla from the oak as a character.
00:45:25.630 --> 00:45:31.790
And if those barrels meet that direction, great, then we start moving in that in that space and complement it.
00:45:32.190 --> 00:45:35.070
Can you talk a little bit about how this actually gets used?
00:45:35.150 --> 00:45:37.470
How are you adding vanilla and at what point?
00:45:37.870 --> 00:45:45.790
Yeah, so we do it um on our barrelage beers in particular, we add it into the oak barrel, and we've tried different methods.
00:45:45.950 --> 00:46:03.310
Um, we've done uh we've always done hand processed, and then at one point it just became so labor intensive that we were trying to, we were hoping that running it through a Vitamix or something like that would speed up the process and give us the same or better extraction and flavor.
00:46:03.550 --> 00:46:14.590
Unfortunately, uh the testing that we did showed that the hand processed vanilla was always superior, in our opinion, on uh from a flavor perspective.
00:46:14.750 --> 00:46:28.269
So what we do is uh, and that's probably one of my remaining jobs that I uh I still take on myself uh for all of this, but it's just slicing vanilla beans directly all the way through.
00:46:28.430 --> 00:46:43.070
Uh, use a spoon, scrape out the caviar, and then chop the beans up so that way we get really good surface area extraction, pull all the caviar out, and then we're trying to maximize that surface area that's open to beer from the inside and outside of the bean.
00:46:43.310 --> 00:46:46.590
And so, how long does that end up in contact with the beer?
00:46:46.910 --> 00:46:49.950
One to three months, depending on how well I planned.
00:46:50.590 --> 00:46:51.230
Sure.
00:46:51.630 --> 00:47:00.510
Uh, do you have other origins that you are wanting to try or other projects of ways to use vanilla that you want to try?
00:47:00.910 --> 00:47:07.950
Uh yeah, in terms of origins, there's always like the super, you know, quote unquote hype vanilla beans that I uh would love to try out.
00:47:08.110 --> 00:47:13.070
I don't think that equates to quality in all aspects, but I think they look fun to play with.
00:47:13.150 --> 00:47:19.230
Some of the uh Brazilian beans are just massive in size, and I I think it'd be fun to play with.
00:47:19.310 --> 00:47:24.910
Plus, they're easier to process because the small thin ones are just so much more work.
00:47:24.990 --> 00:47:25.790
Uh so we'd love to.
00:47:26.190 --> 00:47:30.030
Do that and play around with some of those more like rare beans.
00:47:30.269 --> 00:47:41.550
But in general, I think we're we're really just enjoying the fact that there's there's probably 20 vanilla varietals out there we haven't even tried yet that we're looking to get our hands on and start playing with.
00:47:41.710 --> 00:47:49.870
And you know, we've also found some that we've really, really enjoyed that we're going to continue to use year to year because it is an agricultural product.
00:47:49.950 --> 00:47:56.110
So every year you're going to see slight variations in that in that being you can't just write it off as one flavor profile.
00:47:56.510 --> 00:48:06.670
On the consumer side of things, do you find that your fans respond to the storytelling of we used this particular origin or we used these different origins in this beer?
00:48:06.910 --> 00:48:10.510
Yeah, I think so, especially the the higher end products that we do.
00:48:10.670 --> 00:48:22.510
We do use vanilla in um like some IPAs and things like that as a supplementary adjunct uh to drive a certain character in the beer, but I don't I don't think that gets more lost, uh the storytelling there.
00:48:22.590 --> 00:48:33.870
But I think when we've used it in mixed culture beers in the past, when we've used it in barreled stout, I think people really do care about where we're sourcing ingredients from and what that flavor profile is.
00:48:34.269 --> 00:48:36.350
I want to talk briefly about cacao.
00:48:36.670 --> 00:48:38.750
I believe you've used that in a few different beers.
00:48:38.830 --> 00:48:43.310
Can you talk a little bit about uh the cacao that you've used in brewing?
00:48:43.630 --> 00:48:47.310
Yeah, we've used cacao nibs for quite a while and gone through a few different sources.
00:48:47.470 --> 00:48:48.990
We've definitely got our favorites there.
00:48:49.150 --> 00:48:55.070
We don't have the same variety to choose from from the sources we've used, which is honestly kind of helpful.
00:48:55.470 --> 00:49:02.830
I think there can be a paralysis by analysis when you look at a you know a two-page sheet of vanillas that you haven't you haven't worked with before.
00:49:02.990 --> 00:49:08.910
But we work with right now a chocolate provider, I believe they're out of Illinois called Ethereal.
00:49:09.150 --> 00:49:12.990
And we've really enjoyed almost everything we've gotten from them.
00:49:13.070 --> 00:49:17.630
But I'd say our our absolute favorite when it's in stock is the Filipino cacao nib.
00:49:17.790 --> 00:49:23.790
It's just what we're looking for with that is similar to coffee, is a low acid
cacao nib.
00:49:23.950 --> 00:49:32.350
So we're looking for that heavier roast, heavier chocolate, milk to dark chocolate notes with any of the depth that we can get outside of that.
00:49:32.430 --> 00:49:35.070
And that Filipino one is just so fudgy that it was.
00:49:35.470 --> 00:49:39.710
Is that the new uh Malinaba Long origin from Philippines?
00:49:40.110 --> 00:49:41.070
I don't know.
00:49:41.230 --> 00:49:45.950
We don't get the or like the specific origin on the cacao nib bags, so it could it could be.
00:49:46.030 --> 00:49:47.790
I just know that it is newer to them.
00:49:47.870 --> 00:49:50.910
I think it's been the past year and a half, two years we've been using it.
00:49:51.070 --> 00:49:54.110
Uh so they they're just listing you know the country origins.
00:49:54.190 --> 00:49:56.350
That's all we see on the bulk bags.
00:49:56.670 --> 00:50:06.430
Yeah, that is a newer origin to them, and uh it looks like a really exciting option, kind of like Ghana, where it's just gonna give you that straight ahead chocolate fudge flavor.
00:50:06.670 --> 00:50:15.470
Yeah, we Ghana's another favorite, and then uh Belize is also a big hit for us with a little bit more of that red fruit note in there.
00:50:15.710 --> 00:50:16.110
Cool.
00:50:16.350 --> 00:50:18.910
What story are you telling with vanilla?
00:50:19.310 --> 00:50:24.350
I mean, for us, I think it it's similar to stories that we tell with other agricultural products.
00:50:24.510 --> 00:50:35.550
With our IPAs, we're telling the story of hops and and hop origins and you know the labor of the farmers and the labor of everyone involved in the in the process of that.
00:50:35.710 --> 00:50:37.630
And with vanilla, I think it's the same thing.
00:50:37.710 --> 00:50:44.910
We we don't have any direct relationship based on the location of where vanilla is grown and our travel budget, frankly.
00:50:44.990 --> 00:50:47.710
But we you know, we'd love to showcase the same thing.
00:50:47.870 --> 00:50:50.910
Like this is an agricultural product that changes year over year.
00:50:51.070 --> 00:51:01.790
Um, a lot of these vanilla farmers are subject to extreme climate changes and you know, heat drought and things that really affect their livelihood.
00:51:02.030 --> 00:51:22.830
So our ability to source incredible vanilla beans from areas of the world that need that income through an importer that makes sure that they're getting paid a living wage for that product and telling that story all the way to the consumer so that they're able to realize, you know, that then we have now have customers that that talk about what vanillas they enjoy.
00:51:22.910 --> 00:51:27.470
And I think that's just something that we haven't we didn't see in beer 10 years ago.
00:51:27.710 --> 00:51:42.430
And there's a lot of good breweries telling that same story, so I think it it takes you know the whole industry, but I think we're getting to a point where people realize the value in paying for something like this and the work that goes into it.
00:51:43.870 --> 00:51:57.550
If you want to hear more about Ethereal, the company Sean sources his cacao from, you can go back and listen to episode 8 when we interviewed Michael Irvin and Marisa Allen of Ethereal to talk all about their company and the philosophy behind what they do.
00:51:57.710 --> 00:51:59.550
I'll link to that in the show notes.
00:51:59.870 --> 00:52:11.150
While I've done some asking around, I have not been able to find a Bean-Dabar chocolate maker working with different single-origin vanillas to highlight their characteristics in chocolate, which really seems like a missed opportunity.
00:52:11.390 --> 00:52:19.070
If you know of a maker doing this, or if you are a chocolate maker and you agree that it would be an interesting project, please reach out and we'll talk about it.
00:52:19.390 --> 00:52:24.350
I hope this episode helps you appreciate how unique and varied vanilla really is.
00:52:24.590 --> 00:52:33.150
Far from being an avatar for homogeneity, vanilla is a fascinating and diverse spice with a wide range of expressions that reward attention.
00:52:33.470 --> 00:52:34.269
Thanks to Dr.
00:52:34.350 --> 00:52:37.150
Alan Chambers and Sean Buchan for coming on the show today.
00:52:37.310 --> 00:52:38.590
Thanks to all of you for listening.
00:52:38.750 --> 00:52:41.390
I hope you enjoyed this episode of Bean to Barstool.