התמלול המלא של Luxury Without Compromise: Nancy Gale on Building a Brand That Stands for Something | Emily Blumenthal & Nancy Gale

stupid they got rid of that. 00:02:28.080 --> 00:02:28.479 Oh, yeah. 00:02:29.520 --> 00:02:30.560 How did this start? 00:02:30.719 --> 00:02:32.319 And let's start with the name. 00:02:32.560 --> 00:02:32.879 Go. 00:02:33.759 --> 00:02:34.719 Oh goodness. 00:02:34.879 --> 00:02:35.520 So Jama. 00:02:36.080 --> 00:02:39.280 No pressure, no pressure whatsoever. 00:02:39.599 --> 00:02:43.680 You know, it's so interesting when I was coming up with the name. 00:02:44.000 --> 00:02:49.919 Uh and I drove everybody in my world absolutely crazy because I knew there was a perfect name out there. 00:02:50.080 --> 00:02:51.680 I just had to find it. 00:02:51.919 --> 00:02:54.800 Uh in fact, and then I found a name. 00:02:55.039 --> 00:02:58.560 I didn't love it, and fortunately, we couldn't get the trademark. 00:02:58.639 --> 00:03:00.800 So I was very, very happy with that. 00:03:01.039 --> 00:03:07.919 And then I started reading Origin of Words and became very fascinated, really, with every word at that point. 00:03:08.000 --> 00:03:09.840 I went down such a rabbit hole. 00:03:10.159 --> 00:03:11.120 We all do. 00:03:11.680 --> 00:03:12.479 That's crazy. 00:03:12.560 --> 00:03:18.159 And you know, I always joke, you know, if my last name was Givenchy, perhaps I would have gone the eponymous route. 00:03:18.400 --> 00:03:25.120 And, you know, Nancy Gale is a great sort of American media name, but I wanted something different for the brand. 00:03:25.439 --> 00:03:27.360 And I came upon the word Jama. 00:03:28.240 --> 00:03:30.639 There were so many different meanings. 00:03:30.719 --> 00:03:35.360 There's a park in Africa called Jama Park, and it represents freedom. 00:03:35.599 --> 00:03:38.960 In Arabic, it is means diamond. 00:03:39.520 --> 00:03:42.159 In Persian, it means together. 00:03:42.479 --> 00:03:45.360 And every meaning I found was so beautiful. 00:03:45.520 --> 00:03:47.439 And in Swahili Are you Persian? 00:03:47.680 --> 00:03:48.560 No, I'm not. 00:03:48.639 --> 00:03:52.000 But and so I was finding what were just words all over. 00:03:52.719 --> 00:03:56.000 And in Swahili, it represents to be. 00:03:56.159 --> 00:03:58.800 And I knew that was it. 00:03:59.199 --> 00:03:59.680 That was it. 00:03:59.840 --> 00:04:02.879 And so our brand motto is be who you are. 00:04:03.280 --> 00:04:19.680 And that as I drove towards wanting to go into this ultra-luxury space, I thought, wow, for me, that's what real luxury is, is who you are, not just who everybody says you should be and what everybody says um one should carry. 00:04:20.000 --> 00:04:23.439 And so uh, and it was um interesting. 00:04:23.600 --> 00:04:31.839 I've gotten it from that day till now, I get so many inquiries about about the name and so many people sharing more stories. 00:04:32.000 --> 00:04:35.600 And so I feel like I I hit hit the right space for that. 00:04:35.839 --> 00:04:38.560 You know, that I I love that story. 00:04:38.720 --> 00:04:47.199 I mean, look, my handbag was

called Yasmina, and it had the Hamsa or the hand of Fatima, depending where you sit on that. 00:04:47.439 --> 00:04:50.959 But I'm like, okay, my brand needs to be international. 00:04:51.199 --> 00:04:56.639 No one's buying a bag called Emily Blumenthal, as I'm sure perhaps that circled your name like Nancy Gale. 00:04:56.879 --> 00:04:57.839 That's not fabulous. 00:04:58.000 --> 00:04:58.959 That's not global. 00:04:59.120 --> 00:05:04.720 That's and then, you know, it was at the peak of, I can't remember, maybe it was Jill Sander. 00:05:04.800 --> 00:05:05.279 I don't know. 00:05:05.360 --> 00:05:11.360 But there was a very well-renowned designer who had had their brand sold. 00:05:11.439 --> 00:05:16.319 And then it was some sort of drama as to what said designer was going to do after. 00:05:16.399 --> 00:05:21.120 I was like, well, if they buy the name, I still want to have a life after that. 00:05:21.199 --> 00:05:25.600 You know, the delusions of being a new brand and a new designer not knowing anything. 00:05:25.839 --> 00:05:32.800 But sometimes that naivete leads you to something that ends up being part of the core tenants of your brand. 00:05:33.120 --> 00:05:33.839 I agree. 00:05:34.000 --> 00:05:43.040 And, you know, the irony for me was I loved you, every uh definition and origin that I found was from somewhere else in the world. 00:05:43.279 --> 00:05:47.279 Yet I was hell bent on made in the USA. 00:05:47.759 --> 00:05:49.759 So it was kind of a funny connection. 00:05:49.920 --> 00:05:57.199 And then I realized ultimately this is so amazing because if I sell the brand, I would then do like Nancy Gale for drama. 00:05:57.600 --> 00:05:58.399 And there you go. 00:05:58.560 --> 00:05:59.519 There you go. 00:06:00.319 --> 00:06:06.079 So how you know, 26 years ago, you still, I'm sure, looked exactly the same. 00:06:06.240 --> 00:06:08.319 Your hair was still beautiful blonde. 00:06:08.560 --> 00:06:12.560 You know, maybe when we think back, maybe I didn't have to color my hair so much. 00:06:12.639 --> 00:06:15.279 But as far as I'm concerned, I still look the same. 00:06:15.680 --> 00:06:16.000 Why? 00:06:16.240 --> 00:06:18.000 And you say going into luxury. 00:06:18.160 --> 00:06:22.000 And, you know, I'm sure you come across this dealing with designers. 00:06:22.319 --> 00:06:28.800 Most new brands deem themselves luxury only because, well, there's twofold. 00:06:29.040 --> 00:06:34.000 One, they're obsessed with getting the best letters, bespoke this. 00:06:34.319 --> 00:06:40.879 And I don't poo-poo them, but I challenge them saying, is it luxury because you don't know any better? 00:06:41.120 --> 00:06:52.720 And you assume you need to buy the best of the best, because to find someone to spend, even 26 years ago, Minkoff was the first one who knocked her brand down$100 and added five. 00:06:52.879 --> 00:06:56.240 And the bags were then sold at the 400 price point. 00:06:56.319 --> 00:06:58.160 Like that was revolutionary. 00:06:58.720 --> 00:07:02.079 How did you decide I'm going to be a luxury brand? 00:07:02.160 --> 00:07:03.600 I'm going to stay in that space. 00:07:03.759 --> 00:07:08.560 My bags will not be in that$100 to$300 price point. 00:07:08.639 --> 00:07:11.360 And what were you doing before that pushed you into this? 00:07:11.439 --> 00:07:14.800 Was it one of those I can't find a handbag that suits my needs? 00:07:14.959 --> 00:07:17.680 Was it all a compilation of all that? 00:07:18.319 --> 00:07:19.199 Not really. 00:07:19.600 --> 00:07:20.240 So funny. 00:07:22.319 --> 00:07:24.079 So just a little background. 00:07:24.240 --> 00:07:30.560 Growing up, I lived from seven to 17 in Detroit during major economic prosperity. 00:07:30.959 --> 00:07:38.800 And the you know, the motor city and architecture and everything was just growing and booming. 00:07:39.040 --> 00:07:49.920 And my dad and I used to have these conversations, and it was so interesting that for some reason, when it came to fashion, anything ultra luxury was relegated to Europe. 00:07:50.160 --> 00:07:58.959 And I never I couldn't understand why, because we clearly have you know the supreme craftspeople here, but there's a lure and illusion. 00:07:59.120 --> 00:08:03.439 And it's in fact, in fact, this is a funny little connection that I just made. 00:08:03.680 --> 00:08:16.480 When I was growing up, my dad would not let me leave the country until I had seen, visited 30 states because he wanted me to understand the beauty of my own backyard. 00:08:16.959 --> 00:08:17.600 Wow. 00:08:18.160 --> 00:08:20.560 And I think that's a very random. 00:08:20.879 --> 00:08:28.879 I mean, it sounds random, but I'm sure from where he sat, it was a very, very logical way of thinking. 00:08:29.360 --> 00:08:34.720 Very, he said you will be a better traveler of the world when you love and appreciate and respect your own backyard. 00:08:34.879 --> 00:08:42.559 And when that's phenomenal, understand that people spend a life savings coming to to America to explore. 00:08:42.720 --> 00:08:55.039 And so so I started noticing as I was older when people were traveling on their own dime, everybody is so busy visiting all these other parts of the world as if we're not enough. 00:08:55.200 --> 00:08:57.919 And they've seen maybe three or four cities here. 00:08:58.080 --> 00:09:00.799 And in fact, I had this conversation with a friend. 00:09:00.879 --> 00:09:03.279 He lives in um, he grew up in Nebraska. 00:09:03.519 --> 00:09:07.360 So one day we were trying to make plans, and I didn't know him well at all. 00:09:07.519 --> 00:09:12.799 We just met and we were setting up a lunch date, and I said, Uh, how about next week? 00:09:12.960 --> 00:09:14.399 He said, Oh, I'll be traveling next week. 00:09:14.480 --> 00:09:15.759 I said, Oh, where are you going? 00:09:15.919 --> 00:09:17.919 And he said, Oh, just Nebraska. 00:09:18.080 --> 00:09:20.799 And with the straightest face, I looked him in the eyes. 00:09:20.879

--> 00:09:24.320 I said, Oh, where is just in Nebraska? 00:09:24.639 --> 00:09:25.919 Oh, ooh. 00:09:26.399 --> 00:09:29.120 He kind of froze, and then he started laughing. 00:09:29.279 --> 00:09:33.440 He said, So what you're telling me is my folks would never want to hear me say that. 00:09:33.519 --> 00:09:36.320 I said, Yeah, you grew up in just Nebraska. 00:09:36.480 --> 00:09:38.240 How awful can it be? 00:09:38.559 --> 00:09:43.039 So that sort of that was there always bubbling under for me. 00:09:43.200 --> 00:09:47.519 And I remember I saw my first atelier in London. 00:09:47.759 --> 00:09:57.279 And I remember um afterwards I told my dad, I said, Oh my gosh, an atelier, it's just a little sort of shipbox sewing room, but it has a beautiful word. 00:09:57.519 --> 00:10:06.320 They use all these beautiful words cultivate, curate, couture, atelier, and we say manufacturing, production, and factory. 00:10:06.799 --> 00:10:08.159 And comma studio. 00:10:08.559 --> 00:10:08.879 Yes. 00:10:09.440 --> 00:10:09.919 Yes. 00:10:10.559 --> 00:10:13.759 And so I said, that has to change. 00:10:14.080 --> 00:10:23.200 And so um I always had this just under the surface that one day there will be an ultra luxury made in a USA brand. 00:10:23.440 --> 00:10:26.960 May as well be mine because I'm really patient. 00:10:27.360 --> 00:10:28.559 I'm from here. 00:10:29.120 --> 00:10:35.360 All the other ultra, ultra luxury designers are dead from the big, big, big brands, right? 00:10:35.440 --> 00:10:38.720 Like they can't start that here, and they're not from here anyway. 00:10:39.279 --> 00:10:41.600 You've got the get you've the gift of life. 00:10:41.759 --> 00:10:42.559 So well done. 00:10:42.720 --> 00:10:43.840 Good on you, Nancy. 00:10:43.919 --> 00:10:45.600 You're already my favorite person. 00:10:45.840 --> 00:10:47.600 That's so amazing. 00:10:47.919 --> 00:10:50.480 And so I I'm already winning. 00:10:53.120 --> 00:10:54.159 Oh my god. 00:10:54.960 --> 00:10:56.080 That's awesome. 00:10:56.320 --> 00:11:05.440 You know, so as I ventured, uh initially had a business partner and we went our our own ways, and I really dug into this ultra-luxury mission. 00:11:05.600 --> 00:11:10.639 Then I decided about around 2010, I don't just want to do that. 00:11:10.799 --> 00:11:15.759 I want to start a nonprofit because it dawned on me, I have so much access and exposure. 00:11:15.919 --> 00:11:18.879 And I grew up at what I always call the ideal dinner table. 00:11:19.120 --> 00:11:19.360 Right. 00:11:19.519 --> 00:11:22.720 So, like, what happens if you didn't grow up at my dinner table? 00:11:22.879 --> 00:11:25.039 Who gives you that access and exposure? 00:11:25.279 --> 00:11:28.799 So I launched my nonprofit in 2010. 00:11:29.039 --> 00:11:33.840 And now everybody who works for Jama also volunteers for ambition. 00:11:34.879 --> 00:11:37.919 So I found this really beautiful world. 00:11:38.320 --> 00:11:39.759 And I just kept going. 00:11:39.840 --> 00:11:45.200 And I would, I remember how I had a showroomer up in New York, and he said, he opened my bags one day. 00:11:45.279 --> 00:11:46.639 He said, Why this suede? 00:11:46.720 --> 00:11:47.679 It's so expensive. 00:11:47.840 --> 00:11:50.559 I said, but it's lush and beautiful. 00:11:50.720 --> 00:11:54.480 He said, you know, just put some cheap silk inside, like get the prices down. 00:11:54.639 --> 00:11:59.759 And I said, No, no, I want to, like, these are going to be works of art. 00:12:00.080 --> 00:12:05.440 And whatever it takes to make a work of art is ultimately how I'm going to price my bags. 00:12:05.519 --> 00:12:08.720 And if it's not for somebody, then it's not for somebody. 00:12:08.799 --> 00:12:10.000 And I'm okay with that. 00:12:10.240 --> 00:12:14.000 I want people to start appreciating what we have here in our backyard. 00:12:14.159 --> 00:12:16.080 And I just kept iterating. 00:12:16.320 --> 00:12:22.879 And then a few years ago, I launched a motor car collection where I do bags to reflect people's cars. 00:12:23.039 --> 00:12:25.120 And that sort of took me by storm. 00:12:25.200 --> 00:12:31.279 And it really, the brand has now had so much exposure and has opened up my classic collection. 00:12:31.440 --> 00:12:36.639 And the motor car collection is just it's been amazing because nobody else does this. 00:12:36.879 --> 00:12:37.519 Oh my God. 00:12:37.600 --> 00:12:39.840 I have so many questions before we get to motor cars. 00:12:40.000 --> 00:12:40.320 Pause. 00:12:40.720 --> 00:12:41.759 Pause, pause, pause. 00:12:42.000 --> 00:12:42.159 Okay. 00:12:42.480 --> 00:12:42.799 Okay. 00:12:43.279 --> 00:12:45.600 When did you decide that you were going to do handbags? 00:12:45.679 --> 00:12:46.799 Like, what were you doing before? 00:12:47.200 --> 00:12:49.200 Because clearly you were doing something before. 00:12:49.519 --> 00:12:49.759 Yes. 00:12:50.000 --> 00:12:50.399 Sorry. 00:12:50.639 --> 00:12:52.799 So I was a technical writer. 00:12:53.039 --> 00:12:58.799 And what's funny is when I grew up, like I'm in college, I always had the wardrobe. 00:12:58.960 --> 00:13:00.559 I would loan people clothes. 00:13:00.720 --> 00:13:02.240 I was all about fashion. 00:13:02.480 --> 00:13:04.720 Growing up, I was all about fashion. 00:13:05.039 --> 00:13:12.879 Then I graduated college, and I suddenly decided nobody's going to take me as seriously as I'd like. 00:13:13.120 --> 00:13:16.240 I wanted people to understand my intellect. 00:13:16.720 --> 00:13:25.360 And I felt like I was constantly in conversations with people that were, they'd meet me, and then they were surprised at how intelligent and well-spoken I was. 00:13:25.600 --> 00:13:28.080 So I thought, I can't go into the fashion industry. 00:13:28.159 --> 00:13:29.679 And I became a technical writer. 00:13:29.840 --> 00:13:32.240 I love writing and I'm a strong writer. 00:13:32.559 --> 00:13:35.840 It was everything, everything that I am not. 00:13:36.320 -->

00:13:43.039 And one day I just sort of woke up to it and I said, I called up a lot of my friends from college. 00:13:43.279 --> 00:13:46.799 I said, This is so crazy, but I want to go into the fashion industry. 00:13:47.039 --> 00:13:50.399 And every single response was, Well, of course you do. 00:13:50.480 --> 00:13:52.080 Everybody knew you would do that. 00:13:52.320 --> 00:13:53.039 Oh my God. 00:13:53.279 --> 00:13:56.320 I wish someone had someone had told me. 00:13:57.519 --> 00:13:58.799 And that was it. 00:13:58.879 --> 00:14:05.919 And then I started thinking about, you know, these conversations I used to have growing up, what the world looked like to me as far as fashion. 00:14:06.080 --> 00:14:12.639 Again, this fascination that we didn't have any true luxury in the USA. 00:14:13.360 --> 00:14:15.519 And handbags are a couple of reasons. 00:14:15.759 --> 00:14:18.480 One, to be really honest, there's no grading. 00:14:18.639 --> 00:14:22.240 So, right, you want a different size, you just make a different pattern. 00:14:22.559 --> 00:14:28.480 And I love the idea of bags because you look at a bag, right? 00:14:28.559 --> 00:14:30.080 It's just a utility item. 00:14:30.240 --> 00:14:31.519 Just hold your shit. 00:14:31.919 --> 00:14:40.159 But when I started looking at what people would pay for handbags, and I started thinking about what happens when I pick up a bag, right? 00:14:40.240 --> 00:14:42.720 Like a really beautiful piece. 00:14:43.039 --> 00:14:44.960 I stand up taller. 00:14:45.919 --> 00:14:52.639 And now this could be this really beautiful accessory that almost changes all my outfits, like depending on what I'm wearing. 00:14:53.360 --> 00:14:54.960 The bag looks different. 00:14:55.519 --> 00:14:56.799 But let me ask you. 00:14:57.039 --> 00:14:58.879 So you came up with this idea. 00:14:59.039 --> 00:15:00.559 You said, I want to go into handbags. 00:15:00.720 --> 00:15:04.159 You said two key points that I don't think we should gloss over. 00:15:04.559 --> 00:15:07.919 One, this obsession with production in the US. 00:15:08.480 --> 00:15:16.799 So you had to find a factory, work with the factory, probably not the only factory you've worked for, because that's telling back. 00:15:17.039 --> 00:15:17.919 Like we all know that. 00:15:18.080 --> 00:15:19.360 Because that's number one. 00:15:19.679 --> 00:15:21.679 Number two, you had a partner. 00:15:21.840 --> 00:15:23.120 You no longer have a partner. 00:15:23.200 --> 00:15:26.240 Like that's a big, big situation. 00:15:26.799 --> 00:15:32.639 Because, like, talk about the factory and the partner and the breakup, if you will. 00:15:32.799 --> 00:15:34.320 Like, because that's core. 00:15:34.960 --> 00:15:40.080 If you ever wanted to start a handbag brand and you didn't know where to start, this is for you. 00:15:40.399 --> 00:15:45.840 If you had dreams of becoming a handbag designer but aren't trained in design, this is for you. 00:15:46.000 --> 00:15:50.399 If you have a handbag brand and need strategy and direction, this is for you. 00:15:50.639 --> 00:15:59.039 I'm Emily Blumenthal, handbag designer expert and handbag fairy godmother, and this is the handbag designer 101 masterclass. 00:15:59.279 --> 00:16:06.080 Over the next 10 classes, I will break down everything you need to know to make, manufacture, and market a handbag brand. 00:16:06.240 --> 00:16:15.519 Broken down to ensure that you will not only skip steps in the handbag building process, but also to save money to avoid the learning curve of costly mistakes. 00:16:15.759 --> 00:16:26.559 For the past 20 years, I've been teaching at the top fashion universities in New York City, wrote the handbag designer Bible, founded the handbag boards, and created the only handbag designer podcast. 00:16:26.799 --> 00:16:33.200 I'm going to show you like I have countless brands to create in this in-depth course, from sketch to sample to sale. 00:16:33.440 --> 00:16:43.600 Whether you're just starting out and don't even know where to start up again, or if you've had a brand and need some strategic direction, the handbag designer 101 Masterclass is just for you. 00:16:43.840 --> 00:16:47.279 So let's get started and you'll be the creator of the next it bag. 00:16:47.440 --> 00:16:51.840 Join me, Emily Blumenthal, in the Handbag Designer 101 Masterclass. 00:16:52.080 --> 00:17:03.840 So be sure to sign up at Emily Blumenthal.com slash masterclass and type in the code I'Cast to get 10% off your masterclass today. 00:17:08.559 --> 00:17:10.079 Yeah, you know, it's interesting. 00:17:10.240 --> 00:17:14.720 I started getting very we were doing high-end gifting in the entertainment industry. 00:17:14.960 --> 00:17:15.759 Who's we? 00:17:15.920 --> 00:17:17.440 Um my business partner and I. 00:17:17.920 --> 00:17:18.160 Okay. 00:17:18.319 --> 00:17:21.359 And how did you meet said partner or ex-partner? 00:17:22.160 --> 00:17:25.119 We lived in the same building years ago. 00:17:25.359 --> 00:17:28.799 And so she was working for a company doing gifting. 00:17:29.200 --> 00:17:37.279 And um, when she would travel, I would go up and like let people in her uh drop packages off and pick packages up. 00:17:37.519 --> 00:17:41.039 And then we just decided one day we should do this on our own. 00:17:41.359 --> 00:17:46.880 But that industry was changing a lot, and she was a phenomenal salesperson. 00:17:47.440 --> 00:17:50.400 She was so well wired in that industry. 00:17:50.799 --> 00:18:01.039 But what happened for me is because of it, I started visiting factories, and I realized it all started sort of seeping in what I wanted to do. 00:18:01.200 --> 00:18:02.960 And this in New York? 00:18:03.200 --> 00:18:04.640 No, this is in LA. 00:18:04.960 --> 00:18:05.279 Okay. 00:18:06.000 --> 00:18:15.680 Actually, at the time she worked with some factories in Canada, and so we we worked with a few of them, and then it all it was just sort of germinating for me. 00:18:16.000

--> 00:18:23.839 And when I was started getting really interested in the bags and doing like my own designs, that's where we just separated. 00:18:24.160 --> 00:18:26.000 It wasn't something she was interested in. 00:18:26.079 --> 00:18:33.119 I really wanted to go into retail, I really wanted to stay with the handbags, she really wanted to stay in the entertainment environment. 00:18:33.279 --> 00:18:35.200 So we went our separate ways. 00:18:35.519 --> 00:18:48.880 And then finding factories, I just I knew someone in Canada who knew someone in LA, who knew someone else in LA, and I just started meeting everybody that everybody told me. 00:18:48.960 --> 00:19:20.160 I started going online, looking up leather companies, and then I found this factory in south of LA, and they were good, and I learned a lot, but I realized there the fit wasn't there for what I was really looking for, and then they ended up actually closing down, which was a big gift because it forced me to explore, and then I went from person to person and tried different factories, and it became really overwhelming. 00:19:20.400 --> 00:19:45.839 And then one day I took my then boyfriend, now husband, he's the best veter of people, and I said, You need to come to the lat the the four final factories, and I'm you know, one of them's beautiful, and I was getting a little attached to that, realizing, and that's why I asked him to come with me because I thought I can't he he saw through the overhead. 00:19:46.559 --> 00:19:49.839 Well, and he also knew, like, I'm like, this is so pretty. 00:19:50.079 --> 00:19:54.720 And so I said, So he comes with me, and I don't say who he is, I just introduce him. 00:19:54.799 --> 00:20:00.880 This is Michael, and we we walked out of the first two, and he looked at me and said, Nope, nope. 00:20:01.119 --> 00:20:04.799 Then we went to the beautiful one, and he said, Okay, that's beautiful. 00:20:05.039 --> 00:20:10.880 Then we came down to the last one, and we walked in and it was a mess. 00:20:11.440 --> 00:20:23.039 But I walked into the sewing room and there was so much love, and then I started looking at the work they do, and the work was beautiful, and I just thought, oh, this feels so good. 00:20:23.200 --> 00:20:27.839 And as soon as we walked out, I looked at Michael, he said, You you just made your choice. 00:20:28.160 --> 00:20:44.000 And I've been with them for you know almost 15 years now, and we've moved into another great space, and these this is my family, and I mean, I'm watching their kids have kids, and we're all so connected, and so that was the absolute right choice. 00:20:44.160 --> 00:20:45.680 It's just a place filled with love. 00:20:45.759 --> 00:20:50.559 It's like my head sewer, it's like watching someone do a dance at the machine. 00:20:50.640 --> 00:20:55.839 He's he's so exacting and perfected, and so we've taught each other. 00:20:56.000 --> 00:21:02.240 In fact, he was he did beautiful work, he hadn't quite done the level of work that we do now. 00:21:02.319 --> 00:21:11.359 And in fact, they used to say to me, you know, sometimes we think maybe we're not the right person for you because we'll do something and then you'll want us to do it differently. 00:21:11.440 --> 00:21:19.039 And I said, I'm looking at every bag, thinking, like even when when we just do our samples, what will my client say? 00:21:19.440 --> 00:21:23.839 And little by little, Val, my lead sewer, said, I love that. 00:21:24.000 --> 00:21:25.599 This is just making us grow. 00:21:25.759 --> 00:21:28.799 Yeah, so it's I love being in there and watching. 00:21:28.880 --> 00:21:34.240 And even like, so we do everything by hand, same sewer start to finish. 00:21:34.400 --> 00:21:38.319 And when we do use the machine, he does all hand pumping. 00:21:38.799 --> 00:21:39.279 Wow. 00:21:39.440 --> 00:21:41.759 Yeah, so it's it's pretty incredible. 00:21:42.240 --> 00:21:45.279 What about the materials in terms of sourcing? 00:21:45.440 --> 00:21:46.480 How does that work? 00:21:46.960 --> 00:21:58.000 Because having someone make it domestically is one thing, but it's another to say, okay, especially for the years that you've been doing this, you don't need to source locally. 00:21:58.319 --> 00:22:09.920 You can probably I mean, you and I both know that the success of your brand, obviously beyond just you, is relationships, right? 00:22:10.079 --> 00:22:17.839 It's relationships with your boutiques, it's relationships with stores, it's relationships with your factory. 00:22:18.319 --> 00:22:32.160 So everything is like all comes down to this human connection, which is a plus, but it also can be scary because if you put all your eggs in one basket, like then what? 00:22:32.400 --> 00:22:40.079 You know, I had a great relationship with one of my factories, and I had no idea they were celebrating a holiday. 00:22:40.240 --> 00:22:50.240 So I was emailing and emailing and emailing and emailing them, and I offended them so horribly because they never told me that they were celebrating a holiday that I got bumped. 00:22:50.319 --> 00:22:57.200 And then I was like, oh my God, I have uh an order to ship to Nordstrom and I'm screwed and now I'm late, you know. 00:22:57.359 --> 00:22:59.680 So, because we've all been there, right? 00:22:59.759 --> 00:23:01.839 It's just the cost of doing business. 00:23:02.240 --> 00:23:04.480 So how do you deal? 00:23:04.559 --> 00:23:08.000 Like, did you ever feel like, oh, I need to diversify from this factory? 00:23:08.240 --> 00:23:09.680 God forbid something happened. 00:23:09.839 --> 00:23:12.720 And how do you deal with the material situation? 00:23:12.960 --> 00:23:17.359 I mean, because this is this is like, you know, the people who listen to this, this is what they want to know. 00:23:17.440 --> 00:23:18.319 Like, now what? 00:23:18.559 --> 00:23:20.160 Like this all this is beautiful. 00:23:20.319 --> 00:23:29.599 We're all hearing the high row, you've got the

motor collection, people are excited, but there's so much garbage behind the scenes that you have lived through. 00:23:29.759 --> 00:23:31.920 The tears, the crying, the driving home in the car. 00:23:32.000 --> 00:23:33.119 Like, what the fuck am I gonna do? 00:23:33.200 --> 00:23:36.640 Oh my god, oh my god, oh my god, like, oh my god, my business is done. 00:23:36.880 --> 00:23:40.799 Going your husband, being like, that's it, that's it, that's it. 00:23:40.960 --> 00:23:43.359 I guess I'll just have a trunk show. 00:23:43.519 --> 00:23:45.759 I'll invite people over, they could buy them up. 00:23:45.839 --> 00:23:46.240 I'm done. 00:23:46.319 --> 00:23:47.279 I can't do this anymore. 00:23:47.519 --> 00:23:48.880 Like, we all go through that. 00:23:49.119 --> 00:23:56.319 So, how do you work through all that and like materials and diversifying in terms of relationships and all that? 00:23:56.799 --> 00:24:20.000 So, I have actually someone, a couple people that in the worst case, not even the worst case scenario, because they're amazing, but I'm I've found a few people that can sew that are not at my factory that I'm starting to establish relationships with in very specific areas, just like based on one style or one project. 00:24:20.160 --> 00:24:27.359 And I just make sure that I keep those relationships positive, no matter how much we're doing business together or not. 00:24:27.680 --> 00:24:33.599 But materials, I have about three or four really great suppliers. 00:24:33.839 --> 00:24:39.759 We get pretty much everything we use for the most part is um Italian lambskin. 00:24:40.160 --> 00:24:45.680 And so we have a tannery in um northern Florence, but I have a middleman for that. 00:24:45.920 --> 00:24:52.319 They know, and what's great is at this point, my few suppliers they know exactly what I love. 00:24:52.480 --> 00:24:52.960 Yeah. 00:24:53.200 --> 00:25:01.599 But one thing that was really important for me, we we get so much from this tannery in northern Florence that um they helped me. 00:25:01.680 --> 00:25:08.640 It was really lovely because usually they won't allow their clients to go over there, but they made an exception for me. 00:25:08.720 --> 00:25:10.400 And so I got to visit the tannery. 00:25:10.559 --> 00:25:11.599 Oh, that's fun. 00:25:12.240 --> 00:25:14.400 That was so amazing. 00:25:14.799 --> 00:25:16.880 Can I just ask you another question? 00:25:17.119 --> 00:25:19.359 So I've discussed this before. 00:25:19.519 --> 00:25:23.519 You know, I work with a lot of designers, I know a lot of them. 00:25:23.680 --> 00:25:26.079 Like, that's that's what people come to me for. 00:25:26.240 --> 00:25:33.839 Like Town Scout, finding new designer, like retailers, like, okay, who's a designer, you know, like who's hot, you know, that kind of thing. 00:25:33.920 --> 00:25:35.039 Like who's coming up? 00:25:35.200 --> 00:25:39.200 But I have one particular designer who was interested in being acquired. 00:25:39.279 --> 00:25:49.440 And I've discussed this before on the podcast, but she was super talented, but she was making about a million gross. 00:25:49.680 --> 00:26:02.240 And when I spoke to my, I have a lovely contact of mergers and acquisitions, and I spoke to him, and she was interested in being acquired, or at least to grow, to scale. 00:26:02.640 --> 00:26:06.480 And she had a nice retail business, she had a nice boutique business. 00:26:06.799 --> 00:26:11.279 And he was asking me, what are how many employees does she have? 00:26:11.519 --> 00:26:18.319 And when I said it's her, and she is a few like an assistant, and this and that, like super small team. 00:26:18.720 --> 00:26:23.920 And I said, That isn't that amazing, because then the acquisition of the brand is super seamless. 00:26:24.000 --> 00:26:29.519 It's not a, you know, it's like you ask one person, sign on the dotted line, you're done. 00:26:30.160 --> 00:26:33.359 And he said, actually, no, it's not. 00:26:33.519 --> 00:26:36.319 And I said, uh huh, I'm a little confused. 00:26:36.720 --> 00:26:52.559 And he said to me, actually, I question her ability to scale because if she's not allocating jobs and responsibilities to other people, she's getting in her own way of potential growth. 00:26:52.799 --> 00:26:58.079 So essentially she's getting paid like a high-end lawyer with an hourly rate. 00:26:58.480 --> 00:27:00.640 So, no, no, thank you to her. 00:27:00.880 --> 00:27:06.480 I'm sure she's nice, she does good business, but she's not gonna grow because she can't, because this is just her. 00:27:06.799 --> 00:27:10.400 So if I buy the business, without her, there is no business. 00:27:10.480 --> 00:27:17.119 And I need to know that this is such a well-oiled machine that without her, I can take this and grow this and do X, Y, Z. 00:27:17.519 --> 00:27:18.799 What are your thoughts on that? 00:27:18.960 --> 00:27:20.240 Do you have an opinion? 00:27:20.640 --> 00:27:22.559 You know, it's so funny. 00:27:22.799 --> 00:27:36.559 I just was just having this conversation the other day because when I just a little background to that, when I at one point was looking for funding or considering funding, and it was also at the point that I was starting ambition. 00:27:37.359 --> 00:27:42.240 And I remember everyone I talked to, they got really excited. 00:27:42.319 --> 00:27:45.440 And we had just been uh I had just been on extra. 00:27:45.599 --> 00:27:47.599 So we had this kind of hoopla. 00:27:48.079 --> 00:27:53.440 Yeah, and you know, it's what people think is a big deal versus what really actually isn't a big deal. 00:27:53.519 --> 00:27:56.960 Of course, I've got smoke by we used to joke, smoke buys mirrors. 00:27:57.119 --> 00:27:58.640 That's that's how we used to say it. 00:27:58.880 --> 00:27:59.279 Yes. 00:27:59.759 --> 00:28:06.079 I always say things, it's not just that people put up smoke and mirrors, the world loves to see things through smoke and mirrors. 00:28:06.319 -->

00:28:06.960 They sure do. 00:28:07.359 --> 00:28:10.880 So they see one little thing and they say, Look at look at that. 00:28:11.440 --> 00:28:25.759 So as I was going through this process, I would then talk about ambition, and all of a sudden every potential funder would say, Oh, we're not gonna give you any money if you're gonna work on this little side nonprofit thing because we need all your attention. 00:28:25.839 --> 00:28:31.599 And I said, Well, I'm building a really interesting model where they are so intrinsically connected. 00:28:31.839 --> 00:28:36.319 I need ambition to work for JAMA to work, and I need JAMA to work for ambition to work. 00:28:36.480 --> 00:28:41.519 They weren't really buying that, which was a good thing for me because I actually wasn't ready for funding. 00:28:42.079 --> 00:28:52.880 Then I started noticing ever as I had like you know, as big events would happen for us, then everybody would say, like 20 times a day, I heard, how you gonna scale? 00:28:52.960 --> 00:28:53.680 How are you gonna scale? 00:28:53.759 --> 00:28:54.480 Then I start ambition. 00:28:54.799 --> 00:28:55.519 How you gonna scale? 00:28:55.599 --> 00:28:56.720 How are you gonna scale? 00:28:56.960 --> 00:28:59.039 And I said, you know what I'm going to do? 00:28:59.279 --> 00:29:05.599 I'm going to do both of these so damn well that scaling will happen to us. 00:29:06.079 --> 00:29:13.680 I'm the little engine that could, and I'm just going to keep doing this really, really well and build really solid relationships. 00:29:13.839 --> 00:29:18.799 And when I get to that point, I will figure that out because that's how my mind works. 00:29:19.200 --> 00:29:28.720 So I've learned, you know, I used to get very nervous about talking to investors and all like and this is how it should be, and this is how you have to do it. 00:29:28.799 --> 00:29:33.359 And and again, and this is how you run a luxury brand, and this is how you run a nonprofit. 00:29:33.519 --> 00:29:41.759 And the great thing about experience is I don't get upset when people give me all the unsolicited advice anymore. 00:29:42.079 --> 00:29:43.359 God, they love it. 00:29:43.599 --> 00:29:44.160 They love it. 00:29:45.599 --> 00:29:48.240 I'm just not married to it anymore. 00:29:48.480 --> 00:29:51.279 So I don't get it, doesn't get my goat. 00:29:51.519 --> 00:29:53.119 I just continue on. 00:29:53.440 --> 00:29:57.920 And so, um, like when I started the motor car collection too, again, how are you gonna scale this? 00:29:58.000 --> 00:30:03.039 And the next thing I know, I'm in conversations with all these big motor car brands. 00:30:03.359 --> 00:30:09.759 But to that point, I think what I finally did, and it's been very helpful in many, many ways. 00:30:10.319 --> 00:30:17.440 I am running the operations now as though we are scaling and growing. 00:30:17.519 --> 00:30:21.920 And so that no matter what happens, I'll be ready on all levels. 00:30:22.079 --> 00:30:24.240 So I finally have brought more people in. 00:30:24.400 --> 00:30:30.079 I'm and we're this is just in this process now that your conversation is so pertinent to all of that. 00:30:30.240 --> 00:30:35.519 So I feel like for me, my answer to pretty much everything is well, I'm finding my own middle. 00:30:36.880 --> 00:30:44.559 And I had this conversation with a designer who'd been making her bags herself, and she works in her basement and super talented. 00:30:44.640 --> 00:30:46.880 And we had a similar conversation. 00:30:47.680 --> 00:30:55.920 And what growth means to you is such a personal, personal situation. 00:30:56.240 --> 00:31:00.880 And I've had this conversation that I mean, I talk to a lot of people, I talk a lot. 00:31:01.119 --> 00:31:02.799 I'm already tired of listening to myself. 00:31:02.880 --> 00:31:04.960 I hope no one is listening to me at this point. 00:31:05.279 --> 00:31:16.960 But when as a mom, right, you don't really know what you're doing, but then you see someone whose child is hitting milestones before you're a kid. 00:31:17.039 --> 00:31:29.119 So they're walking first, talking first, can go to the bathroom first, is reading first, can wipe their butt first, you know, all these things that then make you feel like, am I doing something wrong? 00:31:29.359 --> 00:31:30.480 Am I not good enough? 00:31:30.720 --> 00:31:32.240 Am I not a good mother? 00:31:32.400 --> 00:31:40.079 Am I not a good, you know, all these things because you're such a vulnerable situation, other than being, you know, new mom brain. 00:31:40.319 --> 00:31:44.000 I equate so much of that to running your own business. 00:31:44.160 --> 00:31:46.079 It's so, so similar. 00:31:46.240 --> 00:31:48.720 Ironically, I had my own business before I had my kids. 00:31:48.799 --> 00:31:51.200 So all those milestones didn't mean anything to me. 00:31:51.279 --> 00:31:52.960 I was like, they'll be fine, they'll figure it out. 00:31:53.039 --> 00:31:58.640 Because I feel like running your own business is a thousand times harder than raising a kid and sleep training. 00:31:58.720 --> 00:31:59.519 I'm like, she'll cry. 00:31:59.599 --> 00:32:01.440 If she goes to therapy, it's not going to be for that. 00:32:01.519 --> 00:32:02.559 She'll be okay. 00:32:02.880 --> 00:32:12.000 But I, you know, and I had this conversation with someone, and I said, we all hit those points when we're meant to. 00:32:12.079 --> 00:32:19.759 And sometimes we do it because things went wrong, and sometimes we do it because the stars aligned for us and we were at the right place or at the right time. 00:32:20.079 --> 00:32:21.359 Yes, yes. 00:32:22.160 --> 00:32:26.079 Because you always wonder, right, whose rules are these anyway? 00:32:26.480 --> 00:32:28.160 Like, I get to do that. 00:32:28.240 --> 00:32:29.359 This is supporting me. 00:32:29.440 --> 00:32:31.759 This is like building a beautiful life for me. 00:32:31.920 --> 00:32:34.400 This is helping my kids and my nonprofit.

00:32:34.559 --> 00:32:42.880 This is like I'm we my husband and I are having such a blast, like traveling, and we've gotten really into the motor car world. 00:32:43.119 --> 00:32:46.720 I was the drifting champion at Thermal on our last uh go. 00:32:47.359 --> 00:32:49.119 I mean, you know, go you. 00:32:49.359 --> 00:32:49.680 There you go. 00:32:49.759 --> 00:32:50.799 That's a flax. 00:32:51.519 --> 00:33:02.079 But I think, you know, to that point, God willing, everyone's kid ends up walking, talking, speaking, wiping their butts, weeding. 00:33:02.640 --> 00:33:04.480 Everyone does it in their own time. 00:33:04.720 --> 00:33:18.559 And you know, who you are at seven or even seven years into your brand, no one knows and no one needs to know that you couldn't walk, talk, read, write until you were four. 00:33:18.799 --> 00:33:21.039 It doesn't matter. 00:33:21.359 --> 00:33:27.519 And if only, you know, while you're in the thick of it, that someone taps you on the shoulder, say, it doesn't matter the shit you're going through right now. 00:33:27.599 --> 00:33:28.240 It doesn't matter. 00:33:28.559 --> 00:33:29.279 Doesn't matter. 00:33:29.519 --> 00:33:30.160 You'll get there. 00:33:30.240 --> 00:33:32.000 And if you don't get there, then you know what? 00:33:32.079 --> 00:33:33.440 You'll do something else. 00:33:33.759 --> 00:33:34.640 Life is long. 00:33:34.799 --> 00:33:37.039 That's how I am now into saying that. 00:33:37.359 --> 00:33:39.359 Uh, you're so, so right. 00:33:39.839 --> 00:33:50.319 Because I think, right, when you get so and we're we're seeing a lot of things change, like in the world of uh companies being purchased and taken over, and no matter what, right? 00:33:50.400 --> 00:33:57.599 Like your life is here and now, and without going out attitudes, like we have one responsibility, right? 00:33:57.680 --> 00:33:59.920 To always be in the practice of living. 00:34:00.160 --> 00:34:08.000 And whatever the things uh like I I've had this conversation so many times where people say, you know, if you love what you do, you never work a day in your life. 00:34:08.159 --> 00:34:09.440 I'm like, bullshit. 00:34:09.840 --> 00:34:11.360 Well, I'm up at 2 a.m. 00:34:11.760 --> 00:34:16.239 figuring out how to pay the bills and get an order done uh taken care of. 00:34:16.400 --> 00:34:26.559 But what I is when you love what you do, it drives you to accomplish and to work all the crazy hours. 00:34:26.880 --> 00:34:34.239 But I feel like my life now is just this sort of compilation of everything I love to do, I just throw it in the basket. 00:34:34.320 --> 00:34:37.760 I don't try to like balance my life, I try to blend everything. 00:34:38.079 --> 00:34:45.119 And yeah, I'm I just look at what is it I want to like look back on every day that I did the day before. 00:34:45.360 --> 00:34:50.320 It's been actually interesting too, because I'm crossing so many pieces. 00:34:50.400 --> 00:34:54.639 I've been doing a lot of public speaking, and I'm really loving that. 00:34:54.719 --> 00:35:00.639 And I'm loving how that kind of I get to tell the story of drama and ambition. 00:35:00.719 --> 00:35:05.679 And I feel I usually talk about resilience in personally and professionally. 00:35:06.079 --> 00:35:10.159 And I'll talk to so many people who say, How can you do all these things? 00:35:10.239 --> 00:35:11.199 You're doing so much. 00:35:11.360 --> 00:35:14.239 And I think, I don't feel like I'm doing so much at all. 00:35:14.320 --> 00:35:16.880 I feel like I'm just doing stuff I love to do. 00:35:17.440 --> 00:35:17.840 Right. 00:35:18.000 --> 00:35:18.719 Oh my God. 00:35:18.960 --> 00:35:25.599 Nancy, this has been a joy, and selfishly, I'm so happy we were able to get you on. 00:35:25.840 --> 00:35:31.280 How can we find you, follow you, learn more about Jama and Ambition? 00:35:32.000 --> 00:35:38.239 So the websites are Jama, J A M A H dot com andambition.org. 00:35:38.719 --> 00:35:44.400 And Instagram is Jama Bags, J-A-M-A-H, B-A-G-S. 00:35:45.039 --> 00:35:46.639 Oh my gosh, thank you so much. 00:35:46.800 --> 00:35:48.960 Can't wait to see the next collection. 00:35:49.199 --> 00:35:50.480 Thanks so much. 00:35:51.119 --> 00:35:52.159 Thanks for listening. 00:35:52.320 --> 00:35:57.679 Don't forget to rate and review and follow us on every single platform at handbagdesigner. 00:35:57.760 --> 00:35:58.480 Thanks so much. 00:35:58.639 --> 00:35:59.920 See you next time.