TRANSCRIPCIÓN 🔗
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Hi everybody, it's no show.
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I'm Matt Brown with Jeff Borman, the Michelin star.
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It's what we're talking about today.
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Michelin Guides.
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The gold standard, still in this digital era of ratings and rankings.
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They did it first.
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Well, maybe they did.
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We'll find out.
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They did it better.
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Well, we'll find out about that too.
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That's debatable.
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But they certainly did it in a way that set the template for how restaurants and hotels are rated.
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What is worth your time and what is worth your money?
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Michelin guides, in short, help travelers choose restaurants through anonymous professional inspection.
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This is something that I think everybody knows, sort of, but I'm just gonna kind of state this.
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Because, you know, who knows?
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Maybe you just walked in from another planet.
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It's like, oh, Michelin star sounds great.
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How do I use it?
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The guides, they award, the guides award one, two, or three stars for cooking.
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And then they have a separate thing called Bib Gourmand, which sounds like a brother of Jabba the Hutt, that recognizes good food at good value.
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They also recommend restaurants without either distinction.
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And these selections live online and an app, and of course, a very famous printed guide that is still available on the market.
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They also recommend hotels and they award one, two, or three Michelin keys for exceptional stays.
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And the hotel assessments consider design and service and character and value and the property's contribution to its destination.
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And of course, travelers can book hotels through all these platforms, a model that has been picked up by OTAs for the last 30 years.
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So we're going to dive in today in the first of a two-part series on the Michelin guide and the Michelin star and the Michelin key.
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But first, Jeff Borman, have you ever eaten at a Michelin-starred restaurant?
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Yes, I have.
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Several.
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I am not surprised.
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In fact, I was lucky enough when I was uh with Ritz Carlton uh out of the regional office in Asia in Hong Kong, uh, that our hotel Ritz Carlton Osaka had uh two restaurants in the hotel with a Michelin star.
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One of them with one of them with two stars, La Bay, the French restaurant.
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Uh no longer a starred restaurant, by the way.
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But uh yeah, when I was there, and that was probably the first Michelin star restaurant I had been to.
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Uh and go figure it was French, a French restaurant in Osaka, Japan.
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Let's dig into the history here a little bit of the Michelin guide, how it started.
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What do you want to what do you want to start this journey through time and space?
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Well, I mean, let's start at the beginning.
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So Michelin is a tire company.
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I think most people know that, but maybe not anymore.
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Uh how did a tire company become the dinner police?
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And uh it's an interesting story that goes to creating demand.
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So uh a Michelin star today, as we know, Matt, can it can change a restaurant's reservations and pricing and the recruiting, can change a chef's blood pressure.
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Uh, but it began as a way to sell more tires.
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The first guide was published in 1900 and it ran about 400 pages.
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Its mission was simple.
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It helped motorists find fuel and repairs and food and beds and doctors.
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Driving required preparation in a way that I think we feel a little distant from today because you take your phone.
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In fact, when you don't have your phone, you freak out, but because it now gives you all the information that the Michelin guide used to give you.
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Michelin made the whole enterprise of driving and going somewhere way easier, and it gave people somewhere worth driving to.
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So you get more trips, more worn tires.
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Yeah, you had to know where are you going to find fuel, where are you gonna repair a vehicle, where to sleep and eat.
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In 1908, Michelin established an itinerary's office and in 1910 introduced a roadmap series.
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And I mean, Matt, even think to our youth and probably our parents' heyday on great American road trips, the AAA triptick.
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Well, that was actually preceded about a century earlier by Michelin in France.
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It also is a famous lesson in uh creating demand and charging for something that used to be free.
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Michelin's story is essentially that the founder saw copies being used to prop up a workbench.
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So in 1920, after about 20 years of this of this
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guide being out, the company started charging people seven francs and then it removed paid advertisements.
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So it wouldn't look like a circular.
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It wouldn't look, in their eyes, cheap.
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So the charging made it this this clear promise about whose interest the recommendations served.
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Yours.
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Not the restaurants, yours.
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Does that still hold a hundred years later?
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I don't know.
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Maybe not the verdict's out.
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Yeah, you sell the reason to travel, and then you'll sell the product needed to get there.
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Restaurant becomes the attraction, tires benefit in the background.
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Uh but a while ago, United used to stuff their seatbacks with the United magazine, and it included three perfect days.
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Do you remember that?
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This sounds vaguely familiar.
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Yeah.
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If you don't remember, I promise you that they were not doing three perfect days in places where United did not have a hub.
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You know, I think it became a kingmaker, right?
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Uh, from some of the originals, like Eugenie Brazier, one of my favorite names to pronounce, right?
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Uh, she had two restaurants, three stars each in the 30s.
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Uh, and then just about every celeb chef that you've heard of today on you know entire food network programming around people who are dedicated going to win a Michelin star.
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But uh it it can convey with that too, right?
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Gordon Ramsay, not one of my favorites, but he led a two-star restaurant, Aubergine.
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And subsequently, he left.
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He earned his third star.
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Well, his sous chef, Claire Smith, she goes on to leave Gordon Ramsay.
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She starts her restaurant court, also three stars.
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Uh, the recognition formally belongs to the restaurant, but the public often gives credit to the chef.
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So chef goes, Michelin acts as a kingmaker.
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Let's talk for a second, too, about like what the stars actually mean, or at least what they meant.
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I think they still, I think they still adhere to this definition.
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But uh, when the star system came into place, one star means that this is worth stopping for.
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And two stars means that it's worth a detour, and three stars means that it's worth a special journey.
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It's interesting to see as that has morphed over the years uh with the modern restaurant world, how those things I think are still probably true, even though I think there's probably a little bit less distinction between a one and a three-star restaurant, at least to civilians.
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I know in that world, in the restaurant world, there's a big difference between those two, but the top rating is effectively staying, look, book a train, get a hotel, organize your weekend around dinner.
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And that's probably true for some of the three stars.
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They're probably cheap.
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Matt, I think you got that reversed.
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Like for a three-star mission on a restaurant, you wait to get the restaurant reservation.
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And when you are awarded a seat at the table, literally, uh, then you'll book your flight near a hotel afterwards.
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Right.
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Right.
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Which is, I mean, kind of goes back to the original how this thing started in the late 1800s, right?
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Which was uh get them to the place and they'll buy the hotel and they'll travel there later.
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One of my favorite uses of the guide was in World War II.
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And in fact, if you go back and uh watch World War II movies, or at least movies made about World War II, that the United States reproduced the 1939 guide for military use during the liberation of France.
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All the town plans offered these useful street-level details, especially where road signs had been removed and buildings had been destroyed.
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You could still kind of get into the guide and get a general layout of the town.
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And you could get a general layout of where hotels and restaurants were.
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The guide had accumulated enough practical knowledge to essentially become military equipment.
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I love the same publication that could help you find the best dinner in a French countryside in peacetime and then navigate that town for liberation.
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Pretty cool.
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Yeah, the Michelin guide had been a known entity throughout the 20th century, obviously.
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But I do feel like it entered another kind of zone starting, I would say in the 80s, 90s, as restaurant culture and fine dining culture in America took off, the Michelin guide started to become more of a thing.
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I don't remember, not that we were that erudite as kids, though I would imagine we were pretty erudite.
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I don't remember people talking in the mid to late 80s or early 90s as much
about Michelin-starred restaurants as they would say 10 or 20 years later.
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Like once you get to the 21st century, this is a thing that shows up on the front pages of the New York Times when the stars come out.
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90s, early 2000s, not only do you have maybe more awareness, more restaurants and more awareness of fine dining, but you've got the rise of review systems online.
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You've got the rise of cable food shows.
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And while those are certainly peripheral, maybe, I think Michelin's status as kind of the old warrior in that world got another bump.
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In the midst of TripAdvisor and all the other kind of early internet ranking and rating systems, Michelin was able to leverage a lot of its history to kind of establish some authority.
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And I just want to mention that Michelin as a company still owns the guide.
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It remains part of the same French tire company that created it 126 years ago.
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Like you'd figure in the age of media consolidation here that some outside entity would have bought it or at least partnered with the company.
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So that's like, look, this isn't what you do.
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We do media, we'll take over the guide.
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You will still have your name on it, we'll give you a partnership fee.
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But Michelin, Michelin still owns it outright.
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Until the 1990s, Michelin was really just focused on Europe.
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Uh, and in 2005-6 is when they published their first guide to New York City.
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Uh, in about a year later, they did Tokyo.
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And the year after that, Hong Kong and Macau started to follow.
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And so the decisive move out of Europe into North America and Asia happened around the time large rating systems, like you mentioned, TripAdvisor and the like, were really starting to gain some ground.
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Michelin had authority in the space, uh, but they didn't have a presence there outside of Europe at the time.
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Uh, from call it the next era, 15 to 18, uh, they started really adding countries all around the world: Brazil, uh, Seoul, Bangkok, and Taipei.
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Uh, they didn't get to Canada until 2022.
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Think about that.
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For all the quality fine dining in Toronto and Vancouver or Dubai, they didn't even get there until COVID.
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So I mean, it seems like Michelin's been a global thing for much longer than it really has as a rating system.
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It's interesting to think of the United States as the Michelin gods of Brooklyn or San Fernando Valley.
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You know, it's like when I moved to New York City.
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You mean overpriced?
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Yes, exactly.
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When I moved to New York, every food review of a restaurant in Brooklyn would start with something along the lines of like, oh, I made my way across the bridge.
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Like they were, like they were crossing into some misty foreign land that would always be this kind of exotic, like, wow, you'll never believe what I found in Brooklyn Heights.
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It's like, I think we can believe it, man.
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It's to it's it's not, this isn't the 1860s.
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We're, you know, it's it's 2007.
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I think there's probably some okay restaurants out there for you to check out.
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It's interesting that America kind of had a little bit of that guff thrown its way by Europe.
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It's like, what could there possibly be worth starring a North America?
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Nothing.
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Nothing, I say.
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The the expansion, though, you have to ask, does it dilute?
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Right one you got 3,900 starred restaurants today, right?
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And a whole bunch of those bib gourmands.
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Uh of the starred restaurants, there are 161 restaurants with three stars.
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That's pretty exclusive global recognition.
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Uh around 552 stars and about just a little over 3,000 with one star.
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At what point does to your I think you mentioned this earlier, having a star versus three, if you're not in the industry itself, would you would you shake it off, Matt?
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You know, like, oh no, I'm not going across town for a two-star restaurant.
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Brooklyn?
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No, sir.
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Well, hasn't this created a lot of tension and stress with chefs?
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I'm trying to remember if Momofuku dealt with this.
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I I need to, I need to go back.
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We need to research maybe for our part two of this.
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Like, chasing that star and losing a star means losing prestige, it means losing sleep.
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And and you know, I was I was reading this thing the other day as we were researching the episode.
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It's like winning the star introduces you to a whole new set of champagne problems because it means more bookings, which is great, but it also means potentially higher prices, often higher prices.
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You got staff
that's going to want more money, good for them.
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You got more expensive ingredients, you got customer expectations that are now through the roof.
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When you walk through and even at a one-star, for civilians who walk in for a special date night and do it, they're expecting something massive.
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An open table analysis in New York found that a star gain increased the probability of a dinner period being sold out by eight points.
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That's pretty significant.
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Uh, the analysis found no statistically significant demand decline after you lose a star.
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So maybe Matt, the best strategy is to get one and get rid of it.
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We also saw a study on pricing.
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Restaurants that reached a third star at some point in our lives, their prices went up dramatically, not unexpected.
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Uh, but for your first star, you can count on a 30% menu increase.
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Same thing you had yesterday, 30% more.
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Another star, another 30%.
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And by the time you get to the difference of menu pricing, there is a 500% revenue premium being paid at a three-star restaurant than what they'd have had prior to being starred.
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That's kind of hard to find, though.
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There's some loose data going around there, right?
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You don't just go zero to three.
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So there's a build.
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Uh, but when you look at corresponding and similar restaurants, 500 more than a 500% increase in what you pay as a diner because of that star uh might actually be a bit of a turnoff.
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And I think that's what gets you to the champagne problems of the restaurant tour and the chef is that uh we've actually seen ratings drop, like approval ratings by diners decline as the stars go up because that expectation and that price point rise so dramatically.
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There was a place in Atlanta.
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I don't know.
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Have you ever been to Lazy Betty in Atlanta?
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You spent a lot of time.
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No, but I've heard of it.
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I've heard of it.
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When they got their first star, they said they had a 30% increase in business the day, you know, in reservations, the day the star was released.
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Well, and it creates expectations, and those expectations are felt by everybody.
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British and Irish research found that trip advisor ratings improved after star losses.
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Lower expectations kind of help people feel more comfortable.
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People become less demanding about service and they become less focused on value, and they're not they're not freaked out about the price.
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Now, for the 1% of people out there who go to Michelin star restaurants all the time, that's not a problem.
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But for everybody else who's out on date night, those are things that are going to come up.
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You're always going to be thinking about the money.
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Yeah.
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And it's really the chef Sebastian Brahe, who had a restaurant, Le Suque.
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It was a family restaurant.
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Uh it got its third star in 1999.
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He took over from his father, Michelle, in 2007.
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In 2017, he asked Michelin leave the restaurant out of its next guide.
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And he described the pressures of the anonymous inspections and just wanting to have greater freedom to cook.
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And so in 2018, Michelin honored the request.
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And then in 2019, they put him right back in with two stars.
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I wonder what Bourdain would think of that.
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Was he a star?
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I can't remember if he was a star guy.
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I don't think he was.
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He wasn't like a real star fan.
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No, Leal was not a starred restaurant.
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I also think to a lot of the conversations we're having, I don't know if he'd have wanted it to be.
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I mean, no.
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Well, here's what we do know about Anthony Bourdain.
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Uh, he said passionately about his show no reservations, uh, we destroy what we love on this show.
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Uh, and what he meant by that was the flood of tourists that would arrive after the television exposure, uh, that was that destroyed the vibe of a place.
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Restaurants would expand on all that popularity.
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Uh, places became less charming.
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They're packed.
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Uh, longtime customers got frustrated.
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You lost the culture of the neighborhood.
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Uh, he was, I think he was pretty clear that at least maybe not on Michelin stars, but that the publicity that came with either his show or something like a guide can often destroy the place.
00:17:19.039 --> 00:17:27.119
Michelin reported 7 million social media followers and 3.5 million active app users in 2025.
00:17:27.440 --> 00:17:32.079
Its recommendations also circulate through restaurant
publicity and travel coverage, of course.
00:17:32.319 --> 00:17:42.960
The badge reaches customers who have never opened a Michelin guide, will never buy it, will never even get on the site, but they just know it because the the recycle of the brand is so powerful.
00:17:43.200 --> 00:17:52.480
And because it's so powerful, as a lot of people who listen to this podcast have probably heard or read, uh, there become partnerships.
00:17:52.640 --> 00:17:59.839
Whenever you have whenever you have influence and access, you start hearing the word partnership a lot.
00:18:00.799 --> 00:18:07.839
And cities and states, without question, pay to enter Michelin's field of vision.
00:18:08.160 --> 00:18:21.839
Tourism organizations have committed substantial sums to destination partnerships, for instance,$2.7 million over three years for an arrangement that Texas got into with Michelin.
00:18:22.240 --> 00:18:28.240
Now, that arrangement, I think, covered Austin, Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston, San Antonio, all the big cities.
00:18:28.559 --> 00:18:32.160
Sorry, Marfa, sorry, Tyler, we'll come, I'll come for you next.
00:18:32.400 --> 00:18:41.279
Each of those cities committed about$270,000 over three years, with the state matching their combined contribution.
00:18:41.680 --> 00:18:53.359
No stars are guaranteed, but this is obviously something that the tourism boards and the state tourism office are all in coordination with each other about.
00:18:53.920 --> 00:18:58.640
Even Boston, I think, just paid over about a million for three years.
00:18:59.119 --> 00:19:00.319
I hadn't heard that about Boston.
00:19:00.799 --> 00:19:07.200
Buffalo uh recently declined a funding proposal, as they would call it.
00:19:07.359 --> 00:19:09.119
Uh, you don't call it a ransom, Matt.
00:19:09.200 --> 00:19:10.079
It's a funding proposal.
00:19:10.240 --> 00:19:16.480
But the tourism chief of Buffalo questioned a financial commitment the return and turned it down.
00:19:16.640 --> 00:19:34.480
Uh I was in, I was still a resident in Virginia uh when the state declined, I think it was$120,000 annually, uh, to be well, in and obviously they've been chosen to be out of uh some southern expansion of Michelin star of Michelin ratings.
00:19:34.720 --> 00:19:38.079
And Washington, DC, of course, right across River State Inn.
00:19:38.240 --> 00:19:50.079
So the Inn at Little Washington, one of America's great restaurants, uh continued to appear in the Washington Guide, interestingly enough, not in Virginia, even though it's at least an hour into Virginia.
00:19:50.240 --> 00:20:02.319
Uh but its inclusion, I guess, says that you know Virginia's decision not to pay the price to be rated, uh, it didn't end Michelin's coverage, but kind of damaged it a little bit.
00:20:04.000 --> 00:20:10.079
I wonder why the Michelin rankings it doesn't seem like they affect hotels that much.
00:20:10.319 --> 00:20:15.680
For all your time in hotels, do you did you ever sweat Michelin keys?
00:20:16.000 --> 00:20:24.960
Uh you know, Matt, I'm gonna dance around this a little bit, but uh because m my employer today has two properties with two Michelin keys.
00:20:25.200 --> 00:20:26.400
Oh, how delightful.
00:20:26.640 --> 00:20:28.240
It is though they're they're both delightful.
00:20:28.480 --> 00:20:29.119
Good for them.
00:20:29.680 --> 00:20:33.359
So I say I'll dance around this because we no, you we don't chase it.
00:20:33.680 --> 00:20:35.599
It doesn't feel like it's as I here's the point.
00:20:35.839 --> 00:20:38.240
It's not it's but we appreciate the hell out of it.
00:20:38.400 --> 00:20:38.640
Right.
00:20:38.799 --> 00:20:41.200
It's not that you shouldn't chase it necessarily.
00:20:41.359 --> 00:20:46.799
It's just it feels like the weight of it in the hotel world is very different than the weight in the restaurant world.
00:20:46.880 --> 00:20:56.880
Like in the restaurant world, a Michelin star and like maybe like a James Beard Award, maybe one or two other things are like are the the the now the gold standards, like everybody aims for those things.
00:20:57.039 --> 00:21:03.119
Whereas in hotels, I don't hear a lot of language and hospitality about oh, we really need that key.
00:21:03.440 --> 00:21:03.839
Right.
00:21:04.000 --> 00:21:16.160
You know, what I was just saying about the 500% price increase uh when a restaurant gets its third star, I promise you there's no 500% price increase when we want our second Michelin key.
00:21:16.319 --> 00:21:16.960
Right, right.
00:21:17.039 --> 00:21:17.839
No, exactly.
00:21:18.079 --> 00:21:19.440
That doesn't work quite that way.
00:21:19.599 --> 00:21:30.880
But you know, I think in a way though, like the Michelin key, while it is uh somewhat distinct in how elevated it is, as compared to call again, trip advisor ratings or something like that.
00:21:31.039 --> 00:21:37.039
Um or even just the star ratings that you see the customer reviews on a booking.com or an expedia, right?
00:21:37.119 --> 00:21:45.599
They may not be branded like all the others were thrown out there, but uh that's something we should probably get into a little bit more because a deep dive into what do the ratings mean.
00:21:45.759 --> 00:21:54.000
Is it does it matter that Michelin has the authority to send a mystery shopper and that person knows the industry so well they know what to look for?
00:21:54.240 --> 00:22:01.680
Or the wisdom of the masses when you've got 40,000 reviews over a decade by people who simply bought it on Expedia?
00:22:02.160 --> 00:22:10.720
Two years ago, uh I think in 24, Michelin launched its keys in France, and in 25 they went global with it.
00:22:10.960 --> 00:22:14.559
There are two and a half thousand hotels that they recognize.
00:22:14.880 --> 00:22:22.319
About eighteen hundred of them have a key, around six hundred with two keys, and just about a hundred and fifty with three keys.
00:22:22.720 --> 00:22:31.759
The hotels first got into Michelin's selection based on design, service, the personality of the product, the hotel, they the value, and the location.
00:22:31.920 --> 00:22:36.160
Uh and it's a bit of an expansion because Michelin bought tablet hotels in 2018.
00:22:36.640 --> 00:22:38.240
They didn't buy the company for nothing.
00:22:38.319 --> 00:22:42.160
They earned commission on those bookings that they make through the tablet platform.
00:22:42.400 --> 00:22:51.119
Uh and it is actually a very high-end, nice platform to shop for luxury products, luxury hotels.
00:22:51.440 --> 00:22:56.000
So from tablet, they kind of expanded a little bit and began raiding raiding hotels.
00:22:56.079 --> 00:22:56.400
Why not?
00:22:56.559 --> 00:22:59.839
They were already then getting into the hotel business, had gotten into the hotel business.
00:23:00.000 --> 00:23:05.680
They are already associated and affiliated for a century with high-quality luxury experiences in dining.
00:23:05.839 --> 00:23:08.799
Why not establish or transfer that over to the hotel world?
00:23:08.960 --> 00:23:09.759
And so they have.
00:23:09.920 --> 00:23:15.039
And Michelin says that nobody pays, you know, hotels do not pay for fee selection.
00:23:15.279 --> 00:23:17.039
I can attest that's true.
00:23:17.279 --> 00:23:21.839
They pay for their own flights, they pay for their own hotel stay, they're anonymous, so we have no idea when they're coming.
00:23:21.920 --> 00:23:23.519
All that is very true.
00:23:23.759 --> 00:23:28.799
Um you do have some restrictions to use their branded collateral.
00:23:29.039 --> 00:23:38.559
If I would like to market that key on my digital content, if I would like to include the award, uh, I do need to buy the rights to share that award.
00:23:38.799 --> 00:23:40.799
So I can't just put it on there having one it.
00:23:41.039 --> 00:23:44.960
I have to make sure I buy the rights to the logo.
00:23:45.200 --> 00:23:45.440
Right?
00:23:45.519 --> 00:23:49.519
So there's a little bit of that that goes on, but it's quite frankly, it's very reasonable.
00:23:49.680 --> 00:23:59.519
And when I look at you know, just the hotel you're in me, when I look at how much we pay for presence in rating ratings guides, this one is not exorbitant.
00:23:59.759 --> 00:24:07.279
And I think it remains some credibility that they are doing it anonymously and that they can only capitalize after the fact.
00:24:07.599 --> 00:24:12.079
So in the next episode, we'll talk a little bit about Michelin's future.
00:24:12.240 --> 00:24:26.720
We'll talk about Michelin's legacy, how it affected every other rating system in the world, and we'll look at kind of the general state of the union of ratings and what do ratings mean in the influencer era.
00:24:27.519 --> 00:24:33.920
And all questions I'm sure we will be able to answer easily within twenty to twenty five minutes.