ТРАНСКРИПЦИЯ 🔗
WEBVTT
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If you walk around the city on a weekend, you
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have no trouble finding stores and pop -ups selling
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secondhand and vintage clothes. But do you think
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all these people browsing know that just by buying
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someone's old clothes they're taking part in
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the circular economy? Let's talk about it. Welcome
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to the Circle Up podcast, where we tell the stories
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of the circular economy in Philadelphia. Well,
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so let's circle up. I'm Candice Lawton, the executive
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director of Circular Philadelphia. And I'm Sam
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Wichin, one of the co -founders of Circular Philadelphia.
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In the last episode, we heard all about how Philly
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businesses are keeping goods in circulation for
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as long as possible through resale. And one of
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the things I was struck by was what Karen at
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the resource exchange said about the challenges
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related to textile recycling infrastructure.
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Yeah, when we first started Circular Philadelphia,
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I really felt strongly that textiles should be
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a focus area for us, partially because clothing
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and textile waste is such a colossal issue, but
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also because the pace of textile waste production
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is accelerating with the rise of ultrafast fashion
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brands like Chien and Temo. In Philly alone,
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residents throw out almost 35 ,000 tons of textiles
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each year. And that's the equivalent of 36 pairs
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of jeans per Philadelphian. But Philadelphians
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also donate 6 ,200 tons of textiles each year.
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That's a little more than six pairs of jeans
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per person. About 20 % of those clothes and other
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textiles get resold in thrift stores and second
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-hand shops. And thanks to the environmental
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consciousness of Millennials and Gen Z, there's
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been a boom in secondhand shopping. In fact,
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the U .S. secondhand clothing market is growing
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five times faster than the broader clothing market.
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And that's according to Secondhand Apparel Marketplace
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Threat Ops 2025 Resale Report. The U .S. secondhand
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apparel market is expected to reach $74 billion
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by 2029. And then there's the other 80 % of donated
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textiles that don't get resold. What happens
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to that? Well, some of it ends up downcycled
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into things like insulation or furniture stuffing.
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Some of it gets repurposed into other things
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like industrial rags. And some of it gets straight
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up landfilled. And a lot of it gets shipped to
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the Global South. And here's where things come
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full circle. See what I did there? Remember Dave
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Bluveman from Circle Compost who we talked to
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in episode three? Yeah. Prior to starting Circle
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Compost, he had another career in the textile
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recycling world. No way. It's so cool how people
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in the sustainability space work across industries,
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but still all within the circular economy. Totally.
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And to start off this episode's dive into textiles,
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Dave's going to give a look into the wide world
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of clothing and textile recycling. Prior to Circle
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Compost, I had a career in the textile recycling
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world. The Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles
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Association, also known as the SMART Association
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acronym. So I was very involved with that group
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and that group had a mission to prevent textiles
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from going to landfills, which is a wonderful
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mission. Landfill composition is about 5 % textiles.
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A crazy amount of tonnage every year going to
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landfills. You know, fast fashion is a huge issue
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and the end of life for those products is a huge
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issue. I was on the board of that association
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for 11 years. In like my fifth or sixth year,
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I became an officer. So I ended up being president
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of that organization. And at the time that I
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was involved, which goes back to 2022, there
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were three divisions within the Smart Association.
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All members are private, are for -profit companies.
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So one division had collectors, and there are
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a lot of private companies who do textile
Load full transcript
collection
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across the country. So that's not, you know,
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I think when people think of like, you know,
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donating clothing. They generally think of, you
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know, like a Goodwill or something like that,
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a large non -profit, but, you know, there are
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for -profit companies who do collections, whether
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it's through bins that you see. or through actually
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coming by and picking up from households or organizations,
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picking up bags of clothing, of used clothing.
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The bin side of things, that was always a really
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hot topic within Smart because there are companies
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who do it the right way, who service those bins
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all the time and have proper signage on the bins
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and the bins are in... approved areas, you know,
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approved by whether it's a business letting someone
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keep a bin on their lot or, you know, the city,
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you know, signing off on a bin being kept somewhere.
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But then you have a lot of bad actors when it
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comes to bins. And these bins could be dropped
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anywhere and not serviced. You know, everyone,
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most people have probably seen it at some point
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in their life, you know, an overflowing bin that
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has been rained on and beaten up and whatever
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else. So anyway, that's one side of things, the
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collecting of used clothing. The second division
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was the rag and wiper side. Essentially, stuff
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gets collected by the collectors and then it
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gets sorted and graded. So anything that can
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be resold as a shirt should end up in a thrift
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shop of some kind being sold as a shirt. potentially
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sent overseas which that's also something that's
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gotten some bad press over the years there's
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been some sticky stuff there where stuff actually
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goes when it goes overseas but you know when
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the good guys do it and it's done right it goes
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overseas and it gets worn by somebody in another
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country if it's not fit to be you know clothing
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again it's got holes in or wherever else it could
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potentially be a rag or wiping cloth so then
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you have companies in that area who cut up the
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product and make it into rags. And typically
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rags made from used clothing. And by the way,
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that side, fast fashion has hurt that side of
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things as well because so many of the fast fashion
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type of clothes are made from really cheap materials
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that might not absorb. But if you have something
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that's a high percentage of cotton, you know,
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it can absorb and can be made into a wiping rag.
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So stuff gets collected, then it gets sorted.
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It typically then gets bailed up and sent to
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someone who's going to cut it. And a lot of times
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this stuff is moving around. The sorting, a lot
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of it happens in Pakistan and India. So you do
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have a carbon footprint there. There is some
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of that's still done in the US. It's hard. And
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the companies who do that, I've visited them,
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and they're amazing. But a lot of it happens
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overseas. So product then would go, if it's not
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suitable to be resold, it's clothing. It could
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then be cut up into a rag. There are companies
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who cut it up into rags, box it in a 10 -pound
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box or 25 -pound box, or shrink -wrapped in kind
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of a pack. You can see that even in a Home Depot
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or a Lowe's. They'll sell bagged rags or boxed
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rags. And then the third division was the fiber
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division. Basically, these companies... would
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get the stuff that is not even fit to be a rag.
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So, you know, it can't even be made into a rag
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or a wiping cloth. It's just got to be the only
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thing that can be done with it is to reprocess
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it into fiber. So the company's receiving that
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stuff. They're getting it in bales. They're doing
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the best they can to check the composition so
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they know what their end product is going to
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look like. Then they put it through this huge
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machinery that, you know, rips it up, breaks
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it down, essentially shreds it into
fibers. And
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then they sell a finished product made from those
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fibers. So either they're potentially selling
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a recycled fiber like a recycled polyester fiber
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or they're they're selling something usually
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something called shoddy and shoddy is like It
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kind of looks like insulation material and in
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fact that is where shoddy typically ends up is
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in various insulation applications, so I mean
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you know when I was involved with smart we had
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Some really amazing success stories about denim
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being reprocessed into fiber and then made into
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insulation or automotive insulation being made
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from various plans of polyester and polypropylene
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fibers. But for every success story, there's
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also a lot of stuff that either it can't be reprocessed
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for whatever reason or... if it were to be reprocessed,
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there just isn't an end market or a home for
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it. Since I've been out of that world for a little
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while, I'm not totally up on where things stand,
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but I know that the fiber division and the companies
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that process fiber, they were inundated and overwhelmed
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material or they were... It couldn't make the
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numbers, the financial side of things work. And
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we're going out of business. It's expensive to
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run that equipment. You've got to have good markets
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for your end product. So there are complicated
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systems out there. We would have professors come
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speak or scientists come speak. And a lot of
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things that they presented on, they had developed
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new technologies. They'd done R &D. created,
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whether it was enzymatic breakdown, using actual
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enzymes to break down textiles, or some other
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new technology for sorting and pulling off buttons
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and checking for metal contamination. But oftentimes,
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those technologies were developed or discovered,
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but nobody had any idea how to bring them to
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scale. So they weren't necessarily viable as
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a for -profit business. That's not to say that,
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you know, we couldn't find ways for government
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to invest in those kind of technologies and,
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you know, help us out with all that stuff to
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save the planet. That was Dave Blufman giving
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us the rundown on what happens to clothing once
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it's donated. So let's dig into what happens
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to clothes that can be resold. Thrifting is one
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way to get secondhand clothes and so is consignment,
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where people can sell their clothes through a
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retail store like Another Chance in Fishtown
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and then they make a few bucks on them. I like
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consignment for those pieces in my wardrobe that
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are a little higher quality or unique and someone
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might be willing to pay a little more for them.
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So my name is Holly Heenan and we are at Another
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Chance. It is a consignment and local creators
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boutique shop that I opened. almost a year ago.
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Basically, I sell pre -loved fashion. Most of
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my consignors are local in Fishtown, Port Richmond,
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Northern Liberty's. So I take anything that is
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not stained, that's in good condition. Yeah,
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and I accept all fashion. So I have mostly women.
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a small men's section, which I always call a
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small but mighty men's section, and kids' section.
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I try to take anything. There's always that one
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person that style fits, so I will try anything.
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Thrifting has been a part of me since I could
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go to shops. I will spend hours at a thrift store
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versus in a mall. That started, I guess, in my
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high school days. My friends call me Granola.
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That was my nickname growing up from them. And
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so I actually worked at the first Buffalo Exchange
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in Philadelphia. I'm an accountant by trade,
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and I've been a controller, corporate controller,
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for various companies, mid to large size companies.
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And I went through breast cancer last year. I
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chose that to go and follow my passion, which
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is a consignment shop. It was my turning point,
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yes. It was my
dream, hence another chance. The
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clothes. get another chance, I had another chance,
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and I don't know if many people know this, but
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my daughter was adopted, so she had another chance.
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So we kind of have this theme. Surrounded me,
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my aura. Probably one of the best parts about
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this shop is meeting people that are coming in.
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Like that is my favorite part, literally. As
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an accountant, I was stuck behind a desk, working
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on a computer, and I'm Definitely a people person
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and like just meeting everybody that comes through
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the door. We have a lot of fun here. A lot of
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fun. I try everything. I have sold a wedding
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dress, which I do not do wedding dresses, but
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I was determined. I have sold vintage nightgowns.
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A neighbor of mine had these beautiful vintage
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nightgowns and I said, I'll give it a try. And
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what do you know? Somebody was visiting from
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New York on a weekend to visit Fishtown, and
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they bought this vintage nightgown that was,
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I think, $70. But it's that one particular person
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that fits that style. And it's fun. It's so much
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fun. It is overwhelming how much clothing we
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discard. There's landfills of clothing that are
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getting discarded. So anything that we can do
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to kind of repeat the cycle of life or something
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instead of throwing it in the trash is part of
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the circular, right? Circular Philadelphia. to
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me like I even if I get things in here that may
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have like a stain on it that I missed I have
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a five dollar bin because somebody out there
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can use it or it can get the stain out but or
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I donated to Circle Thrift or also now I'm going
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to work with a family member of mine who collects
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clothing for the homeless so for me it's I still
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even if it has like a a tiny hole in it. I try
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not to, there's no need to throw it out. There's
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somebody else that can use it in some sort of
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way. I have a customer that came in I guess a
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few weeks ago who is local that I'm going to
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partner with and he was looking for old silk
00:14:56.220 --> 00:15:03.940
napkins or vintage fabrics that he's making into
00:15:03.940 --> 00:15:06.789
t -shirts to tank tops. which is very cool. Yeah,
00:15:06.889 --> 00:15:09.950
yeah. So anything can be turned into something.
00:15:10.830 --> 00:15:13.429
And the more that we can keep it out of the landfills,
00:15:13.490 --> 00:15:17.110
the better. And that's, I think, the beauty of
00:15:17.110 --> 00:15:21.830
the consignment industry, right? Is that if you're
00:15:21.830 --> 00:15:25.149
if you're buying it from here, you can wear it
00:15:25.149 --> 00:15:28.929
a few times. And then once you are, you know,
00:15:28.929 --> 00:15:33.549
it's time to give it to somebody else, come back
00:15:33.549 --> 00:15:37.450
and Consign it again as long as it's in pre -love
00:15:37.450 --> 00:15:40.250
condition I think there's now a lot of like the
00:15:40.250 --> 00:15:42.970
online places that you can rent you can rent
00:15:42.970 --> 00:15:46.389
clothes, which is beautiful You also have the
00:15:46.389 --> 00:15:48.870
option to buy it but then you can but just giving
00:15:48.870 --> 00:15:53.710
the rent That option is then I believe keeping
00:15:53.710 --> 00:15:56.370
it out of the landfill. So if we can do more
00:15:56.370 --> 00:15:58.809
of that, that's beautiful I mean fast fashion
00:15:58.809 --> 00:16:02.799
isn't new when I was Working at the British Heart
00:16:02.799 --> 00:16:06.860
Foundation in England and that was about I guess
00:16:06.860 --> 00:16:10.580
20 years ago Top shop like all of those like
00:16:10.580 --> 00:16:14.080
that was all fast fashion I think what is happening
00:16:14.080 --> 00:16:17.059
now is that now you have your sheens and they're
00:16:17.059 --> 00:16:19.980
like they're so cheap which you know back in
00:16:19.980 --> 00:16:22.200
the day wasn't that cheap but now they're very
00:16:22.200 --> 00:16:25.779
cheap that I think it just is increasing how
00:16:25.779 --> 00:16:29.519
much is getting you know getting bought and kind
00:16:29.519 --> 00:16:34.320
of heading to the landfill. I'm not one that,
00:16:34.740 --> 00:16:39.179
I'm not buying off a sheen, but if I saw a sheen
00:16:39.179 --> 00:16:42.620
piece in the thrift store and I like the style
00:16:42.620 --> 00:16:46.340
and it fit well, yeah, I'll pick it up. I know
00:16:46.340 --> 00:16:48.620
it's not gonna last forever, but the way I think
00:16:48.620 --> 00:16:51.740
of it too is that I'm keeping it out of the landfill
00:16:51.740 --> 00:16:59.220
also. everybody buys from Amazon and they say
00:16:59.220 --> 00:17:02.159
don't return it it's cheaper for them just to
00:17:02.159 --> 00:17:04.519
give you the credit for it so I I assume that
00:17:04.519 --> 00:17:06.559
is definitely happening with fast fashion yeah
00:17:06.559 --> 00:17:11.400
I've seen on the local Facebook
places that hey
00:17:11.400 --> 00:17:14.079
are buy nothing pages right they're like they
00:17:14.079 --> 00:17:15.900
told us told me I didn't have to return this
00:17:15.900 --> 00:17:18.779
but they gave me credit so putting it out there
00:17:18.779 --> 00:17:20.759
if anybody wants this because I didn't have to
00:17:20.759 --> 00:17:23.559
pay for it. I mean, I have a lot of consignors,
00:17:23.640 --> 00:17:26.500
a lot of consignors that they miss the window
00:17:26.500 --> 00:17:29.759
of returning. So I get a lot of things new with
00:17:29.759 --> 00:17:36.619
tags just because of that. Yeah. A thrift store
00:17:36.619 --> 00:17:41.440
is where you donate clothing. Usually they are,
00:17:41.440 --> 00:17:45.220
some are nonprofit and some are for profit. Circle
00:17:45.220 --> 00:17:48.990
Thrift, which is local, is nonprofit. and their
00:17:48.990 --> 00:17:53.970
proceeds then go to a non -profit organization
00:17:53.970 --> 00:17:59.329
to help those in need. For myself, I'm a for
00:17:59.329 --> 00:18:02.470
-profit, which is a consignment shop, and we
00:18:02.470 --> 00:18:06.890
benefit, obviously, the owner. I make money from
00:18:06.890 --> 00:18:10.009
the consignment, and so does the consigner. So
00:18:10.009 --> 00:18:14.009
they either get credit to use in the shop or
00:18:14.009 --> 00:18:17.579
cash to take home in their pocket. The consignment
00:18:17.579 --> 00:18:22.400
is 50 -50 cash for the consignors or 60 -40 credit.
00:18:23.299 --> 00:18:26.099
When they bring it in, everything gets steamed
00:18:26.099 --> 00:18:28.940
before it goes on the floor. I Google image everything.
00:18:29.380 --> 00:18:31.660
And when you Google image, it will tell you,
00:18:31.680 --> 00:18:33.779
even if it's new, it tags. It will tell you if
00:18:33.779 --> 00:18:37.619
it's on sale on the website. So a rule of thumb
00:18:37.619 --> 00:18:41.059
is usually it's a third of the retail price that
00:18:41.059 --> 00:18:45.220
it can sell for. Sometimes new items, if they're
00:18:45.220 --> 00:18:48.730
more of a current style, can go 50 % with newer
00:18:48.730 --> 00:18:54.250
tags. Or if it's an older style, we might go
00:18:54.250 --> 00:18:58.410
a little bit less than third. In addition, sizing,
00:18:58.690 --> 00:19:01.250
right? Sizing is important too. So, you know,
00:19:01.369 --> 00:19:03.490
we probably live in a society where people are
00:19:03.490 --> 00:19:05.750
more medium and large. That's more common. So
00:19:05.750 --> 00:19:09.250
the extra smalls probably get discounted a little
00:19:09.250 --> 00:19:12.950
bit heavily just because there's not as much
00:19:12.950 --> 00:19:22.890
demand for extra small. My goal is not to have
00:19:22.890 --> 00:19:25.609
to return the stuff to the consigner so hence
00:19:25.609 --> 00:19:28.230
when I have trouble if it's not selling here
00:19:28.230 --> 00:19:31.869
in the shop that's why they have the online places
00:19:31.869 --> 00:19:35.009
that I can try and that's usually where they
00:19:35.009 --> 00:19:38.930
they sell. It's so hard to predict especially
00:19:38.930 --> 00:19:43.490
I think in a consignment Situation of course
00:19:43.490 --> 00:19:47.589
dresses shirts are the easiest to go jeans are
00:19:47.589 --> 00:19:51.650
not as fast just because everybody has that Jeans
00:19:51.650 --> 00:19:54.329
come in so many different sizes and a two and
00:19:54.329 --> 00:19:57.930
a gap is a different size a two in a different
00:19:57.930 --> 00:20:01.009
designer So they're they're like probably slower
00:20:01.009 --> 00:20:06.000
to go shoes are usually slower to go sweater.
00:20:06.039 --> 00:20:08.579
We're coming up to our sweater season. I would
00:20:08.579 --> 00:20:13.099
say dresses are probably the fastest to flip
00:20:13.099 --> 00:20:17.420
here at the consignment shop. Yes. Just recently,
00:20:17.920 --> 00:20:20.859
I had, we all know, Freehand Art Supply, a great
00:20:20.859 --> 00:20:24.599
addition to Gerard Avenue. Ron, Kim's husband,
00:20:24.720 --> 00:20:28.759
brought in these Roosevelt shirts that are a
00:20:28.759 --> 00:20:31.819
big thing that, again, this is the fun of having
00:20:31.819 --> 00:20:34.539
this shop because I'm introduced to new brands
00:20:34.539 --> 00:20:39.099
all the time. But they are these fun prints and
00:20:39.099 --> 00:20:44.630
the... the name of the brand is Roosevelt and
00:20:44.630 --> 00:20:48.150
they were hoodies and it was a collaboration
00:20:48.150 --> 00:20:52.630
between Roosevelt and Pixar and I basically put
00:20:52.630 --> 00:20:57.589
them on eBay and they sold within like an hour.
00:20:59.369 --> 00:21:02.230
It's amazing like these are the things that you
00:21:02.230 --> 00:21:04.970
just never know like I was I was new to this
00:21:04.970 --> 00:21:09.069
put it on he told me like a going price and they
00:21:09.069 --> 00:21:13.839
sold just like that. I have definitely repeat
00:21:13.839 --> 00:21:17.759
consignors, repeat customers. My consignors,
00:21:18.759 --> 00:21:21.859
I'm like saying like, hold up, hold off. I have
00:21:21.859 --> 00:21:25.240
like too much because unfortunately my shop is
00:21:25.240 --> 00:21:28.000
on the smaller side. So I only have so much room.
00:21:29.259 --> 00:21:32.740
So they're constantly right now. I'm on pause
00:21:32.740 --> 00:21:36.619
right now, but I have a line, a lineup for when
00:21:36.619 --> 00:21:40.960
I open. The consignment again it's for my consignors
00:21:40.960 --> 00:21:45.900
to come back. I will not have a shortage of consignment
00:21:45.900 --> 00:21:49.059
that's for sure. And then for myself too like
00:21:49.059 --> 00:21:51.339
the whole one of the purpose of this too was
00:21:51.339 --> 00:21:54.619
I love sourcing myself but I don't even get a
00:21:54.619 --> 00:21:57.119
chance to source really anymore and I don't need
00:21:57.119 --> 00:21:59.420
to source which you know again for people that
00:21:59.420 --> 00:22:02.519
love to thrift like that's like we love doing
00:22:02.519 --> 00:22:10.279
that piece. Because it's you have to find that
00:22:10.279 --> 00:22:13.279
one piece like if you go into a mall you're gonna
00:22:13.279 --> 00:22:16.799
find the same style and different colors different
00:22:16.799 --> 00:22:19.299
sizes that everybody is wearing on the street
00:22:19.299 --> 00:22:22.359
when you're going to a thrift store yeah you
00:22:22.359 --> 00:22:25.140
might find popular styles that are out there
00:22:25.140 --> 00:22:28.359
but also you find vintage items like something
00:22:28.359 --> 00:22:32.079
that somebody is never going to wear and i can
00:22:32.079 --> 00:22:33.759
probably tell you that they're probably going
00:22:33.759 --> 00:22:36.480
to be the one piece of clothing that you're going
00:22:36.480 --> 00:22:41.319
to get the most compliments on. What stands out
00:22:41.319 --> 00:22:46.920
for me is there will be this beautiful piece.
00:22:49.480 --> 00:22:52.960
The piece like this right here that's hanging
00:22:52.960 --> 00:22:57.500
up. It is for that particular person and I will
00:22:57.500 --> 00:23:01.779
watch various people come in. try it on because
00:23:01.779 --> 00:23:04.839
they love it and it doesn't fit them and then
00:23:04.839 --> 00:23:08.839
it'll be two months three months later that person
00:23:08.839 --> 00:23:13.480
comes in and it's theirs and it that just makes
00:23:13.480 --> 00:23:17.180
me so excited like that that piece of clothing
00:23:17.180 --> 00:23:20.559
found their particular person like I literally
00:23:20.559 --> 00:23:25.460
I think I scream every time. Really like I get
00:23:25.460 --> 00:23:27.619
so excited. I'm like because it was meant to
00:23:27.619 --> 00:23:30.180
be for that person That's that's the that's the
00:23:30.180 --> 00:23:32.859
fun like I don't mind something because I get
00:23:32.859 --> 00:23:37.200
new customers I get like as I say tourists but
00:23:37.200 --> 00:23:39.660
like people from New York people coming in from
00:23:39.660 --> 00:23:42.599
Ohio like that come in here on the weekends that
00:23:42.599 --> 00:23:45.779
have not been in the shop and they find that
00:23:45.779 --> 00:23:49.559
item that has been here forever and It just fits
00:23:49.559 --> 00:23:56.609
them perfectly So the biggest challenge for me
00:23:56.609 --> 00:23:59.970
first was when I opened was in the fall and then
00:23:59.970 --> 00:24:02.529
we went into winter and it's a lot of foot traffic,
00:24:02.589 --> 00:24:05.430
right? That's where you're gonna get a lot of
00:24:05.430 --> 00:24:07.450
your sales from people just walking by. So if
00:24:07.450 --> 00:24:10.869
the weather is not good, if there is an Eagles
00:24:10.869 --> 00:24:14.859
game on a Sunday. during the day, I know that
00:24:14.859 --> 00:24:17.240
we're gonna be a bit slower that day unless there's
00:24:17.240 --> 00:24:19.619
that particular person that doesn't watch football.
00:24:21.000 --> 00:24:24.000
So that, it's like these ups and downs. I have,
00:24:24.000 --> 00:24:26.380
I'm an accountant, so I have software that can
00:24:26.380 --> 00:24:31.779
track and there's no, there's not, you can't.
00:24:32.799 --> 00:24:36.220
predict a pattern. You can say, okay, the weather's
00:24:36.220 --> 00:24:38.000
gonna be good, okay, I think then we're gonna
00:24:38.000 --> 00:24:40.700
be good, but then the weather can be great and
00:24:40.700 --> 00:24:43.519
then there's no sales. It's all about really
00:24:43.519 --> 00:24:53.000
foot traffic. Competition facilitates sales.
00:24:54.259 --> 00:24:56.859
I have right down the street from me is Trash
00:24:56.859 --> 00:25:02.099
Vintage. They are more on the vintage side. Y2K,
00:25:02.279 --> 00:25:05.819
sports, and I have a small section for sports,
00:25:06.359 --> 00:25:12.480
but I don't see, I think we just facilitate because
00:25:12.480 --> 00:25:14.119
if people want to come there, then they'll stop
00:25:14.119 --> 00:25:16.099
here. People come here, they'll want to stop
00:25:16.099 --> 00:25:18.619
down there because that's what they're looking
00:25:18.619 --> 00:25:20.559
for, right? They're going out shopping for a
00:25:20.559 --> 00:25:25.559
day and they're looking for special finds and...
00:25:25.690 --> 00:25:28.630
pre -loved clothing and thrifting. They're gonna
00:25:28.630 --> 00:25:31.509
shop at all of our places and where they find
00:25:31.509 --> 00:25:34.009
their things, it's great if they find something
00:25:34.009 --> 00:25:36.289
here and not here. I love that. It just brings
00:25:36.289 --> 00:25:41.170
traffic to the area. In the beginning, I guess
00:25:41.170 --> 00:25:43.809
when I first opened, there wasn't really as many
00:25:43.809 --> 00:25:46.460
shops on Gerrata Avenue. I'm from Port Richmond
00:25:46.460 --> 00:25:49.720
and I've seen when the local shops closed up
00:25:49.720 --> 00:25:53.779
and everybody moved to the Burbs or to the Northeast
00:25:53.779 --> 00:25:59.200
or to Jersey that tried up and it's sad. To me
00:25:59.200 --> 00:26:01.680
the biggest thing about local is I'm a small
00:26:01.680 --> 00:26:04.839
business so I want to help other small businesses.
00:26:06.359 --> 00:26:08.640
So the front of the stores are local creators.
00:26:09.069 --> 00:26:12.690
We have everything from Kid Nichols who lives
00:26:12.690 --> 00:26:16.109
right on Columbia Street who has all these fun
00:26:16.109 --> 00:26:20.690
pins and posters that people can relate to. We
00:26:20.690 --> 00:26:25.690
have the 3D little figurines which is actually
00:26:25.690 --> 00:26:27.710
Lorinda used to be the crossing guard right here
00:26:27.710 --> 00:26:30.029
on the corner that retired and this is her nephew
00:26:30.029 --> 00:26:34.509
and then his mom makes the unique custom jewelry
00:26:34.509 --> 00:26:37.849
and uses some of the plastic left over that he
00:26:37.849 -->
00:26:41.089
can't use from the 3D figurines into the earrings.
00:26:41.150 --> 00:26:46.089
So again it's just this recycling kind of try
00:26:46.089 --> 00:26:49.009
to keep as much out of the landfill as possible.
00:26:50.709 --> 00:26:55.029
Super local. That was my goal. My goal was to
00:26:55.029 --> 00:26:58.829
help small businesses, you know, make something
00:26:58.829 --> 00:27:02.289
of their dreams. We have Mr. Softy shirts over
00:27:02.289 --> 00:27:06.910
here and we have Fishtown Stitch and then Turnstyle
00:27:06.910 --> 00:27:11.529
Arts and then the Tarot cards. So yeah, everybody
00:27:11.529 --> 00:27:14.589
is within boundaries of the local neighborhoods
00:27:14.589 --> 00:27:18.900
around here. This past year it's it's huge. I
00:27:18.900 --> 00:27:22.799
have a lot of Parents coming in here. I had one
00:27:22.799 --> 00:27:25.079
parent come in and was like it is so beautiful
00:27:25.079 --> 00:27:27.210
that I don't have to get him They have a birthday
00:27:27.210 --> 00:27:29.269
party to go to. I don't have to get in my car
00:27:29.269 --> 00:27:31.529
to go to Target. I can come to Girard Avenue.
00:27:31.930 --> 00:27:35.269
I can get little figurines for the birthday and
00:27:35.269 --> 00:27:38.089
affordable. And I can hit the plant store. I
00:27:38.089 --> 00:27:40.309
can hit the bookstore. I can hit the coffee shop.
00:27:40.490 --> 00:27:45.849
I can hit modest transitions for knitting. And
00:27:45.849 --> 00:27:51.029
then you also have... the Pokemon trading card
00:27:51.029 --> 00:27:54.049
store that just opened like it is. Yeah, we're
00:27:54.049 --> 00:27:56.930
getting we're getting the retail side now, which
00:27:56.930 --> 00:28:05.750
is very very exciting. Unfortunately, there is
00:28:05.750 --> 00:28:08.690
so much convenience that we're looking for, because
00:28:08.690 --> 00:28:10.869
we're looking for that work -life balance, right?
00:28:10.910 --> 00:28:14.569
We're looking to maybe not be in the shops all
00:28:14.569 --> 00:28:16.769
the time, so it's easy to get on your phone and
00:28:16.769 --> 00:28:23.190
just order something to your door. I mean, we
00:28:23.190 --> 00:28:25.910
see it every day, right? Just walking down Girard
00:28:25.910 --> 00:28:29.269
Avenue, you see all the discarded packages, Amazon
00:28:29.269 --> 00:28:32.680
packages, like that. That's how much we are buying
00:28:32.680 --> 00:28:35.140
and I'm not saying that I'm a saint because I
00:28:35.140 --> 00:28:39.940
am not a saint. I'm a single mom and unfortunately
00:28:39.940 --> 00:28:43.819
I will buy online because it is convenient. We
00:28:43.819 --> 00:28:48.299
all know like the landfills are just getting
00:28:48.299 --> 00:28:53.099
higher and deeper which is then contributing
00:28:53.099 --> 00:28:58.019
to global warming. Like just take care of your
00:28:58.019 --> 00:29:01.819
things. If you're not going to wear it again,
00:29:01.960 --> 00:29:04.500
donate it. Go through your closet every season
00:29:04.500 --> 00:29:09.619
and donate it either to a non -profit organization
00:29:09.619 --> 00:29:15.119
or if it's stuff that has more value, consign
00:29:15.119 --> 00:29:18.630
it. or even looking at other ways. I'm constantly
00:29:18.630 --> 00:29:21.130
looking at, as I said, I'm not a big t -shirt
00:29:21.130 --> 00:29:24.609
fan, but I'll think of ways to cut a t -shirt
00:29:24.609 --> 00:29:27.650
so I can wear it to yoga instead of buying a
00:29:27.650 --> 00:29:31.490
yoga shirt. You know, helping out a family in
00:29:31.490 --> 00:29:34.670
need in your neighborhood. My daughter goes to
00:29:34.670 --> 00:29:38.339
a dare, and I have to tell ya. We do the uniform
00:29:38.339 --> 00:29:41.759
swap and I have not had to buy a uniform because
00:29:41.759 --> 00:29:45.599
of that. It's amazing and they're all in great
00:29:45.599 --> 00:29:49.400
condition. So yeah, anything that you can do
00:29:49.400 --> 00:29:52.079
to just not put it in that trash bag I think
00:29:52.079 --> 00:30:07.259
is great. That was Holly Heenan from Another
00:30:07.259 --> 00:30:09.799
Chance. Thrift stores and consignment shops are
00:30:09.799 --> 00:30:11.640
such an important part of the circular economy
00:30:11.640 --> 00:30:14.480
for textiles. But what about the textiles that
00:30:14.480 --> 00:30:17.519
aren't really wearable anymore? Things with holes
00:30:17.519 --> 00:30:21.079
or stains or funny smells? That's where businesses
00:30:21.079 --> 00:30:23.480
like Stitch and Destroy come in. They make clothes
00:30:23.480 --> 00:30:26.220
out of textiles or old clothes that can't have
00:30:26.220 --> 00:30:27.940
a second life in the condition they're currently
00:30:27.940 --> 00:30:37.289
in. My name is Haven DeAngelis and I'm the owner
00:30:37.289 --> 00:30:40.349
of Stitch and Destroy. So Stitch and Destroy
00:30:40.349 --> 00:30:43.950
is a upcycled alternative fashion brand. We make
00:30:43.950 --> 00:30:46.470
clothing and accessories out of textile waste.
00:30:47.410 --> 00:30:50.869
We are really committed to only using discarded
00:30:50.869 --> 00:30:54.250
clothes, dead stock fabrics, pretty much anything
00:30:54.250 --> 00:30:57.269
you might throw away or discard and then create
00:30:57.269 --> 00:31:01.490
new clothes and accessories from them. but we
00:31:01.490 --> 00:31:05.269
are also a storefront and sell other clothes,
00:31:06.130 --> 00:31:10.490
accessories, collage kits, jewelry from other
00:31:10.490 --> 00:31:15.150
makers in the area. We carry over 25 other artists
00:31:15.150 --> 00:31:17.730
and designers that are local that repurpose an
00:31:17.730 --> 00:31:21.440
upside down. I first learned to sew actually
00:31:21.440 --> 00:31:23.880
in home ec class all the way back in middle school.
00:31:24.680 --> 00:31:27.380
I think a lot of us learn to sew that way or
00:31:27.380 --> 00:31:30.640
a parent teaches us but I really just fell in
00:31:30.640 -->
00:31:33.039
love with it and in high school I would take
00:31:33.039 --> 00:31:35.400
some sewing classes, some fashion design classes
00:31:35.400 --> 00:31:38.480
and eventually I went to art school and studied
00:31:38.480 --> 00:31:40.940
fiber arts at the Maryland Institute College
00:31:40.940 --> 00:31:46.319
of Art and yeah there I learned to really hone
00:31:46.319 --> 00:31:50.789
in on my skills of sewing, making upcycled clothing.
00:31:51.349 --> 00:31:53.829
I also learned the whole gamut of just fiber
00:31:53.829 --> 00:31:57.650
art. So I know how to weave, dye cloth, use a
00:31:57.650 --> 00:32:00.569
knitting machine. I know start from finish of
00:32:00.569 --> 00:32:04.670
how clothing and cloth is made. And I think that
00:32:04.670 --> 00:32:07.690
really inspired me to want to save material,
00:32:07.910 --> 00:32:10.829
keep things out of the landfill. I've also always
00:32:10.829 --> 00:32:15.049
been interested in sustainability and environmentalism
00:32:15.049 --> 00:32:20.609
and just eco practices in general. So the textile
00:32:20.609 --> 00:32:23.049
industry is definitely one of the most polluting
00:32:23.049 --> 00:32:26.849
industries in our world, often cited as the second
00:32:26.849 --> 00:32:29.309
most polluting. I like to say the most polluting
00:32:29.309 --> 00:32:31.470
because there isn't always so many statistics
00:32:31.470 --> 00:32:34.569
around the extreme waste it produces and also
00:32:34.569 --> 00:32:38.950
just the pollution in general. So when textiles
00:32:38.950 --> 00:32:41.569
and garments are made there's so much manufacturing
00:32:41.569 --> 00:32:44.829
that goes into it from the cotton that is grown
00:32:44.829 --> 00:32:48.809
to the any kind of synthetic fibers that are
00:32:48.809 --> 00:32:51.549
produced they come from oils or oil industries
00:32:51.549 --> 00:32:55.430
wrapped up into it and then the whole processing
00:32:55.430 --> 00:32:58.990
and making of the cloth there's a lot of um people
00:32:58.990 --> 00:33:02.930
power that goes into it um dyeing fabric is also
00:33:02.930 --> 00:33:07.549
very intensive on our water supply um so there
00:33:07.549 --> 00:33:11.769
it's a huge industry um and The pollution that
00:33:11.769 --> 00:33:15.990
comes from it is also just the waste, excessive
00:33:15.990 --> 00:33:19.970
waste that comes off of the sewing and cutting
00:33:19.970 --> 00:33:25.130
production rooms. So it's producing hundreds
00:33:25.130 --> 00:33:28.890
and hundreds, thousands, millions of pounds of
00:33:28.890 --> 00:33:33.970
just waste every year. So not only are we producing
00:33:33.970 --> 00:33:37.349
tons of clothes, we are also discarding them
00:33:37.349 --> 00:33:41.039
at an enormous amount. In 2019, while I was still
00:33:41.039 --> 00:33:44.559
in college, I started Stitch and Destroy, took
00:33:44.559 --> 00:33:49.480
a few entrepreneur classes in school, did a upstart
00:33:49.480 --> 00:33:52.779
venture competition where it was a entrepreneurship
00:33:52.779 --> 00:33:55.940
kind of competition school and won some funding.
00:33:56.359 --> 00:33:59.420
And then I moved to Philly in 2020 and really
00:33:59.420 --> 00:34:10.380
started my business. destroy. It's a little bit
00:34:10.380 --> 00:34:14.360
of a play on search and destroy. We're also a
00:34:14.360 --> 00:34:18.940
very much like a punk rock metal themed store,
00:34:19.420 --> 00:34:24.639
very alternative music style. But there's there's
00:34:24.639 --> 00:34:27.139
an Iggy Pop song called search and destroy that
00:34:27.139 --> 00:34:31.750
kind of inspired me. But yeah, I thought of stitching,
00:34:31.849 --> 00:34:34.170
you're stitching up clothes that might be either
00:34:34.170 --> 00:34:37.389
destroyed or you're destroying textile waste.
00:34:38.110 --> 00:34:40.750
I could take on a lot of things, but yeah, it's
00:34:40.750 --> 00:34:44.670
fun. And at the beginning, I was doing markets,
00:34:45.010 --> 00:34:48.429
vending at local pop -ups and fairs, upcycle
00:34:48.429 --> 00:34:53.769
clothing, so tops, pants. I do a lot of patch
00:34:53.769 --> 00:34:57.250
working, so I'll cut up old clothes. One thing
00:34:57.250 --> 00:35:00.329
I love to do is take clothes that couldn't be
00:35:00.329 --> 00:35:02.949
given to a thrift store or sold again because
00:35:02.949 --> 00:35:05.889
there's stains or holes or rips. I'm able to
00:35:05.889 --> 00:35:08.289
cut those up, patchwork them into a new cloth
00:35:08.289 --> 00:35:12.429
and then sew them into a garment. So for about
00:35:12.429 --> 00:35:15.170
five years I was doing those vending and market
00:35:15.170 --> 00:35:18.670
pop -ups and they got super popular during kind
00:35:18.670 --> 00:35:21.489
of the pandemic time when businesses had to close
00:35:21.489 --> 00:35:24.820
but you still could be selling outdoors. and
00:35:24.820 --> 00:35:27.980
then it felt like a good transition to open a
00:35:27.980 --> 00:35:31.679
store just so that we could not only move our
00:35:31.679 --> 00:35:34.800
studio out of our apartment and to a storefront
00:35:34.800 --> 00:35:38.559
and have more space, but we also really wanted
00:35:38.559 --> 00:35:41.239
to get more involved in our community and teach
00:35:41.239 --> 00:35:44.159
people about textile waste in circular fashion.
00:35:44.860 --> 00:35:47.579
So I was really just working out of my apartment
00:35:47.579 --> 00:35:52.159
and sewing and then last year in May of 2024
00:35:52.159 --> 00:35:56.940
we Me and my partner opened the storefront. Every
00:35:56.940 --> 00:36:00.360
single piece is one of a kind. We do use dead
00:36:00.360 --> 00:36:03.219
stock fabric. So that's fabric that's coming
00:36:03.219 --> 00:36:07.340
from the fashion industry that didn't get used
00:36:07.340 --> 00:36:09.920
up when producing clothes. So sometimes they'll
00:36:09.920 --> 00:36:13.400
be like... five yards left of a certain fabric
00:36:13.400 -->
00:36:16.219
or sometimes there will be even bolts, full bolts,
00:36:16.599 --> 00:36:19.599
like hundreds of yards left, which is crazy that
00:36:19.599 --> 00:36:21.920
that would end up in the landfill or get burned
00:36:21.920 --> 00:36:24.760
because it's still very usable. So there are
00:36:24.760 --> 00:36:28.099
a few pieces on Amble to make maybe like two
00:36:28.099 --> 00:36:30.800
of, but everything is pretty much one of a kind,
00:36:31.059 --> 00:36:34.539
except especially the patchwork items. Tell me
00:36:34.539 --> 00:36:38.280
about a typical garment. It's most likely new.
00:36:39.070 --> 00:36:44.130
It came from a factory that produced it and people
00:36:44.130 --> 00:36:45.989
produced it. There's definitely a misconception
00:36:45.989 --> 00:36:49.469
that our clothes are made by robots or machines.
00:36:49.610 --> 00:36:51.510
It is still definitely a person sitting behind
00:36:51.510 --> 00:36:54.769
that machine and often a garment goes through
00:36:54.769 --> 00:36:58.429
multiple people. There's like factory production
00:36:58.429 --> 00:37:01.349
so a lot of people are touching that garment.
00:37:03.500 --> 00:37:06.039
That garment is sewn together. That cloth was
00:37:06.039 --> 00:37:09.760
already made. So there was already cotton grown
00:37:09.760 --> 00:37:12.420
for the t -shirt. There was water used. There
00:37:12.420 --> 00:37:16.579
was dyes that were mixed and then made that color
00:37:16.579 --> 00:37:19.619
of the t -shirt. And then it was sewn together.
00:37:20.199 --> 00:37:23.000
It was shipped to you from overseas most likely.
00:37:23.500 --> 00:37:25.659
So there's that pollution involved too. It's
00:37:25.659 --> 00:37:27.960
just the shipping process and the packaging of
00:37:27.960 --> 00:37:31.960
it. And then you might wear that t -shirt. for
00:37:31.960 --> 00:37:36.880
a year or two, maybe more. I try to keep my garments
00:37:36.880 --> 00:37:41.519
as long as I can. Of course, I'm unique in that
00:37:41.519 --> 00:37:46.239
I know how to make them new, but say you keep
00:37:46.239 --> 00:37:49.739
that shirt for 10 years and maybe you get some
00:37:49.739 --> 00:37:53.079
stains and holes on it. You might want to donate
00:37:53.079 --> 00:37:55.420
it to a thrift store, but because it's ripped
00:37:55.420 --> 00:37:58.139
up, stained, you can't. So you're most likely
00:37:58.139 --> 00:38:01.010
going to throw it away. and then that t -shirt
00:38:01.010 --> 00:38:04.030
is going to end up in the landfill or a lot of
00:38:04.030 --> 00:38:08.369
our waste system is also incinerated so it might
00:38:08.369 --> 00:38:12.550
be burned either way. If you did throw give it
00:38:12.550 --> 00:38:15.130
to a thrift store and it was stained, had holes,
00:38:15.429 --> 00:38:17.230
it's probably not going to sell at that thrift
00:38:17.230 --> 00:38:20.130
store so they're going to ship it to the Global
00:38:20.130 --> 00:38:22.449
South where it's going to sit in their waterways
00:38:22.449 --> 00:38:25.150
or in a landfill or they're also just going to
00:38:25.150 --> 00:38:27.849
trash it. So it's going to end up in some kind
00:38:27.849 --> 00:38:32.389
of landfill. and then the cycle pretty much ends
00:38:32.389 --> 00:38:35.690
with that shirt's polluting whatever land or
00:38:35.690 --> 00:38:39.690
the um it's just sitting there and it no longer
00:38:39.690 --> 00:38:43.130
has a use um but with if that t -shirt came to
00:38:43.130 --> 00:38:46.630
us we would be able to cut it up patchwork it
00:38:46.630 --> 00:38:50.429
together make a new shirt we would um those areas
00:38:50.429 --> 00:38:52.809
with the holes or stains we might avoid those
00:38:52.809 --> 00:38:54.690
areas but we're still going to keep those scraps
00:38:55.179 --> 00:38:58.340
After we create our product that gets sold and
00:38:58.340 --> 00:39:02.900
worn by a new person so that t -shirt that was
00:39:02.900 --> 00:39:05.800
already worn for 10 years is now living hopefully
00:39:05.800 --> 00:39:09.900
for another 10 years if not more. I keep every
00:39:09.900 --> 00:39:13.380
scrap that I come across and We're trying to
00:39:13.380 --> 00:39:15.599
work with a fabric shredder right now to see
00:39:15.599 --> 00:39:18.659
if we could produce our own shoddy which is a
00:39:18.659 --> 00:39:21.900
fiber fill that you can use to stuff kind of
00:39:21.900 --> 00:39:25.920
like a stuffing for cushions, couches, but yeah
00:39:25.920 --> 00:39:28.940
we we save every scrap that we can and we don't
00:39:28.940 --> 00:39:30.940
want to see anything end up in the landfill.
00:39:34.010 --> 00:39:37.369
Before we moved into the store and studio, our
00:39:37.369 --> 00:39:41.389
apartment was just bins and bins of fabric just
00:39:41.389 --> 00:39:43.869
piled on top of each other. And people want to
00:39:43.869 --> 00:39:47.429
give you their old clothes. There is no shortage
00:39:47.429 --> 00:39:50.650
in the amount of material that we can get. We
00:39:50.650 --> 00:39:53.070
still are struggling a little bit with just keeping
00:39:53.070 --> 00:39:55.289
up the space in here, even though we have so
00:39:55.289 --> 00:40:00.510
much more room. We're still kind of overflowing
00:40:00.510 --> 00:40:03.469
in the amount of fabric. In the store we also
00:40:03.469 --> 00:40:06.849
carry about 25 other local artists and designers
00:40:06.849 --> 00:40:09.690
that upcycle in some way. We have about, I would
00:40:09.690 --> 00:40:14.170
say, 10 or so clothing designers who either screen
00:40:14.170 --> 00:40:17.750
print on old clothes, they might also do a similar
00:40:17.750 --> 00:40:19.929
thing where they're constructing full pieces.
00:40:20.990 --> 00:40:24.449
Some of our designers will also take an old clothing
00:40:24.449 --> 00:40:27.809
item and put a little patchwork design on it.
00:40:27.929 --> 00:40:30.369
So not necessarily creating a very brand new
00:40:30.369 --> 00:40:34.210
garment,
but still using textile waste. And then
00:40:34.210 --> 00:40:37.210
we also have a few artists in store. We sell
00:40:37.210 --> 00:40:40.329
collage packs from the Teal Appeal. They're local
00:40:40.329 --> 00:40:43.909
to Philadelphia. We sell also recycled plastic
00:40:43.909 --> 00:40:47.750
coasters. plant pots from Philly Plastico. We
00:40:47.750 --> 00:40:51.530
also have really fun charm jewelry earrings of
00:40:51.530 --> 00:40:54.750
like little happy meal toys that they created
00:40:54.750 --> 00:40:57.989
into earrings. We have earrings that are also
00:40:57.989 --> 00:41:02.050
made from bowling balls, vinyl records, and we
00:41:02.050 --> 00:41:05.630
also have a fun little DIY section where we carry
00:41:05.630 --> 00:41:11.099
craft kits. crafting books and also patches that
00:41:11.099 --> 00:41:14.679
you could either sew onto a jacket or mend an
00:41:14.679 --> 00:41:18.679
existing garment. We also carry a little assortment
00:41:18.679 --> 00:41:21.400
of vintage and secondhand clothing that we come
00:41:21.400 --> 00:41:24.199
across that we feel is too nice to cut up and
00:41:24.199 --> 00:41:26.699
make something new out of. so sometimes people
00:41:26.699 --> 00:41:30.079
will donate items that we come across um to put
00:41:30.079 --> 00:41:33.300
in our vintage section um we also love this one
00:41:33.300 --> 00:41:36.860
uh it's called bulk vintage warehouse in north
00:41:36.860 --> 00:41:42.289
philadelphia um and they sell just like They
00:41:42.289 --> 00:41:46.389
have bins and bins of just vintage and secondhand
00:41:46.389 --> 00:41:49.030
clothing. It's open to mostly like businesses,
00:41:49.289 --> 00:41:52.369
retailers, wholesalers to buy vintage clothes.
00:41:52.789 --> 00:41:55.150
And they also carry assortment of stuff that
00:41:55.150 --> 00:41:58.409
couldn't, that's not necessarily like vintage
00:41:58.409 --> 00:42:00.690
sellers would want because they do need some
00:42:00.690 --> 00:42:02.809
mending. So we also like to get a hold of those.
00:42:04.730 --> 00:42:07.690
So vintage is super popular to buy right now
00:42:07.690 --> 00:42:10.090
and a big part of it is because of the quality.
00:42:10.869 --> 00:42:13.909
So a lot of times our vintage or antique clothes
00:42:13.909 --> 00:42:18.150
were made either by hand by someone locally.
00:42:18.449 --> 00:42:21.510
It was also made with better quality material.
00:42:21.750 --> 00:42:24.570
Say like a sweater it might have in the past
00:42:24.570 --> 00:42:27.110
been made from wool or cotton and now it's being
00:42:27.110 --> 00:42:30.349
made from polyester synthetic fabrics that are
00:42:30.349 --> 00:42:33.489
going to degrade over time. They might be not
00:42:33.489 --> 00:42:36.090
very nice on your skin, they have that like plasticky
00:42:36.090 --> 00:42:39.750
feeling, and they're a lot harder to mend a lot
00:42:39.750 --> 00:42:43.150
of the times because they rip more easily, you'll
00:42:43.150 --> 00:42:46.170
get more holes where something like wool like
00:42:46.170 --> 00:42:49.690
it could be felted and reworked in a way. So
00:42:49.690 --> 00:42:53.800
I think the biggest contributor to why clothing
00:42:53.800 --> 00:42:56.880
is no longer made really well is because of just
00:42:56.880 --> 00:42:59.860
the fast fashion industry. Companies are trying
00:42:59.860 --> 00:43:02.119
to produce as much clothing as possible to keep
00:43:02.119 --> 00:43:05.219
up with trends and season changes and just trying
00:43:05.219 --> 00:43:09.500
to get people to wear new garments and buy more.
00:43:10.119 --> 00:43:12.900
So clothes are being produced in a more cheap
00:43:12.900 --> 00:43:17.250
manner. So a lot of people will think that, oh,
00:43:17.250 --> 00:43:18.889
you're returning clothes, it's going back on
00:43:18.889 --> 00:43:21.610
the shelves, someone else is buying it. But often
00:43:21.610 --> 00:43:25.590
businesses, stores can't process the amount of
00:43:25.590 --> 00:43:27.730
returns that they're receiving, especially if
00:43:27.730 --> 00:43:30.510
it's just hundreds of returns they're getting.
00:43:31.090 --> 00:43:33.570
So they eventually either will just throw that
00:43:33.570 --> 00:43:35.849
away, it'll go into the dumpsters, go to the
00:43:35.849 --> 00:43:39.050
landfill, could also be incinerated so that it
00:43:39.050 --> 00:43:42.269
gets burned. no longer wearable. There's also
00:43:42.269 --> 00:43:46.469
a lot of just dumping of textile waste in the
00:43:46.469 --> 00:43:48.590
global south. There's mountains and mountains
00:43:48.590 --> 00:43:51.489
of just clothing in other countries that are
00:43:51.489 --> 00:43:54.610
not ours. And it's causing a lot of pollution
00:43:54.610 --> 00:43:57.730
in their waterways and in their land. So returns
00:43:57.730 --> 00:44:00.469
are not necessarily a sustainable way to get
00:44:00.469 --> 00:44:03.889
rid of your clothes. It's much better to either
00:44:03.889 --> 00:44:06.849
try something on, make sure it fits, make sure
00:44:06.849 --> 00:44:09.880
you like it. And then if it's not... fitting
00:44:09.880 --> 00:44:12.039
right if you can't wear it maybe try to mend
00:44:12.039 --> 00:44:14.860
it get it altered dry cleaners are everywhere
00:44:14.860 --> 00:44:17.480
and a lot of them do alterations something that
00:44:17.480 --> 00:44:20.139
everyone knows about and also you can always
00:44:20.139 --> 00:44:23.840
upcycle it create something new or host a clothing
00:44:23.840 --> 00:44:27.079
swap or give it to a friend like people also
00:44:27.079 --> 00:44:29.019
probably would like the garment that you thought
00:44:29.019 --> 00:44:33.420
you might like but something we do at stitch
00:44:33.420 --> 00:44:36.760
and destroy is by every other month we host clothing
00:44:36.760 --> 00:44:41.260
swaps where the public can come bring their clothes
00:44:41.260 --> 00:44:44.280
that they don't want anymore, trade amongst each
00:44:44.280 --> 00:44:48.920
other, take just clothes that people are discarding,
00:44:48.940 --> 00:44:52.199
and usually we're left over with a decent amount
00:44:52.199 --> 00:44:54.739
at the end that we either save for the next clothing
00:44:54.739 --> 00:44:58.860
swap, we cut up and make into new clothes, or
00:44:58.860 --> 00:45:01.039
if it's something that's super cool we might
00:45:01.039 --> 00:45:08.500
add to that secondhand vintage rack. We host
00:45:08.500 --> 00:45:11.579
about one to two, sometimes three workshops per
00:45:11.579 --> 00:45:15.820
month. Typically they involve sewing, fiber arts,
00:45:16.320 --> 00:45:19.780
some kind of sustainability oriented art practice.
00:45:20.139 --> 00:45:22.719
Our most popular one is our intro to machine
00:45:22.719 --> 00:45:24.940
sewing class, where we teach people how to use
00:45:24.940 --> 00:45:27.000
a sewing machine, how to thread the machine,
00:45:27.179 --> 00:45:30.280
and then they practice stitching and they make
00:45:30.280 --> 00:45:37.260
a tote bag at the end. But we've also held paper
00:45:37.260 --> 00:45:41.039
making classes in the past using the paper waste
00:45:41.039 --> 00:45:44.280
that comes from pattern making when making garments.
00:45:44.739 --> 00:45:47.340
There's sometimes extra paper that comes off
00:45:47.340 --> 00:45:49.599
of that and you can make a paper pulp and then
00:45:49.599 --> 00:45:52.519
make new paper from that. So we've hosted paper
00:45:52.519 --> 00:45:55.559
making classes. We also have a collage class
00:45:55.559 --> 00:45:58.900
coming up with one of the artists we carry in
00:45:58.900 --> 00:46:01.739
store and she's going to teach about the history
00:46:01.739 --> 00:46:05.079
of collage making and how to create your own.
00:46:06.019 --> 00:46:07.940
But yeah, the classes are really fun and that
00:46:07.940 --> 00:46:10.559
was also something why we wanted to open the
00:46:10.559 --> 00:46:12.980
store and studio is so that people could have
00:46:12.980 --> 00:46:15.820
access to learn how to use a sewing machine.
00:46:15.900 --> 00:46:18.380
They could see me making the clothes in the store
00:46:18.380 --> 00:46:21.059
and really see the whole process of how clothing
00:46:21.059 --> 00:46:28.579
is made and it's not just by machines. When we
00:46:28.579 --> 00:46:30.840
start off our sewing classes, I'd love to get
00:46:30.840 --> 00:46:33.219
a sense of where everyone is at in their ability
00:46:33.219 --> 00:46:36.480
and one of the most common answers is either
00:46:36.480 --> 00:46:39.059
I learned this in homemade class way long ago
00:46:39.059 --> 00:46:41.079
when I was young and haven't touched a sewing
00:46:41.079 --> 00:46:43.719
machine or it's something like my grandma taught
00:46:43.719 --> 00:46:47.340
me because she was really into sewing but it
00:46:47.340 --> 00:46:49.420
was much easier for me to buy my own clothes
00:46:49.420 --> 00:46:53.969
and now I want to learn the skill. But yeah,
00:46:54.349 --> 00:46:56.750
the age range is pretty varied in our classes.
00:46:57.030 --> 00:47:00.489
We've had like people in their 20s to people
00:47:00.489 --> 00:47:03.349
in their 70s and already retired and want to
00:47:03.349 --> 00:47:05.769
pick up a new skill. It's really, it's a fun
00:47:05.769 --> 00:47:09.510
class to take and just get a sense of why everyone
00:47:09.510 --> 00:47:11.630
wants to learn how to sew, whether it's mending
00:47:11.630 --> 00:47:14.429
their clothes, a lot of people want to alter,
00:47:14.710 --> 00:47:17.809
or they've seen something on social media and
00:47:17.809 --> 00:47:20.170
they want to like learn how to make that garment.
00:47:20.429 --> 00:47:23.909
We also host sewing workshops that require a
00:47:23.909 --> 00:47:26.889
little more intermediate skill level, so if they've
00:47:26.889 --> 00:47:29.269
taken our intro to machine sewing class they
00:47:29.269 --> 00:47:31.909
can take other sewing classes that we offer.
00:47:32.190 --> 00:47:34.090
We just want to make sure that they know how
00:47:34.090 --> 00:47:37.170
to thread the machine and operate it because
00:47:37.170 --> 00:47:39.269
that definitely is something to get used to.
00:47:39.530 --> 00:47:41.949
So yeah, we have had people take our tote bag
00:47:41.949 --> 00:47:44.429
making class and then come back for our denim
00:47:44.429 --> 00:47:47.590
bucket hat making workshop, so it's really fun
00:47:47.590 --> 00:47:51.340
to see those. students grow in their skills and
00:47:51.340 --> 00:47:54.559
become more interested in sewing. Or that we
00:47:54.559 --> 00:47:57.239
have people come back for our clothing swap because
00:47:57.239 --> 00:47:59.320
they learned how to sew and they want to make
00:47:59.320 --> 00:48:08.539
their own garments and alter them. To create
00:48:08.539 --> 00:48:12.820
sustainable fashion without using like secondhand
00:48:12.820 --> 00:48:16.820
materials, you definitely probably would go with
00:48:16.820 --> 00:48:20.579
a natural fiber. um hemp has always been one
00:48:20.579 --> 00:48:23.619
of those fibers that people speak highly about
00:48:23.619 --> 00:48:27.900
because it's less water intensive um it can grow
00:48:27.900 --> 00:48:31.599
in like drier climates flax which makes linen
00:48:31.599 --> 00:48:35.320
that one's also um uses less water too harvest
00:48:35.320 --> 00:48:38.900
and create the fiber. Cotton of course is like
00:48:38.900 --> 00:48:41.320
something that people gravitate towards but that
00:48:41.320 --> 00:48:44.800
one uses a ton of water and also uses a ton of
00:48:44.800 --> 00:48:48.440
pesticides. So yeah not only is it like tons
00:48:48.440 --> 00:48:50.420
of water is being used but also tons of chemicals
00:48:50.420 --> 00:48:53.760
are being put on these plants and it's a monoculture
00:48:53.760 --> 00:48:57.000
plant too so where you having just fields vast
00:48:57.000 --> 00:49:00.800
fields of land is
being used to just one type
00:49:00.800 --> 00:49:04.579
of crop. So these tiny farms like flax farms,
00:49:04.900 --> 00:49:07.639
hemp farms, so supporting your local farmers
00:49:07.639 --> 00:49:10.320
of course is a sustainable way so they would
00:49:10.320 --> 00:49:14.239
make those fibers to then be processed and created
00:49:14.239 --> 00:49:18.260
into kind of yarn that you would weave or knit
00:49:18.260 --> 00:49:21.219
with to create the cloth itself. I mean basically
00:49:21.219 --> 00:49:24.219
to create a sustainable fashion you need to become
00:49:24.219 --> 00:49:28.360
as local as possible using natural fibers using
00:49:28.360 --> 00:49:31.840
natural dyes is a great way to instead of using
00:49:31.840 --> 00:49:34.000
synthetic dyes but of course natural dyes are
00:49:34.000 --> 00:49:37.280
still uh toxic in some ways there's sometimes
00:49:37.280 --> 00:49:40.139
heavy metals used to create the dye color there's
00:49:40.139 --> 00:49:42.679
still a ton of water being used so you might
00:49:42.679 --> 00:49:45.789
see like sustainable fashion being like a lot
00:49:45.789 --> 00:49:49.309
of beige like cream colors it's the color of
00:49:49.309 --> 00:49:52.750
basically the natural plant and then yeah you
00:49:52.750 --> 00:49:55.650
would use local manufacturing to create the garment
00:49:55.650 --> 00:49:58.409
for yourself but and you might have that garment
00:49:58.409 --> 00:50:00.949
even tailored to your size so it fits you well
00:50:00.949 --> 00:50:04.269
and will last you but also to say this is really
00:50:04.269 --> 00:50:09.449
expensive to do if you're going to to buy garments
00:50:09.449 --> 00:50:14.409
that are made truly locally and in a sustainable,
00:50:14.750 --> 00:50:18.349
in a way that pays people as well, it's going
00:50:18.349 --> 00:50:20.750
to be really expensive because it's a lot to
00:50:20.750 --> 00:50:23.050
make a garment a lot goes into it and that's
00:50:23.050 --> 00:50:25.389
personally why I gravitate towards upcycling
00:50:25.389 --> 00:50:27.849
and just using what we already have and what's
00:50:27.849 --> 00:50:31.429
already been produced and there's so much fabric
00:50:31.550 --> 00:50:34.510
already made that i i really believe we don't
00:50:34.510 --> 00:50:37.550
need to make the amount that we're we're creating
00:50:37.550 --> 00:50:39.469
anymore we need to start using what we already
00:50:39.469 --> 00:50:43.230
have so the honestly the one of the most cheapest
00:50:43.230 --> 00:50:45.710
ways you can make a new garment is just using
00:50:45.710 --> 00:50:49.250
old clothes and it's it's probably it's one of
00:50:49.250 --> 00:50:51.489
the best most sustainable ways because you're
00:50:51.489 --> 00:50:53.530
not you're using what's already been made you're
00:50:53.530 --> 00:50:56.070
not creating any new resources and you're not
00:50:56.070 --> 00:51:00.050
discarding any resources We come across a lot
00:51:00.050 --> 00:51:03.969
of t -shirts that are for that 5k you wore yeah,
00:51:04.030 --> 00:51:06.829
like Different like high school events. I'm sure
00:51:06.829 --> 00:51:09.869
like while we were all in school. We got 20 t
00:51:09.869 --> 00:51:12.449
-shirts for whatever field day we were participating
00:51:12.449 --> 00:51:17.230
in or some kind of fun run And those t -shirts,
00:51:17.230 --> 00:51:19.010
you know, you might wear for a year. You might
00:51:19.010 --> 00:51:21.010
wear those to bed They're not like something
00:51:21.010 --> 00:51:24.070
you want to wear out all the time and we come
00:51:24.070 --> 00:51:27.159
across a lot of those and We find those shirts,
00:51:27.179 --> 00:51:29.539
they're not super fun to make into a new garment.
00:51:29.659 --> 00:51:33.019
That graphic isn't well liked. But one thing
00:51:33.019 --> 00:51:36.019
we do is we make it into a t -shirt shopping
00:51:36.019 --> 00:51:38.920
bag. So if a customer forgets to bring their
00:51:38.920 --> 00:51:42.119
bag when they're making a purchase, we have these
00:51:42.119 --> 00:51:46.380
t -shirts sewn together into a new bag that they
00:51:46.380 --> 00:51:55.500
can use to carry out their purchase. Stitch and
00:51:55.500 --> 00:51:58.780
Destroy is located on 4th Street. So just down
00:51:58.780 --> 00:52:01.280
the block, when you go past South Street, there's
00:52:01.280 --> 00:52:04.480
Historic Fabric Row. And Fabric Row has really
00:52:04.480 --> 00:52:08.340
transformed over the years. Used to have a ton
00:52:08.340 --> 00:52:11.000
of fabric stores. You could go buy your fabric,
00:52:11.219 --> 00:52:14.019
your sewing supplies. Now there's only a few,
00:52:14.300 --> 00:52:16.960
but... A really cool thing is that there's a
00:52:16.960 --> 00:52:19.500
ton of vintage and secondhand stores that have
00:52:19.500 --> 00:52:22.719
popped up on the street. So it's still keeping
00:52:22.719 --> 00:52:27.659
with that fashion sustainability world. I would
00:52:27.659 --> 00:52:30.500
say South Street and 4th Street are like a huge
00:52:30.500 --> 00:52:34.139
hub for just secondhand and vintage in general
00:52:34.139 --> 00:52:37.550
in our city. One place we love to source our
00:52:37.550 --> 00:52:39.809
sewing supplies is at the resource exchange,
00:52:40.090 --> 00:52:43.829
which is located in Kensington area. But the
00:52:43.829 --> 00:52:46.309
resource exchange is a wonderful resource for
00:52:46.309 --> 00:52:49.449
secondhand art and craft supplies. They have
00:52:49.449 --> 00:52:52.989
sewing supplies, paints, fabric, yarn. So even
00:52:52.989 --> 00:52:56.530
our threads, buttons, zippers, we source secondhand.
00:52:56.949 --> 00:53:00.630
We've also sourced material from Rabbit Recycling.
00:53:00.760 --> 00:53:04.000
They used to be located up in East Kensington
00:53:04.000 --> 00:53:06.219
area. They just recently moved to West Ville
00:53:06.219 --> 00:53:10.980
and it's a great resource to also get materials
00:53:10.980 --> 00:53:14.079
because they offer everything for free. If you
00:53:14.079 --> 00:53:15.800
don't know what Rabbit Recycling is, they're
00:53:15.800 --> 00:53:21.159
a private recycling... service, so they will
00:53:21.159 --> 00:53:24.719
give you a bin or bucket to fill up with basically
00:53:24.719 --> 00:53:26.699
anything that you're looking to get rid of. They
00:53:26.699 --> 00:53:30.559
have a huge accepted materials list and then
00:53:30.559 --> 00:53:32.940
it all gets sorted by hand by their employees
00:53:32.940 --> 00:53:36.480
and a lot of the stuff that they get is still
00:53:36.480 --> 00:53:40.400
great and usable and it's a perfect source of
00:53:40.400 --> 00:53:43.199
material for artists and just like people that
00:53:43.199 --> 00:53:45.460
are looking to get stuff secondhand for free.
00:53:47.140 --> 00:53:50.960
I've been interested in the sustainable world
00:53:50.960 --> 00:53:53.039
of Philadelphia. There's so many small businesses
00:53:53.039 --> 00:53:56.079
in Philly that are dedicated to sustainability
00:53:56.079 --> 00:53:59.719
and circularity and circular Philadelphia kind
00:53:59.719 --> 00:54:03.420
of came up in my research. But they were also
00:54:03.420 --> 00:54:06.059
looking for people to give insight into a new
00:54:06.059 --> 00:54:09.389
tool they just came out with. resource -vility
00:54:09.389 --> 00:54:13.070
and it's a search engine that allows you to look
00:54:13.070 --> 00:54:15.570
up where to discard things you no longer want
00:54:15.570 --> 00:54:19.429
or to even find things secondhand. So they were
00:54:19.429 --> 00:54:22.849
putting out surveys and taking that survey you
00:54:22.849 --> 00:54:25.190
could become a member. So I thought that was
00:54:25.190 --> 00:54:27.429
like a great way to kind of branch into that
00:54:27.429 --> 00:54:31.070
group and I really have enjoyed my time going
00:54:31.070 --> 00:54:33.789
to the meetings and different events they've
00:54:33.789 --> 00:54:37.909
hosted. They really fund member meetings and
00:54:37.909 --> 00:54:40.789
they also have smaller working groups within
00:54:40.789 --> 00:54:43.309
their membership. So I'm part of the textile
00:54:43.309 --> 00:54:46.070
working group. There's a lot of professors in
00:54:46.070 --> 00:54:49.570
that group that teach fashion, just local citizens
00:54:49.570 --> 00:54:52.690
that are interested in textile production and
00:54:52.690 --> 00:54:55.889
how Philly can do better. So it's a neat group.
00:54:55.989 --> 00:54:58.110
We're still working out what we want to focus
00:54:58.110 --> 00:55:01.059
on for this year. Going to the membership meetings,
00:55:01.059 --> 00:55:03.599
you meet a lot of people that not necessarily
00:55:03.599 --> 00:55:06.300
are in your industry, but they are interested
00:55:06.300 --> 00:55:09.440
in how to make our world better, how to make
00:55:09.440 --> 00:55:15.659
the economy better, and using used materials
00:55:15.659 -->
00:55:19.940
is such a shared experience. So whether you're
00:55:19.940 --> 00:55:24.599
composting or recycling, trying to find new uses
00:55:24.599 --> 00:55:28.019
for vacant lots or old buildings, it all relates
00:55:28.019 --> 00:55:41.829
to each other. I think people are really starting
00:55:41.829 --> 00:55:45.150
to become more aware of the impact the fashion
00:55:45.150 --> 00:55:48.090
industry has on our environment and also just
00:55:48.090 --> 00:55:50.949
people's working conditions in the textile industry
00:55:50.949 --> 00:55:53.809
are so terrible often that they want to support
00:55:53.809 --> 00:55:57.269
healthier practices. So people are really interested
00:55:57.269 --> 00:56:00.230
in learning how to sew their clothes to kind
00:56:00.230 --> 00:56:03.449
of stop that cycle from happening. when you make
00:56:03.449 --> 00:56:06.170
your own clothes you're not contributing to that
00:56:06.170 --> 00:56:08.989
fast fashion cycle that's happening or even if
00:56:08.989 --> 00:56:12.289
you buy a fast fashion garment but you can keep
00:56:12.289 --> 00:56:16.170
it for 10 plus years that's amazing like not
00:56:16.170 --> 00:56:19.170
discarding it after a couple of wears but being
00:56:19.170 --> 00:56:21.929
able to know how to mend it to sew it to add
00:56:21.929 --> 00:56:24.929
to it is just something i think people are starting
00:56:24.929 --> 00:56:28.690
to become more interested in and i think we're
00:56:28.690 --> 00:56:31.820
like ourselves, we see our closets, we see how
00:56:31.820 --> 00:56:36.579
much clothing we have, and I think there's this
00:56:36.579 --> 00:56:39.960
interest of both like minimalism, trying to live
00:56:39.960 --> 00:56:43.239
a more sustainable life in that way too that
00:56:43.239 --> 00:56:46.539
people are wanting to like preserve their clothes.
00:56:47.420 --> 00:56:50.380
But yeah, I think social media is playing a huge
00:56:50.380 --> 00:56:53.159
role in how people are learning about the fast
00:56:53.159 --> 00:56:56.800
fashion industry and not wanting to contribute
00:56:56.800 --> 00:56:59.860
to it because it is like something that's just
00:56:59.860 --> 00:57:03.719
so wrapped up in every part of our lives from
00:57:03.719 --> 00:57:06.199
the manufacturing of the clothes to the industries
00:57:06.199 --> 00:57:10.920
that are within the actual fast fashion industry.
00:57:11.000 --> 00:57:14.579
And then just like what to do after your your
00:57:14.579 --> 00:57:16.940
clothes are worn out. I think that's also why
00:57:16.940 --> 00:57:19.719
people are caring about clothes is because it
00:57:19.719 --> 00:57:22.280
is such a part of ourselves. It's how we present
00:57:22.280 --> 00:57:26.059
ourselves to the world. It's our basically our
00:57:26.059 --> 00:57:30.659
second skin and to know how to alter mend and
00:57:30.659 --> 00:57:33.860
make it your own is really important and empowering
00:57:33.860 --> 00:57:46.480
skill to have. That was Haven DeAngelis of Stitch
00:57:46.480 --> 00:57:49.260
and Destroy on Fabric Row. Thanks to Haven and
00:57:49.260 --> 00:57:51.420
Holly for diving deeper into how clothing and
00:57:51.420 --> 00:57:53.579
textiles can be reused through thrifting and
00:57:53.579 --> 00:57:56.300
consignment. For more information on Stitch and
00:57:56.300 --> 00:57:59.119
Destroy, visit StitchandDestroy .com. And for
00:57:59.119 --> 00:58:01.119
more information on Another Chance, visit them
00:58:01.119 --> 00:58:04.360
on Instagram at Another Chance underscore Fishtown.
00:58:05.219 --> 00:58:07.719
Join us for episode seven, where we'll wander
00:58:07.719 --> 00:58:10.860
into the wonderfully weird world of salvage.
00:58:12.199 --> 00:58:15.159
The Circle Up podcast is presented by Circular
00:58:15.159 --> 00:58:18.119
Philadelphia. It was produced by Meredith Nutting
00:58:18.119 --> 00:58:21.500
at Cool Goon Productions. This podcast was supported
00:58:21.500 --> 00:58:23.800
by a grant from Penn Treaty Special Services
00:58:23.800 --> 00:58:26.559
District. If you want to learn more about the
00:58:26.559 --> 00:58:28.659
circular economy, go to circularphiladelphia
00:58:28.659 --> 00:58:29.460
.org.